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Erik W

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  1. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from MikeB4 in 18th Century Longboat by MikeB4 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/4"=1'   
    Mike,  This looks great.  I'm a few steps behind you on my longboat build.  I hope mine turns out as nice!
     
    Erik
  2. Like
    Erik W reacted to MikeB4 in 18th Century Longboat by MikeB4 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/4"=1'   
    My boat isn't perfect by any means, but I do feel good about a lot of things I've learned with this build. I'll probably give it another coat of red paint, it's slowly coming along.

  3. Like
    Erik W reacted to Canute in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Erik, lay a thin strip of wood from the bow to the stern at several points. The strip should lay flat if properly faired.
  4. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from Dimitris71 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Thanks Matrim.  That's good advice.
     
    All the bulkheads are now attached.  They are as straight and true as I could get them.  The first 6 or 7 required more sanding to get them to fit than the back 9 or 10.  I'm going to glue some wood across the tops of the bulkheads for additional bracing, and then move onto sanding the bulkhead's edges to shape.  I'm having fun!
     

     

     

     
    Erik
  5. Like
    Erik W reacted to Nirvana in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Erik,
     
    Very nice! Now, before sanding the frames, attach secure them on top so they won't break or get move while doing it.
    See several build logs for ideas.
  6. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from GuntherMT in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Thanks Matrim.  That's good advice.
     
    All the bulkheads are now attached.  They are as straight and true as I could get them.  The first 6 or 7 required more sanding to get them to fit than the back 9 or 10.  I'm going to glue some wood across the tops of the bulkheads for additional bracing, and then move onto sanding the bulkhead's edges to shape.  I'm having fun!
     

     

     

     
    Erik
  7. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from Ryland Craze in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Thanks Matrim.  That's good advice.
     
    All the bulkheads are now attached.  They are as straight and true as I could get them.  The first 6 or 7 required more sanding to get them to fit than the back 9 or 10.  I'm going to glue some wood across the tops of the bulkheads for additional bracing, and then move onto sanding the bulkhead's edges to shape.  I'm having fun!
     

     

     

     
    Erik
  8. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from Jack12477 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Thanks Matrim.  That's good advice.
     
    All the bulkheads are now attached.  They are as straight and true as I could get them.  The first 6 or 7 required more sanding to get them to fit than the back 9 or 10.  I'm going to glue some wood across the tops of the bulkheads for additional bracing, and then move onto sanding the bulkhead's edges to shape.  I'm having fun!
     

     

     

     
    Erik
  9. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from Chuck in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Thanks Matrim.  That's good advice.
     
    All the bulkheads are now attached.  They are as straight and true as I could get them.  The first 6 or 7 required more sanding to get them to fit than the back 9 or 10.  I'm going to glue some wood across the tops of the bulkheads for additional bracing, and then move onto sanding the bulkhead's edges to shape.  I'm having fun!
     

     

     

     
    Erik
  10. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from Canute in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Thanks Matrim.  That's good advice.
     
    All the bulkheads are now attached.  They are as straight and true as I could get them.  The first 6 or 7 required more sanding to get them to fit than the back 9 or 10.  I'm going to glue some wood across the tops of the bulkheads for additional bracing, and then move onto sanding the bulkhead's edges to shape.  I'm having fun!
     

     

     

     
    Erik
  11. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from egkb in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Thanks Matrim.  That's good advice.
     
    All the bulkheads are now attached.  They are as straight and true as I could get them.  The first 6 or 7 required more sanding to get them to fit than the back 9 or 10.  I'm going to glue some wood across the tops of the bulkheads for additional bracing, and then move onto sanding the bulkhead's edges to shape.  I'm having fun!
     

     

     

     
    Erik
  12. Like
    Erik W reacted to Matrim in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    The best tip for the planking is to glue one to two bulkheads at a time (past the first which can be clamped) as opposed to trying to do an entire plank in one go. I did the second then pulled the planks off and finished with the first and it went much better..
  13. Like
    Erik W reacted to tlevine in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Erik, as you peruse other build logs you will find that most of us are PVA-people or CA-people.  Several years ago I almost exclusively used medium viscosity CA.  I could move along more rapidly and the only clamps required were my fingers.  But if you make a mistake, acetone is required for debonding.  It also is brittle (if you use it on rigging).  PVA does not get absorbed into the wood the way CA does so if you apply a clear finish there is less chance of glue stains on this very thin and porous basswood planking.  If you let the two mating surfaces become tacky, it takes much less time for the bond to strengthen.  In case of mistakes it debonds with isopropyl alcohol, which is much safer to work with.  When I build the longboat, the only times I used CA was when I was gluing the planking into the stem rabbet.
  14. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from egkb in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Eamonn, Bob,
     
    Thanks for the tips.  I figure planning on keeping the hull natural wood will cause me to be more careful while building the hull.  Unpainted surfaces are not particularly forgiving!
     
    I've got half the bulkheads installed.  I'll post photos once I get them all attached.
     
    Erik
  15. Like
    Erik W reacted to Ray in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate   
    Ships boats 2
    The next boat to be built was the 24ft cutter, which was built the same as the 18ft one again it was a mini build and again towards the end I have started the next boat. I am also very pleased how the boat has turned out and looks nice with the blue painted band, and quite workman like with added oars,anchors,ropes,boat hooks,and barrels.
    Frames and  keel clamped

    1st plank

    1st planking and filler 

    2nd planking


    planking done and false keel added

    inside hull prepared

    deck & grating

    inside painted

    inside fitted out

    wash strake & rowlocks

    painting

    tiller

    Completed cutter





    Both 18ft and 24ft cutters


     
     
     
     
     
     
  16. Like
    Erik W reacted to KenW in Rattlesnake by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - American Privateer   
    I finished the planking above the wales on both sides up to the top if the gun ports.  I have yet to add the moulding since I have yet to cut a razor blade that scraped a suitable moulding shape.  I’m still working on that. 
    Also, I realized after re-reading Jon’s (JSGERSON) build log that I forgot to add the sheaves on the sides.  So I ending up removing planks, created the sheaves and carved out a place for them on new planks.  Once everything was put back together, the result looks pretty good.  
    So the sides are done; and once I get the moulding to look right, I can start planking the lower hull.  I need to drill the treenails, of course, but I have to wait for my drill bit order to arrive. 
    The photo looking from the stern shows there are problems that I hope will be covered by the fashion pieces.
     



     
  17. Like
    Erik W reacted to Bob the Builder in Sultana by Bob the Builder - Model Shipways - First Wooden Ship Build   
    Made progress on the schooner this weekend - I planked and decked her with inspiration from Chuck Seiler and Chuck Passaro.
    I practiced my trunnel making on the side planks, and will do the same for the deck now that the stain has dried enough to fiddle with.
    I used Minwax Golden Oak for the color.

  18. Like
    Erik W reacted to Bob the Builder in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Erik - I'm new to wood ship modeling too, but have many years from the plastic side, and found that the CA glues that I already had work here as well: Super Thin for creeping into areas that need strengthening...and a medium gel for surface-to-surface contact.  Aside form CA, I also use Titebond and Elmer's Wood Glue for areas where I may have to tweak the positioning (like deck planking). I found something useful at Lowe's - GLUE DOTS. I was looking for a simple glue stick, and found these instead. If you need to temporarily place a piece, the dots will work...and when you're done, just roll the dot off with your finger and throw it away. I've used the dots to place copies of my plan sheet onto the decks for sizing and placement of details. Easy and clean to use, just roll the applicator across your surface and the dots will be placed for you!
     
    I see you want to leave your longboat hull natural wood - just keep the CA glue off of your surfaces, since those glues will not accept the stain color you may want to add later...otherwise you may have to do more sanding, and you could end up sanding your planks too thin. Ask me how I know
  19. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from Dimitris71 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    My 18th Century Longboat kit came from Model Shipways yesterday.  I double checked to make sure everything that should be in the box was, and snapped a couple of photos.  Though I consider myself a fairly accomplished modeler with other materials, this is my first wooden boat model.  I'm excited to jump in!
     
    Being new at this, I welcome any input and advice you seasoned veterans have to offer, so please feel free to offer a critique/constructive criticism of my work.
     

     

     
    Now, it's time to break out my modeling supplies and tools, and get started . . .
     
    Erik
  20. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from Dimitris71 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    I've had a brief pause on my build.  Rather than sprint into the build, I decided a more methodical approach will yield better results.  So, I bought a bunch of supplies at the hobby shop yesterday, mostly various methods of sanding, sanding sticks, sand paper, etc, and some Maxi-cure extra thick CA.
     
    In preparation for attaching the bulkheads, I thoroughly sanded them on both sides with ever finer grades of sandpaper to get the burn marks off.  My plan is to not paint the bottom of the hull, so I'm proceeding with the thought that it will just be varnished. I'm trying to keep the wood as pristine as possible.  And . . . if I screw up the planking then I'll go ahead and paint the bottom.  Might as well aim high though. 
     

     
    Based on other build logs, I also figured building an assembly jig was a good idea.  So, here's what I came up with.  The keel is straight and plumb with the vertical being at a 90 degree angle.
     

     
    Next step:  Bulkheads.
     
    Erik
  21. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    I've had a brief pause on my build.  Rather than sprint into the build, I decided a more methodical approach will yield better results.  So, I bought a bunch of supplies at the hobby shop yesterday, mostly various methods of sanding, sanding sticks, sand paper, etc, and some Maxi-cure extra thick CA.
     
    In preparation for attaching the bulkheads, I thoroughly sanded them on both sides with ever finer grades of sandpaper to get the burn marks off.  My plan is to not paint the bottom of the hull, so I'm proceeding with the thought that it will just be varnished. I'm trying to keep the wood as pristine as possible.  And . . . if I screw up the planking then I'll go ahead and paint the bottom.  Might as well aim high though. 
     

     
    Based on other build logs, I also figured building an assembly jig was a good idea.  So, here's what I came up with.  The keel is straight and plumb with the vertical being at a 90 degree angle.
     

     
    Next step:  Bulkheads.
     
    Erik
  22. Like
    Erik W reacted to egkb in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Hey There Eric.. I notice that a lot of folks on here (MSW) use Minwax's  Wipe on Poly and it seems to give great results (if you search the MSW Forum for Wipe on Poly you should see some of the results).. unfortunately it isn't available over where I am, else I'd be using it myself  (luckily I did find an alternative though)
     
    I'm looking forward to your build as I have the same wee boat in my 'stash' .
     
    All The Very Best
     
    Eamonn
  23. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from GuntherMT in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    I've had a brief pause on my build.  Rather than sprint into the build, I decided a more methodical approach will yield better results.  So, I bought a bunch of supplies at the hobby shop yesterday, mostly various methods of sanding, sanding sticks, sand paper, etc, and some Maxi-cure extra thick CA.
     
    In preparation for attaching the bulkheads, I thoroughly sanded them on both sides with ever finer grades of sandpaper to get the burn marks off.  My plan is to not paint the bottom of the hull, so I'm proceeding with the thought that it will just be varnished. I'm trying to keep the wood as pristine as possible.  And . . . if I screw up the planking then I'll go ahead and paint the bottom.  Might as well aim high though. 
     

     
    Based on other build logs, I also figured building an assembly jig was a good idea.  So, here's what I came up with.  The keel is straight and plumb with the vertical being at a 90 degree angle.
     

     
    Next step:  Bulkheads.
     
    Erik
  24. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from Dimitris71 in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    Humble beginnings.  The keel and false keel glued together.  Though there is glue evident on the false keel, the keel itself is sanded clean and blemish free.
     

     
    Erik
  25. Like
    Erik W got a reaction from Matrim in 18th Century Longboat by Erik W - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build   
    I've had a brief pause on my build.  Rather than sprint into the build, I decided a more methodical approach will yield better results.  So, I bought a bunch of supplies at the hobby shop yesterday, mostly various methods of sanding, sanding sticks, sand paper, etc, and some Maxi-cure extra thick CA.
     
    In preparation for attaching the bulkheads, I thoroughly sanded them on both sides with ever finer grades of sandpaper to get the burn marks off.  My plan is to not paint the bottom of the hull, so I'm proceeding with the thought that it will just be varnished. I'm trying to keep the wood as pristine as possible.  And . . . if I screw up the planking then I'll go ahead and paint the bottom.  Might as well aim high though. 
     

     
    Based on other build logs, I also figured building an assembly jig was a good idea.  So, here's what I came up with.  The keel is straight and plumb with the vertical being at a 90 degree angle.
     

     
    Next step:  Bulkheads.
     
    Erik
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