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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. The Avenger model comes with a set of bi-fold bomb bay doors. The doors are enhanced with a fully photo etch lined inner door detail provided stock in the kit. Often, modelers ask what type of glue to use for photo etch. While CA glue has it's place in the scheme of things, my personal favorite most of the time is acrylic glue. Why? *The slower drying time gives plenty of latitude for positioning the part without it inadvertently adhering too soon. *It dries completely clear with no fogging. *It dries very thin without a buildup. *It cleans up with water. *It's a more flexible bond, not brittle like CA. I can easily clean up any excess glue with a paint brush wetted with water to eliminate any sign of the glue on the finished model. Another question modelers often ask, what is the best primer for photo etch? My choice is Mr Metal Primer. *It is a solvent based primer, and completely transparent. *It adheres very well to photo etch and mostly eliminates the chance of the finished paint color peeling away from the photo etch. *It can be brushed onto delicate photo etch parts and is self leveling. *Dries quickly. *Since it has no color pigments, it will not obliterate the fine surface details that photo etch is meant to provide. The kit provides pre shaped bomb bay hinges for the doors to attach in a bi-fold fashion.
  2. The Mossie is shaping up very nicely OC. The photo etch inside the cockpit is paying dividends.
  3. Hi Denis Just found your build log for the Agilis. Wanted to follow along to learn a thing or three. There are more than a few wooden ship models in my stash, but it's outside the sphere of my comfort zone. I'm a neophyte wood ship modeler. Maybe following some guys who are experts such as you and JCT will give me the confidence boost I need to start one of my own.
  4. As others have said, the order to follow is: gloss coat where the decal is to be placed microset under the decal microsol over top of the decal flat clear coat over decal when it's dry I've run into the same issue with model master flat clear - it dries milky. Tamiya flay clear is my go-to for that purpose. As you said, never over brush. Let the clear settle itself over the area where applied. Otherwise, you will leave brush marks. PS: if you have any Future, it works perfectly as your gloss clear coat under decals and it works perfectly when brushed on.
  5. It's well known in Florida, bull sharks are man eaters. Last time I checked, they account for the majority of shark attacks in Fla. They swim far upstream in rivers as well, well beyond brackish water.
  6. There are a lot of critters to ruin your swimming in Fla lakes. Water Moccasins, gators, parasites, etc. As a Fla native, I don't swim in lakes but we used to do it a lot as kids. The water was cleaner back then before the massive population increase and urbanization which brought a lot of pollutants to our lakes through rainwater runoff, not the least of which is fertilizer and heavy metals (from automobiles).
  7. Not enough natural light in my room. It's definitely navy blue which is a very dark blue. When you look at the photo of the gator, you'll see water lilies. Ahead of the lilies are floating roots called tussocks. The gators root up the water lilies and the roots float to the surface of the water where the gators lay out to catch sun (reptiles do that) and to lay/hatch their eggs. Often, you'll see baby gators 8" long sunning themselves on the tussock beds.
  8. My brother pulled this big spec out from the gator's lair yesterday. He's fishing at Lake Kissimmee in Fla
  9. Glad there is something here that helps just a bit. The Avenger was the largest single engine aircraft of WW2.
  10. With this aircraft and many other WW2 US aircraft, you want the inner canopy frame colored zinc chromate. To achieve this, the canopy is first painted (on the outside) with zinc chromate. After the z.c. is dry, then a coat of the exterior color is painted on the canopy frame, in this case navy blue. Twice I glued on and subsequently knocked off the photo etched turret gun sight. Finally decided to wait until just before the turret glass was installed to glue it on for the last time. I have finally arrived at the time to join the fuselage halves.
  11. Wow, the Mercedes weighed over 5,000 pounds. What a beast! If a guy could afford a car like that, he would not have been concerned at all for the cost of poor fuel economy. Maybe more concerned about range, but it probably had a huge fuel tank. Look at the size of the differential on that car...it's huge. 100+ MPH was WAY faster than those tires could be trusted I'll bet.
  12. Best way I've found is to use a tooth pick/cocktail stick to pick at an edge and make it rise up just a bit so you can grab it with tweezers. The wood stick won't scratch the clear plastic. Sometimes I just carefully use my tweezers which have a pointy end to lift the mask, but that's more risky of scratching the plastic.
  13. Brother, if you ever wanted to realize what dark looks like, live on top of an isolated mountain in West Virginia like my wife and I did in the early 80's. It was one of those places where you literally could not see your hand directly in front of your face on many nights. Made the mistake of staying at my father-in-law's house too late one night and when I got to the gravel road that led up the mountain to our house, realized my truck could not make the climb, too much ice even with chains on all four of my 4x4. No flashlight, hiked a mile uphill in total darkness to our house. Ridiculous is what that was.
  14. Thanks Denis. I am so ready to close up the fuselage and finish this beast. The tri-color US Navy scheme should prove interesting to do.
  15. Yes, i am using Vallejo chromate green. Yes on the tape, there's just way more than $6 worth of taping on this model, and that's approximately the cost of the masking set if you can find one. I searched hi and low for this set. PS: for some odd reason, the Vallejo chromate green is not easy to find on hobby shop shelves. You can make your own chromate green by mixing Tamiya green with yellow. In hindsight, I would go with Tamiya if I had to do it all over again.
  16. Just an hour or so after I posted the last photos, the canopy mask set arrived in the mail from England. Because of the complexity of the masking required for this model, the pre cut masking set is a huge benefit for a small cost.
  17. There's a good sized window on the port side and a door on the starboard side at the bombardier's station that will enable a limited view. Once the turret frame is painted, there will be a limited view from that direction. Will decide whether to use the open canopy at the pilot's area or closed. Leaning toward open right now. Bomb bay doors will be left open.
  18. The Avenger crew consisted of three men. A bombardier-radioman, turret gunner, and the pilot. The bombardier-radioman sat in a bench seat underneath the turret gun, where a .30 caliber machine gun was mounted pointed to the rear to serve as a ventral defensive armament. The gun turret was electric powered, the gunner having his own seat and a .50 caliber machine gun to help fend off enemy fighters. In order to join and cement the fuselage halves, the turret glass must be installed first as it will not fit after the fuselage halves are joined. Consequently, this will cause a delay as the canopy mask set is inbound from a vendor in England. Because this model was originally produced in 2005, very few aftermarket items can be found for it now. If you find one you're almost forced to buy it even if it must come from across the ocean. I've been checking the fit of the internal details to the fuselage halves as I'm progressing, trying to avoid any unexpected fit issues when the halves go together. So far so good, as everything seems to be very well engineered and fits well.
  19. Yes, I did in the early 2000's, owned several different helicopters trying to master flight. 99% of the time, there are no "minor" RC helicopter crashes. The slightest rotor blade ground strike does major damage and misalignment of parts that take hours to replace and adjust. Very expensive to repair as well. It's so easy to become disoriented as control becomes completely different when tail out or tail in. Generally, orientation is tail in, as if one were sitting in the cockpit. When the helicopter turns and heads toward you (tail out), control is then reversed so to speak as right becomes left and left becomes right. In addition, it's hard to tell how the tail is oriented once the helicopter gets a couple hundred feet out. Last, an RC model helicopter can hurt you or spectators badly, even death. Those blades turn so fast with so much mass, they can cut you open like a buzz saw.
  20. B-25 models in general are notorious tail sitters. Remember the company that used to specialize in nose weights made specifically for certain models? I can't recall the company name, but they made weights in the correct shape to fit perfectly in the nose of your model. I've wondered if they were still in business but I doubt it. Things like that come and go.
  21. Guns are very well done. Holy mackerel, that's a HUGE dime!
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