dkuehn

Work on rudder and hinges continues..
 
The rudder has been assembled and sanded to correct shape.
 

 

 
The hinges have been sanded lightly so they can be blackened easier.
 

 

 
Cut and assembled. The will also be soldered a bit to fill out a gap between parts.
 

 

 

 

 
A bit more sanding and soldering a pin as well.. then bath of blackening and ready to be put on rudder.
 

 
Happy modelling.

The horseshoes were installed..
 

 
Then the work on rudder started. The rudder is built from two pieces, they have to be cleaned from laser burns, glued and sanded. Then the rudder covers (two pieces of vaneer) have to be glued on and rudder shaped in the way that the narrowed part is on the bottom..
 

 

 

 
While this is drying, i completed the installation of ship name decoration..
 
First, cut from the frame, sanded it all...
 

 
.. short bath in blackening solution and sanded it all..
 

 
The windows were protected with a piece of transparent tape before the whole hull was painted black. 
 

 
Now, decor will go on by gluing it...
 

 
It will stay for now and dry..
 
Happy modelling.

No worries about gratings, will attack them later. 
 
Continue with skylight assembly. Since they are tiny, i decided to mount them on the piece of tape so it is easier to hold. Then glue them while on the tape..
 

 

 

 
Then to simulate hinges, i cut the small pieces of electrical tape and put them on, following with a layer of varnish to seal the tapes..
 

 
During work on skylight i noticed that companionway roof appears to be a bit out of scale.. Removed it, sanded it, added extra support in the middle and installed a new roof..
 

 

 

 
Now it its time to drill a holes for a pedestal in case i decide not to use a cradle... Two pilot holes are drilled.
 

 
Horseshoe were attacked next. 
 

 
First a bath in blackened solution, rinse and dry...
 

 
Then glue to the ship..
 

 
The holes thru horseshoe are drilled to match the diameter of kit provided wire (0.5mm) i will use to simulate nails..
 
I rounded one end of the nail with a milling bit..
 

 
and the nail looks like this:
 

 
Sorry, not quite focused picture..
 
And mounted on the ship:
 

 
During this process i lost few nails (flew somewhere), but making extras is always a good thing.
 
Happy modelling.
 

Lesson learned.... never blindly trust the instruction sheet.
 
Made gratings based on instruction dimensions, 8x5 holes as per picture below but actual dimension have to be bigger for at least two more holes, like 10x7..
 
Not sure was it because of Alvin Lee's guitar riffs or second glass of great french cognac, i finished all needed gratings but did not bother to check the fitting. During assembly phase noticed they are small... Dough..
 
 

 
I managed to make three new out of the remaining (and salvaged) gratings but it was not enough for the whole ship..
 

 
Now i have to either make my own or try to find somewhere gratings that fits the size...
 
In the meantime continue with other ship parts...
 
Happy modelling..
 

Work continues by building deck items, companionways, etc.....
 

 
Once sides are installed, the whole structure has to be sanded on an angle so the roof can fit properly. 
 

 
There is a gap between deck and sides i will be covering with a small waterways...
 

 
The roof has been installed...
 

 
Work on board pin rails is next. Removed from the frames, they have to be cleaned from laser cut burns...
 

 
Installed on the ship. They fit very precise with a small adjustments here and there..
 

 

 
I have not installed all of them, not sure why... but started to work on gratings. The instruction shows how many gratings are required (8x5, 8x10, etc). 
 
Gently installing them, no hard pushing... There is no problem if you snap one or two, few extras are included in the package.
 

 

 
Cut to the size, and glue them from all ends. 
 

 
 

 
They are ready for final sanding and assembly..
 
Happy modelling.
 
 

And the layer of a satin varnish applied to the whole ship...
 

 

 

 
Leave it dry for a some time and will continue working on deck..
 
Happy modelling.
 

The first layer of golden oak was applied to the whole ship... light sanding and a layer of protection varnish is next...
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Happy modelling.
 

Work continues by installing jumbs around gun ports.. There are three wood pieces in the kit for this purpose but i would use a different one that is a bit more wider so it allow more precise sanding and fitting...
 
Lets start then...
 

 
Measuring, cutting with a guillotine, glue, sand...
 

 
A bit of a sanding after all...
 

 
Happy modelling...

I always buy copies of every original plan there is of each subject. These are the basis for the hull, decks and fittings (where and when shown). For detail that isn't shown on the plans, I have plenty of books for reference - the Anatomy of the Ship Pandora is of great use for this particular development, as this is not much bigger than Sphynx and would share a lot of the details for fittings. The ships stove would be slightly smaller, though, according to the tables in The Arming and Fitting of English Men of War.
 
There are belaying pins, but there seems to be no Mizzen bitts and rail at all for this particular class. Am assuming a pin ring or cleats near the foot of the Mizzen...

good evening everyone
 
 
thats the 1/4 deck supports in, pointy end next,  i am working out if i am brave enough to put all the deck in, im  not quite so detailed as the build on here by @iosto

 

Good evening everyone
 
Day 29 , stbd side upper deck supports
 
God i hope i have done this right
 

Here is the final version of the main gun deck, complete with engraved chequer plating at the stern. This will be fitted to my prototype model and is cut from a scrap piece of veneer, hence the darker than usual colour variations...

I think I am equally as excited for the HMS Sphinx that Chris is working on. 

I think I am equally as excited for the HMS Sphinx that Chris is working on. 

Still in pre-prototype stage, but am now ready to start laser cutting for the actual prototype model, now that I have worked out all essential patterns required. These pics will not reflect the actual model, as the inner bulwarks will be wood, plus there gave been quite a few minor changes to everything...

I think I am equally as excited for the HMS Sphinx that Chris is working on. 

Thanks for the likes!
The depth marks are on it.
Also the butterfly at the stern.....
The Channel parts and deadeyes are also on the ship.
Till next time.
 
 
Sjors

A little bit of a filling is required to make sure all edge lines are as smooth as possible. Here is a need that gap between veneer and wood is filled with a putty and sanded..
 

 
Completed. I use wood putty, Elmer's brand but any will do the trick.
 

 
A bit of the same corrective surgery is needed around windows as well..
 

 
The wale veneer has a bit of a light black shade and it is different than the shade of the rest of black veneer so i decided to paint them in flat black.. Still researching for a decent airbrush-compressor combo (would appreciate feedback from you guys about suggested and good airbrush combo), the painting is done by hand..
There are few spots to correct after but overall satisfied with result. The cap rails were also painted in the same colour.
 

 
Happy modelling.
 

Hello.

I haven't been here for almost two years, but I'm still alive and so is my Victory. As you can see in the photos, I decided to change the concept of the model and make it with the lids closed. I saw a model made in such a way and I liked this „checkerboard pattern” on the the sides so much, that I decided to do it also in my ship. So there will be no visible guns on the two lower decks.
 

 

 
Before painting the model I've made the main, middle and upper wales on the sides.
 

 
In Victory the main wale was put on in „anchor stock” planking. Each plank was fashioned with a double taper from the center of one edge, so that the planks laid side by side looked something like the stock of the anchor (see pict. below)
 

 
The middle wale was put on in similar, but not the same pattern. One edge of the plank was tapered, but insted of the tapers being equal in length one was quite twice length of the other (see pict. below)



Some people may notice, that the shape of the planks I've made on the main wale is slightly different than on the other models. In many models, the main and the middle wale are arranged in the same way, as in the second picture. Various sources give different information about the arrangement of these planks. I made them according to the description given in Longridge's book. Interestingly, on the current ship you will not notice the wales arranged in the so-called anchor stock.
 
To be continued...
 

Good evening everyone, thank you for likes and comments
 
Day 26 deck beam supports
 
i have realised tonight, that there is so much to think about on this build, im not in a hurry to do things that are not in sequence, that might be for two reasons,
1 i dont have anything else to do that is out of sequence, and may be the
2  is the same as the first
i have the next two part to the build, but CAF are resupplying some of it, hopefully will be here this week
 
the point i was trying to make is that im in no hurry to go and make deck fitting or cannons,  mast parts, as i am constantly thinking about the project that is on the go at present, and personally i think it is a good thing for me, lol its the most difficult kit i have ever done, and i aint got to the thinking about bits yet
 
the deck beams on my build  serve two purposes, first to support the deck and also to keep the frames in an upright positions,  hopefully she can then be removed from the frame to enable some sanding to be done
 
as previously mentioned the deck line on the plans is the very top of the deck not the deck supports,  so the beams and deck planking has to be subtracted from the line shown which represent 7.5mm
i had no idea how to put the beams supports in place so i came up with my own idea of using nuts bots and washers, it came in very useful, but very fiddly, i also put lower temp deck supports in (the white beams), to enable, ensuring both side were right, or at least both would be wrong
the bow planks were soaked for a coupls of hours and clamped in place
securing the planks, i never used just wood glue, i have drilled 2mm holes through the beam and frame and and used wooden cocktai sticks with glue on as a very oversized treenail, i will let you know if it works, but seams very secure at present, non of this will be seen

 
 
 
 
 
 

Beautiful work!

I've got the lower shrouds on now, but some life stuff is getting in the way and reducing my building time dramatically. I'll keep pecking away at it. 
 
 

I decided that I should probably set up some kind of "production line" to get the 28 12 pounder carriages built and outfitted per the instructions.
 
Since I have a few spare carriage kits (and am sure Chuck will sell me more) I completed the first as a prototype, less all the outfitting (bolt heads, eyebolts, etc.)
 
Here is my prototype - the cannon is just sitting there but all the carriage elements are glued together.

 

 
 
I used a previously created jig I usually use for holding rigging blocks and such to "bin" the pieces from the laser carry sheets after the laser char has been removed and the axles turned to round.
 
Here is my "production bins" with the other three sets of components from the first set of four.

 
For the quion handle I used a small brass belaying pin with most of the pin cut off. I had to drill a #68 size hole in the back of the quion to fit the belaying pin but it does not have to be very deep. I did not even have to use any glue, at least so far.
 
For those who may not have understood my method for turning the axles round here are some pictures of the square axle in the Dremel handpiece, the same axle after rounding and with the wheel (a rear wheel in this case) on the axle. I used the 180 grit sanding stick to round the axle. It took about 20 seconds of fairly light pressure to get it down enough to fit the wheel.
 

 

There was a problem with the non-MDF sheets and the quality of them. 
 
Amati are currently sorting this out and I expect the replacements to be with me in a few weeks. That should hopefully coincide with my current project ending too.
 
I know what you mean though. Looking forward to getting back the behemoth! 

I've got the lower shrouds on now, but some life stuff is getting in the way and reducing my building time dramatically. I'll keep pecking away at it.