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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. That brass rudder is far better than the kit material. Big upgrade there, and all you had to do was find some scrap you already had. I like it. Were the 1:1 Army Tugs steel hull ships?
  2. I rummaged through the boxes of kits I have stashed out in my garage, and found my old copy of the Sox and Martin GTX. The kit was never started, but it's so old, the decals are shot from being stored in a non climate controlled building. I think there are some aftermarket ones available for it. If not, will just do it as a street muscle car.
  3. You've been a busy modeler, Denis. Lookin' good! On the subject of trains...my daughter and son-in-law are taking us for that 5+ hour train ride through the mountains in New Hampshire when we come up later this month. Can't hardly wait for that. The photos of it look spectacular. Disney invented "Flubber", not 'rubber'. 😄
  4. I have an old, unstarted, Aeropiccola Serapis kit that I probably will not get around to building. When I got the kit, the blister card that held all the wooden fittings such as blocks and belaying pins had come open, blocks and pins were scattered loose inside the kit box. So I am going to assume that some of those could be missing. I see no evidence whatsoever that anything else is missing, though the rubber bands that held groups of parts together disintegrated over time. I am now in the process to carefully sorting and bundling it all back into their groups as I write this. Upon request, I will take photos of everything that's included in the box (a lot of stuff, and heavy). I looked the kit up, and cannot find where one sold anytime recently. However, I did find a build thread here on MSW and the fellow in the thread mentions what he paid for his kit long ago. If anyone has a serious interest in this kit, make me a fair offer for it. Shipping outside the USA will probably be cost prohibitive. If I don't hear anything from members here in the next couple of days, will put it up for sale on Ebay.
  5. Yeah, I grow tired of seeing the same old things over and over again. It's refreshing to sometimes see a different color scheme, a different theme on an old familiar subject. That's what made custom cars, motorcycles and street rods so popular (and still are to me). It's that creativity aspect that makes it interesting...like science fiction. On the other hand, there's a time and place for true fidelity to scale and appearance. A royalty model for example, or a museum replica of any given subject. I often prefer a "what if" scheme far more so than an historically correct one. To be totally honest, I often find the rivet counting and meticulous research "requirement" to be a hindrance to my own productivity rather than a help.
  6. My grandfathers (great greats of course) made that sacrifice and fought the British for our freedom. More fought and died since then for our freedoms, here as well as on foreign shores. As long as I draw breath, I swear to never surrender our freedoms to any enemy foreign or domestic so that my children and grandchildren may remain free.
  7. Absolutely love the detail, though I feel for you knowing the strain it takes to meticulously go through all those tiny photo etch pieces. Just cutting them out and filing away the nubs is a challenge before you even get started folding, bending, gluing, and cussing. And the extra cussing when something as small as a photo etch fly's elbow falls off the table and onto the floor.
  8. All my rowdy friends have settled down. Most are gone now, but never forgotten. I wouldn't trade those days for nothing, but I wouldn't want to relive them either.
  9. Does the kit come with everything you need to make the pipe? Never seen a do it yourself pipe kit before this one. Pipes used to be popular, now I never see anyone smoking a pipe around here. I think pipes are cool, and if I smoked again, might try a pipe. Been a lot of years.
  10. Just an observation and an opinion... In the case of that weird geometric shaped photo etch that must be twisted and contorted in several ways to get it to resemble whatever it's intended to resemble in the rafts...I believe that photo etch is not necessarily the best medium to catch that detail. Instead, I think it should be thread to simulate the detail/s. The photo etch just doesn't look convincing. The photo etch at the bottom of the rafts looks fine, but the parts you had trouble with are a different story in my opinion.
  11. I've got what you need right here. It's an old Sterling Models Fokker D.VII, a 60" wingspan scale model that can be setup for R/C. This thing would keep you busy an entire winter and then some.
  12. And I didn't do my homework before I traded for it. It was a good looking truck and I sold it for $2000, which was a good piece of change at the time.
  13. It's going to look just fine, don't over-think it. You can control how much gray goes down and it will allow you to give the look you want. That's just my opinion of course. To get finer lines, turn your air pressure down and remove the guard off the tip of your airbrush, so that you can see the tip of the needle and seat. Hold your airbrush very close to the line you're painting, and use one hand to help steady your painting hand (holding the airbrush) as you spray on the lines. I don't have ready access to a video to show you that technique, but just practice it on paper first. You can get very fine straight lines. What is your needle and tip size? If it's .3 or smaller, you'll be just fine.
  14. When I was a young man, traded one of my custom built motorcycles for a '55 Dodge Pickup that was custom built. It had a 440, big 4 barrel, and headers. That thing was just scary fast. The rear end would break traction so easily and start fish-tailing, even when you weren't trying to do a fast take-off. The '55 Dodge trucks had straight axles and leaf springs in the front. They gave you the true idea of exactly what the old saying "that thing drives like a truck" really meant. They were hard to steer, took a lot of muscle, and had a very rough ride. High speeds would make your hair stand on end, they were so squirrelly. Not a lot of fun to drive, I'll tell you that. Sucked gas down so fast, you could literally watch the gas gauge go down if you floored it. Maybe got 5 MPG at best.
  15. Everybody's going to have their own opinion, but I think it looks right. Not too much, not too little. Well done.
  16. For future reference... Mr. Metal Primer is a very good bare metal primer. It has the consistency of water, it's clear, self leveling, and is an "etching" primer for metal. IE: it attains a very good bond to metal that does not flake off. It is very slow drying, about 24 hours drying time required. The bottle comes with it's own brush in the bottle cap and you just brush it on your bare metal parts, paint with a color coat of your choice after the primer is dry. I've had the same bottle for a few years. A little goes a long way. Sells for less than $7 per bottle.
  17. Toms, Gold Medal, and Verlinden were a few of the very earliest producers of photo etch I can recall. When photo etch first popped up on the market (1990's I believe, maybe late 80's), it was a cottage industry. Mom and Pop operations in the garage sort of thing. Besides photo etch, Toms produced some vacuform/multimedia models that included photo etch. The most high tech model ships were cast resin with photo etch and turned brass/aluminum barrels. Talk about a pain in the rear...the resin was often full of pinholes and voids, often warped. Took a lot of prep work to build one of those back then.
  18. This is a great airbrush for a small amount of money. Lots of features, easy to use, precise, "made in Japan" quality. And the seller, Spray Gunner, he's the best around in service and reliability. Fast shipping, very knowledgeable. https://spraygunner.com/gsi-creos-mr-airbrush-procon-boy-ps-289-0-3mm-platinum/
  19. Wow, Glen. Our buddy Mike told me about your Iron Clads, but the photos really bring the subject into clear view. Awesome work there! Will this have operable guns as well? Craig
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