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CDW
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There's a good sized window on the port side and a door on the starboard side at the bombardier's station that will enable a limited view. Once the turret frame is painted, there will be a limited view from that direction. Will decide whether to use the open canopy at the pilot's area or closed. Leaning toward open right now. Bomb bay doors will be left open. -
The Avenger crew consisted of three men. A bombardier-radioman, turret gunner, and the pilot. The bombardier-radioman sat in a bench seat underneath the turret gun, where a .30 caliber machine gun was mounted pointed to the rear to serve as a ventral defensive armament. The gun turret was electric powered, the gunner having his own seat and a .50 caliber machine gun to help fend off enemy fighters. In order to join and cement the fuselage halves, the turret glass must be installed first as it will not fit after the fuselage halves are joined. Consequently, this will cause a delay as the canopy mask set is inbound from a vendor in England. Because this model was originally produced in 2005, very few aftermarket items can be found for it now. If you find one you're almost forced to buy it even if it must come from across the ocean. I've been checking the fit of the internal details to the fuselage halves as I'm progressing, trying to avoid any unexpected fit issues when the halves go together. So far so good, as everything seems to be very well engineered and fits well.
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Bell UH-1H Huey By lmagna - Dragon - 1/35 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to lmagna's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Yes, I did in the early 2000's, owned several different helicopters trying to master flight. 99% of the time, there are no "minor" RC helicopter crashes. The slightest rotor blade ground strike does major damage and misalignment of parts that take hours to replace and adjust. Very expensive to repair as well. It's so easy to become disoriented as control becomes completely different when tail out or tail in. Generally, orientation is tail in, as if one were sitting in the cockpit. When the helicopter turns and heads toward you (tail out), control is then reversed so to speak as right becomes left and left becomes right. In addition, it's hard to tell how the tail is oriented once the helicopter gets a couple hundred feet out. Last, an RC model helicopter can hurt you or spectators badly, even death. Those blades turn so fast with so much mass, they can cut you open like a buzz saw. -
doggone
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B-25 Mitchell "Meet Miss Runyon" by Javlin-HK-1/32
CDW replied to Javlin's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
B-25 models in general are notorious tail sitters. Remember the company that used to specialize in nose weights made specifically for certain models? I can't recall the company name, but they made weights in the correct shape to fit perfectly in the nose of your model. I've wondered if they were still in business but I doubt it. Things like that come and go. -
Sikorsky CH-53 by mtaylor - FINISHED - Revell - 1:48 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to mtaylor's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Guns are very well done. Holy mackerel, that's a HUGE dime! -
Hi Mike I just caught up with your log. Your work looks great! Looking forward to following your progress in the future.
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In the middle of my hobby fun, chores around the house have gone front and center. I have some things to take care of that are due, so must spend some days finishing those up before I can return to this big bird. Meanwhile, I'm waiting for a set of canopy masks to arrive from England and paint from New Hampshire. As MacArthur said, I shall return.
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Your Wulfhound is looking beautiful Denis. It's going to be a very unique piece when you're through with it. Keep up the great work.
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Don't ever assume you're good with a hard drive because they can fail without any notice whatsoever. I learned that lesson the hard way when I lost everything stored on two separate hard drives. 1.5 terabytes in total. I lost pictures, documents and plans I had stored for many years. Only way to give yourself some confidence is to have redundant backup systems including the cloud. Costs money so that's something to keep in mind.
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Considering how many warbirds Kermit Weeks owns, it's amazing his recall of all the control functions in the Mossie cockpit. And when you watch his videos, you'll notice he has this recall of every aircraft he owns which tells me he gets in a hella lot of flying time as well has having a great memory. These aircraft were fairly complex and each different type had their own peculiarities.
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My buddy was at a blues festival just a couple of months ago here in Florida, and ran across Kermit Weeks who was attending the same festival. He's really a cool, regular guy who is lucky enough to own and fly literally dozens of warbirds including the Mossie in these videos.
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OC What color are you going to use for the cockpit area. Do all British WW2 aircraft share the same cockpit color? For US aircraft, it's almost universally zinc chromate green. You can get that color by mixing Tamiya's green and lemon yellow, but they (Tamiya) don't sell a premixed color for zinc chromate. For my current project, I've been using Vallejo Model Air zinc chromate, but recently found out I had bought the only bottle of it in town. If I had known it was that scarce, I would have mixed my own with Tamiya paints. I had to order some Vallejo from another state and am waiting for it to arrive.
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Very nice progress OC, and I like that Spitfire. Excellent detail. Your attention to detail on the bomb bay is paying off.
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A dry run to see if the cockpit/bomb bay/gunner stations fit correctly into the fuselage halves. So far, so good. There remains the ventral gunner's station and tail wheel compartment before the fuselage halves can be closed up. No doubt, this is the best opportunity to see the internal details as I'm sure much of it will not be seen after the halves are closed.
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I thing the Spitfire Mk IX was their best looking Spitfire of all. Should be a real nice kit.
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Thanks for the kind words Gary, but the Mr Metal Color paints are very easy to use. They excel at dry brushing as they contain very finely ground metal pigments. The more your use your (dry) brush, the metal color pops out. Very similar in some ways to the Testors Metalizer paints that were popular years ago (if you're familiar with those) but better.
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my 3-0 paintbrush and Tamiya yellow
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I meant to expound on this question, but almost forgot. Sorry about that. The old Gunze line of paints is now called Mr. Color. In the Mr. Color range are a set called Mr. Metal Color. For engines, I mainly use iron, aluminum, copper, and others from the range as necessary. I first paint the engine by spraying on a flat black base, then I dry brush using the appropriate Mr. Metal Colors. For the engine cylinders, iron. For the crankcase, aluminum. For the valve covers and push rods, I use Tamiya semi-gloss black. The ignition ring is Mr. Metal Color copper, while other parts are Tamiya acrylics. The exhaust manifolds are painted with Ammo Mig burnt exhaust. Most everything painted gets a wash of black and/or brown. The ignition wires are stripped scrap electrical wire painted with Tamiya acrylic. Hope this helps. If you think of something more specific, just ask and I'll do my best to answer.
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Thanks Ken
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Hmmmm...no I never bought that one. Airfix has come a long way in recent years, improving their products. At one time, buying an Airfix kit was hit or miss. Sometimes they released some real stinkers. Some of those 1:24 kits they produced didn't fit well at all and I didn't want to take a chance on the big Mossie. It could be a great kit but I just don't know. Big for sure!
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Bell UH-1H Huey By lmagna - Dragon - 1/35 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to lmagna's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Really? Who woulda thunk it? 😁
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