JeffT

Another update: I've finally finished rigging the guns, installing pin racks, and installing chocks. I still have a few deck details that need to be finished such as the steps on the interior transom and bow area and the fife rails. I'm going to make a list and try to organize into what order I should do them in. I also need to finish the top gallant rail.
 
 
 


 

Another update: I've finally finished rigging the guns, installing pin racks, and installing chocks. I still have a few deck details that need to be finished such as the steps on the interior transom and bow area and the fife rails. I'm going to make a list and try to organize into what order I should do them in. I also need to finish the top gallant rail.
 
 
 


 

Another update: I've finally finished rigging the guns, installing pin racks, and installing chocks. I still have a few deck details that need to be finished such as the steps on the interior transom and bow area and the fife rails. I'm going to make a list and try to organize into what order I should do them in. I also need to finish the top gallant rail.
 
 
 


 

Looks Great!  The deck turned out amazing, you should be very proud of how it is turning out.  It will be quite the show piece when finished.
 
Ziggy

Another update: I've finally finished rigging the guns, installing pin racks, and installing chocks. I still have a few deck details that need to be finished such as the steps on the interior transom and bow area and the fife rails. I'm going to make a list and try to organize into what order I should do them in. I also need to finish the top gallant rail.
 
 
 


 

I hear that the Master shipwright version is limited to 20 kits and as I understand they will be gone soon, so better hurry!! ;-) 

More photos coming up when the 1st planking is finished!

Hello everyone,  I've gone and done it.!! Bought the plans, set up the build log, printed the bulkhead patterns. 
Just don't know where I'm going to find the time or space for this one though.
Thanks for having me 👍😀 
 

Thank You!!!
 
I added the columns to the QGalleries.  The top and bottom of the columns were done using a scraped strip of boxwood.  Basically you scrape the strip like you would make a molding.  Then cut off tiny pieces that become the top and bottom of each column.  You still must file the sape on each side to finish it off.  This was a 3/32" x 3/64" boxwood strip.
 
Then the fluted column was added between these two pieces to complete each column.  These are laser cut from .025" thick boxwood.  They have laser etched flutes.  
 
Note how just a small strip of blue remains on each side of the columns.  I will start working on the other side so now so I complete the galleries at the same time.  Then I will put the shingled roof on each qgallery.
 

beauteful... hats off☺
 
svein erik

To close up the Qgalleries, I  started by adding the top.  This is laser cut (1/16" thick)  It is important to create the same angle as the bottom.  This was marked with the paper template earlier.  You can see my tick marks in pencil.  Getting this angle correct is crucial just like the bottom of the Qgalleries.  Otherwise your windows wont fit well.  The aft edge needs to be beveled to sit flush against the transom.
 

Next we need to put in the uprights between each window.  These are two layers of 3/64" thick laser cut strips.  One layer is slightly wider than the top layer.  This forms a rabbet on both sides when glued together as shown below.  You will need four of these on each side.  Clean the laser char off each layer before you glue them together.
 

You should also paint the top face of these blue before you start shaping them.  Yes you will need to touch these up later but this helps.  I am using cerulean blue acrylic paint.  It is a pretty good match to the friezes.  You can see these four pieces glued into position below.  One note.....the two outside pieces dont have a rabbet on the outside edges.  They were sanded away.  The rabbet is used to catch the windows when they are inserted later.  In fact, how do you know where these should go so they are spaced the proper distance apart.  Use the laser cut windows as a guide.  I started by gluing the two outside pieces on first.  Then I positioned a window temporarily so I knew where the next one went.  Do this carefully so all your windows fit.  Its good to do a dry fit first.  Use rubber cement to temporary hold the uprights in position.  
 

 
Another important note....the forward upright has a very drastic bevel on its forward edge so it fits snug against the planking.  I also left each upright a bit longer and once glued in place, I sanded them flush with the top.  It should look like this when you are done...but the windows are NOT glued in at this point.  Dont do that yet....
 
You will also notice that these uprights stand proud of the transom edge....that is OK and by design.  It should stand proud by one layer or 3/64" along the transom.
 

Then we had to insert the top above each window.  There are two layer remember?  But you seriously only need to put the outside layer on.  Its OK to leave a gap because the roof (with its shingles) will cover those gaps.  I used 7/32" wide x 3/64" thick strips.  This is wider than you will need.  But after getting the angles correct and they are glued in position, you can sand the tops down flush like the uprights.
 

Lastly....we need to add the fancy molding along the top edge of the Qgallery.  It is scraped like the others and is also 1/8" wide and 3/64" thick.
You will need to bend this to get it to lay against the surface properly.  I also had to file out the aft edge of the molding so the figure would fit.  I used a sharp miniature chisel actually after the molding was glued into position.  I think you can see what I did so the shoulder of the figure would fit.
 


To finish it up I will have to add the fancy fluted columns in between the windows next...but I ran out of steam and will do that during the week. 😊
 

Just a small update...I have put the seats in the galleries.  This means I can start closing them up next.  The seats are made of two laser cut pieces that are 1/32" thick.   The front panel and the top.   You still need to bevel and tweak the edges for the best fit.
 

The only downside is that MDF is quite fragile. When i dryfitted the deck i managed to break two of these. I glued it back together so no problem in the end. However these really smal parts probably had been better in the pearwood.  

As i said earlier, its a small kit... here you can see it in comparison with my Granado and Snake.

Just look at the difference between my Diana kit and the Speedy! Lasercut pear is the way to go :-). You basically dont have to trim anything. It just fits making the build so much faster. 

Just had word from the Italians regarding Speedy PE. It will be ready for me to pick up from Italy on 5th (next Thursday), so will receive the parts  a couple of days after this. I need to then prepare each set for the kits and simply add them to the already made up kits for each customer. All Speedy's will be shipped between 10th-13th December, so all in time for Christmas.

It’s a temptation worth giving into 🙂

This is progressing quite Speedily...

The first step is quite easy so i wont describe everything. Just cut out the skeleton from 3 sheets and glue it together. It just took me a couple of hours.  Its in MDF and very precisely lasercut. I am used to work with ply so MDF is completely new to me. You dont need to trim anything. Its like laying a puzzle. Just be careful since MDF is not that strong and you dont want to break anything.

Here is what the frieze with the name looks like tested on the model.  Its a little crooked but this is just a test...its not glued on yet.   I think this one is the winner.  Thank you David for helping me with the font. It looks very good and much better than my attempts.
 

I have used regular copy paper in the past.  It works fine.  But I am toying around with the idea of experimenting with acid free tissue paper.  Its the same stuff that I use for flags.  In theory it will be easier to hide the cut edges and fold it in place.  Then trim off the excess.  But that is just a theory.  I will try it out tonight.  This test was just done with plain old copy paper.  You can see how the edge turns white after cutting.  I usually use a soft pastel pencil to color this edge....but I am thinking this wont be needed with the tissue paper.
 

 
Chuck

Looks like a great kit. I'm feeling tempted

Somehow it has been a year since the last update.  We spent a year renovating a house and moved last February, and it took a little while to set up the workshop.   I seem to be back in some sort of building rhythm since last month.  Outside details are done including chain plates and all the moldings and rails.  Chain plates were a big step forward for me in terms of metal work and silver soldering.  They were an experiment in copper so I could shape them around the deadeyes and blacken them in place with liver of sulfur.  Deadeyes are ebony.
The pumps were a challenge.  Someplace along the way (probably about 3 years) ago I miscalculated on the path of the pump shafts and they ended up a few millimeters further inboard of the bitt pins than they should have been.  I also had some of the decorative shaping on the bitt pins at the same height that the rhodings needed to be attached.  I ended up adding some shims between the rhodings and the bitt pins.  Hopefully some 18th century shipwright had the same problem and solved it the same way.  The pump shafts and rhodings are brass.  My silver soldering continues to get better, and Greg’s post about metal blackening, particularly the sparex, was unbelievably helpful getting chemical blackening I was happy with.
I have an old Vanda Lay duplicator for my lathe.  It has sat in a drawer since a really frustrating attempt to duplicate brass cannon barrels on my last model, which was an epic fail.  I tried it again on the quarterdeck balustrades, and found that it works really well on wood.
Base, pedestals, and quarterdeck beam are also done.  I’m a gun, quarterdeck breastwork, and ladder away from finishing.

Here is a photo of the frieze with the name
 

 

Looks like a great kit. I'm feeling tempted

Looks like a great kit. I'm feeling tempted