Francesca

I forgot! After glued the glass in the windows (transparent acetate), I made curtains with opaque engineers paper.

Then, on the upper deck and on the low deck, I added the passengers sitting on benches and standing.

The rudder control mechanism (not working), the rudder will be operating below deck.

Soon I will tell you something about the lighting with leds builded  to have no cables and connectors between the hull and the removable upper deck.

Bye

Francesca

Thanks, Mark. Yes indeed, at pages 1 and 2 of this topic, you can see all 

Francesca

I'm here   Sorry for silence, but I did very busy last times…   

Realization of stern benches

Realization of metal uprights between the lower bridge and the upper, obtained with brass wire of 1.5 mm. on which I soldered the steel wire provided by the kit, all painted in matt white. The uprights are glued only on the lower side to permit removal of the upper part.

Finally, I painted all in white matte spray.

I, then, fix the guardrail bow: as mentioned above, provided by the candlesticks in white metal kits were truly horrendous and fragile, so I replaced them with others of the same size that I already had, in turned brass (when I can, I buy in low price inventory of accessories that can always serve ...); the wire passing from the kit supplied is 0.5 mm spring steel and I did not like because there was no way to straighten it: I replaced it with a 0.5 mm brass wire, straightened by pulling with forceps by a solid bench clamp. Candlesticks and thread were painted before laying, with spray white opaque. The whole was then glued into the holes with cyanoacrylate (superglue).

Other picts...

Lighting...

We feel after the next post, thanks all you 

Realiz

You're doing a lovely job on her, Francesca!

 

John

Thanks very much, friends! But I would see also critical comments: it's very important for increase and improve 

Hallo  ! Finished the interior of the cabin with wooden benches, the glass in the windows with acetate, curtains with tracing paper and red pencil for finish. I tried people sitting inside (from China...).

At this point I gave up, for now, the construction of the upper deck and started the construction of the lower deck.

Shelves that overhang the sides: in the kit are pre-cut to laser plywood  1 mm., Also of rectangular holes which are used to fix them in place on the teeth that protrude from the sides. I do not like all that  because the joints are seen  .

So, I reconstructed them with a walnut strip curved with a hot iron 

It 's time to paint the hull. After protecting the topsides and all over the top, including the bridge with tapes and newspapers, I gave a first-hand live on the work of red satin enamel rust, diluted with white spirit. Everything with brush.

I go head in my bad english  ,but I'm happy because I can see you understand.

So, now I built the planks of the lower deck with walnut strips (not in the kit). First I painted the inside bulwarks, after finding a pict on the web.

I covered all lower decks with walnut strips.

All for today 

I decided to proceed with the lower deck  previously prepared. I had already arranged on the deck, not only the cabin access , but also the opening for access to the rudder horn. On the deck, near the rudder horn, there is an upside that in the original project must be glued. Obviously I don't glued, because the compartment must be inspected. So I inserted neodymium chinese magnets very powerful but microscopic (6mm dia. X 2 mm. thick) to easily open and close this compartment.

At this point, check the openings, confirming that everything fits well, I glued the aft deck.

Ciao for today 

I go ahead quickly because I started this model several months ago and are far ahead in building.

Now is the time to make the glass portholes: I cut 12 pieces of wooden rod with a diameter equal to the inner diameter of the portholes and prepared suitable holes in a piece of foam, surplus of previous work (but would be fine also a piece of wood or of any material not tough and easy to be drilled). This it will serve as the support for the rods of wood which, in turn, will support section to hold vertically the portholes.

I smeared on the well-polished wooden rods Teflon grease (okay, however, any type of fat) and tucked portholes.

 

 

After that, the tip of the portholes I filled with epoxy resin and, subsequently, pulled a little 'back the rods of wood, so that the resin is lowered, forming a slide convex. This will serve me then, during the coating phase, to tuck it in a ball of paper or other material to protect it from paint.

 

 

When the resin has polymerized almost, I extracted with ease rods of wood and ... voila! Portholes with their slides transparent wire side are ready to be inserted and glued in place.

 

 

 

Now: first coat of gray primer.

At this point I started to prepare the lower deck. Obviously the kit plan to paste the bridge as it is provided all glued without any opening. But having to build model RC, I created an opening at the cab and I cut the back end to access the rudder horn.

Positioning the lower deck aft, I realized that a mistake made earlier: the opening of the cabin does not allow access to the servo steering, too small opening. So I moved the servo much further back, near the motor and I had to redo his support. Now everything should be ok.

Good nigh, for me is deep night, I go sleep 

Making an RC boat out of a static boat is always a challenge.  You are doing fine.  Your electronic package looks good. 

 

Bob

Thanks Bob, I hope so because I have already experienced this configuration on other models.

I hope you enjoy this build as much as I did on mine.

Hi, burnside, I saw your topic and I appreciate your building that was very useful to me. But I think that Nordic Class was powerful in the faithful reproduction so I have to add details that are not in the kit. Besides that I have to invent solutions for RC 

very nice and tidy work Francesca !

 

for the stern bulwark planking I usualy do vertical planking to have a homogen material throughout the hull, but you had a smart idea 

 

Nils

Yes, right, Nils, me too sometime I used this method but this time I forgot...

Thanks to everybody  for the kind words  .

I emptied the ordinates  to lighten the weight an also to allow the passages of cables and linkages.

Then, after building a structure, I started laying the planking with strips of basswood.

At this point, I realized that at the stern, in order to glue the strips , I had to stick the side of the stern. In the kit is 1,5 mm. plywood. I kept it in water overnight and, the next day, when I tried to bend it gently (the curve is very strong), it broke immediately!   So I decided to use another material: polystyrene that  bends very easily.

After I proceeded with the planking.

I'll try to post my work in progress of my RC Mariefred from Nordic Class Boats. It's a kit declared as Rc running. But it is not so. 

Forgive the mistakes in English, if you prefer, I speak in italian language, let me know...

But important above all is picts and picts ands yours comments and suggestions!

Good