liteflight

Came across this while scanning the general news
 
https://www.livescience.com/medieval-cargo-ship-estonia
 
First  picture in the article seems to me to show thwartship beams passing through the sides, and generally the parts pictured seem to be complete and intact.  Interesting to see how the investigation proceeds
 
andrew

Came across this while scanning the general news
 
https://www.livescience.com/medieval-cargo-ship-estonia
 
First  picture in the article seems to me to show thwartship beams passing through the sides, and generally the parts pictured seem to be complete and intact.  Interesting to see how the investigation proceeds
 
andrew

Log #24: The Margin Planks
After trying and failing to cut the margin planks out of a larger sheet of boxwood (I kept having issues getting the curve exactly right and breaking it). I decided instead to just edge bend strips from the kit.
 
Since none of the strips were long enough I made the somewhat dubious decision to do them in three pieces and cut scaraf joints for where they met. After a bunch of trial and error I came up with a reasonable method for doing so.
Mark the total length of the joint (A) and cut off the extra (this will be the end of the joint.
Draw a line from each of points (B) to the opposite corner (you will end up with two parallel lines “C”).
Mark the midpoint of the joint (dashed line) and draw a line connecting the two lines you just drew perpendicular to both of them with the midpoint of this line crossing the midpoint of the joint (D).
Then cut away the shaded section.

 
And this was the result:

 
For the connecting plank, I then made small adjustments with a file to make sure it fit. This worked out better in some cases than others.

 
I started at the bow and then left the planks that but up against the stern a bit too long to adjust when I did the final gluing. This was because it was hard to tell exactly how long they should be once everything was glued in place and to give myself margin for error I left the least complicated end of the margin planks to be adjusted at the ends.

 
And this was the result. Just like with the hull I forgot to check the thickness of the strips before I started using them and so had to correct some issues at one of the joints where one stip was much thicker than the other, but all in all I think it turned out ok.

Thanks Steven, I have now!  Thank you for that.
 
Warm thanks, too, to everyone who contacted me with messages of sympathy and support.  Much appreciated and very valuable to me at a difficult time.
 
So, as I was saying.......
I have reviewed Oseberg as she is and I find good news and less good news.
I had commenced the clinker planking, having decided that “my” overlap would be a thick 1mm
Easy decision, but how do I do that precisely and repeatable?
+
   
the current state of play:  both garboard strakes fitted with scarf joint between the two ( precut) parts of each strake
(just for reference, the clamps are  merely parked where they are)


i have added a second full strake on one side, using a method which I have not seen before, so probably worth describing ( even if only to give you a larf)
I aimed to scribe my fat 1mm overlap on the garboard strake.  
 
First attempt was using compasses, of which as a former Engineer I have a modest plethora.  None of them were designed to work or be rigid with a 1 mm gap.
Most were designed to use a lead about 2.5 mm dia, sharpened to a chisel point by arcane methods known (only) to draughtspeople.  However sharp the lead it gave a bad result!
 
I then remembered cutting thin styrene sheet using a hard pin pushed through a balsa sheet with a ply edge guide.
So postage stamp size bit if hard 1/8 balsa with a length of thin ply sticking down 2mm to slide along the edge of the plank to be marked.  
Lay it on its back and put a strip of fat 1mm width against the shoulder.  
Push pin through touching the strip
replace pin with 0.5mm drawing pencil lead and adjust till it barely protrudes ( or if you prefer - till it sticks out a wee bit)
Viola! You have a cunning device which marks a fat 1mm from an edge
 
And yes, it works only when the curvature of the edge is very gentle.
And also yes, this concept can be developed to work with sharper curves, both concave and convex - but no need here.
 
So the  edges of both garboard strakes are clearly marked with the overlap.
A cardinal principle of my build is that I don’t want glue anywhere but in a joint, because it would require clean-up.  IMHO even a careful clean up of a wood glue is likely to afffect any subsequent finish, so I aim to avoid that by removing the possibility of glue being squooged out of joints.
 
My strakes will be fixed by heat-activated wood glue.
I believe  it would be helpful to know Exactly where the glue is, so I mixed acrylic paint with  neat PVA wood glue ( I seem to remember it was an umber)

Like this
 
i had masked to the pencil line with fine masking tape and applied two coats of the coloured glue
 
Reason for that type of colour - the future holds dark staining of some sort - and any accidents of a generally wood-like hue should be unobtrusive.
 
The less good news
On careful inspection, I found that a part of the glued strake is not stuck.  
I’m not downcast, however because:
I activated the heat sensitive adhesive with a full size family steam iron I cannot be sure that these areas were ever stuck - this was nearly 18 months ago. I have since been given not one, but two neat little devices intended for applying delicate heat shrink film to model aircraft ( airplanes to American friends) photos to follow Please feel free to guide me in matters of technique or writing style.  
I have written at length in this post to catch up with where the ship sits today, and because the PVA/ acrylic ( or watercolour) trick may help someone else.
 
andrew

Steven i have two lots of deadeyes totalling about 250 so far. The sides are a bit straighter than the previous ones but not completely straight. I found they didnt print very well unless i added a bit of meat around the holes. I have made the ends a lot tighter as you wanted as well. I reckon if i print this amount again it should give you enough to complete your task . I should have them finished on monday for you.
 
regards
 
Paul

ALL the right-handed scissors are Evil.
 
I would consign them to the drawer dedicated to Anoia, patron Goddess of unidentified utensils which jam drawers, but I can’t get it open.  ;-{

ALL the right-handed scissors are Evil.
 
I would consign them to the drawer dedicated to Anoia, patron Goddess of unidentified utensils which jam drawers, but I can’t get it open.  ;-{

Thank you, YV.  I am familiar with Ben’s Flower class ( via your build log) but the Castle class is new to me
 
Looks  promising , and make a fantastic model.
 
slight snagette - I am a 3-D print virgin, but willing to learn
andrew
 
ps.  An even bigger hurdle is that I am a lifelong adherent to the build methods of Glyn Guest and my preferred material is a tropical Hardwood, Ochroma Pyramidalis.

Beautiful miniature masterpiece, Greg
 
A lesson in realistic painting and weathering
 
One of these is on my build list as an r/c model - and I have visited HMAS Castlemaine.  Hats off to the crews who lived and fought in these little terriers of the sea
andrew
 

Thank you, YV.  I am familiar with Ben’s Flower class ( via your build log) but the Castle class is new to me
 
Looks  promising , and make a fantastic model.
 
slight snagette - I am a 3-D print virgin, but willing to learn
andrew
 
ps.  An even bigger hurdle is that I am a lifelong adherent to the build methods of Glyn Guest and my preferred material is a tropical Hardwood, Ochroma Pyramidalis.

Beautiful miniature masterpiece, Greg
 
A lesson in realistic painting and weathering
 
One of these is on my build list as an r/c model - and I have visited HMAS Castlemaine.  Hats off to the crews who lived and fought in these little terriers of the sea
andrew
 

Thank you, YV.  I am familiar with Ben’s Flower class ( via your build log) but the Castle class is new to me
 
Looks  promising , and make a fantastic model.
 
slight snagette - I am a 3-D print virgin, but willing to learn
andrew
 
ps.  An even bigger hurdle is that I am a lifelong adherent to the build methods of Glyn Guest and my preferred material is a tropical Hardwood, Ochroma Pyramidalis.

Thank you, YV.  I am familiar with Ben’s Flower class ( via your build log) but the Castle class is new to me
 
Looks  promising , and make a fantastic model.
 
slight snagette - I am a 3-D print virgin, but willing to learn
andrew
 
ps.  An even bigger hurdle is that I am a lifelong adherent to the build methods of Glyn Guest and my preferred material is a tropical Hardwood, Ochroma Pyramidalis.

Beautiful miniature masterpiece, Greg
 
A lesson in realistic painting and weathering
 
One of these is on my build list as an r/c model - and I have visited HMAS Castlemaine.  Hats off to the crews who lived and fought in these little terriers of the sea
andrew
 

Thank you, YV.  I am familiar with Ben’s Flower class ( via your build log) but the Castle class is new to me
 
Looks  promising , and make a fantastic model.
 
slight snagette - I am a 3-D print virgin, but willing to learn
andrew
 
ps.  An even bigger hurdle is that I am a lifelong adherent to the build methods of Glyn Guest and my preferred material is a tropical Hardwood, Ochroma Pyramidalis.

Beautiful miniature masterpiece, Greg
 
A lesson in realistic painting and weathering
 
One of these is on my build list as an r/c model - and I have visited HMAS Castlemaine.  Hats off to the crews who lived and fought in these little terriers of the sea
andrew
 

Beautiful miniature masterpiece, Greg
 
A lesson in realistic painting and weathering
 
One of these is on my build list as an r/c model - and I have visited HMAS Castlemaine.  Hats off to the crews who lived and fought in these little terriers of the sea
andrew
 

Beautiful miniature masterpiece, Greg
 
A lesson in realistic painting and weathering
 
One of these is on my build list as an r/c model - and I have visited HMAS Castlemaine.  Hats off to the crews who lived and fought in these little terriers of the sea
andrew
 

Reread the shroud saga!
 
Reminded myself how small these bastards devices are!
 
Snippet of info that may help you or other threaders of gnats eyes:  fly tying thread is not round but flattish with many near-parallel strands with a slow helix (for good and sufficient fly-tying reasons).  It therefore can be split into thinner strands.
 
This info from https://www.bottledshipbuilder.com/topic/393-fly-tying-thread-for-rigging/
BTW - there is a staggering amount of info about the small side of model shipbuilding which we all might find interesting in the forums
 
I have some fly thread - again the thinnest that was available at a local shop called "the compleat angler" about 5 minutes from me.  They are probably still laughing on finding out the intended uses of the materials I buy
 
I'll have a wee keek at the fly thread and see if I can split it - I'm intrigued now
 andrew
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Steven
Paxolin, also known as Tufnol ( both trade names).  It’s Sunday name is SRBP ( synthetic resin bonded paper).  Resin is phenolic, and it’s equally strong in all directions at right angles to the sheet ( what we need for dead eyes
its stronger brother SPBF (Tufnol Carp) is the same resin bonded into cotton fabric - even stronger and tougher
 
they all seem to be available in Aus from electrical and gasket suppliers, 0.5 mm to 75 mm thick 
https://agaus.com.au/?s=Srbf
https://au.rs-online.com/web/b/tufnol-/
 
I should go back and see what thickness you are using.  Tufnol  sheet goes down to 0.4 mm and I would guess you are using something like 1mm, or 40thou to its friends.
 
 Birch!  I was speaking of my favourite birch ply!  0.4 mm thick 3-ply.  A couple of laminations of that and little matters like “grain” and “ tearing” are history
Best way to make the lanyard holes would be laser - I have found many places in Melbourne who will laser cut from a program ( or drawing) and will supply material or use yours.  They might bilk ( or balk) at phenolic because of the fume properties.  Birch ply cuts beautifully, so they could nest many deadeyes and spares and cut them in one pass
 
Sadly my flying buddy with a CO2 laser died last year or I would offer to get them made as a trial
 
andrew

Steven
Paxolin, also known as Tufnol ( both trade names).  It’s Sunday name is SRBP ( synthetic resin bonded paper).  Resin is phenolic, and it’s equally strong in all directions at right angles to the sheet ( what we need for dead eyes
its stronger brother SPBF (Tufnol Carp) is the same resin bonded into cotton fabric - even stronger and tougher
 
they all seem to be available in Aus from electrical and gasket suppliers, 0.5 mm to 75 mm thick 
https://agaus.com.au/?s=Srbf
https://au.rs-online.com/web/b/tufnol-/
 
I should go back and see what thickness you are using.  Tufnol  sheet goes down to 0.4 mm and I would guess you are using something like 1mm, or 40thou to its friends.
 
 Birch!  I was speaking of my favourite birch ply!  0.4 mm thick 3-ply.  A couple of laminations of that and little matters like “grain” and “ tearing” are history
Best way to make the lanyard holes would be laser - I have found many places in Melbourne who will laser cut from a program ( or drawing) and will supply material or use yours.  They might bilk ( or balk) at phenolic because of the fume properties.  Birch ply cuts beautifully, so they could nest many deadeyes and spares and cut them in one pass
 
Sadly my flying buddy with a CO2 laser died last year or I would offer to get them made as a trial
 
andrew

Hi, Akrypto
 
Does that make your father a marine, or is that not what happens in the RAN?
 
I’m enjoying your build and your style in relating it.  I shall be sitting in and consuming the Lamingtons
 
andrew

I love the ethos on MSW: if it’s not good enough - repeat till (the builder) satisfied
 
Steven, you might consider using thin Paxolin (resin-bonded paper or cloth). Very strong and won’t do the splitting that wood is prone to.
 Bonus - it’s not too far from wood colour!
Disadvantage:  smell of phenolic resin when drilling
alternative: thin birch ply (0.4mm) maybe in two laminations depending on the thickness required
i make small holes in this ply with a needle - sometimes a hot needle
 
Both materials would laser-cut easily, toooo
 
andrew

Stop press:
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I love the ethos on MSW: if it’s not good enough - repeat till (the builder) satisfied
 
Steven, you might consider using thin Paxolin (resin-bonded paper or cloth). Very strong and won’t do the splitting that wood is prone to.
 Bonus - it’s not too far from wood colour!
Disadvantage:  smell of phenolic resin when drilling
alternative: thin birch ply (0.4mm) maybe in two laminations depending on the thickness required
i make small holes in this ply with a needle - sometimes a hot needle
 
Both materials would laser-cut easily, toooo
 
andrew

Stop press:
Activity detected at Viking Shipyard!
blog creaks into action
 
 

I love the ethos on MSW: if it’s not good enough - repeat till (the builder) satisfied
 
Steven, you might consider using thin Paxolin (resin-bonded paper or cloth). Very strong and won’t do the splitting that wood is prone to.
 Bonus - it’s not too far from wood colour!
Disadvantage:  smell of phenolic resin when drilling
alternative: thin birch ply (0.4mm) maybe in two laminations depending on the thickness required
i make small holes in this ply with a needle - sometimes a hot needle
 
Both materials would laser-cut easily, toooo
 
andrew

Stop press:
Activity detected at Viking Shipyard!
blog creaks into action