michael mott

The plans from Mystic Seaport Museum are on their way, This is exciting.
 
Michael

Somehow it didn’t klick with me, that you started another log here.
 
Daniels’ book seems to be widely used, indeed, in the trade. I don’t own a copy, but have a variety of other, mainly antiquarian books on watch- and intrument-making.
 
 I’ll have to watch this log then as well ...

Well here is the truth about the new sink.
First task was to start with a new former

 
And cut a new sheet of copper .031"

 
After laying out the cuts use jewelers saw.

 
Then without any annealing begin the folds

 

 

 
At this point I needed to do some cutting and used a small nibbler

 

 
Then the trimmed edges need to be cleaned up this was done by first unfolding the metal a little
 

 
Then using a bit of wood as a guide filed the edges.

 
The refolded and wired the seams together  and used easyflo silver solder to join the seams. My silver soldering skills still leave a lot to be desired but I am improving.

 
and it looks better than the first one.
 

 
I would do it differently if I had to do it again, making only clean corner joints...... but that's for another boat.
 
Michael
 
 

Ah yes..... more, bigger, better!
The issues of being land locked and with shallow lakes around my neck of the woods. I have built and sailed 2 full sized sailboats and recently gave away the last one Maria. 
I have watched with great admiration the likes of Luke Powell build beautiful cutters. Perhaps in another life.
 
I was just thinking about why I do the work that I do this morning as I woke up, and I must say that there is really only one answer and that is because it makes me happy to be mucking about with ideas about how to do this or that with a bit of wood or brass or watercolour paint. Having the time to think about these things is a luxury that I know is not accessible to many, and that bothers me.
 
One of the joys of this forum for me is being able to watch and follow along many of the builds both simple and complex that are presented here. I read a comment about life from an author of a new book this morning "Use Less Share More" It sums up for me many of the things that I follow on this forum. Yesterday when I showed the beautiful curved lines in a bit of crab apple pruning gives me as much pleasure as spending an Hour being awe struck by the beauty and complexity of Doris's Royal Katherine made of paper and card. or GB's little fishing vessel . I learn from each. It is such a wonderful journey this learning thing.
So if you had told me in 1976 that I would be using bits of this 2 foot log of maple in a model of a sailboat that I had would be working on for 8 or more years, I would have said, hmmmm...interesting, where is your crystal ball?
 
Off now to fiddle with a few bits of maple.
 
Michael

Thanks for all the likes and looks.
 
Just a small update regarding the design of the steps

The bottom set will be removable and held with a couple of simple latches, the upper set will have the middle two steps attached to the panel which is an access to the space under the cockpit and aft of the hull. Still working out the quarter berths.
 
Michael

Thanks everyone for the wonderfully encouraging comments and likes.
In order to capture the rods I decided that a handle could act as both the means to rotate from the inside and also act as the capture. First a disk of 1/2 inch brass was turned down to 3/16 for about 1/8 (1") and two holes .031" x .030" deep to match the pins were drilled and a clearance hole through the centre for a countersunk 00x 90 machine screw. then it was parted off the bar.
 

 
This was positioned onto the rear side of the spindle and the position marked for the full extension of the rods with a sharpie.

 

 
Next the surplus was removed with the jewelers saw.
 

 
and was then filed and polished to the final shape.
 

 
the door plate was pinned into position prior to placing the door knob.
 

 
then placed into the opening to check size.
The rods are cut to their final length.
 

 

 
and the outside
 

 
Now for some supper.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

The article details some interesting methods for the creation of the model by Christopher Morrison, some of the details at 1/32nd scale of  a 21 foot boat on page 222 there is a footnote that mentions that George Daniels book Watchmaking is one of the three most important modelmaking books he has ever read, I concur with that assessment, I was given a copy of this book for my 50th birthday in 1998

George makes the art of metalwork sound as easy as snapping lego bricks together. The book is a treasure trove of techniques and is full of wonderful drawings illustrating these techniques.
 
One of the interesting things that Christopher Morrison points out in the description of Gill Smiths boats is that he used sawn natural crook frames from Oak. Planking of Cedar, deck planking of Pine ,Cedar , or Cypress.  
 
I have three types of trees in my backyard Crab-apple, Amur Maple, and Bur Oak. I keep all the pruning pieces and save some for modelwork and some for the occasional evening sit by the fire pit in the late summer evenings. 
 
here is a lovely piece of apple that I cut 1/2 inch thick and stickered after a major limb was pruned a few years ago.
first the rough bandsawn side
 

 
Hand planing the surface.

 
and a close up of the smooth surface, so for a naturally curved beam.
 

 
The piece is about 13 inches long.
 
There was a replica of Pauline made called Anitra in 1988, I am hoping that there were photographs taken of the build.
 
Michael
 
Michael
 
 
 

Hi Mark
Just catching up Glad to see that you are back working on the ship. I had missed your earlier troubles so am happy to hear that your health issue is receding into the past. And that you are moving forward with the planking. As has already been stated our focus on our model work is a great healing power. 
 
Michael

Bob thanks for the detailed information regarding the through hull outlets and the siphon loops. I had not really thought about this aspect of our modern small cruise boats let alone the older craft.
 
I agree...But....  but my grandaughter  would not.
Seriously though The idea is to be able to show what can be seen relatively easily and a few things that need a little searching but still visible with perhaps a small dental type mirror. I do want to move on to the next project before I am too old to have fun.
 
Thank you to everyone who is following along and showing their appreciation in one way or another.
 
Michael
 

It depends on the thickness of the material and the number of teeth. The coarser blades are generally easier for the wood. In this case the blade was fine enough to also cut the copper because it was sharp and had not become dull from cutting metal before.
 
This graphic representation shows the .031 copper and the #1 jewelers blade that has 47 teeth per inch next to the edge of the metal there need to be at least 2 teeth engaging with the metal or the blade will catch and there is a possibility of ripping off a tooth and or snapping the blade.
 

 
I hope this answers your question. I also have some #8/0, #5/0, #3/0 The #8/0 is the finest.
 
Michael

Well here is the truth about the new sink.
First task was to start with a new former

 
And cut a new sheet of copper .031"

 
After laying out the cuts use jewelers saw.

 
Then without any annealing begin the folds

 

 

 
At this point I needed to do some cutting and used a small nibbler

 

 
Then the trimmed edges need to be cleaned up this was done by first unfolding the metal a little
 

 
Then using a bit of wood as a guide filed the edges.

 
The refolded and wired the seams together  and used easyflo silver solder to join the seams. My silver soldering skills still leave a lot to be desired but I am improving.

 
and it looks better than the first one.
 

 
I would do it differently if I had to do it again, making only clean corner joints...... but that's for another boat.
 
Michael
 
 

Yes this is interesting, The model is really a vehicle for my learning about model ships and boats.
 
And in reality it is just that, because I am using materials and ideas from all sort of times and styles. 
 
I spent some time today discussing the bashed up sink with the owner and he said "well I know we are on a budget but its not that tight, cant you find a better sink than that."
So looking around I found this one
 

 
Michael
 

I had a long chat with the owner and he reminded me that we were on a budget with this refit so I mentioned that I would try to find a used copper sink, I found one on MYBAY it was the right price.
 

 
Checked the fit
 

 

 
Ok so here's how I did it
 

 
Cut out a bit of copper sheet

made up a former from some scrap maple 2x1.5x 3/4 then sanded it smooth.  Annealed the copper and started bashing
 

 
Many annealings and bashings later with a leather mallet
 

and more bashings couple of different hammers but mostly with a too big ball pein.
 

 
A couple of clean up hammerings and then cleaned up the top and dropped it into the pickle .

 
I picked up the gauntlet Druxey you have a habit of dropping it.😉
 
I'm not going down that other rabbit hole
 
Greg I think I read an article about that Model in a Scale ships or similar magazine I seem to recall it had gold and silver fittings.
 
Eberhard, I have not figured it out yet I will be doing a bit of searching to see if I can find some better pictures of the type that is in Integrity.
 
Michael
 
 
 

A little more fiddling with the design of the kitchen/chart area with some card mock ups.

 

 

 

 

 
Not much to say about these pics other than it is fiddly work putting these card bits in and out, but they will help me build the wooden equivalents. I think that I will drape mold the sink out of styrene then spray it silver. My silver smith friend would cringe if she hear me say that.
 
Michael
 

Ah yes..... more, bigger, better!
The issues of being land locked and with shallow lakes around my neck of the woods. I have built and sailed 2 full sized sailboats and recently gave away the last one Maria. 
I have watched with great admiration the likes of Luke Powell build beautiful cutters. Perhaps in another life.
 
I was just thinking about why I do the work that I do this morning as I woke up, and I must say that there is really only one answer and that is because it makes me happy to be mucking about with ideas about how to do this or that with a bit of wood or brass or watercolour paint. Having the time to think about these things is a luxury that I know is not accessible to many, and that bothers me.
 
One of the joys of this forum for me is being able to watch and follow along many of the builds both simple and complex that are presented here. I read a comment about life from an author of a new book this morning "Use Less Share More" It sums up for me many of the things that I follow on this forum. Yesterday when I showed the beautiful curved lines in a bit of crab apple pruning gives me as much pleasure as spending an Hour being awe struck by the beauty and complexity of Doris's Royal Katherine made of paper and card. or GB's little fishing vessel . I learn from each. It is such a wonderful journey this learning thing.
So if you had told me in 1976 that I would be using bits of this 2 foot log of maple in a model of a sailboat that I had would be working on for 8 or more years, I would have said, hmmmm...interesting, where is your crystal ball?
 
Off now to fiddle with a few bits of maple.
 
Michael

Thanks for all the likes and looks.
 
Just a small update regarding the design of the steps

The bottom set will be removable and held with a couple of simple latches, the upper set will have the middle two steps attached to the panel which is an access to the space under the cockpit and aft of the hull. Still working out the quarter berths.
 
Michael

More like this?

Thanks everyone for the wonderfully encouraging comments and likes.
In order to capture the rods I decided that a handle could act as both the means to rotate from the inside and also act as the capture. First a disk of 1/2 inch brass was turned down to 3/16 for about 1/8 (1") and two holes .031" x .030" deep to match the pins were drilled and a clearance hole through the centre for a countersunk 00x 90 machine screw. then it was parted off the bar.
 

 
This was positioned onto the rear side of the spindle and the position marked for the full extension of the rods with a sharpie.

 

 
Next the surplus was removed with the jewelers saw.
 

 
and was then filed and polished to the final shape.
 

 
the door plate was pinned into position prior to placing the door knob.
 

 
then placed into the opening to check size.
The rods are cut to their final length.
 

 

 
and the outside
 

 
Now for some supper.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

I only cut about 3/4 of an inch off the length of the piece for the gift. I will put together a display that will give it the visual attention to show the piece to advantage, I like the ideal of including the artwork as well perhaps a note about the treenail and their use.
 
Michael

I had not thought about that so now I will do something to protect it and put a small information label with it. The peg does indeed look to be a treenail it does go right through and is mangled on the other side.
 
I am really enjoying your journey of discovery and research Rob on the Glory of the seas.
 
Michael

About 42 years ago I made a small commission for a chap who was giving a gift to an owner of a swan yacht, it was a small brass bracket with a chunk of the deck of the clipper ship the Lightning which sank at Geelong. In payment for the work I asked for the balance of the piece of the deck. it was granted, here is the piece that I have.
 

 

 

 
Michael
 
 
 

Hi Rob just catching up. Looks like you have your work cut out for you now. What a great experience to have the time to meet and discuss your project with the author of books about your subject model.
 
Michael

Bob thanks for the detailed information regarding the through hull outlets and the siphon loops. I had not really thought about this aspect of our modern small cruise boats let alone the older craft.
 
I agree...But....  but my grandaughter  would not.
Seriously though The idea is to be able to show what can be seen relatively easily and a few things that need a little searching but still visible with perhaps a small dental type mirror. I do want to move on to the next project before I am too old to have fun.
 
Thank you to everyone who is following along and showing their appreciation in one way or another.
 
Michael
 

Well here is the truth about the new sink.
First task was to start with a new former

 
And cut a new sheet of copper .031"

 
After laying out the cuts use jewelers saw.

 
Then without any annealing begin the folds

 

 

 
At this point I needed to do some cutting and used a small nibbler

 

 
Then the trimmed edges need to be cleaned up this was done by first unfolding the metal a little
 

 
Then using a bit of wood as a guide filed the edges.

 
The refolded and wired the seams together  and used easyflo silver solder to join the seams. My silver soldering skills still leave a lot to be desired but I am improving.

 
and it looks better than the first one.
 

 
I would do it differently if I had to do it again, making only clean corner joints...... but that's for another boat.
 
Michael
 
 

Bob thanks for the detailed information regarding the through hull outlets and the siphon loops. I had not really thought about this aspect of our modern small cruise boats let alone the older craft.
 
I agree...But....  but my grandaughter  would not.
Seriously though The idea is to be able to show what can be seen relatively easily and a few things that need a little searching but still visible with perhaps a small dental type mirror. I do want to move on to the next project before I am too old to have fun.
 
Thank you to everyone who is following along and showing their appreciation in one way or another.
 
Michael