liteflight

Today works :    

Great pictures of the reverse clinker in action.  I can see now one advantage - it makes the upsweep not only possible but rather more straightforward.  There is a lot of overlap on each strake, and plenty of nailing “meat”
I think it makes for a strong and heavy hull, and would be less flexible than the Nordic tradition.
 
And correspondingly, under these circumstances you cannot be lost.
But a Catnav would be handy

Castles to avoid the “bare” look, and possibly a cherry each end?
Or how about the little trumpeters as shown on one of the seals?
 
The whole shipbuilding world is your lobster, until and unless someone finds a wreck, as-built plans or a time machine.
The thought has just come to me that there is probably more information and representations of the toothed sea-monsters available, than about the hulc!

Seaography!  Like it, but the lettering is a bit ephemeral.
I suspect that flumenography comes into it as well as we are discussing a rivermouth, or “os” 
 
I like Steven’s convincing parsing of the Pune, or play on worrrrds.
 
Dick, whatever style of reverse banana you build, it is in danger of becoming the only physical representation of a hulc ( or is it an hulc?) and therefore cited in learned treatiseseses for ever.  If Steven can present evidence from any 3 random planks, you have a golden ( or possibly gloden) opportunity the recreate the hulc and Gift it to Posterity!

Sorry, I am still learning Australian, eh?
THAT type of bodging in the UK involves chewing gum and baling wire, and more recently WD 40 and duct tape
I really like the carved shinners, and appreciate the skin shading you have painted.  They would have some grip on the robands, but it’s a steep climb.
I think that big and strong are not the ideal physical combo for the degasketting crew.  All the photos I have seen have been of slight, young grinning lads.  Dunno if dromons have anchor cables, and therefore need nippers.  But I suspect there would be a small mob of younkers who carry water to the rowers, basically facilitate everything for the crew (and release the gaskets)
Do you know anything about brailing as applied by dromons?
And what is the plural?  Dromonai?

Thanks everybody for the likes, and thanks for the comments, Liteflight.
 
However I need to point out that there's an older meaning for bodging, but even more irrelevant to the present case (I see your pedantry and raise it). In Tudor times a bodger was someone who pulled old garments apart and re-made the fabric into new garments. But I was using the broader Australian meaning mentioned by Banyan above: "to tie a few parts together with fencing wire and you will have a true Aussie creation"
 
The little guys are carved from pear wood from our neighbour's tree, from small branches that have been sitting under the house for a few years. This time I didn't use sawdust and glue - the gunge was (barely) adequate to glue to; in fact its consistency was very similar to that very sawdust and glue that you asked about (Oops! Ended a sentence with a preposition).
 
Here are the three topmen painted and ready to go.
 
 

 
Note that they've taken off their shoes and hose to improve grip as they climb the yard (I do this when I go up on the roof of our house, for the same reason). I've made their legs paler than their hands and faces because they're usually covered so they haven't got tanned. The man in the red tunic is the one with the dodgy leg; it's not perfect but not too bad. I can always tell myself he had a childhood accident and his leg healed crooked. And I've tried a little shading, having been inspired by the soldiers in Old Collingwood's Waterloo diorama.
 
And here they are dry fitted to the yard. I have to furl the sail and hoist it before I can put them in place permanently. Note the shallowness of the sail, which stops it looking too full when furled.
 
  
 
 

 
 
 

 
Now I have to decide whether to remove the 8 oarsmen furthest aft and put their oars in storage along the benches - because the original idea was that those would be the guys pulling on the halyard and unfurling the sail, so their benches should be empty.  Otherwise there are extra crew members who only work when under sail, and I can't see them doing that when there are plenty of big strong men pulling the oars who could be temporarily re-purposed.
 
 

Just had to make sure they were decent, with those skirts tucked up like that. And to answer the question "was anything worn under the tunic?" the answer is of course "No, everything's in perfect working order!"

Seaography!  Like it, but the lettering is a bit ephemeral.
I suspect that flumenography comes into it as well as we are discussing a rivermouth, or “os” 
 
I like Steven’s convincing parsing of the Pune, or play on worrrrds.
 
Dick, whatever style of reverse banana you build, it is in danger of becoming the only physical representation of a hulc ( or is it an hulc?) and therefore cited in learned treatiseseses for ever.  If Steven can present evidence from any 3 random planks, you have a golden ( or possibly gloden) opportunity the recreate the hulc and Gift it to Posterity!

I like your Tamiya paint console, great setup
 
And you have figured out the vestigial instructions👍, well done
She will be great as a motorised craft- and you can follow up with a gondola or two, singing in a throaty baritone
 
note:  Excellent builders are forbidden to build gondolas, cos they are extravagantly bent!  This is naturally so that they travel straight.  A gondola with straight keel would go in tight circles to port.

I am interested in the concept of reverse clinker, and agog to find out what the advantages might be.
I read the article on the patia, and definitely learned several new things.

The section of a patia showing the reverse and normal clinker is interesting- the reverse clinker strakes are /appear to be well overlapped, so that it has elements of 
the a sandwich method of building and must make for a robust hull
 
Meanwhile, back at the plot.  At some future time you are going to construct a banana to the likely recipe, having regard to all the archeological, pictorial and sigillographic evidence. ( the latter evidence agrees uniformly that the hulk Fits neatly in a circle and seems to have shrouds spaced evenly down the whole length of the hull(c))
 
Since I had never heard of a hulc as a type of ship, there is nothing I can contribute apart from my support, admiration of your frumiousness and the suggestion that the building should probably be carried out with a no11 vorpal.
 

I feel that I should point out that your remediation was not technically bodging, as that profession works with green timber. 
But we know what you mean, and I am being pedantic
Did the repair involve sawdust and glue?

Wonderful, Louie!
Very glad you decided to carve the active men in the rig - they are shaking out the furl and loosing the gaskets, I expect.
Well carved.  I expect that you mentioned the wood you are using.  It looks home cut and dried.
 Pity about the ankle; but I realise that if it was all easy it would not need your talents

I am interested in the concept of reverse clinker, and agog to find out what the advantages might be.
I read the article on the patia, and definitely learned several new things.

The section of a patia showing the reverse and normal clinker is interesting- the reverse clinker strakes are /appear to be well overlapped, so that it has elements of 
the a sandwich method of building and must make for a robust hull
 
Meanwhile, back at the plot.  At some future time you are going to construct a banana to the likely recipe, having regard to all the archeological, pictorial and sigillographic evidence. ( the latter evidence agrees uniformly that the hulk Fits neatly in a circle and seems to have shrouds spaced evenly down the whole length of the hull(c))
 
Since I had never heard of a hulc as a type of ship, there is nothing I can contribute apart from my support, admiration of your frumiousness and the suggestion that the building should probably be carried out with a no11 vorpal.
 

I like your Tamiya paint console, great setup
 
And you have figured out the vestigial instructions👍, well done
She will be great as a motorised craft- and you can follow up with a gondola or two, singing in a throaty baritone
 
note:  Excellent builders are forbidden to build gondolas, cos they are extravagantly bent!  This is naturally so that they travel straight.  A gondola with straight keel would go in tight circles to port.

Thanks everybody for the likes and particularly to mrcc for the nice comment.
 
More progress. I've been working on the robands - fixing the sails to the yards:
 

 
 

 
 

 
Note: in the picture above what looks like a break in the yard is actually just a bit of darker grain.
 
I got about half way then happened to compare what I'd done with a photo of an actual lateen rigged vessel of about the same size as the dromon in real life and realised I had the robands about twice as close together as they should have been.
 

 
So I removed every second one. As I was about halfway through, for the same amount of work if I'd had the spacing correct I would have had all the robands done. (sigh)
 

 
And all complete! And I've started furling one of the sails, the only way I know how, by clamping everything and gradually adding the gaskets.
 

 
The other thing I've been working on is carving three figures to go up on the fore yard, unfurling the sail so the oarsmen can have a break. (there's a nice breeze coming from aft)
 

 
      
 
       
 
 
      
 
 

 
   
 
Unfortunately there was a really nasty knot right in line with the left leg of the last guy, and his foot broke off, with a section more like gunge than wood at his ankle. I had to do a lot of bodging to get it to work halfway decently.
 
      
 
More to follow as I get more done . . .
 
 

I live, I learn.
I was aware of the Viking love of making a good impression; my observations were mainly that Sihtric had just leaped out of Eric the Masterbuilder's Drakkar after a sea journey of several days and could be expected to be a little on the grey side of skin colour,
I suspect, too that working and rowing on a ship made for inherent grubbiness, as tar, fish oil, lanolin and other pungent substances were everywhere.
 
Like his helmet and bootees!
 
As an aside, I have sailed a Thames Barge (Ironsides) in the week after the sails had been "dressed" with the red substance which characterises the "red fleet".  Mentionable constituents of the dressing are Red Ochre, fish oil, urine (traditionally horse). 
You might be amazed to hear that the dressing transfers itself to halliards, sheets, stays, crew, crew's vehicles, crew's families, etc.  

I should have said - the Matt black basecoat is a spraycan called Chaos Black, and gives a perfectly even basis for painting- all t’other paints are little pots, and they all have fairly silly names!
I love the crouched posture of the basic warrior. Very dynamic.  
You could coordinate the shield colours with the ship?

Happy Birthday, Eric, and many more of them!
 
I take your point about the accuracy of the strakes as laser-cut.  But as you say it could be a gradual accumulation of tolerances till it makes itself known loudly
 
 Great birthday presents- the wee warriors will be a fun paint job.  My son used to paint Warhammer figures, and I learned a couple of things:
 spray everything Matt black to begin (after, of course, washing them down to remove release agent) 
and
The paints sold by Games Workshop are excellent quality acrylics, but not cheap

I feel that the book should include Oak in the title!

Eric
I realise that I am not sure of the strake numbers, but here goes anyway

I think that the aft end of the problem strake needs to move (in this position) down to establish the right overlap with the darker, redder strake below it, and the end needs to pivot somewhere near the place I have marked
I think that would fill the gap with the next pair of strakes
I hope this suggestion might help
 
What adhesive have you used for planking - if it is any of the carpentry glues the strakes can be removed with a hot iron.  NOT the household Iron unless you have a deeply understanding Admiral.
 
 
 

I like your Tamiya paint console, great setup
 
And you have figured out the vestigial instructions👍, well done
She will be great as a motorised craft- and you can follow up with a gondola or two, singing in a throaty baritone
 
note:  Excellent builders are forbidden to build gondolas, cos they are extravagantly bent!  This is naturally so that they travel straight.  A gondola with straight keel would go in tight circles to port.

I like your Tamiya paint console, great setup
 
And you have figured out the vestigial instructions👍, well done
She will be great as a motorised craft- and you can follow up with a gondola or two, singing in a throaty baritone
 
note:  Excellent builders are forbidden to build gondolas, cos they are extravagantly bent!  This is naturally so that they travel straight.  A gondola with straight keel would go in tight circles to port.

Fair enough, Andrew, no arguments there. Except for the Masterbuilder part, this one's not ending up on any calendars.

I live, I learn.
I was aware of the Viking love of making a good impression; my observations were mainly that Sihtric had just leaped out of Eric the Masterbuilder's Drakkar after a sea journey of several days and could be expected to be a little on the grey side of skin colour,
I suspect, too that working and rowing on a ship made for inherent grubbiness, as tar, fish oil, lanolin and other pungent substances were everywhere.
 
Like his helmet and bootees!
 
As an aside, I have sailed a Thames Barge (Ironsides) in the week after the sails had been "dressed" with the red substance which characterises the "red fleet".  Mentionable constituents of the dressing are Red Ochre, fish oil, urine (traditionally horse). 
You might be amazed to hear that the dressing transfers itself to halliards, sheets, stays, crew, crew's vehicles, crew's families, etc.  

The road to Hell (should probably be calling it Hel in posts about a Viking ship) is indeed paved with good intentions.
 
This post, much delayed by family business, is about more preparation to plank.
 
I got to thinking about joining the two halves of each strake, and a method of making repeatable scarf joints - ideally I will have a couple of "rivets" through each joint, but that will emphasise that there are very few strake joints in a large and long ship.  To be considered.
 
I have a Microlux palm belt sander, and its "dock" so I proposed to make up a jig for the correct angle of scarf, and thus produce repeatable, neat joints.
 
The little belt sander, with the jigsaw and drill in the same series were wonderful presents from my Admiral, who positively encourages me to build boats, planes, anything.  They are useful little tools, running on 12 to 18VDC. 
The variable speed drive (VSD) for the whole range of Microlux tools naturally runs only on 110VAC as it is sold by MicroMark in the US.  The VSD, is in fact German made , so the original was probably 240V, or more likely dual voltage.  It always seems sad and a little ironic that a lot of natural flexibility is lost when US companies sell them as 110V only.
I'm an engineer - I have a large 240/110 transformer to power the Micromark gadgets (I have their Table Saw as well,  Japanese manufacture and 110V only).
 
So with a little fitting and fettling, I have a scarfing jig which sands a 23 degree angle on the ends of strakes
 

This is the Microlux belt sander in its dock

 
Wooden part slides towards belt, guided by three bamboo pegs in the slots in the baseplate
Well, I tried the contraption with 1.5mm obechi, and found that the belt was nothing like vertical, so a little packing of the recess that the sander fits into took care of that.
It was noticeable that the belt was not running smoothly, so I took it off to investigate
2 evident problems:
Nylon idler wheels each had a large "pip" standing up on the surface - looked like the injection gate, but who in their right mind would put an injection gate on the running surface of a wheel?  Cut off and dressed down. The abrasive of the belt is joined by a long scarf and held together by thick, strong adhesive tape.  This thumps each time it crosses the pressure plate whether you are sanding or not - I'm still thinking about that and a solution for it So with the belt running as smoothly as possible, the jig produces a square and reliable 23 degree scarf.
 
Why 23 degrees?  I hear you ask.  Well I am aiming at a similar scarf length that I have seen in many builds of replica Viking boats, and they seem to vary between 1:1 (length of scarf to thickness of strake) to 2:1.  I choose 2:1 and for that the angle is arctan 0.5 which is 23.5 degrees, give or take a milliwig.
 
It is also very close to the earth's inclination from the normal to the ecliptic plane.  Hence the Tropics are at Lat +/- 23Degrees 16'. 
Must be some cosmic significance there, but it escapes me for the moment.
 
Each of the stakes is supplied as two halves, hence the entire Garboard Strake is 4 pieces of preshaped ply in total.
And
For reasons of economy, they are cut as part of 4 identical ply sheets
So
Two parts will be this way up, and two will be t'other way up
Logical
But the T'other side carries considerable laser splash from the honeycomb that the sheet is supported on
 
 

So a little sanding is called for before being in all respects ready for action.
 
So:  I'm ready to strake
"Let the wild rumpus commence"  

I live, I learn.
I was aware of the Viking love of making a good impression; my observations were mainly that Sihtric had just leaped out of Eric the Masterbuilder's Drakkar after a sea journey of several days and could be expected to be a little on the grey side of skin colour,
I suspect, too that working and rowing on a ship made for inherent grubbiness, as tar, fish oil, lanolin and other pungent substances were everywhere.
 
Like his helmet and bootees!
 
As an aside, I have sailed a Thames Barge (Ironsides) in the week after the sails had been "dressed" with the red substance which characterises the "red fleet".  Mentionable constituents of the dressing are Red Ochre, fish oil, urine (traditionally horse). 
You might be amazed to hear that the dressing transfers itself to halliards, sheets, stays, crew, crew's vehicles, crew's families, etc.