JeffT

Rick, welcome to MSW. Good to have you aboard. 

Hi Rick, welcome to MSW.   
 
You've made a good choice for a first build.  I hope you'll do a build log as it's a great way to get help with questions and also to meet others.

Hello Rick, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'.
 
John

Hi all! Been lurking on this site since I retired a year ago and have seen many awesome builds that are very inspiring. But first a little about me. I’ve been modeling ever since I can remember and started with plastic. Being my father was an avid  R/C modeler, I quickly followed in his footsteps, so building is in my blood. I’ve won several modeling contest in plastic and a few at National R/C trade shows, mostly in scale helicopters. Back in my early 20s, I tried to build a I believe a Billings Cutty Sark, of course with no ship modeling skills, I failed miserably. I never lost the burning desire to build ship models and built several R/C boats, including submarines. Now that I’m retired and more patient, the time has come to dive into this world. For my entire working life, I worked in the jet engine field as a supervisor/manager mostly in overhaul and repair for commercial and military engines. It was a fantastic career for over 40 years. 
 
With this being said, I’ve decided to start with Chuck’s Medway Longboat as it ticks off a lot of boxes for me. I think there’s enough complexity without being overwhelming, new wood working skills and mostly some simple rigging will be a great starting point. Plus I just love the subject! I already have the kit and have read all of the logs, and will be adding mine. I’ll probably start after the holidays when things settle down and I look forward to making new friends here!

Best Regards ….
Freebird, aka also known as Rick

CAF are legitimate.
In fact, we'll have a review for Parts 1 & 2 of their 1:48 HMS Granado POF on MSW very soon.

I get mine from amazon.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SKVDD0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Is this it: https://cafmodel.com/products/hms-barge-40

I get mine from amazon.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SKVDD0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I was asked to do a short intro. So here we go. I am new to any forum let alone this one, so if I make a mistake please correct me. I have always been interested in modeling during my youth. I worked as a guard in maximum security prisons for twenty years. The last 7 I was Sargent in k-9 unit with German Shepard attach dog, and a yellow lab as drug detection dog. After retiring from that I started my own business in new home construction and home remolding. Retired from that three years ago due to back issues. Just went through Third and hopefully last back surgery.

Welcome to MSW 

Welcome to MSW 

Tom, welcome to MSW. I hope you heal quickly and completely. 

Welcome to MSW, Tom.
 
Moved to appropriate area.   I suggest you do a short intro of yourself also in this topic.  
 
As for planking, do you have the plans?  There are planking tutorials available here to help..  top of the page under the "More" heading.

I just went through major back surgery and there is little I will be able to do this winter. So I decided to complete a Mantua Victory 776 double plank 1:98 model that I started when I had my last back surgery in 2008. I am at the planking stage. I somehow lost pages 3-4 of the build sheet.
 
Are there anymore pages? I have 1-2, 4-5
Are there any for sale?
any help will be appreciated.

Thank you Rusty, but things don't always go well as you will see below. 🙄
 
Post Forty
 
A step backwards.
Just as I was getting ready to  finish the hull my eye was drawn to the forward end of the Garboard strake on the Port side and the two adjacent planks to it.
 
The finish against the stem wasn’t good enough and no minor filling however well matched would mask the deficiency.
The problem was caused by the protective tape on the stem overlapping the inner edge resulting in a fractionally short fit against the stem.
 
Nothing for it but to remove sections of planking and replace.

1297

1298

1300
Marking a template for the Garboard replacement.

1308

1309
The removals went better than I could have hoped greatly assisted by Swann-morton chisel blades, and carefully applied Acetone to assist with ca de-bond.

1306(2)
These chisel blades are perfectly sized for delicate work and very sharp.

1313
A mornings work and the issue is resolved.
 
There is very little on a wooden model that can’t be rectified and where it is possible it is always a good idea to go back, otherwise these things tend to catch your eye forever.
 
 
B.E.
25/11/21
 
 

Welcome to MSW 

I've been anxious to see what the delicate breast rail and fife rails will look like. The kit provides two complete sets of pear wood balustrades for the breast rail. I was able to shape these six supports without pinging one into the ether...still, it was comforting to know that if I'd bunged a couple, there were more at the ready. The kit includes many duplicate laser-etched pieces as spares.
 

Fastening the lower and upper rails requires a light touch to get all pieces aligned. After gluing the balustrades while ensuring they were perfectly perpendicular to plumb and all aligned to the transverse on the beam, the top breast rail fit perfectly; I also used my thumb drill to align the hammock crane holes in all four pear patterns. The top rail is two laminated pattern pieces that required clamps to set correctly. Again, I used scrap pieces under the mini-alligators to keep from marring the smooth wood.
 

The completed breast rail. This is one of a number of very attractive aspects of this model. The manual shows all the elements of this item painted in black. I chose to keep the upright balustrades as well as the top rail in natural pear which I have stained with Natural Minwax. The holes at the top hold the hammock cranes when they're installed later.
 

A close-up of the breast rail. The delicate shape to the laser-etched 2mm thick balustrades was demanding; time-consuming and twitchy due to their small size and the delicate sections. I spent 3 hours fashioning these 6 pieces. I am pleased with the result, the time was worth it.
 

Even Lord Cochrane thinks it's a good idea to hang out by Lady Camilla's fancy breast rail...😂...
 

The basic belfry assembly at the foc'sle deck's edge. A cleverly-designed, and nicely detailed little thing, this is. I may paint it black as shown in the plans, but I'm not certain yet. I may keep it in natural pear after fixing the tiny alignment holes (at the top) with stainable filler. Also, the cleats (lower portion) will be replaced with extras from thicker stock. There will be rigging lines attached to these cleats and I want them sturdier than the thin ones shown here. The belfry supports I will likely paint black regardless of my decision on the finish for the belfry. 
 

 
Vanguard Models includes nice"surprise" goodies with their kits - like this useful coaster that supports a Peroni beer every once in a while...🤪
A previous photo that shows the nicely-molded scale figure of Lord Cochrane came with an earlier kit I purchased from Vanguard. I also received a paperback novel in another kit (the story of Captain Cochrane). Nice perks, Chris (Watton)...much appreciated.
 
Ron
 
 

I think I have the stern fixed.  Still needs a bit of shaping which is in work.   I couldn't remove the underlayment for both pieces as I'd CA'd them.   Bad on me.   But the upper parts are where they should be. The lower one is now where it should be.  Here's pics of the stern as fixed.  I'll have to do some fettling for the windows but I accept that.   I've also learned that wood this thin is delicate and need to remember to have a lighter touch.


 

Welcome Lauren. No worries, you'll fit right in here.

Welcome Lauren. No worries, you'll fit right in here.

Progress on the Q'deck.

A balustrade on the q'deck, shaped and mounted (finger for scale). It is upright, parallel to the  vertical, not cocked; my camera was at a slight angle. There are six of these little guys. The first one took me about 30 minutes to shape the lasered pearwood pattern. Five more to go!
 

Better "upright" view of a balustrade. The manual says to paint them black. I'll likely leave them in stained natural wood if they all turn out this nicely after shaping. The natural wood tone will emphasize the shapes of these delicate pieces; black paint would partly disguise their attractiveness. This one of my favorite parts of a build for ships of this era. Art and design mattered to the craftsman and the officers alike, nearly as much as speed and firepower of these hunter-seekers.
 
 

The tools I use to shape the delicate pear pieces. Gentle curves and squared-off angles: diamonds (and patience) can be a ship modeler's best friend. Take your time with these little guys; they will be quite prominent when completed, whether black or natural.
 

A work-in-progress midships view. Eyebolts and cleats mounted along the q'deck bulwarks. I'm contemplating a couple critical decisions now: whether to add a slightly darker stain to the quarterdeck and whether or not to stick with my original plan to build-up the bulwarks on the quarterdeck so that Camilla can carry four additional, new-fangled carronades.
 
The thin fife rails along the entire length of the quarterdeck are very appealing to my eye. I've tested "the look" of the delicate woodworking pieces and studied the temporarily placed timberheads against the overall lines of the hull; I'm now less inclined to add these carronade "upgrades" to her. NOTE: the P/E hammock cranes along the q'deck bulwarks are NOT SHOWN in the manual prototype build - but shown prominently on the plans). Decisions, decisions.
 

My same technique for gluing the sweeping quarterdeck gunwales to the bulwarks: nails and clamps exerting downward force so the gunwales are evenly attached along the entire length of the pear wood pattern- on both sides. Post gluing (white glue BTW), the nails are removed. The nails were inserted into drilled holes, unlike the foc'sle gunwales patterns that have lasered holes for these temporary positioning pins. Doesn't matter: the little mounting holes will be filled with stainable filler, sanded and then painted flat black.
 

The capstan and a q'deck look-in. The manual calls for painting both capstans in red (to match the interior bulwarks). I prefer a natural look to all these components. I retained the red as a minimal contrast to the interior and the thin "line" on the exterior bulwark sweep. Like gold paint, less is more. The brass pins on the capstan's cam locks will be painted black., the über-delicate pear wood ladder will be stained natural. As I've noted previously, I paint, stain, and finish as I build. Don't forget to "break" all the sharp edges of the lasered pear, like the capstan drum head components, the coamings and grates.
 
 

The stern transom support: the Q'deck- to - bulwark/gunwale connection. This piece is tricky to get right as it needs a reverse, double sanded angle to fit correctly. The clamp is holding the gunwale firmly in-place as the glue dries. The brass nail had a positioning hole drilled into the wood to secure the gunwale after glue was applied. All this to prevent this piece from rising-up and having visible gaps. Speaking of which: the tiny gap between the bulwarks finishing strip and the deck I can live with. It's about .002-003 under this magnification. Despite this minor annoyance, the tolerances with many of the components of this kit are impressive.
 

The leading timberheads at the Quarterdeck. The thin edges will get painted black with a smaller brush better suited for this task than the one I used to get the black on the larger surfaces. DON'T FORGET TO GIVE CHARACTERISTIC SHAPE TO THESE four pear wood pieces; all the "heads" along the gunwales require precise shaping to render an accurate depiction of these utilitarian posts.
 
 
Another close-up of the transom area. In keeping with my visual preferences, there is no red paint here. Because my one-piece quarterdeck pattern didn't fit flush to the angled transom, there was a small gap (noted in the previous post). I added two pieces of 1mm square section of pear to either side of the ensign mounting base at the deck. Looks fine, like it belongs.😉

Thanks for the likes and comments.
 
Making more progress, slowly but still moving forward.   I've installed the gallery framing and also the first stern fascia.  Had some issues but my fault for not noting that the stern needs to be higher than the pics at this point show.  The note is later in the build,,,,, doooooh .  Broke a few bits off moving it but I'll add them back on before the covering piece.  There is some misfit with the counter blank as I think I set it too low but I think a bit of fill, sanding, and then the paint at the appropriate time will fix that.
 
I'll holding off painting the wales for a bit until I get the rest of the galleries set up.  I'm not fond of gluing things to paint which includes the gallery lower finishing pieces.

Lauren, welcome to MSW, we have room for all. Thank you for your service. 

I have been in love with model ship building sense the 60's with plastic models. I still love the feeling of opening up a box of a new ship and seeing what I am getting into. Each one has been like getting a surprise present under the Christmas tree. I went into the Navy and now I am a disabled Vet who finally broke out my antique modeling tools, blow off some dust, and trying to get back into ship modeling. Back into my time the big plastic ships like the scale of 1/96 in sailing ships to 1/350 in modern Naval ships were the big ticket. I hope no-one minds that I still enjoy working with plastic ship but challenging my skills once more each one more realistic than the last one. I am now in my 60's so if I seem out of phase with everyone else on building models I just need to learn all the new advances that the modeling world has to offer now.

Just ordered session 1 of this kit.....lots on the shelf, but happy to add this to the pile!
hamilton