Erik W

I'm pretty much done sanding the interior.  Though with these enlarged photos, I see areas that need more work and cleanup. 
 
I had to include the dime in the last photo because the sanded outer hull is so smooth and monochromatic that the camera's auto focus won't focus on the right place!
 

 

 

 
Erik

I'm pretty much done sanding the interior.  Though with these enlarged photos, I see areas that need more work and cleanup. 
 
I had to include the dime in the last photo because the sanded outer hull is so smooth and monochromatic that the camera's auto focus won't focus on the right place!
 

 

 

 
Erik

I'm pretty much done sanding the interior.  Though with these enlarged photos, I see areas that need more work and cleanup. 
 
I had to include the dime in the last photo because the sanded outer hull is so smooth and monochromatic that the camera's auto focus won't focus on the right place!
 

 

 

 
Erik

I'm pretty much done sanding the interior.  Though with these enlarged photos, I see areas that need more work and cleanup. 
 
I had to include the dime in the last photo because the sanded outer hull is so smooth and monochromatic that the camera's auto focus won't focus on the right place!
 

 

 

 
Erik

I'm pretty much done sanding the interior.  Though with these enlarged photos, I see areas that need more work and cleanup. 
 
I had to include the dime in the last photo because the sanded outer hull is so smooth and monochromatic that the camera's auto focus won't focus on the right place!
 

 

 

 
Erik

The hull is now sanded.  I had to do this with great care since the planks on this latest batch of kits are .020" thick rather than 1/32" (.031").  There's not much margin for error.  I still have some touch up and cleanup to do, which I'll do after I remove the bulkheads.
 
Now about the planks . . .
 
Mine is the first build log of the Longboat using the .020" thick planks.
 
I was waiting to see what my results were before I addressed this.  For those reading this before they embark on a build of these latest kits with these thinner planks, DO NOT USE THE .020" THICK KIT SUPPLIED PLANKS.  I have used them more or less successfully, but the kit was not designed for these, and Model Shipways did not modify the instructions to accommodate for the thinner planks.  Replacement 1/32" x 1/8" basswood planks, as Chuck designed the model to use, can be purchased on various sites on the web for around $5.  Well worth the cost to safeguard against potential headaches down the road.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

A couple of quick shots.  The planking is finished.  I have yet to start any sanding, so pardon the rough look! 
 

 

 
Erik

Stern Lights Fitted
 
Not far from the finish line now . I've fitted the three open Stern Lights that I made a few years ago :
 

 

 

 
The only things left to do now are the Capstan Bars, and all the coils for the belaying.
 
 Danny

Thwarts are coming into place, none of them are glued.
The thwart at frame A is a tricky one, but I got it in place without breaking the thin side that goes around the frame.

The hull is now sanded.  I had to do this with great care since the planks on this latest batch of kits are .020" thick rather than 1/32" (.031").  There's not much margin for error.  I still have some touch up and cleanup to do, which I'll do after I remove the bulkheads.
 
Now about the planks . . .
 
Mine is the first build log of the Longboat using the .020" thick planks.
 
I was waiting to see what my results were before I addressed this.  For those reading this before they embark on a build of these latest kits with these thinner planks, DO NOT USE THE .020" THICK KIT SUPPLIED PLANKS.  I have used them more or less successfully, but the kit was not designed for these, and Model Shipways did not modify the instructions to accommodate for the thinner planks.  Replacement 1/32" x 1/8" basswood planks, as Chuck designed the model to use, can be purchased on various sites on the web for around $5.  Well worth the cost to safeguard against potential headaches down the road.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

I'm on the home stretch with the planking.  This being my first planking experience, I'm fairly pleased with my results.  Most of the imperfections seen in the photos should be taken care of with the final sanding of the hull.  I'm learning a lot in the process.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

Question.  I drilled the two holes in the bottom of the keel to mount the longboat to brass rods on the base when complete.  I used a #68 (.031") drill bit.  I drilled the hole to the depth of the keel. I was wondering, should I drill it further into the false keel?  It seems like a deeper hole would hold the boat better and be less flimsy.
 
Also, I cut out the bulkheads,  This went pretty quickly using a #11 fine tooth saw blade in a small Xacto handle.  I was very careful . . . and I don't think I breathed the whole time!!  My nerves are a bit frayed, but the boat is undamaged.  All I can say is, damn this thing is light!  
 

 

 
Erik
 

The hull is now sanded.  I had to do this with great care since the planks on this latest batch of kits are .020" thick rather than 1/32" (.031").  There's not much margin for error.  I still have some touch up and cleanup to do, which I'll do after I remove the bulkheads.
 
Now about the planks . . .
 
Mine is the first build log of the Longboat using the .020" thick planks.
 
I was waiting to see what my results were before I addressed this.  For those reading this before they embark on a build of these latest kits with these thinner planks, DO NOT USE THE .020" THICK KIT SUPPLIED PLANKS.  I have used them more or less successfully, but the kit was not designed for these, and Model Shipways did not modify the instructions to accommodate for the thinner planks.  Replacement 1/32" x 1/8" basswood planks, as Chuck designed the model to use, can be purchased on various sites on the web for around $5.  Well worth the cost to safeguard against potential headaches down the road.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

A couple of quick shots.  The planking is finished.  I have yet to start any sanding, so pardon the rough look! 
 

 

 
Erik

Question.  I drilled the two holes in the bottom of the keel to mount the longboat to brass rods on the base when complete.  I used a #68 (.031") drill bit.  I drilled the hole to the depth of the keel. I was wondering, should I drill it further into the false keel?  It seems like a deeper hole would hold the boat better and be less flimsy.
 
Also, I cut out the bulkheads,  This went pretty quickly using a #11 fine tooth saw blade in a small Xacto handle.  I was very careful . . . and I don't think I breathed the whole time!!  My nerves are a bit frayed, but the boat is undamaged.  All I can say is, damn this thing is light!  
 

 

 
Erik
 

Nice .
 
 
That would be deep enough, even though they will be hidden by the Footwaling later on. However, I'd make them 0.050" (1.2mm) diameter if you have enough thickness in the keel.
 
 Danny

Question.  I drilled the two holes in the bottom of the keel to mount the longboat to brass rods on the base when complete.  I used a #68 (.031") drill bit.  I drilled the hole to the depth of the keel. I was wondering, should I drill it further into the false keel?  It seems like a deeper hole would hold the boat better and be less flimsy.
 
Also, I cut out the bulkheads,  This went pretty quickly using a #11 fine tooth saw blade in a small Xacto handle.  I was very careful . . . and I don't think I breathed the whole time!!  My nerves are a bit frayed, but the boat is undamaged.  All I can say is, damn this thing is light!  
 

 

 
Erik
 

Question.  I drilled the two holes in the bottom of the keel to mount the longboat to brass rods on the base when complete.  I used a #68 (.031") drill bit.  I drilled the hole to the depth of the keel. I was wondering, should I drill it further into the false keel?  It seems like a deeper hole would hold the boat better and be less flimsy.
 
Also, I cut out the bulkheads,  This went pretty quickly using a #11 fine tooth saw blade in a small Xacto handle.  I was very careful . . . and I don't think I breathed the whole time!!  My nerves are a bit frayed, but the boat is undamaged.  All I can say is, damn this thing is light!  
 

 

 
Erik
 

Thank You very much,
 
Today I decided to build the skylight.  There are many shapes and sizes shown on cutters.  This matches the original draft but I imaging any similar would do.  I decided to make this a mini-kit.  All of the parts are laser cut from boxwood, laserboard and acetate.
 

 
First I doubled up two parts to form the "lip" I will need to build this thing.  There are some funky angles on the skylight  because after its built the fore and aft sides must be vertical.  So it was a challenge to say the least.  This was done for the sides and the window frames.
 

 
Then the window frames of the roof were beveled on the top and bottom edges.  This was very important so they would fit together tightly in the next step.  I used an emery board.
 

 
Rather than complete the frame and then add these on top,  I decided to build the roof first.  I tried a first prototype the other way and it was hard to get all of the angles correct and doing it in this order solved the issues.  The two halves of the roof were glued to one of the sides as shown.  It helped to keep the whole thing squared up and interestingly this made it easier to build..  
 

 
Then the other side was added and finally the two port and starboard side pieces beneath the window frames.  This finished the initial framing.  I know I am going to paint this red so I filled even the smallest cracks and sanded it afterwards.
 

 
Finally a coaming was added around the skylight frame.  This coaming was not as thick or as high as the coaming for the main hatch.  Because it was going to be painted I didnt bother with lap joints.  Note how the skylight doesnt sit flush on the ground.  It is lifted off the coaming by half of the width of the timbers.  This helps keep the decorative etched molding nice and neat with equal distance all around it.  The fore and aft sides were done first.  Then port and starboard.  The corners were rounded with the right angle jig like the coamings for the main hatch to finish it up. Then it was painted red.
 

 
Finally the laser cut acetate windows were dropped in position along with the skylight window frames.  The later was cut from very thin laserboard and painted to look like boxwood.  None if these items are glued to the deck yet.  I am waiting to finish up the companionway next and then I should be ready to start planking the deck around these elements.
 

 

fantastic Job Erik,
 
hard to believe that this is your first wooden model, Very well done !
 
Nils

nice quality photos as well....

Your frames came out great Erik.
David B

Question.  I drilled the two holes in the bottom of the keel to mount the longboat to brass rods on the base when complete.  I used a #68 (.031") drill bit.  I drilled the hole to the depth of the keel. I was wondering, should I drill it further into the false keel?  It seems like a deeper hole would hold the boat better and be less flimsy.
 
Also, I cut out the bulkheads,  This went pretty quickly using a #11 fine tooth saw blade in a small Xacto handle.  I was very careful . . . and I don't think I breathed the whole time!!  My nerves are a bit frayed, but the boat is undamaged.  All I can say is, damn this thing is light!  
 

 

 
Erik
 

Question.  I drilled the two holes in the bottom of the keel to mount the longboat to brass rods on the base when complete.  I used a #68 (.031") drill bit.  I drilled the hole to the depth of the keel. I was wondering, should I drill it further into the false keel?  It seems like a deeper hole would hold the boat better and be less flimsy.
 
Also, I cut out the bulkheads,  This went pretty quickly using a #11 fine tooth saw blade in a small Xacto handle.  I was very careful . . . and I don't think I breathed the whole time!!  My nerves are a bit frayed, but the boat is undamaged.  All I can say is, damn this thing is light!  
 

 

 
Erik
 

A couple of quick shots.  The planking is finished.  I have yet to start any sanding, so pardon the rough look! 
 

 

 
Erik