Mumin

I had to take a rest after a real bad bout of flu. But i am back and used the time to clean up the inside of the frames on the model. In the process i modified one of my Proxxon sanding tools and have invited Proxxon to produce some accessories that may be of use to our hobby.

Please welcome and thank Wood Project Source for becoming a sponsor of Model Ship World.  WPS supplies milled wood sheets and strips along with carving blocks for many hobbies.  Their specialty is Alaskan Yellow Cedar Sheets and Carving Blocks.  Other species like Yellow Heart, Purple heart, Butternut, Applewood, Dogwood and Mahogany are soon to follow.

 

They also carry the staples for our hobby like Boxwood, Swiss Pear and others.  They are just finishing up their new website so please have some patience with them as they continue adding more wood species and products to their online store.  They have many more than I listed.

 

I have personally bought from them many times as they are close by and I gotten to know the owner.  I have bought some Yellow Cedar and Boxwood from them and will say that I am very happy with the quality of the wood.  They have fantastic prices and they are the lowest I have seen for some wood sheets.

 

Please join me in welcoming them as a sponsor of MSW.

 

Visit their site and check them out.  I am grateful they decided to become a sponsor and didnt hesitate after I asked them about it.

 

www.woodprojectsource.com

Don't soak the stones and clean afterwards. Keep them in water all the time (add a drop or two of vinegar, to eradicate algae/fungus).

Are you stropping the blades periodically as you work?  As soon as the blade is the least bit less than razor sharp strop it and the edge is back.  Stropping reduces the frequency of resharpening.
Kurt

Kurt - I strop like crazy.  I have a good leather strop and stropping compound. After cutting enough notches in deck beams the edge needs refreshing despite the stropping.
 
Grsfax - I could use a single grit for my bigger chisels. I have an alignment guide that holds them at the same angle for sharpening all the time.  For my little chisels, which I use a lot more, my alignment guides aren't as precise, so generally start with a rougher grit and work up.  I used to free hand them, but have been getting a lot better edge with some guides.
 
Mumin - I've thought about this, but the soaking doesn't seem to be my limiting step.  I throw the stones in a bucket of water first. Once I've moved everything that would get damaged if it got wet, cleared some bench space, and gotten the chisel in the alignment guide, they have soaked long enough.  I need something that helps with the whole process.
 
Just wondering what other people do.  Lots of people on the site seem to maintain sharp small instruments despite having limited workshop space.
 
thanks!

Don't soak the stones and clean afterwards. Keep them in water all the time (add a drop or two of vinegar, to eradicate algae/fungus).

Don't soak the stones and clean afterwards. Keep them in water all the time (add a drop or two of vinegar, to eradicate algae/fungus).

Don't soak the stones and clean afterwards. Keep them in water all the time (add a drop or two of vinegar, to eradicate algae/fungus).

I find that  I don't sharpen my chisels often enough because it is a pain to clear off workbench space, pull the sharpening stones and alignment guides out of the drawer, soak the stones, then clean up the water afterwards.  I tend to wait until I need to sharpen a bunch of blades and end up working with a slightly dull instrument if it is the only one that needs sharpening.
 
Do any of you have suggestions for some way of making this easier?  Any solutions for some sort of limited space sharpening station?  
 
thanks!
 
Dave

Really impressed with the kit quality!
The laser cutting is super accurate, the kerf is minimal:

 
All bevels are pre-marked, so you just follow the lines:

 

 
The ply is good, very uniform, no defects, middle layers are not falling apart:

 
Super impressive for the $95 kit. It is the quality you would expect from the $400-$500 range.
Frames are inserted into clear slots in the base board, that ensure perfect alignment.
Notches in the frames and keel are a bit too tight, so all notches and all parts require some filing to fit. That was a bit unexpected, and too tedious for my daughter (so far), so I spend some time filing.. Meh, boring task
 
But there is a steady progress

 

 
End result of the first two modelling sessions:

 
The "building board" is, apparently, a permanent part of the hull (lower deck), the upper parts would be installed on top of it. Interesting idea!

The kit: 

 
Super detailed plans:

 
Fine parts:

 
Castings:

 
Laser cut parts:

 
Laser cut finish level of planking and transom and other parts:

 
Building jig:

I am going to build this kit with my daughter. She was really insisting on building her own wooden ship, like daddy's. Seems to even be ready that it will take a year. Will see, will see, she seems to be really interested 
 
The kit is a 1777 schooner in 1:72 scale made by russian manufacturer Master Korabel (translated as "Master Shipwright").
Laser cut planking, nice wood, seems to be very well thought through!
Includes few PE sheets, very nice castings (anchors and cannons), all fittings have a good quality. The laser cutting is top notch and plywood is high quality as well.
Best part - the price is $95!
Despite having english text on the box, all instructions are in russian. But maybe photo manual would be enough?
Here is the link to the manual, it answers most of questions about this kit construction: http://forum.master-korabel.com/mk0302f.pdf
Some build logs for the ones who are curious:
http://forum.modelsworld.ru/topic13151.html
http://serikoffshipmodels.com/forum/6-576-1
 
Got a few questions "where to buy the kit". My friend bought it in Russia and gave it to me, it is a cheapest option. 
I also found it on ebay, the seller has a 100% rating and looks like a producer of the kit. So maybe buying it directly from the producer via ebay is better.
ebay.co.uk: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mk0302p-Schooner-Polotsk-Wooden-Kit-wood-ship-1-72-model-master-korabel-/112015347120
ebay.com: http://www.ebay.com/itm/mk0302p-Schooner-Polotsk-Wooden-Kit-wood-ship-1-72-model-master-korabel-/112015347120
It is a "plus" version, so a bit more expensive. The kit I bought is a regular one - no boat and the blocks are simpler.
 
The main goal is to enjoy the process together, learn the handcraft and generally have fun. In the end, I would be super proud of her if she will have enough stamina to finish the hull and plank it. That would be quite an achievement for 6 years old.
I will try to show that kit in details, please pardon for the build quality - I am letting her to do as much as possible, not focusing too much on quality and accuracy. Step by step

When headlights are switched on:
 

Time for an update... I didn't really see the benefit of posting every time another plank went on, but here's the result...
 

 

 
And another comparison with Pickle...
 

 
Also - while waiting for glue to dry... (and trying to build my patience!), I began the cannon... these were a little rough as they came out of the cnc cut walnut ply, but by pinning them all together, I was able to tidy them up enough that I'm happy with them (at least without a milling machine, I think I'd struggle to make better from scratch)...
 
 

 

 

 

 
And one with them on the deck to see how the ports line up... (although they're not on their wheels yet, and the deck is yet to be planked...)
 

 
Finally, the bulkhead stubs were removed and the deck marked up for three-shift planking (I think?!?). I used some veneer I had left from Royal Yacht Caroline for the waterways. The gaps at the edge should get covered up by the planking that will go on the inside of the gunport pattern (he said, hopefully!).
 

 

 
Starting to take shape
 
Happy building
 
Rob
 
[edited to restore photos, 11, 13 July 2017]
 

Build day 48. Finishing the looks.
1 hour today.
140 hours into build in total.  
Thanks a lot for the good wishes and appraisals!
 
I can't wait for the maiden voyage either but it may unfortunately have to wait until better weather conditions. Right now it is well below freezing point, which is not the most convenient weather for it  . I hope, though, to be able to perform some floating and balance etc tests, in a bathtub or similar.
  Today I installed the side metal bars and only the the radio control connections are remaining. I will probably have time to do them next weekend. Other than that, my Riva is ready, at least by the looks!
 
I will continue posting as long as there is anything worth sharing with other parts like radio setup and floating tests, but until then thanks for watching and have a good time! Here are some final photos for enjoyment! 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's been about two years and I'm now in the mood again to work on my H. M. S. Triton (cross section). I want to get it finished. I got very discouraged about the build after I started it because I was being a bit of a perfectionist. I now realized that I don't need to be a perfectionist. I just need to be me and to have fun with the build and want ever the build turns out to be will be alright.
Anyway, I'm back and I'm glad.
I can't seem to find my build now. I guess I was away to long. Anyway, I will dust off the spider webs and get busy.
Ron 

Welcome back Ron,
 
You are right, you don't need to be a perfectionist. As the saying goes: 'Be ever wonderful, stay as you are'.
 
Your log isn't gone, here It is: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/479-hms-triton-cross-section-by-long9ron-scale-148/?hl=long9ron
There are some pictures missing in logs 115, 124, 127 + 133. Maybe you can post them again.
 
Enjoy and happy modelling.
 
Regards,
Anja

While the paint is drying, I wanted to build the base of my Aquarama. This is also by Amati, ordered from snmodels.com:
 

 

 

 
Pieces glued, waiting to dry (about 24 hours):
 

Side frames (those which will go along the edge of the deck. Apparently in the earlier versions of the kit they were supplied in metal, while in the new version which I have they are in plastic. I assume it will make it easier to install and with a good paint job they will look like metal:
 

 
Sprayed with glossy chrome paint. Waiting to dry:
 

Headlight frames. The lightbulb sockets in the photo will not be used as I have installed real LEDs.
 

 
Glued acetate:
 

 
Headlight frames glued and nailed in place:
 

If you have checked my earlier posts, I had installed the exhaust pipe frames without nails due to a mistake I made in the order of installation, i.e. I had glued the exhaust pipe before installing the frame, making it hard to hammer the nails. Now I have the necessary tool  and it is time to hammer those nails:
 

Aquarama logo on the dashboard as well as Riva logo on the sides of the hull:
 

 

 

 

Build day 47. Almost there...
 
Nowadays due to busy work schedule the weekends are the only days I can only spare time for my Aquarama. 
 
Excitement builds up as the end comes closer.
 
First thing today, the steering wheel in place:
 

 
Then, the trays at the back of the front seats:
 
1. Detach the mahogany frames:
 

 
2. Sand away the laser cut burns (in the photo you see both cleaned and uncleaned):
 

 
3. Stain the frames:
 

 

 
4. Detach the photo etched grills and glue them to the frames:
 

 
5. Trays in place (so are the front seats):
 

End of Build day 47.
3 hours today.
139 hours into build in total.   Well, this is the result of today. I will install the side lines tomorrow, once the paint has dried. Not much work left really. After this, it will be installing the radio control units.   Here are some photos for your enjoyment. Thanks for watching.                      

Hi Ronald,
The website is the link which posted Ulises (Thanks Ulises ).
The metal parts will be produced by the same suppliers as produced it in the past (I do not produce it), for this reason I will be not able to have them in stock until the production will start (because there is need to order bigger quantity).
 
Daniel