clogger

Just a quick note to say how much I admire your build log.  Excellent detail followed by excellent photos. Very inspiring, and sets a very high standard.

One side of the ports done

Thanks, I might send a PM later.
With the milling, how are you judging the depth each time, do you have a setdepth guage, or are you scrbing lines first with a sharp knife?

Hi No Idea
For Le Rochefort
I'm confused as to which lines to follow when it comes to cutting out the fore and after frames, particularly for the frames 2,3(Ivar),4,5 and 25,29(IVar) and 30 which have timbers that pass beyond the line of the framework. 
Which frame is taller than the other frame? The foreframe or stern frame?
From the photo attached the frames 2-5 the upper timbers vary fore and aft.
I know solid lines represent one half, and dotted lines represent the other half, but it still seems very confusing at the upper ends of the framexplains.  Obviously the dotted lines also represent ares to be shaved back for flaring.  I've attached a photo to try to illustrate my point.

now that the Endeavour is finished it might be time to do some cleaning and maintenance on the old Victory I built 35 years ago

Today I finished fitting the third boat, the yawl, onto the "booms". I am not going to attempt to make Bank's skiff, too hard. So effectively its finally finished after 13 and a half years since I started. I must admit I haven't spent a lot of time on her the past few years, just doing bits and pieces when time permitted. I have been a bit controversial over the years, not following that single source - the AOTS, instead I have researched many other different sources of information.

A temporary 'final' resting place in the music room. Now I can play my piano watched over by HMB Endeavour.
She has been fitted with binnacles and swivel guns......now I need to make a less-rudimentary stand for her.
Good to have completed a project 😎
 
Pat
 
 

Did you guys find it extremely hard working in a shop while the weather is nice and sunny? I don't have an option to open shop doors so have to make a choice...
A bit of a progress... corrected position of few keel parts to follow the wood grans as best as possible.. still don't like G1 position...will make another copy of that part and glue it differently, then will cut both parts and see how they work..
 

 
Few frames were glued to the board.... first adding glue to the paper frame part and put them on the board, second picture is adding a small amount of glue to the board first, then arranging frames...
 
Since I am testing, no harm to see what ending up results will be ..
 

 

 
Happy modelling..
 

To continue on the update I spray painted the Jumbo boom crutch, Riding bitts, Engine box then hand painted the windlass chain/wood welps then proceeded to put it together with quadrants, quadrant links and Rocker, did make a rough little jig to hold parts while I installed shackles.
 



Then using the 1/12 motorbike chain I had mention back when I machined the gears I file the chain down so it looked like the size it should be, after that I sprayed it black.
 

 

Bought some 1/64 scale fishermen from Vanguard Models which are brilliant here's couple of pic's so that you can see how big these gears were.
 
 
Next was to install the steering linkage to the rudder, the steering box still needs to be painted.
 

last pic added the three circles between name on stern, still need to paint the cabin housing but did spray paint the Liverpool head and Dreadnaught head.
 


Until next time.
 
Regards
Richard

Been working on the Victory and kept looking over at the Bluenose and felt it was well due for an update, 1y 2m since last one 🤔
 
So thought I would start with getting the name and scroll work on a black board, used Clover House dry transfers, Railroad Roman Condensed Bold - yellow which I think was the closest to the drawing. Scroll work I hand painted, do think I should have left a bit more space between letters or letters could have been smaller. 
 
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/924/ICnGMg.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/922/wMW0Z2.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/923/H2xbwt.jpg
Now the stern name plate was white, did try dry transfers but failed miserably, so started to make a decal, used word to make this but had quite a few rejects.
 
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/923/sokCSb.jpg
 
Tried Inkjet printing first, printing was fine used Experts Choice white decal film for inkjet, then followed the instructions to cover the decal with Microscale Liquid Decal film then let it dry for a couple of days. 
 
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/924/1jPdRC.jpg
Then went to put decal on the model once I left in water for 45 seconds the ink just peel off the decal leaving more of a white space, so kept trying and could not get it to work (this was the first time making decals) so went on you-tube and one guy was saying you should use a Laser printer, so went and bought a laser printer then had to get white decal film for laser printer.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/924/9Z00Us.jpg
So for me this worked yeah 
 
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/924/8BQulk.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/924/B88lZV.jpg
The three white rings to be done later.
To be continued.
 
Regards
Richard
 

I've just made my first rope on my new Syren Rope Rocket and thought I'd share my experiences. 
 
First thing to say is that I was delighted with the result. I'd had a little previous experience with the more basic 'handraulic' version from Model Expo so I had some idea how to make rope, but even so I was surprised just how well my first efforts turned out.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The line on the left was my first effort - three single strands of the thread Chuck supplied with the kit producing 10' of 0.67mm/0.026" rope.
The one on the right has 9 strands of the same thread. You can put multiple strands on the Rope Rocket, so I tried 3 strands between each pair of hooks. Apart from a minute or two more to set up, it takes no longer to produce 9 strand than 3 strand material. The resulting rope was just over 1.2mm/0.047".
 
A few suggested Do's & Dont's from my experience so far:
 
Do watch Chuck's videos (on the Syren website and YouTube). They're excellent, and I learned more from them than umpteen written descriptions of rope making.
Do take the time to clean off the laser char and varnish the headstock and tailstock. The cherry is a fine wood and it would be a shame not to bring out the best in it.
Don't do what I did, and varnish the ropewalk after assembly. I did this, and despite my best efforts I gummed up some of the moving parts. Easily sorted, but avoidable. It would have also been much easier to varnish the parts before assembly, but I was too impatient! Also don't get varnish on the underside of the assemblies, or if you do clean it off. I've found a lot of the art of rope making lies in getting a feel for how the headstock or tailstock wants to 'walk' along the table as you spin up the ropewalk, and to do that they need to be able to slide freely.
Do make sure you've got some very small hex keys (aka allen keys). I struggled to find one for the very smallest set screws. Until I eventually found one (1.3mm) I had to make do with a jeweller's screwdriver (the size used for adjusting the tiny screws in spectacles) but I wouldn't recommend that as it might distort the set screws.
Do follow Chuck's advice in the instructions and use a strong epoxy or a CA with good gap filling properties to stick the eye screws into the brass tubes in the headstock. This is the only part of the construction that makes me a bit nervous, as the fit is quite loose and the eye screws come under considerable tension. I've had no problems so far, but eventually I might replace the tube/eye screw arrangement with a single length of solid brass, with one end fashioned into a hook. Incidentally, like Chuck I opened up the eye screws slightly, making it much easier to set up the thread. However unlike Chuck I opened them before fixing them in place, as I was worried that too much twisting with pliers might weaken the glue joint.
Do check that everything spins freely when assembled. I found that the big central gear in the headstock tended to rub slightly against the washers under the smaller gears. This might be a result of some mistake on my part, but its something others might want to check for themselves. I found that an appropriately sized washer glued to the face of the headstock brought the big gear out just far enough to engage nicely with the small gears.
Do watch Chuck's videos again!
 
In summary, I'm delighted with the Rope Rocket and the rope it produces and would highly recommend it. I'm off now to experiment with different threads, 4-ply rope & etc. I've also got Chuck's Serv-o-Matic and am lookking forward to my first foray into serving.
 
Derek
 

Took two tries before i got it to bend without breaking.

I am also in favour of sable brushes. I use either W&N series 7 (very expensive) or rafael 8404 (about half the price pretty much just as good). Make sure if you invest in some brush soap. A tub like this will last you many years. If you are going to buy expensive brushes make sure you take care of them. There are lots of videos on youtube to help.
 
I would actually recommend a size slightly larger than 000, what matters is the point and since you don’t have to worry about getting the brush into a tight space, a larger one will hold more paint and not dry out as quickly. That being said try a few sizes and see what works best for you.
 
Acrylic paint is somewhat transparent so when painting a very transparent colour (such as yellow) over a dark colour such as blue you need to build up the layers. Try painting with a brown colour first and then building up to brighter yellows.
 
Good luck

Testing Chucks method

HaHa
Just been using my Mitre as a thin strip jig on my Byrnes saw.  But I like the one above.  Might scratch build my own version.

Post Thirteen: Completing Outside of the ship
 
I have now finished the detail work of the outer ship.  My impressions of the ship so far are that while the model fits together much more nicely than any previous model I've made, the level of detail increases the complexity level.  In many ways this model is less difficult than my previous model the HMS Dianna because the amount of carving and "good enoughing" I had to do to make that model go together was a challenge.  These parts are by far better quality, and they fit together so much better.  Still, the shear amount of details added to this model offsets the easier fitting, making this model equally as challenging but in very different ways.  Personally, I really enjoy the detail work.  I picked up figure painting between models, and I find this skill directly applicable to Vanguard models.
 

I am not keeping the exact colors of the kit.  Instead I have borrowed from other builders on this site creating it in the fashion that suits my taste.  I am willing to deviate from historical accuracy to a degree if I like the aesthetic alteration.  For the yellows I followed Blue Ensign with the Ochres.  I didn't like the ivory white as much for the high detail coat, so I left it out for the most part.
 
Here I have hung the anchor.  I used the Syren fittings, as I prefer the swivel.
 
Adding these side details was a new challenge for me.  I like using this PE material.  It's perfect for painting, as it is layered.  My biggest problems here was preventing the CE glue from turning the blue paint white and stationing them on accurately.  It was tedious to lay them out, and I had a lot of touch up work after it was done.  
Wow!  This close up makes my "great" painting job look rather sloppy.  One thing I'm a little unsure of is the "leafy" piece next to the windows.  Is that supposed to go there?  I see some modelers add it, while others place it in different spots or not at all.  I think I made it look nice enough in the end.
Here the channels have been added.  I found them rather normal to install.

Here is the completed rear.  It took a lot of time to get the Sphinx decal the colors I wanted.  In the end, I bought high quality paper, a new printer (we needed it), and printed the photo twice overtop itself.  This created a much richer color that resembles the blue paint.  I am very happy with this outcome. =]

The roman numerals proved tricky for me.  I had to touch them up after CE gluing them on, as I couldn't help pulling off chunks of copper paint while gluing.  These pieces are so small!

Detailing the nose of the ship, I really like what Blue Ensign did (if you can't tell, I'm a big fan of his work!) I painted in blue all the middle lines to add an extra elegance to the design.  Below is side shot of the nose:


Finally, the completed outside!  The deadeyes were a real treat!  Their design was great to work with.  I blackened all the PE parts in this kit with Brass Black.  That was new for me as well.  (I also started the inside, but I'll save those pictures for the next post.)

One final note: I have used mostly Natural color wood finish stain on the parts.  I love the aesthetics of this finish brings.  Thanks Hollowneck for the advice.

Hey Clogger,  Thank you! I bought the figures from the Vanguard.  Chris Watton has put extraordinary effort into every model and figure he makes.  You can't go wrong, if it's in your budget.  https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/

Love your work.  Not sure if this has been asked before but where did you get the figures from?  Are there 1/32 or 1/35 figures similar to these available?
Myself, I would leave the bases off the figures eventually so as to make them more realistic looking in their position on the ship. 

Post Twelve: Many Updates
 
In keeping with my poor ability to keep up with this journal, I have taken relatively few pictures and have not posted in a timely manner.  Still, I have many updates worth sharing.  Many of these have been inspired by Blue Ensign.
 

I
I felt my pear planking veneer showed too many errors, so I decided to paint the lower end white per the instructions. 

Here, I opened the quarterdecks following B.E's design.  The deck on the starboard side is for storage, so I painted a few buckets and glued them in.  It was the only storage items I had that fit that small space.

Of course, the port side has the seat of ease for the captain.

Next I completed the captain's quarters.  First, I painstakingly crated the bench.

Then I detailed the quarters with stain and decals that I copied from the books or B.E.'s build log.

Next I turned to detailing the sides of the ship.  Here are current photos of the build.  I use Natural colored stain for the unpainted wood areas.

My daughter's princess tent sets in the background =]

Post Eleven: Planking *sigh*
Yes, this is a long process.  I think it took me about 1.5-2 weeks.  I lost steam on this step.  I forced myself to get 4 per night after I made it about half way.  I started matching each side to ensure they were even with each other.  I found these thinner planks (about 1/2 the thickness of what I'm used to) were so much easier to work with.  Bending was easy.  I soak and iron with a laundry iron, but I found a plank bender worked fine on the fore side.  I only needed to soak and iron on the aft.  I applied a liberal amount of natural wood filler to seal the cracks when the helmet was completed. Sanding was a breeze.  I just keep my hand-held Dyson by my side.

I cut the planks short of the aft to have an easier time of bending the planks.  The aft side requires a sharp curve.


The fore side required some careful measurements to ensure they matched on each side and kept pace with the main body of the planking.


By the halfway mark, I set one plank on each side. This made it easier to close the helmet in.

Here you can see I made pencil marks before I made my fore-side cuts to make sure I aligned correctly.

Completed Helmet

Added wood filler and sanded:  There are still several bumps, but they are soft and gradual.  I may go back and sand more.  I'm not worried about the little gaps showing in the first and third picture below because they lay down flat quite easily.  When I place the veneer, I will have no problem with those.

Generally, I am happy with the helmet so far.  I do believe the veneer will smooth things out quite nicely when the time comes.
 
 

Post Ten: Gun Deck and Hull Side Pattern
I absolutely formed the hull side pattern backwards.  These are the mistakes I make.  Glaring errors that are completely avoidable.  I wanted to get them curved before the kid's bedtime to work on the ship later on.  Well, you know how the saying goes: Haste makes waste.  Luckily, they measure perfectly backwards and forwards.  I just don't get the laser etchings to guide me.


I agree with B.E. and was actually rooting for him to use the black and white checkered pattern.  I will be using this myself. 

Post Eight
 
Turns out I am not good at keeping up with my journal.  I have a lot of updates, but I am going to have to switch to more generic logs or I will never complete this journal.  Forgive me.  I write for a living, and I seldom find the strength to add a log at the end of my week.  Here are updates for the bulwarks.  You can see I created a pattern that follows after B.E. for the for deck.

No Idea, I’ve been so intimidated by your incredible build that I confess I couldn’t look anymore as I fear I would have given up on my far more inferior efforts.  However I am at last at the rigging stage with my 1/36 Le Rochefort. Hope you don’t mind me sharing my ship.
Don’t look too closely as there are a lot of little errors. 

Stunning!