Jump to content

CDW

NRG Member
  • Posts

    7,669
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by CDW

  1. Hi Dan Don't worry about a thing. I enjoyed learning more about the original, factory finish on this aircraft by everything you shared with me here. Thanks and don't hesitate to contribute in this way to any of my build threads. And likewise, thanks to you as well, EG. You are a storehouse of knowledge on so many subjects we model, and I always look forward to you sharing that information on my build threads.
  2. When listening to the YouTube video (posted on page 2) narrated by Bud Anderson, he says his ground crew worked all night stripping his aircraft to bare metal. While he doesn't mention putty, it seems likely to me that the crew stripped everything on top of the metal skin to lay it bare.
  3. What a lucky guy he is. All those warbirds along with the cash it takes to own, maintain, and fly them at will. Amazing indeed.
  4. Thanks Dan. I have no reference photos to use as a guide for the putty. Modern restored P-51’s show no evidence of the putty so I won’t try to model it now. Maybe on another build when I have reference to work from.
  5. I'm thinking about breaking up all that shiny aluminum with some various shades of aluminum on different panels.
  6. Primarily because of the smooth finish under it. But it's always that way with paint. It's only going to be as good as the surface it's painted on. I forgot to mention, the blue is Tamiya lacquer, "Pure Blue". it may be a tad darker blue than it should be, but I can live with it.
  7. I'm committed to the Petie 2 scheme now as I masked and painted the blue nose.
  8. Beautiful airplane and a great-looking model. The detail is excellent. What’s your next project?
  9. Great looking project, Jack. I've often wondered the same thing about products from Ukraine. How the heck are they doing it with all that's happening. I own quite a few of their figure kits but have yet to crack open one to finish. Your work is inspirational. That could be a beer-bong, Ken. A high-speed libations dispenser of sorts.
  10. mostly it’s trial and error experience. What’s worked for me in the past I stick with and the rest I discard. I suspect Pledge works best as it has no adverse effect on the Alclad finish, plus it’s cheap and readily available. The airbrush tends to be unreliable as it’s hard to lay it down smoothly without pooling, sags, and runs. I get more control with a soft brush and Pledge self-levels.
  11. Using Pledge, applied with a soft, wide brush to protect the Alclad chrome finish. Keeping brush strokes gentle and minimal to avoid marring the bright finish of the Alclad. Being careful not to allow droplets to appear along edges from over applying the Pledge. Less is more. The self-leveling qualities of the clear acrylic will take care of itself, so don't "over-brush" it. I'll lay down two coats before it's finished then allow a couple of days for it to cure before masking or decals.
  12. Thank you, James. The color is Alclad chrome. That particular metallic shade gives the effect with the most shine. Before I start handling or decaling and masking the model, I'll need to apply a clear acrylic gloss coat. Alclad is very susceptible to fingerprints and decal carrier film will look distorted on the model without the clear coat first.
  13. Early to bed, early to rise... She's shiny! Decided at the last minute to use Alclad rather than experiment on her with the Mr Color super silver 2. I'll experiment with the Mr Color silver when I paint the fuel tanks, racks and rocket mounts. Wheels, and UC too. I'm satisfied with the way the Alclad turned out.
  14. I've heard from reliable source that Mr Color super silver 2, heavily reduced, then sprayed on in light mist coats similar to using Alclad, gives great results. I'm going to give it a try and see what happens. Won't try it until tomorrow giving this Tamiya gloss black a full day to cure.
  15. I take that back...it looks like I did paint something green once on that stand. But it definitely is a stand for model car bodies. And it's been seldom used so far.
  16. I have several of those stands. That one is new and I have never painted anything on it yet. That particular stand is designed to hold model car bodies for painting. The spring wires go up inside the body and hold it tight while you paint and rotate the car body. I only used that stand because it was handy to sit the model on top while I took the photos. When I paint an airplane like the P-51, I push a metal rod of the correct diameter up through the engine crankshaft/hole to hold and rotate the model while I paint it. If it's a jet, run an appropriate diameter dowel up through the engine nozzle for the same purpose.
  17. The gloss black (Tamiya X-1) has been laid down and so far, it appears satisfactory. Smooth and glossy. The real test will be how it looks once the metallic is applied. Keeping my fingers crossed until then.
  18. Thanks Ken. It will be far from perfect but a nice shelf model to represent whichever pilot option I decide to take. Trying to decide between Old Crow and Pete II. I prefer the color scheme of Pete II but love the Bud Anderson story.
  19. The worst gaps were found at the wing roots. There I used some styrene to fill them in. After that used Mr Surfacer 500 to go over all the join areas on the fuselage. Once dry sanded it all down with a fine sanding sponge. Next I used Mr Surfacer 1500 along the joints then sanded that down with an extra fine sanding sponge to see what I might have missed. Once I touch up a few small areas and add some parts, will be ready to lay down my gloss black primer.
  20. Thanks for that link EG. They have some great looking model, don't they?
  21. Beautiful work, Rob. Have you or any others who may read this have any experience with Lukgraph resin kits? They offer a range of various 1:32 WW1 multimedia kits that are priced in the range of current WnW kit prices...average price point seems to be in the $200 - $225 range. The only place I've seen the kits offered for sale are on Ebay. No place local to me nor my regular online suppliers carry them. Here are a few examples: 1/32 LukGraph #32-30 Resin FF.33L Friedrichshafen ESY 53 | eBay LUKGRAPH 1/32 Royal Aircraft Factory B.E.2 | eBay LUKGRAPH ALBATROS C.III 1/32 | eBay
  22. And one heck of a battle that must be. That stuff has taken over down South! Are you using 2-4-D to control it?
  23. Thanks for sharing that video Andy. I really enjoyed watching it.
×
×
  • Create New...