shiloh

Mike,
The fewer strands are in your rope, the thinner the rope is. For instance, two stranded rope is slightly thinner then three stranded one, which in turn is slightly thinner than four stranded rope. Of course, some of the bigger (thicker ) ropes on real ships were four stranded ropes like, like anchor ropes, some stays, etc.
 
If you can replace inner core in your model rope from another strand (thread) to a copper wire (some ropewalks let you do it), you can later on manuallly form your rope to look more "authentic" looking, let's say a sagging, loose piece rather than laying stiff and straight on a model, as miniature ropes tend to do.
 
Also, whether right hand twist or left hand twist, depends on what type of rope you intend it to represent. Some types of ropes were right handed and other left handed on real ships. If you care to do it more authentically looking, pay attention! If not, ignore it and make all of them the same. It is your model!  Have fun!  

That's great news!!!!!   

My black holes somehow turned to white holes. Filled until top!
 
Almost
 

Not over engineered, just a generous safety factor, thats good.
jud

Masking tape on the backside of the part helps too.
 
I usually drill closer the the center of the window, then cut diagonally into each corner. That seems the help give it relief when I cut along the lines.

There are also silicone rubbers that resist high temperatures, up to say 450 deg. Celsius. It is possible to cast tin/lead alloy to the forms made of this material. Just google high temperature silicone rubber.
You may consider also using polyuretane resin for your castings. Does not shrink and can be used in normal temperatures. One good supplier is SmoothOn.

Using metal requires heat, how much depends on the material, also you need to determine what the material used shrink rates are and compensate for it in the pattern. Think that most modelers use resin and soft molds. Molding tin would not be difficult to get set up for, might look at some data on the Lost Wax Method, the molds are simpler than sand molds and fit small scale more efficiently. Using sand molds you can pour Iron and brass in large quantities. Someone will be here that casts resin with soft molds that will have some experience to share.
 
Something else you might consider is using Key Stock, I keep it around to cut small parts from, soft and easy to work. With the right size piece of key stock, a file and maybe a fine tooth hack saw, something to hang on to ( leave a handle in the stock you are making your piece from, cut it off as a last step ), and a vice. you can shape something fairly easily.
jud

I have purchased cork gasket material at auto parts and farm supply stores. Might be hard to find today, I have several rolls in the shop but they were bought over 20 years ago. Needed some a while back and found that it had hardened up and became brittle, soaked it in warm water and the cork came back to life. You can get a paper type of gasket material and cut it to size, soak it in water before you use it, makes it soft so it will take the form it needs to make a seal. Might be able to find some "O" rings to fit inside bottle caps.
jud

Ball bearing sounds good. Have heard that storing the paint cans or bottles upside down helps, any seepage dries and seals the remainder, haven't tried it.
jud

Not over engineered, just a generous safety factor, thats good.
jud

Not over engineered, just a generous safety factor, thats good.
jud

Not over engineered, just a generous safety factor, thats good.
jud

Hi Nenad
 
Ain't nothing wrong with "over-engineering "; that's for sure!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Thank you for nice and supporting words, Piet. In my life, I graduated improvisation for many reasons. Also, when I make something, I have a irrational fear that structure will be weak, and usually I made it more stronger and complicated than it has to be. I remember when kids were babies, year 1993. full force of hyperinflation, and no money for anything... we just moved in our semi-finished house, with no furniture. I found some cheap pine lumber and made beds for babies ... thinking ... they will jump on beds ... they had to be very strong ... you just can not have any idea what wooden fortress I have made ... Also, our double bed in sleeping room has hidden metal structure and can withstand  weight of one tone !!!! You can easily hang yourself on any bookshelf I put on walls ... every concrete I have made in and around of house is much stronger than it had to be ... 
 
That is just - me, and my irrational approach   to everything I make/made . This time, transposed to my model
 
Thanks again

I will re-post what I deleted yesterday. The only way I can see to put some meat inside the hull using your existing hole, is to form a thin-walled cup from some flexible rubber type of material. I would try making a form from what you have on hand in the shape of a flat bottomed cone. The idea is that you can insert the rubber cone inside the hull through the existing hull by rolling it up. When you get the cup inside the hull and opened up you will need a way to pull it firmly against the hull, I thought of using 4 o5 small wires placed around the bottom of the cup, long enough to pull the cup against the hull, then bending them over as an anchor, those wire would need to be part of the bundle inserted through the hole. will need adhesive around the lips of the cup to attach it to the inside hull. When the cups are securely in place, fill them with the material of your choice. The coned cups if sized right should provide for a surface contact with the inside of the hull at least 4 times the area of the drilled hole. Roll this around in your mind and put your own ideas into it, then test and do. I have no doubt you will solve your mounting hole problem, you are good at working through things like this.
jud

Ah yeas Nenad, you are not disappointing us, I figured you'd come up with a solution with materials you have on hand.  It's a handicap you'll have to work around and so far you have come up with some brilliant ideas.  My hat off to you and your perseverance.  
Your solution will work just fine, have patience and go slow - you don't have to rush on our account.
 
Cheers,

Here are me again. Couple of days I was pretty quiet, because I have got a little flue, and also there was not visible progress.  Today I can proudly pronounce that my four "black holes" losed their "black" atributes, and have turned in regular holes, with bottom I can reach. Filling is slowly coming to end.
 
 
 
 
I know it Dave, but it needs a time for filling material to dry, and I have to work in thin layers, to avoid danger of leaking glue etc etc through deck planking. Her Majesty is turned upside down, I suppose - a last time in Her life time, and holes are opened to up during filling process. So, put one relative thin layer of material, and must wait for it to dry. And on that way, every day. about hour for four holes. The end is on horizon ...
 
 
Helo Jud, I have readed your post before you deleted it. I used rolled paper sodden with glue cleated to bottom of hole, and covered with thin layer of BBQ strip pieces, with another thin coat of glue. Idea with wire is something valuable to think about. So, bunch of strips rise over time, and now it is only 1-2 cm under hole entrance, so final filling can start
 
 
I was thinking about epoxy, Michael, but I gave up, because I was afraid of leaking through the deck planking. Particularly, I can not find in near shops adequate epoxy. In Belgrade there are not shops like "Hobby-lobby" and another such a type I have read on MSW, there are only a few similar, but with poor choice of such a things, materials tools etc etc ( mainly plastic kits, acrylic, brushes, cheep Chinese scalpels etc etc). So I have to manage with things I have
 
 
 
My idea is similar Denis : to fill hole with material  to the top, when dry and harden, drill through a new hole for 4mm dowel, drill 1-1,5mm hole in dowel, glue dowel in new hole and align it to the surface of hull. And after that mount stand with screw or a new thin dowel, or wire. Just for remind, main problem is balsa 2x5mm strips used for hull planking   
 
 
 
Hello Nils. That was my first idea, and I made some testing with such a solution, but I was scarred of possibility that balsa strips can not withstand direct force. That was a reason I decided to reduce that direct force giving some "meat" to  hold dowel and to distribute direct force from hole entrance to whole "meat" in which dowel will be embedded. Problem is  in fact that I know with whom I am dealing with ... un patience, and awkward Nenad, and I just have to make something strong enough to keep me and my work from - me
 
So, another booooring period is coming to end, and I hope soon to continue with deck stuff challenges

SOS,
 
By anchor winch... can you show a picture?  Maybe give us an era?  Steam or manual?   Modern or old?  

The frame over the stern was used for anchor recovery.  If you have that fitted, there should also be a windlass amidships.
 
John

I will re-post what I deleted yesterday. The only way I can see to put some meat inside the hull using your existing hole, is to form a thin-walled cup from some flexible rubber type of material. I would try making a form from what you have on hand in the shape of a flat bottomed cone. The idea is that you can insert the rubber cone inside the hull through the existing hull by rolling it up. When you get the cup inside the hull and opened up you will need a way to pull it firmly against the hull, I thought of using 4 o5 small wires placed around the bottom of the cup, long enough to pull the cup against the hull, then bending them over as an anchor, those wire would need to be part of the bundle inserted through the hole. will need adhesive around the lips of the cup to attach it to the inside hull. When the cups are securely in place, fill them with the material of your choice. The coned cups if sized right should provide for a surface contact with the inside of the hull at least 4 times the area of the drilled hole. Roll this around in your mind and put your own ideas into it, then test and do. I have no doubt you will solve your mounting hole problem, you are good at working through things like this.
jud

I will re-post what I deleted yesterday. The only way I can see to put some meat inside the hull using your existing hole, is to form a thin-walled cup from some flexible rubber type of material. I would try making a form from what you have on hand in the shape of a flat bottomed cone. The idea is that you can insert the rubber cone inside the hull through the existing hull by rolling it up. When you get the cup inside the hull and opened up you will need a way to pull it firmly against the hull, I thought of using 4 o5 small wires placed around the bottom of the cup, long enough to pull the cup against the hull, then bending them over as an anchor, those wire would need to be part of the bundle inserted through the hole. will need adhesive around the lips of the cup to attach it to the inside hull. When the cups are securely in place, fill them with the material of your choice. The coned cups if sized right should provide for a surface contact with the inside of the hull at least 4 times the area of the drilled hole. Roll this around in your mind and put your own ideas into it, then test and do. I have no doubt you will solve your mounting hole problem, you are good at working through things like this.
jud

Just remembered that there was an old Scroll Saw floating around the shop, don't know where it came from. Knocked the crud off and took some photos, thought someone might be interested. Uses coping saw blades and has a two speed pulley setup. Hooking it up to a power supply and a new table should be all that is needed to put her back to work.

Nenad
 
Thinking about your hull mounting I wonder if a small dowel with a hole through the middle and some hose or tube connected to it like this diagram then if you were to force some epoxy down the tube it would overflow inside and create a large washer like surround. similar to a wall mount in plasterboard.
 

 
Just an Idea.
 
Michael

I will re-post what I deleted yesterday. The only way I can see to put some meat inside the hull using your existing hole, is to form a thin-walled cup from some flexible rubber type of material. I would try making a form from what you have on hand in the shape of a flat bottomed cone. The idea is that you can insert the rubber cone inside the hull through the existing hull by rolling it up. When you get the cup inside the hull and opened up you will need a way to pull it firmly against the hull, I thought of using 4 o5 small wires placed around the bottom of the cup, long enough to pull the cup against the hull, then bending them over as an anchor, those wire would need to be part of the bundle inserted through the hole. will need adhesive around the lips of the cup to attach it to the inside hull. When the cups are securely in place, fill them with the material of your choice. The coned cups if sized right should provide for a surface contact with the inside of the hull at least 4 times the area of the drilled hole. Roll this around in your mind and put your own ideas into it, then test and do. I have no doubt you will solve your mounting hole problem, you are good at working through things like this.
jud

Davey, that is quality planking and the color variation does not detract from that, it seems to enhance the planking, be a shame to paint over that hull below the waterline.
jud