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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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Using Vallejo acrylic paints, started by spraying on black primer. The first face and flesh color applied by brush is brown sand. This will be followed by many multiple thin coats of various flesh shades to achieve a desired outcome. For this exercise, I made a “wet palette” to keep the paint thin and wet. Vallejo and others subscribe to many thin coat applications to prevent any ‘clumpiness’ in the finished paint.
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Everything looks brilliant. You are really doing this ship some justice, Mike. Love seeing your updates.
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Probably so but since I never use the figures…
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Test fit, test fit, and test fit again. Had to remove both inner door latch handles in order to get the doors to close. It”s a tight fit for two men in the front seat!
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It’s just a dry fit. Makes no sense to paint unless you know it fits, first. I wasn’t sure it the arms and Hans would be in the proper position to hold the steering wheel.
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Once adding the figures, makes me realize how small the car is.
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Thanks Edward. I'm not a figure painter but will give it my best shot. Been watching some techniques that I'll try out here for the first time, so will just have to see how it goes.
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I had not considered how tricky it might be to get the figures fitted into the model. Had to break away the clutch and brake pedals, then break away the steering wheel and column. A rough dry fit indicates I can get it to work. After painting the figure, will need glue the wheel into his hands then deal with the steering column. The clutch and brake pedals cannot stay, not enough space and you couldn’t see them anyway. The remaining figures should fit much more easily. Nothing in the way.
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Indeed it does. Great job on these figures OC.
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She looks like one could climb aboard and go to sea...just like the real thing. Stunning model, Yves.
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Great build of the Phantom, EG! Love it! F-4's flew out of MacDill AFB here in my hometown and I always got a kick seeing them flying formation overhead.
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I don't know where you grew up, but nobody told the pilots flying to Avon Park bombing range in Florida about that law. I heard sonic booms all the time in the 60's.
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Mr Color has a few modulation sets that box four varying shades of paint, dark to light, in one set. One is for gray German vehicles (the one I'm using), one set for green Japanese aircraft, one set for sand-desert colored vehicles, and one set for Japanese navy. So the idea is to lay down the darkest color first, then gradually lighten it with the next three lighter shades. This gives a 3D effect and shadows. It's easy enough to do the same thing by adding a varying percentage of lighter color to a dark base color of any paint brand, but I particularly like the Mr Color lacquer paints. They behave well out of the airbrush, plus I can thin them down quite a bit without getting runs in the paint. Gives me better paint flow control than I can get with acrylics. Here is a Israeli tank I did with the desert yellow modulation set:
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There are a lot of diorama possibilities in my shop. Got to practice.
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You get two complete hoods in this kit. One is molded for the closed position, and the other for a folded or open position. I plan to display it closed, but am tempted to build and paint the folded open hood just for kicks. I like the engine bay detail and of course none of it can be seen with it displayed with a closed hood.
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Nice recovery you made on the deck. Those wood decks are notorious for wicking the paint underneath your paint masks. I learned that the hard way on a 1:350 USS Essex aircraft carrier I was building when I masked and painted the deck numbers. The deck sucked the paint underneath the mask.
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Laid down some German gray paint tonight in four stages, modulation. First stage second stage third stage fourth stage will finish it off with some grime and a little rust here and there. Next will work on the interior.
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Sounds about right. Here in the USA, I use a pounds per square inch (PSI) scale rather than bars, but the conversion is 1.5 bars = approximately 22 PSI. The thicker your paint, the more pressure you will need to push it out of the brush. When you are doing large work and need high paint volume, you turn the pressure up. When you are doing fine work, you thin the paint and turn the pressure down a bit. It's something you will have to experiment with to get the hang of it. Vallejo Air paints are supposed to be ready to spray through your airbrush straight from the bottle, but sometimes I may need to add a drop or two of thinner to get it to behave properly through my airbrush. I set my pressure at the compressor around 24 PSI, then I use a second air valve to regulate my pressure down at the airbrush. With this valve, I adjust it by feel, not by a gauge since I already know the pressure is 24 PSI on the high end, I just adjust it down according to my particular need, testing it on a piece of paper or scrap plastic first before spraying my model. Look on youtube. There are a ton of good videos on how to use the airbrush as well as how to thin the various paints.
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Looks great OC. You made a good choice for your 1st airbrush. You will gets years of fun with it. In your spare time, practice spraying the airbrush on card or paper to get a better feel for everything you can do with it. As you pull back on the trigger, you increase the amount of paint coming out of it. Pull back little and you can paint very fine lines. Pull back more and the line width will increase. With practice, you will become comfortable with how much is enough for the particular task.
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