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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. CDW
    Is this typical of card model plans and instructions? In the following photos, the diagrams illustrate a throttle assembly located on the port side of the cockpit, however the illustrations are vague and do not give detail part numbers or any detail sufficient for the modeler recreate this assembly. I can guess and probably get close, but I can foresee this sort of lack of detail could become a problem with more complex assemblies. I found what appear to be the parts for the throttle assembly on the printed parts page. How the heck do you sort out this kind of situation? It’s not apparent to me what the folds are intended to be or exactly how to cut out the parts. I am going to “wing it”. Kentucky windage. I have added a few more parts to the assembly. Last thing added are the rudder controls.
  2. CDW
    What a super project. Great subject to immerse yourself in paint, weathering, and fun. Is there any photo etch or turned brass included? Glad that sandpaper trick worked for you. It gives the clamps some bite.
  3. CDW
    Thanks OC, but it's some very basic stuff and not up to a standard I will be happy with. I have a lot to learn to begin mastering this aspect of the hobby. One thing I know for sure: at this time, I will refuse to buy a card model unless there is also a laser cut frame set available for purchase at the same time. Cutting these parts out is a pain, but cutting thick card is much worse.
  4. CDW
    I remember now that I bought these when first considering card modeling years ago. I have never used them before but will now have a reason. How often do you use the dapping set and what do you use them for?
  5. CDW
    After I saw the photo Chris posted, I started to recall that I had bought a set of those tools some years back, Probably after reading where Danny was using them. I found them stashed away. 🤓
  6. CDW
    Thanks again. Did not know about the dashed vs solid fold lines although I have seen both on my kit.
  7. CDW
    Thanks Chris. Does it make a difference which side of the card you score? Intuition tells me to score the side where the fold goes up, regardless of if it's printed or blank.
  8. CDW
    I watched a video where a card modeler was using a scoring tool to mark the card in the locations where folds are to be made. The scoring enables a smooth clean fold. The tool was similar to an empty ball point pen. It has caught my interest and I will try it later on parts that need folding to see how it works.
  9. CDW
    I don’t have the folding technique mastered yet. The rolling technique, not even close. Mine look like a roll/fold hybrid mess. Getting the roll started seems to be the trick.
  10. CDW
    Wow, that’s eye popping Alan. Camo looks great as does the entire model. Very interesting conversation piece of aviation history.
  11. CDW
    I found that rolling the little pieces into tubes was tricky. I ended up saving what’s left of my sanity by substituting plastruct rod.
  12. CDW
    Slow going, this is where I am in the process. It should go a little faster until I get to the part where I need to cut all the wing and stabilizer ribs/spars. Oh yeah, the radial engine looks like a lot of fun, too.
  13. CDW
    Finer than frog hair. Beautiful model EG
  14. CDW
    Ain’t that the truth. I’ve collected so many paint supplies it’s hard to keep it all organized and to remember what I’ve got.
  15. CDW
    I kept the outer limits of the framing consistent with the printed parts so it shouldn’t make a difference. Yeah I knew they were a tad too wide/tall
  16. CDW
    I just saw that Zoukei Mura 1:48 F-4G’s will be available in the USA this month. Should be a great kit if their previous F-4’s are any indicator. I am debating whether to preorder one this week.
  17. CDW
    Yes, that’s right! I forgot about her (how could I?). She built incredibly detailed card model ships. Doris was her name maybe?
  18. CDW
    The printed parts in the photo are marked in the booklet with an asterisk, signifying they are to be pasted to a 1mm card before assembly. The structure I built from balsa is what these parts should look like after assembly. Trouble is, you won’t get that if assembled that way. The horizontal pieces would be double the desired thickness and then the skins wouldn’t fit. Nowhere in the instructions give the modeler this heads-up. The only way to discover it is by careful examination of all the parts in the assembly, multiple steps ahead. It’s sorta like playing chess. I can see why few modelers choose this medium, but maybe this kit is just an anomaly. I really don’t know since it’s my first card model.
  19. CDW
    After getting a late start on my model, immediately began to realize the start I made needed alteration and improvising. I did not realize at first the designer intended the white areas between the brown colored framework was intended to be cut out, leaving only a framework of approximately 1/16th inch all around. Since I had bonded the printed card to 1mm chipboard this was going to require much cutting I was not prepared to do. As Chris warned me, my 1 mm chipboard is difficult to cut and for me in particular, difficult to maintain a straight cut without butchering it. So I decided to build my 1/16 framework from 1/16 inch balsa stock I had on hand. My photo shows the balsa framework in progress as I glue it together over the printed parts and pin it down to keep its shape until dry. This is a common technique for building balsa model airplanes as many of you probably know. I think it will turn out much neater this way.
  20. CDW
    Glad to see you're back on this big, beautiful bird!
  21. CDW
    Either Mr Color or Tamiya for lacquer, and Humbrol for enamel. Scalehobbyist dot com carries the full line of Mr Color, Tamiya lacquers, and Humbrol enamels. Great service, low prices, and they don't add sales tax.
  22. CDW
    A few drops of flow improver in your paint cup will help prevent "tip drying". This is where paint dries on the tip of the airbrush needle and eventually stops the flow of paint. Acrylic paints like Vallejo are much friendlier for low odor, but sometimes give me fits through my airbrush. It seems like it's always a battle to get the right mixture of thinner to paint and in general are more difficult to use than the smelly lacquer and enamel paints. That's why you will almost always see me using lacquer, but I know it's not a good option for everyone. Maybe one day I will master acrylic paints but I have not done so yet.
  23. CDW
    Jack The Vallejo Model Color paints are much thicker than the Vallejo Model Air paints. The model Air paints are designed to go straight from the bottle into the airbrush without any thinner at all, but I usually end up adding a few drops of thinner anyway. The Model Color paints are well suited for brush painting but if you are going to shoot them through the airbrush you will need to experiment with more thinner until you get the right viscosity. I have not used the Model Color range through my airbrush so I cannot say with any confidence exactly how much may be required, but if you started with a 50-50 mix of thinner to paint, just bump it up by measured increments (drops) until you get the results you want. Practice on scrap plastic or even paper. I wouldn't be surprised if you end up with 60% thinner in the Model Color paints. Your mixed paint should move through the airbrush just fine with 20 psi if you have the right ratio of thinner to paint.
  24. CDW
    To be fair, there are some compelling reasons to manufacture your own weapons systems. Doesn’t necessarily mean you will do it better but it does give some better control of the supply chain. No one has a monopoly on intellect, but resources and finances are another matter.
  25. CDW
    Do you guys remember Danny, the card modeler/moderator from Australia? His work was phenomenal and what first drew my attention to what was possible with card modeling. He and Chris are guys that that have inspired me to at least give this medium a try. I’ll have fun even if I screw it up. I’ll chalk it up as a learning experience.

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