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CDW
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After adding more component parts to the chassis, gave it a primer coat of Tamiya gloss black lacquer to underlie the Alclad steel paint to follow. I am not so certain gloss black was the correct color to underlie Alclad steel. Seems it should be a tad lighter in color once the steel color is applied. You can see some difference, but not much.
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Has anyone else tried using white gel ballpoint pens for tire lettering? Makes a difficult task much easier.
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Absolutely right
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When building a custom kit-bash like this one with a resin body, there is a lot of fitting, filing, sanding, test-fitting, in numerous attempts to get the body sitting just the way you want it. Like carpenters say, you can make additional cuts, but you can't add material if cut too far. To make the body clear the zoomie headers, the valve covers, and blower assembly to get that certain "rake" on the body, it's been a slow-moving process. To add to it, one must take special precaution when cutting, sanding, or filing resin as the resin dust is particularly hazardous for our upper respiratory system. The only safe way to do it is wet-sanding, wet-filing, and wet-cutting. What's going to take a little additional time is to scratch build a hinge for the rear of the body-to-frame attachment that will allow the body to flip back, similar to how the Orange Crate model was done. It will be another cut, fit, adjust, and repeat type arrangement. Once that task is completed, the rest of the build should go smoothly by comparison.
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Thanks for your concern, Bruce. For many years now, at least since the 90's, I have often said to my friends that this drug culture that is upon us in such a heinous way is the most significant spiritual problem of our lifetime. It's only growing worse it seems as massive numbers of our youth fall victim to it all over the country.
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Real life issues have prevented modeling time lately. My nephew suddenly and unexpectedly lost his 19-year-old grandson. His memorial service was recently held at a large family/friends gathering nearby. When she was a child, I used to take his mother (my great-niece) with us on outings with my young children. She is about the same age as my oldest son. So sad to see her lose her son that way. Earlier this week, what little time I had to spend on my model was trimming and fitting the body over the engine, trying to find the sweet spot to build my motor mounts and body mounts. I think I am real close now to sealing the deal on engine and body location.
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Very impressive model. Congratulations on the completion of it. I enjoyed the journey with you and the Bismarck.
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Thanks Yves. This engine comes from Texas 3D Customs. They produce some real nice 3D resin prints in a large variety of scales. Mostly car and truck modeling items. I have a couple of their Ferrari engines as well for the 250 GTO and the 250 Testarossa. Texas 3D Customs – Texas3DCustoms (tx3dcustoms.com)
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A main feature of the model will be the engine. As such, I bought a 3D printed resin blown hemi for it.
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Look how much had to come off the front of that funny car chassis to match up with the AA/Fuel Altered dragster wheelbase! 😄 With a machine with this much horsepower (around 1500 HP), running down the quarter mile in six seconds, that short wheelbase would be certain to cause a lot of pucker power. A wild ride is putting it mildly.
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Plastic spoons are our friends. They make a great test bed for paint trials. I have a couple of bottles of the black AK primer but have never opened them up and tested them. Frankly, I didn't realize they are enamel until after I bought them. Being enamel, they have limited utility right off the bat. Poor drying/curing problems are a nail in the coffin. But these metallic powders need a little tackiness to work. Even the Uschi powders didn't work well for me over lacquer.
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Thanks for the info, Rob. Did you try curing the primer in a dehydrator?
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Next, I want to try the pigment powders over enamel paint, like say for instance, AK gloss black. The stuff you use as a base coat for their chrome paint. The UV gel is thick and will obliterate fine detail under it. Maybe there is a reducer for UV gel? I’ll have to check into that as well.
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I think this could have looked even better if I had used a black UV base gel first instead of clear. Even still, it looks great this way.
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I stumbled upon a new "chrome plated" finishing method for our models. It involves items your wife may already have at home for nail care. I ordered all the items you see here from Amazon for around $35. You'll need a UV light, Finishing gel, and a chrome pigment powder. You'll apply a coat of the finishing gel on the item to be chrome plated, then apply the UV light for 60 seconds. Last, you'll use foam tipped makeup applicator to apply a small amount of the chrome pigment to the part. Use a soft paint brush to lightly dust off any excess pigment and "shazaam!", you've got the brightest, shiniest chrome you've ever seen. Darned near perfect. Very very easy to do. We'll just have to see how well it holds up over time but seeing as how it's for nails, it's likely to be very durable. This small amout of product will do a LOT of small chrome model parts. I have doubts about doing large parts but will test that at some time in the future. For the chrome parts for this model, it's perfect so far.
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Airfix brand new tool. I don’t believe there has been another 48th scale Gannet aside from Classic Aiframes and the Dynavector one from decades ago.
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I'll likely tackle it right out of the box. Let's look at all the parts, first, then decide. It arrived in a much larger box than I expected. Have not opened it yet but will tonight.
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By the way, the name of that aftermarket company was American Satco.
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Once upon a time there was an American aftermarket company that produced and sold model car tires. This is a set of fatties I had stashed away for a special occasion.
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The pieces I’ve cut off the rear of the chassis were part of the body mounts for the funny car, and won’t be needed for this model. In fact, they interfere. With the body sitting on top of the chassis, it gives an idea of the location where a portion of the front of the chassis needs to be removed so the front axle is slightly ahead of the front of the body. I’ll attach both front and rear axles and the wheels to make a definitive location for the cut.
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There is so much cleanup to do on the parting lines of these tubular chassis. Maybe 80% is taken care of now. Will get the rest after glue joints set up. I need to look and see where adjustments and alterations need to take place to make this a reasonable reproduction of the real thing. Wheel base is a little long I know. Roll cage may need to be shortened as well as adjustments for the wheelie bars.
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