michael mott

Thank you Thomas! I also can't wait to see what magic you do with the rigging! 😀
 
I finished repeating the entire process for the topmasts. Now the model is ready for the ratlines. I'm equally nervous and excited for this step. I'll be sure to take my time with it. Anyways... here are some pics:





 






I guess after ratlines are done, the rest of the standing rigging will progress through fairly quickly. I'm really looking forward to how she'll look at the end of this chapter. 😄

Thanks so much for the great comments and likes!!
 
I finished with the sheer poles, futtock staves, futtock shrouds, and lower catharpins. For the staves and sheer poles I followed what Ed did in his YA build. I opted to go for the harder route for the catharpins where it was lashed in two parts of the shrouds. The first one was tricky then I got the hang of it. I first fully served them with an eye splice on each side, then tied them around the stave with a normal knot. There was a lot of adjustment needed to make sure it is centered and also tensioned properly. When cutting the thread the knot is barely visible.
 
Here are some pics!









I am thinking of finishing up the fore and main top mast shrouds, so I can do the ratlines all at once. This is another item I am very nervous about...

Well here is the truth about the new sink.
First task was to start with a new former

 
And cut a new sheet of copper .031"

 
After laying out the cuts use jewelers saw.

 
Then without any annealing begin the folds

 

 

 
At this point I needed to do some cutting and used a small nibbler

 

 
Then the trimmed edges need to be cleaned up this was done by first unfolding the metal a little
 

 
Then using a bit of wood as a guide filed the edges.

 
The refolded and wired the seams together  and used easyflo silver solder to join the seams. My silver soldering skills still leave a lot to be desired but I am improving.

 
and it looks better than the first one.
 

 
I would do it differently if I had to do it again, making only clean corner joints...... but that's for another boat.
 
Michael
 
 

Well beaten, Michael!  That was not an easy shape to raise. Copper looks much nicer than plastic, don't you think?

Yes this is interesting, The model is really a vehicle for my learning about model ships and boats.
 
And in reality it is just that, because I am using materials and ideas from all sort of times and styles. 
 
I spent some time today discussing the bashed up sink with the owner and he said "well I know we are on a budget but its not that tight, cant you find a better sink than that."
So looking around I found this one
 

 
Michael
 

At the risk of precipitating a complete nervous breakdown at this point... 
 
I'm just curious. Is that sink's drain well above the waterline at maximum heeling angle or no? If not, you'll have to equip the sink drain with a check valve, siphon breaking loop, and a pump to empty it out after use. Will the pump be manual or electric?

Yes this is interesting, The model is really a vehicle for my learning about model ships and boats.
 
And in reality it is just that, because I am using materials and ideas from all sort of times and styles. 
 
I spent some time today discussing the bashed up sink with the owner and he said "well I know we are on a budget but its not that tight, cant you find a better sink than that."
So looking around I found this one
 

 
Michael
 

Yes this is interesting, The model is really a vehicle for my learning about model ships and boats.
 
And in reality it is just that, because I am using materials and ideas from all sort of times and styles. 
 
I spent some time today discussing the bashed up sink with the owner and he said "well I know we are on a budget but its not that tight, cant you find a better sink than that."
So looking around I found this one
 

 
Michael
 

Yes this is interesting, The model is really a vehicle for my learning about model ships and boats.
 
And in reality it is just that, because I am using materials and ideas from all sort of times and styles. 
 
I spent some time today discussing the bashed up sink with the owner and he said "well I know we are on a budget but its not that tight, cant you find a better sink than that."
So looking around I found this one
 

 
Michael
 

I had a long chat with the owner and he reminded me that we were on a budget with this refit so I mentioned that I would try to find a used copper sink, I found one on MYBAY it was the right price.
 

 
Checked the fit
 

 

 
Ok so here's how I did it
 

 
Cut out a bit of copper sheet

made up a former from some scrap maple 2x1.5x 3/4 then sanded it smooth.  Annealed the copper and started bashing
 

 
Many annealings and bashings later with a leather mallet
 

and more bashings couple of different hammers but mostly with a too big ball pein.
 

 
A couple of clean up hammerings and then cleaned up the top and dropped it into the pickle .

 
I picked up the gauntlet Druxey you have a habit of dropping it.😉
 
I'm not going down that other rabbit hole
 
Greg I think I read an article about that Model in a Scale ships or similar magazine I seem to recall it had gold and silver fittings.
 
Eberhard, I have not figured it out yet I will be doing a bit of searching to see if I can find some better pictures of the type that is in Integrity.
 
Michael
 
 
 

Yes this is interesting, The model is really a vehicle for my learning about model ships and boats.
 
And in reality it is just that, because I am using materials and ideas from all sort of times and styles. 
 
I spent some time today discussing the bashed up sink with the owner and he said "well I know we are on a budget but its not that tight, cant you find a better sink than that."
So looking around I found this one
 

 
Michael
 

Yes this is interesting, The model is really a vehicle for my learning about model ships and boats.
 
And in reality it is just that, because I am using materials and ideas from all sort of times and styles. 
 
I spent some time today discussing the bashed up sink with the owner and he said "well I know we are on a budget but its not that tight, cant you find a better sink than that."
So looking around I found this one
 

 
Michael
 

Hi Vaddoc, I was not able to avoid "dog ears" as you say. I had to trim the edges a few times to remove excess material as it closed up Also I used some heavy needle nosed pliers a fer times to flatten out a couple of areas at the corners that were beginning to fold. I do not have the proper tools for serious metal smithing in a jewelers sense, so the final form is a bit crude. Sorry I did not take a few more pictures of some of the steps especially the trimming, to remove the excess, it was a lot of concentration during the work.
 
Oh yes lots of stuff, And that is what is so great about this site I learn so much from all the wonderful things that the other members do.
 
Oh oh.... I see another gauntlet....
 
I was looking at the web regarding stoves and it seems like the one in Integrity is a Taylor Stove there are some good photographs, it was also interesting reading about the pros and cons of the different fuel types, Old Style Alcohol, New Style Pressure Alcohol , plus the kerosene /diesel types and the LPG gas ones.
 
Michael

I had a long chat with the owner and he reminded me that we were on a budget with this refit so I mentioned that I would try to find a used copper sink, I found one on MYBAY it was the right price.
 

 
Checked the fit
 

 

 
Ok so here's how I did it
 

 
Cut out a bit of copper sheet

made up a former from some scrap maple 2x1.5x 3/4 then sanded it smooth.  Annealed the copper and started bashing
 

 
Many annealings and bashings later with a leather mallet
 

and more bashings couple of different hammers but mostly with a too big ball pein.
 

 
A couple of clean up hammerings and then cleaned up the top and dropped it into the pickle .

 
I picked up the gauntlet Druxey you have a habit of dropping it.😉
 
I'm not going down that other rabbit hole
 
Greg I think I read an article about that Model in a Scale ships or similar magazine I seem to recall it had gold and silver fittings.
 
Eberhard, I have not figured it out yet I will be doing a bit of searching to see if I can find some better pictures of the type that is in Integrity.
 
Michael
 
 
 

This is the new project that has to be fully researched yet. There is some cursory information for this model in the Thesis by Daria Elizabeth Merwin pages 57-65
I will add information as it comes together  before the build starts.
 
 

Well that certainly was a bit of a shock.
 
I will not try to rebuild everything back to the begining but here is a brief overview of from there to here.
 
This pilot cutter is based on some plans that were published by MAP
(Model and Allied Press) back in the early 70's and those plans were actually
based on the fishing smack CK482. Those of you who have seen the build in the past
will already be familiar with what I have done so far.
 
The model is

LOD 63 inches

LOA 84 inches

Beam 18 inches

Draft 10 1/2 inches

My intention is to sail this model here are a few pics of the build





The frames are Jellutong, and the planking on the hull is Cedar.





 
The roller reefing is custom built around a worm gear on hand.

The mast is Clear Fir and the boom is Spruce.


 


The deck is double planked the lower planks are white pine glued and treenailed
into place the top planks are clear Fir the caulking is coloured Carpenters
glue the top planks will also be treenailed in place.
 
The cockpit surround is Honduras Mahogany as is the forward hatch and the cabin
sides.
 

 
The underside of the
cockpit coaming the walls will drop into the opening 2 1/14 inches and there
will be a gasket around the edge of the deck under the coaming. The cockpit
will be fixed into the hull with a couple of brass machine screws then a teak
floor grate will cover those. this way I can access the rudder controls and
keep the water
 

 
I have learned form this experience to back up everything and am now building my log in MSword and posting to the site.
 
It is great to have the site back.
 
Michael
 

I had a long chat with the owner and he reminded me that we were on a budget with this refit so I mentioned that I would try to find a used copper sink, I found one on MYBAY it was the right price.
 

 
Checked the fit
 

 

 
Ok so here's how I did it
 

 
Cut out a bit of copper sheet

made up a former from some scrap maple 2x1.5x 3/4 then sanded it smooth.  Annealed the copper and started bashing
 

 
Many annealings and bashings later with a leather mallet
 

and more bashings couple of different hammers but mostly with a too big ball pein.
 

 
A couple of clean up hammerings and then cleaned up the top and dropped it into the pickle .

 
I picked up the gauntlet Druxey you have a habit of dropping it.😉
 
I'm not going down that other rabbit hole
 
Greg I think I read an article about that Model in a Scale ships or similar magazine I seem to recall it had gold and silver fittings.
 
Eberhard, I have not figured it out yet I will be doing a bit of searching to see if I can find some better pictures of the type that is in Integrity.
 
Michael
 
 
 

Thanks for all the likes and looks.
 
Just a small update regarding the design of the steps

The bottom set will be removable and held with a couple of simple latches, the upper set will have the middle two steps attached to the panel which is an access to the space under the cockpit and aft of the hull. Still working out the quarter berths.
 
Michael

Thanks everyone for the wonderfully encouraging comments and likes.
In order to capture the rods I decided that a handle could act as both the means to rotate from the inside and also act as the capture. First a disk of 1/2 inch brass was turned down to 3/16 for about 1/8 (1") and two holes .031" x .030" deep to match the pins were drilled and a clearance hole through the centre for a countersunk 00x 90 machine screw. then it was parted off the bar.
 

 
This was positioned onto the rear side of the spindle and the position marked for the full extension of the rods with a sharpie.

 

 
Next the surplus was removed with the jewelers saw.
 

 
and was then filed and polished to the final shape.
 

 
the door plate was pinned into position prior to placing the door knob.
 

 
then placed into the opening to check size.
The rods are cut to their final length.
 

 

 
and the outside
 

 
Now for some supper.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

For the lock I have decided on a variation of the crash bar type rodding.
First a handle spindle was turned up from some 1/4 inch brass rod and stepped down to 1/16 at the handle end then 3/32 for the section that coes through the door frame and finally 3/16 for the cam section.
A separate door knob was bored out to slide over the 1/16 end. The spindle was then pushed into place and transferred to the mill for drilling the hole for the taper pin to hold the handle on.
 

 
Then using the taper reamer for the third smallest pin
 

 
the pin will get cut to length later.
 

 
A .020 plate was cut and drilled for the door plate
 

 
and the cam side was set into the door frame .030"
 

 
The pins in the cam disk are taper pins that have been driven home with the tiny hammer and cleaned off.
 

 
some bars of 1/32 x 1/16 were drilled out to fit over the .023" pins
 
 
 

 
Next some capture plates were folded up out of some .010" using the vice as a press
 


 
after punching some .020 holes and a little rough shaping it looks like it will work.
 

 

 
I might make some cleaner ones tomorrow. and figure out the handle for the inside  which will also capture the bars
 
Ah yes then some more hinges.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

The beveled, panels looked a bit heavy so opted for a different style. I planed up some thinner panels and put a bevel into the stiles and rails.

 

 

 

 
Now I need to sort out a locking mechanism.
 
Michael

Thanks Pat, and to everyone for registering a nod with the like button.
 
I keep thinking I should have made a lot more hinges when I was making them earlier. Also one of the troubles with Cad is that it took me ages to discover what the problem was with getting an accurate drawing of the doors to the companionway. Cad is much too accurate! I was taking measurements and putting them into the drawing, and then the next measurements were conflicting, and things seemed to be mismatching. I even set up a sting datum line from stem to stern to double check the details of the cockpit and companionway, Printed out the doors cut them out and they did not fit cleanly. 
Went back did more and different measurements, printed it out again, another different slight mismatch.
 
Then I discovered that the deck is 3/64ths lower on the port side than the starboard and that there is a 1/32nd parallelogram to the companionway relative to the deck.
 
A final adjustment to the drawing "as built" Ah then it fit.

 
Then I was able to prepare the wood for the doors.
 

 
The rough elements still a lot to do shaping the panels, but at least some progress after a frustrating morning drawing.
 
Michael
 

Thanks for the comments and likes, The are encouraging.
As the work continues with the refit of the cockpit cum companionway. I needed to add enough wood to create the jams for the doors I cut up some small strips with the jewelers saw, it seems to be just as fast as setting up the table saw and wastes far less wood, and I am loath to waste Mahogany anyway.

A couple of strokes with the Veritas low angle block plane on the thicknessing jig to prepare them for gluing.
 

 

A stop was added after the filler pieces had been glued.
 

I still need to add the piece across the bottom, and then I noticed that the back beam across the hatch was going to interfere with the top of the doors so out with the alcohol.
 

Reposition the part after a bit of clean up.
 

 
Now the stage it set for the doors.
 

 
Yes I noticed the scratch and the misaligned screws.
 
Michael

Or daft depending on which school of Design one subscribes to. The reason of course is that if I had known back in 2012 what I current know (a little more) I would have designed the cockpit and deck openings differently. Because this model is not of a particular vessel but a combination of ideas from the type along with the current ideas of modern yachts being built as recreational boats for the pleasure of those with deep enough pockets, but alluding to the traditional working craft of the previous centuries. Basically this model is my apprenticeship for plank on frame model boats and rigging. My next model sailboat is likely going to be a Gill Smith catboat which will be an accurate model This is my tracing of a drawing from a book.

 
That will need to wait though I still have a few things to learn and a trip down east to see the gill smith boats that are in a museum. once all the Covid issues are sorted. The Cat boats have such a beautiful and simple rig. back in 1970's I cannot remember the year I made a half model of a cat boat from a drawing that was in a scan from an early issue of Rudder that a friend send me. 
 

 

 
The future looks exciting.
 
Michael

I had a long chat with the owner and he reminded me that we were on a budget with this refit so I mentioned that I would try to find a used copper sink, I found one on MYBAY it was the right price.
 

 
Checked the fit
 

 

 
Ok so here's how I did it
 

 
Cut out a bit of copper sheet

made up a former from some scrap maple 2x1.5x 3/4 then sanded it smooth.  Annealed the copper and started bashing
 

 
Many annealings and bashings later with a leather mallet
 

and more bashings couple of different hammers but mostly with a too big ball pein.
 

 
A couple of clean up hammerings and then cleaned up the top and dropped it into the pickle .

 
I picked up the gauntlet Druxey you have a habit of dropping it.😉
 
I'm not going down that other rabbit hole
 
Greg I think I read an article about that Model in a Scale ships or similar magazine I seem to recall it had gold and silver fittings.
 
Eberhard, I have not figured it out yet I will be doing a bit of searching to see if I can find some better pictures of the type that is in Integrity.
 
Michael