michael mott

Goose-neck Part 2
 
continuing on this picture does show the roller reefing that inspired my version.
 

 
the worm was held in place with two retainers that were filed up and bolted with 2x56 round headed machine screws, the shaft through the worm is 1/8th diameter filed square at each end, so the the reefing can happen from either side.
 

 

 

 
The part of the goose neck that is fitted to the mast was inspired by one from Cockwells web site .
 
The first step was to machine up the block to mate to the boom(this needed extensive fining to allow the boom to swing when I mated the two parts together) the top and bottom straps were silver soldered to the block this also annealed the bands.
 

 

 

 
I used this same technique for the base step band.
 
The soldered and formed piece. ready for clean up, .. files, emery paper , steel wool .
 

 
Final assembly
 

 

 
end of roller reefing
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Tim, Bob, Daniel, Carl, Druxey, thank you very much for taking the time to look in and share your thoughts.
 
Mark, The Mast step was pretty straight forward I annealed the .062 brass wrap around piece first(heat to red then let cool)then folded it around the wood first by using a small clamp to hold the strip evenly in the centre of the strip. once it was u shaped then clamping across the sides and finishing the wrap. The bottom edge was cleaned up on a sheet of 240 emery paper carpet taped down on a flat board of MDF.
I then silver soldered the wrapper to the base sheet with the lowest melt temp easy-flo solder ( I forget the temp)
 
The clean up was done with sanding sticks and the hole was slotted by clamping in the mill vice and using a 1/8th 2 flute end mill cut the slots which entailed rotating to do the stern abd port and starboard sides. The relief on the bow or clamping side was fretted out with a jewelers saw.
 
a final clean up with medium steel wool.
 
Here are some step by step pictures of the roller reefing and the goosneck.
 
The roller reefing was inspired by a photo on the web and I cannot remember the site so I cannot show the photo.
I had a worm drive in the scrap box and needed to make worm gear to match (loosely) so I stuck the worm into some Milton Bradley mock up clay(auto-body design clay, plasticine would have worked equally well) to see the angle to rotate the vice. I have the mill vice sitting on a 12 inch rotary table on the mill. then using a 30 tooth clock gear out of the scrap box  as an index I used a 1/16 end mill to rough cut the teeth.
 

 

 
The worm was relieved at each end to leave just a few turns in the centre.
 

 

 
The end of the boom was drilled out by using a bushing jig that was turned up on the lathe.
 

 

 
Next the goose-neck piece for the boom, this was machined from a 1 inch cube of brass and had a 3/8 drill rod shaft soldered in with soft solder.
 

 

 
The section slide into the boom the boom was held to the gear with a piece of brass tube machined down to the right diameter from a 3 inch brass 3/4 inch plumbing nipple. the boom was chiseled to accept the brass tube-like sleeve the gear was attached with brass machine screws. and the boom with #1 wood screws.
 
End of Part 1
 
Michael
 
 
 

Mark Thanks.
Remco, Thanks I am pretty pleased with it myself.
 
I did a little more work on the cockpit walls today.
 

 
The groove is visible for the gasket around the walls.
 

 
Chiselling out the corner blocks to create the rounded corners.
 

 
The shaping is in the first stage so that I can fit the floor plate.
 

 
Michael

Well that certainly was a bit of a shock.
 
I will not try to rebuild everything back to the begining but here is a brief overview of from there to here.
 
This pilot cutter is based on some plans that were published by MAP
(Model and Allied Press) back in the early 70's and those plans were actually
based on the fishing smack CK482. Those of you who have seen the build in the past
will already be familiar with what I have done so far.
 
The model is

LOD 63 inches

LOA 84 inches

Beam 18 inches

Draft 10 1/2 inches

My intention is to sail this model here are a few pics of the build





The frames are Jellutong, and the planking on the hull is Cedar.





 
The roller reefing is custom built around a worm gear on hand.

The mast is Clear Fir and the boom is Spruce.


 


The deck is double planked the lower planks are white pine glued and treenailed
into place the top planks are clear Fir the caulking is coloured Carpenters
glue the top planks will also be treenailed in place.
 
The cockpit surround is Honduras Mahogany as is the forward hatch and the cabin
sides.
 

 
The underside of the
cockpit coaming the walls will drop into the opening 2 1/14 inches and there
will be a gasket around the edge of the deck under the coaming. The cockpit
will be fixed into the hull with a couple of brass machine screws then a teak
floor grate will cover those. this way I can access the rudder controls and
keep the water
 

 
I have learned form this experience to back up everything and am now building my log in MSword and posting to the site.
 
It is great to have the site back.
 
Michael
 

First question, in the back of my van and onto a trolly with bicycle wheels the mast will be an easy take down.
 
Second question The ceiling in my shop slopes from 8 feet at the north wall (where the mill is) to 12 feet at the windows overlooking the lake.
 
so no problem in either case.
 
Popeye thanks for the kind words.
 
Carl here is the modified mast step. the openings will not create any capillary now.
 

 
Also began working on the set up for the shrouds.
 

 

 
I am going to roll the top of the chain plate to create a loop for the deadeye shackle. the scale size is 2 3/4 x 3/8 metal strap.
 
michael

A bit more work on the big build today. I started to bring the rough bulwark rail into shape, while waiting for paint to dry.
 

 

 
This evening I started the base of the mast, the mast will be stepped on the deck with the king post underneath to the keel.
 

 
Fretted out the base sheet and annealed a strip and bent it around the base, Cleaned up the parts with a file and silver soldered them together, It still needs a bit of clean up I do that tomorrow.
 

 
I drilled some drainage holes at the base to let any water out of the base of the mast.
 

 
Now a long shot, the mast is a snug fit in the fitting. so I was able to get a sense of the whole thing.
 

 
and big me checking things out.
 

 
Michael
 
 

A bit more work on the big build today. I started to bring the rough bulwark rail into shape, while waiting for paint to dry.
 

 

 
This evening I started the base of the mast, the mast will be stepped on the deck with the king post underneath to the keel.
 

 
Fretted out the base sheet and annealed a strip and bent it around the base, Cleaned up the parts with a file and silver soldered them together, It still needs a bit of clean up I do that tomorrow.
 

 
I drilled some drainage holes at the base to let any water out of the base of the mast.
 

 
Now a long shot, the mast is a snug fit in the fitting. so I was able to get a sense of the whole thing.
 

 
and big me checking things out.
 

 
Michael
 
 

It is not actually that difficult to make them
 

 

 
The rubber is bicycle inner tube rubber a little bit if .003" shim-stock folded over the rubber.
 
Michael

It is not actually that difficult to make them
 

 

 
The rubber is bicycle inner tube rubber a little bit if .003" shim-stock folded over the rubber.
 
Michael

It is not actually that difficult to make them
 

 

 
The rubber is bicycle inner tube rubber a little bit if .003" shim-stock folded over the rubber.
 
Michael

It is not actually that difficult to make them
 

 

 
The rubber is bicycle inner tube rubber a little bit if .003" shim-stock folded over the rubber.
 
Michael

Well John putting the bulwark on was tough enough for me. it is amazing what the camera sees that I don't. this is all for now.
 
 
 

 

 

 
Michael
 

WOW!!!!
 
Michael

Doris thank you for taking all the time needed to bring us all up to date.Now we can follow along as you continue to weave your magic with paper and card.
 
Michael

You Know Carl, I told him that! he was bending earlier but he said it was hurting his knee.
 

 
Michael

It is such a joy to watch your model develop Doris.
 
Michael

Harvey Russ, Bob, Elia, Salty, Mark, Overdale, Popeye. Thank you all for your kindness
 
Well because it is snowing pretty hard right now Cricket was definitely out..... so I opted for a test paint of the cover boards and a re-coat on the bulwarks.
 

 
It turned out looking quite reasonable we thought,
 

 
so after it dries we will give it a second coat and see how it looks.
 
Michael
 
 

Harvey Russ, Bob, Elia, Salty, Mark, Overdale, Popeye. Thank you all for your kindness
 
Well because it is snowing pretty hard right now Cricket was definitely out..... so I opted for a test paint of the cover boards and a re-coat on the bulwarks.
 

 
It turned out looking quite reasonable we thought,
 

 
so after it dries we will give it a second coat and see how it looks.
 
Michael
 
 

For cutting wood here are a few shots of how I cut it



This is one of the plywood blades that I use on my 10 inch tablesaw.





The blade has no set to the teeth.





A test cut to set the thickness.





This slice is .027"





Use a push stick to feed the wood through the saw.





This is the thinnest cut I was able to make with this wood and blade combination.





You can see that this wood has been darkened by the blade because it is dull and needs to be sharpened.





Using a scraper to clean up the wood in this case the wood is Maple.









The scaper is pulled towards me in single smooth strokes.





When the scraper is sharp the wood shaves off in fine curls.





Here
you can see the transition from the burned surface to the scraped one
and the small clamp holding the wood to a smooth surface. Make sure that
the support surface stays clear of dust and shavings this is because
the wood this thin has a tendency to curl up allowing dust to stick to
the underside of the slice being scraped and the support because of
static. This would create problems getting an even thickness.





The amount of wood removed with the scraper is about .002"





The finished slice that is .75" wide and .012" thick.





The slice easily bends cold and dry around a 1/2 inch radius former.

   
Michael

It is such a joy to watch your model develop Doris.
 
Michael

Mark yes this is what I have to do I am going to set up a simple way to achieve that so that it is able to be positively incremental, I am working on the design.
 
John yes it is fortunately there are not too many instances where I need the wood quite this thin.
 
Michael

For cutting wood here are a few shots of how I cut it



This is one of the plywood blades that I use on my 10 inch tablesaw.





The blade has no set to the teeth.





A test cut to set the thickness.





This slice is .027"





Use a push stick to feed the wood through the saw.





This is the thinnest cut I was able to make with this wood and blade combination.





You can see that this wood has been darkened by the blade because it is dull and needs to be sharpened.





Using a scraper to clean up the wood in this case the wood is Maple.









The scaper is pulled towards me in single smooth strokes.





When the scraper is sharp the wood shaves off in fine curls.





Here
you can see the transition from the burned surface to the scraped one
and the small clamp holding the wood to a smooth surface. Make sure that
the support surface stays clear of dust and shavings this is because
the wood this thin has a tendency to curl up allowing dust to stick to
the underside of the slice being scraped and the support because of
static. This would create problems getting an even thickness.





The amount of wood removed with the scraper is about .002"





The finished slice that is .75" wide and .012" thick.





The slice easily bends cold and dry around a 1/2 inch radius former.

   
Michael

Doris I have run out of ways to say incredible, fantastic, etc. I am learning so much from your tutorials on the sculpting. I do have a question regarding your gilding.  Is the gilding using gold leaf or a high quality gold paint? or something else? It look like the paper that you are building the scupltures on is the backing paper for the foils am i correct?, if so then the backing paper of something like carpet tape would also work.
 
 
Michael

Thank you for the sculpting Videos Doris, I learned a great deal watching how you developed the horse. You certainly are a talented artist, and thank you for taking the time to set up the videos.
 
Michael

Doris it is great to be following along with this build. Your model building skills are  are amazing and inspirational I am so glad that you are sharing this build with us.
 
Michael