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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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There is no one good answer to that question. Sometimes it's best to prime and paint first. Other times, it's best to paint in place. However, that primer I showed you is the least prone to crack of anything else I have used. But it's not crack-proof. You're going to find that sometimes painting after it's all bent and assembled is not practical for a number of reasons. As an example...the outer railings I will paint first before installing on the model. Why? Because I will have already placed the wood deck and the rest of the model will be painted before installing those railings. If I tried to paint them after installing, I would get paint in places where I don't want paint to be.- 174 replies
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I have not found any primer or paint that does not crack when bending the photo etch. If you do, let me know. I just touch up as needed with a brush after it's all done.
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First thing I do is wash the plastic and photo etch parts in a mild solution of water and dish washing liquid. Spray the photo etch parts with a metal primer. Modify the plastic parts as required then apply the photo etch. Dry fit the superstructure components for painting. After painting, disassemble then add the wood deck stickers.
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Add some masts, radar arrays, build and detail some boats, then will be ready to do some painting.
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I definitely want to hear about your progress with that machine once you get underway, EG.
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Thank you Roger. Yes, it is a USA manufactured glue called Gator Grip Gator’s Grip Hobby Glue – Gator's Model Studio (gatorsmodelstudio.com) I use the Thin Blend type. It's possible that a shop in your country may carry this item in inventory. It is not an instant set. However, it usually holds the PE to the location placed by surface tension, then it sets up in minutes. I like it because it's easily cleaned up with water, can be diluted, and gives me the extra time I need to position the parts where I want them. But there are times when I want an instant set, then I use CA glue for that.
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My Cuban cousin does that a lot. 😄 Of course, the other thing to make sure of, and you probably already have done this: Check to make sure that there is no excess friction, wobble, anything mechanical that could be a potential source of unwanted movement. When we're dealing with tolerances of fractions of a mm, just the slightest thing can cause it to be outside of tolerance.
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Thanks Alan, with this, I had to give it a rest for a while for the eyes to become uncrossed.
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Well, yes they do. The first link I posted (see above a few posts up) was for the WW2 version, but I completely understand that you might not be interested.
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Here is a 1:350 Tamiya 1991 USS Missouri that was built using the Pontos set, along with details from Infini, right here on MSW
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Looks like the new airbrush is working well for you. You enjoying it?
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Do you have a link to those videos? I am curious to see what is totally wrong.
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Okay, that's better...Spruebrothers are a very good USA online hobby seller. Phantom Phreaks are a company who manufacture decals, particularly F-4 Phantom decals. It seems that they are taking on a joint venture to produce a new line of 1:32 F-4 Phantoms. Awesome! That's going to be a very costly undertaking on their part. Hope it pays off well for them.
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Here's one without the wood deck: PONF22002 1:200 Pontos Model Detail Up Set - USS Missouri BB-63 1945 without Wood Deck (TRP kit) - Sprue Brothers Models LLC Scratch that. It's 1:200 scale
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This: BB-63 USS Missouri Model Kit | Detail Set For Tamiya (freetimehobbies.com) Only one I see for WW2, but it's 1945 and includes a wood deck which you already have.
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There is nothing to indicate who it's from except a logo that's unknown to me. Just CAD drawings, an idea. Not even a prototype yet.
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Who is that from? Looks interesting for sure.
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I know about the 1:48 Phantoms, but have not heard about 1:32
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It's been a long, long time since anyone came out with a new tool 1:32 Phantom. I was just thinking about how long the 1:32 Tamiya F-4's have been around.
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The gangways (not certain what they are called) that lead off each side of the superstructure are extremely thin. So much so, they will break apart without so much as a gentle bend which are necessary to complete construction. Even with great care, these could become a loss. Will certainly be lost if they are “bumped” during the final construction or painting stages.
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Roger The handrails are glued on without any holes drilled using acrylic adhesive.
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Looks great OC! Colorful uniforms and life-like
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The above superstructure piece will be representative of a number of such sub assemblies where some of the parts are dry fitted while the photo etch is securely glued in place. Once all the sub assemblies are ready, they will all be dry fitted together in one big superstructure, painted, disassembled, wood deck stickers added, then glued back together for final assembly and detailing.
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