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Everything posted by CDW
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When you and I were talking, I thought that's what you were describing so yes, this is how to do it. Make sure to paint the back side of the acetate film white, or else the dials will not show up. Alternatively, you could paint the back panel white, but one way or the other, white needs to go on the back side of the acetate for it to come out right. PS: use either white glue (not the yellow wood glue) or acrylic glue to join the three instrument panels together. You can also use a drop of glue in each instrument so that when it dries, it will look like a lens.
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Thanks Lou. The fact this model is BIG helps a lot to achieve detail. The kit uses a plastic dash with holes molded in where the instrument dials are located, an acetate panel that has dial details printed on, then a molded plastic panel backing. The acetate gets sandwiched between the two plastic panels giving it a realistic look for the gauges. You have to paint the back side of the acetate with white before joining the three pieces together, as the acetate looks very similar to undeveloped film and if not painted white on the backside, no dial detail would be seen.
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Bell UH-1H Huey By lmagna - Dragon - 1/35 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to lmagna's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I suggest you acquire a bottle of Mr Color thinner, preferably the leveling thinner rather than the standard thinner, then use that to thin and paint the resin parts. Mix in 50:50 ratio for starters. Thin more if needed. It will stick much better than acrylic by far. The Mr. Color paints we talked about are solvent based paints and high quality as long as they have not deteriorated by age and/or extreme temperatures. Acrylic paints can be ruined if they are exposed to freezing temps. -
Love the pirate figures and what they add to the model. A great variety of poses in that set.
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The focal point of this model are the interior components. Not sure how much of it will be seen once the fuselage halves go together, but it does have an open bomb bay, and open hatch for the gunner's station in the ventral position. While even now the interior parts look complex, this is only about 50% of what will be the sum of it, while I still must add a lot of detail including the gun turret, the ventral gun station, and options for an extra fuel tank, or a torpedo, or four bombs in the bomb bay.
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I agree with you OC. EJ did an outstanding job making the sails. Impressive work.
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By any chance, was your visit to the Bounty in St. Petersburg, Fla? I visited the Bounty there in the 60's as well. I believe it was still there in the 70's.
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Wow OC, your figures make a very real difference in the look of the entire ship. They look superb and all your effort is rewarded. I'll bet the wife is loving the model now that it's so close to finish.
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D.H.2 is a favorite WW1 aircraft. Glad to find your build thread.
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Acrylic paint tips and techniques
CDW replied to Canute's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I often use retarder when brushing on acrylic paints to slow down the drying time and avoid lap marks. This is particularly true of Tamiya acrylic paints which have a tendency to dry very quickly and are difficult to brush on because of that. -
Glad you're back! Been there and did similar when my oldest brother passed away. Just needed some time to sort out my thoughts and didn't feel like doing the same old things, but eventually the pain eases and life returns to normal. Hang in there, we're all pulling for you. What you've done on the model looks super!
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