smatsik
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edmay reacted to a post in a topic:
Steel's Naval Architecture
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Steel's Naval Architecture
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Steel's Naval Architecture
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Steel's Naval Architecture
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Steel's Naval Architecture
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Steel's Naval Architecture
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Just a head's up for people like me that have been looking for it for some time. Google Books now has a copy of Steel's Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture available. I don't have a link as I stumbled on it during lunch at work the other day. However, I found it easily with an advanced search. It does not have the plates of ship plans but seems to be otherwise complete. In particular it has the tables of scantlings and body data for all the various sizes of ships. Hoss
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Ships lanterns
smatsik replied to bluenose2's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Les, Just thinking in general terms here, but in that time frame light would be coming from a flame of some type. Coloring a flame in a controlled manner is not easy so I would expect them just put colored glass in front of the flame if they need a colored light. Until solid state lighting developed most colored lights other than the "neon" variety were just colored glass on a regular bulb. So Cook probably did not have access to a colored light separate from the lantern glass. Hoss -
Matrim reacted to a post in a topic:
HBMS Amphion 1798 by Matrim - 32 Gun 18pdr Frigate
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Wayne, You are probably right on that. I always thought the taper was a little extreme too, but was caught in the 1/8 inch on each side thinking. I will probably go with your interpretation from now. Hoss
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
HBMS Amphion 1798 by Matrim - 32 Gun 18pdr Frigate
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HBMS Amphion 1798 by Matrim - 32 Gun 18pdr Frigate
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Wayne, In the 1825 Second Edition I got from Google it is page 9, Section 3. Did you get the 1852 version from Google. I will have to see if I can get it and check for what is different. Sounds like there are a lot of changes. Hoss
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Matrim reacted to a post in a topic:
HBMS Amphion 1798 by Matrim - 32 Gun 18pdr Frigate
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Mark P reacted to a post in a topic:
HBMS Amphion 1798 by Matrim - 32 Gun 18pdr Frigate
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Just catching up on this. I am very impressed with your work and have got a lot of ideas for when I work from old plans. One thought on the taper you can use as a check. Fincham lists keel taper as 1/8 inch per foot on each side in his book from 1825. That is a taper of 1 inch overall every 4 feet so that should give an idea of where the taper should start. At the least it can serve as a sanity check. Hoss
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smatsik reacted to a post in a topic:
Wire Ga size chart
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Starting Solidworks
smatsik replied to AntonyUK's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Antony, I am not sure about Solidworks, but in AutoCAD I would import the scan and then trace it with a spline command. You should be able to do the same thing in Solidworks but I cannot give you the command sequence as my experience with it is about 2 days work on a flat plat we were designing at work. In looking over how to do things I saw what looked like all the commands to do this just never tried it myself. Solidworks looks interesting, particularly the lofted surface to use in defining a hull then intersecting it with a plane to get the curves you need. But as others have said it also has a vicious learning curve. My suggestion is to just play around with it on a simpler project like a ship's boat for a while till you understand how to do things efficiently. Hoss -
Brian, Steel gives a dimension for the sheaves of the blocks as 5 times the rope diameter. I got this from The Elements and Practice of Rigging And Seamanship, page 153. You can find it online at http://www.hnsa.org/doc/steel/. I didn't check but I assume that applies to fixed blocks also. He also has rules for the other parts of the block. You should be able to use this to figure out what you need. Hope this helps. Hoss
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Microlux Tilt Arbor Saw Problems
smatsik replied to capnharv2's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Harvey, How big are the teeth on that blade? I looked up the saw and if I got the right one it is a 3 1/4" diameter blade. At 230 teeth that looks like the teeth are almost the same depth as the blade thickness. I doubt that gives enough to clear the sawdust unless you are feeding very slow. Your blade deformation may be due to forces when the sawdust starts to bind the blade at its rim. I doubt you could cut anything over about 1/16" in a single pass with that blade. Hoss -
Looks good Aldo. I agree with the others. Go ahead and replace the missing bulkhead. It will make things easier in the long run to have the support for the planking. Hoss
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Aldo, Since you are doing POB I have to agree with Mark. You should be able to just fair the bulge away if you are careful and take your time. You don't have to worry about problems with the thickness of the frames which was what had me concerned. It is just a matter of deciding how much extra material you have to remove from the outside. One approach is to test the planking run with battens and then remove material until you get a nice clean run. I would do that before just leaving them out altogether and definitely not scrap the build because of it. This is actually probably not that different from what the original builders did once they had all their frames up. They just smoothed everything out to give a fair run to the hull. I agree with you about the NMM plans probably being distorted. I have noticed some in Gardiner's image. I would assume (a very dangerous thing) that at least some of the distortion is in the original and not in the image. Good luck with this Hoss PS For people building POF I checked my copies of the plans that I downloaded from the old site and it looks like the problem starts at cant frame 26.There is a large difference between the fore and aft faces of this frame. Much more than the others. I have not done any drafting to check but I suspect you can get away with modifying cant frames 26, 27 and 28.
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Aldo, You are probably going to have to decide which plans to follow. I have also noticed some differences between the MSW plans and the NMM plans although I am just going by the image in Gardiner for my NMM plans. The biggest question is whether at this point it is even possible to make your hull agree with the NMM plans. I don't have my things in front of me to check, but it may be that the deviation is too much to sand out. Also remember that unless you left extra wood on the inside of the frames, they will now be too thin in this region. If you have to remove more than about a scale inch or so I suspect it will be very visible in the frame thickness unless you plank both inside and out. Hope this helps you think about the problem some. Hoss
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Walt, Your ton a minute figure corresponds to on the order of 250 gpm. I did not do the figure exact so I could easily be off 50 gpm, but that gives you an idea of the rough value. Hoss
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