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CDW

NRG Member
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Everything posted by CDW

  1. The invention of the "Bobcat" skid steer front end loader was the single greatest tool invention for this old barn cleaner. 😄
  2. Alan Another thing I remembered...next time you have the machine apart, check to make sure the long threaded rods that control your vertical axis are perfectly straight and not the slightest bent. I recall that was an issue I found that was causing my first printer to lose its level. Also, make sure the gears and belt that drives the horizontal movement are top quality. All those things add up to a better, more precise experience in the long run.
  3. I just completed an email exchange with Kenny and he still is making custom paint masks and water slide decals. So...the suggestion I gave to Yves remains valid. Write Kenny and he can help you with a set of custom paint masks.
  4. I'm anxious to see your Hood when it arrives, and am betting that Flyhawk has worked wonders with their new molds.
  5. I got so excited seeing your painted model I missed your question in my earlier post. Write an email to Kenny Loup, gatorsmask@yahoo.com Tell him what you are doing, then give him the size and font you want for your mask. Kenny specializes in painting masks and is the maker of Gators Grip acrylic glue.
  6. Testing another photo box...a white one. Would have preferred a light pastel blue but they were out of that color foam board.
  7. If "build templates" are what you're after, let me know what you are looking for. I literally have hundreds of flying scale model aircraft plans in PDF format, but the Wright Flyer I do not have. The model was not designed for flying, just for display.
  8. None of the balsa kit companies are keen on sending out plans for their kits. Too many modelers would scratch build the model using only the plans. They are in business to make money and they cannot make money that way. Your best bet is to find someone who has built the model and no longer needs the plans. Suggestion: join the forum called "RC Groups" (rcgroups.com) and then ask for anyone who would be willing to sell or loan you a set of plans for the model. You would be surprised how much help you'll get as long as you post in the correct forum.
  9. I hope to finish the ship's boats, props and rails this week, then install some rigging and call this project finished.
  10. Added the Admiral’s ladders and the 32’ cutter davits on port and starboard sides. Added the 1st breakwater.
  11. I use this Iwata product for lubrication of my airbrushes as I reassemble them after cleaning. In very light quantities.
  12. The very best spray cans I ever used were of DuPont automotive lacquer paints, but I have not seen those cans available in many years. An adjustable flow nozzle sounds very unique. I am not familiar with any spray paint cans that have this feature, but I am going to have a look to see.
  13. Whether you buy one pre-made, or make one yourself, you will want it to have lights, a turn table, and a fan that vents the air to blow outside your window using ductwork as seen in this item advertisement from Amazon. Amazon.com: VIVOHOME Portable Airbrush Paint Spray Booth Kit with 3 LED Lights Turn Table and Filter Hose for Model Cake Craft Nail Toy Part
  14. Alan I should have mentioned to be sure to buy one that matched your print bed size/range. Once I started using that pad, it solved my issue of the print coming off the print plate. I tried glue sticks, hair spray, and just about everything else, to no avail. One day I visited a 3D print shop here in Tampa and they turned me on to the need for a pad. That did the trick. Hate to say it in fear I may jinx you, but filament coming off the spool smoothly is another area of failure. Several times I had issues where the filament would get hung up, similar to what happens on a fishing reel...a bird's nest backlash sort of thing. We have to trust the filament has been wound onto the spool from the factory so as to not be "crossed". I think it's very easy to accidentally get the filament out of sorts when you finish one print job and use the same spool to start another print. Unless great care is taken, that filament can become wound underneath itself and as a print job progresses, it comes to a point where it can no longer come off the spool.
  15. Oh, by the way, I tried out Mig Ammo One Shot primer for the first time on the photo etch ammo lockers seen in the previous photos. The primer is (gray or black) acrylic, and it seems to cover photo etch very well with no tendency to peel or flake off.
  16. One inexpensive change you can make is to use a mirror instead of the glass bed that came with your machine. Mirror glass is much flatter and less likely to be deformed. Also, cannot emphasize enough how much difference a build pad can make. Like this for instance: 3D Printer Magnetic?Hot Bed Sticker Pads for Ender-3 Build Surface 235 X 235 MM | eBay
  17. Alan Sounds like your extruder is too far away from the print bed. If too far away, the filament cools too quickly and does not adhere well to the bed. If it's too close, the extruder will push the filament on the bed. PS: At one time, I had all kinds of problems with my project moving off the print bed and tried all sorts of things to correct the problem. Finally, I bought a print pad and that solved my adhere issue. The print pads are cheap and it's worth a try if you cannot get your issue sorted out. Printing directly on glass just did not work well for me.
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