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JeffT
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About JeffT
- Birthday 02/20/1964
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It does the first coat but sand down subsequent coats won't raise the grain. I usually do a second and third coat. -
JeffT reacted to a post in a topic:
Wood Sealer Prior to Using Acrylic Paint
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Important notice about a fraud using AL
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Water based poly has worked well for me.
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HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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JeffT reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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JeffT reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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JeffT reacted to a post in a topic:
Tapering Masts and Arms the easy way
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Artesanía Latina - News and information
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Artesanía Latina - News and information
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Artesanía Latina - News and information
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JeffT reacted to a post in a topic:
Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates Volume 2
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JeffT reacted to a post in a topic:
Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates Volume 2
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Artesanía Latina - News and information
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Artesanía Latina - News and information
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US tariff effect for US buyers
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Ithink the cost may vary depending on vendor. For example, I noticed on ALs online store that they say they cover the US import tariff.
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Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build
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HMS Victory Anatomy Version by JeffT - Artesania Latina - 1/84
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I agree. they should definitely flicker. Its about learning a new skill as I've never had a reason to solder anything before.
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HMS Victory Anatomy Version by JeffT - Artesania Latina - 1/84
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HMS Victory Anatomy Version by JeffT - Artesania Latina - 1/84
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HMS Victory Anatomy Version by JeffT - Artesania Latina - 1/84
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HMS Victory Anatomy Version by JeffT - Artesania Latina - 1/84
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Yes. Light does leak through that area.
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Pressing on with video 10. The orlop deck pieces are installed. The sections/openings all align with each other rather well and with the hold below. Quick mast check shows good alignment for the mast holes and other mounting areas below. I wasn't thrilled with the way the fore and aft sections come together. These little tabs were very fragile. I think I broke at least half a dozen of these during the dry fit. It also took quite a bit of tweaking to get the fore and aft sections to fit together. I ended up gluing some strips to the bottom of the forward deck sections so that the aft sections had something they could be glued to. Otherwise, there was no way to keep them together. Even with that, they just don't go together very well and there are gaps and they don't really align well. The result is not a good look but it is what it is. Other than that, the deck look good. Courtesy hold with LEDs lit pictures.
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Finally got all the LEDs done in the hold. Took a little while but its not a race I guess. I had a few redos along the way as I wasn't satisfied with the result. Still need to paint a few exposed wires inside to finish up and in the end, no one will know the wires are there. I am now complete through video 9. I think this is a much cleaner result in the end with a lot less wires to deal with. I was hesitant to do this at first, but now that's it done I'm happy that I did. The LEDs really add life to the model. You can see my take on the flour bags here as well. I had to move a few barrels around (second set up from the bottom of the picture) as there are a couple parts that extend down into that area of the hold from the orlop deck. This isn't addressed until video 11. A good set of plans would have been useful in making that known much sooner.
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JeffT replied to Dan Vadas's topic in - Index of all kits by brand and subject
Absolutely. -
Its been a little while since my last update. I've been watching a lot of videos on soldering and getting a little practice at it. After much thought I have come up with a method of wiring the LEDs that works well for me. I'm using only two wires for each set of bulbs. The AL groove tool doesn't create a groove that is large enough to house the wires and bulb leads, so the groove needs to be widened and deepened. The first thing I do is solder the wires to the starboard LED, trying to solder to the side of the lead. Then, for each wire, I use the soldering iron to burn off some insulation from the wires at the spot where they will be soldered to the second LED bulb. and them solder the wire to the LED. I drill a hole in the bottom of the beam to pass the wires through and then pass the wires through the planking. The location of the wires will make them nearly impossible to see from the open side of the hull and no big holes in the frames. 3 down and a bunch to go. I also stained the deck and added the small strips which are painted black.
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Excellent work.
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Something I've been thinking about also. Great job!
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Agreed! I have a plan and we'll see how it goes.
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Video 9 is complete. This structure was a bit more challenging than the first one. I have it separated into 3 sections. I feel like it will be a bit troublesome to try and glue this thing down to the deck as one piece. There are a few areas I still need to touch up with white paint yet. Reality is that you can't see much of this other than the extreme right area of the picture below. Moving on to video 10, there are a few more smaller structures to build for the orlop deck. The deck is glued into the model in this video. I'm not ready to do that yet. There are a couple things I still need to do in the hold first. One is the lighting and the other are the flour sacks. Once I finish these last few structures then I'll head back to that. One thing I've done in preparation for the lighting is acquired a smaller soldering iron more suited to the fine soldering needed and some finer solder. I'll practice the soldering a bit on some spare led diodes that I have before tackling that monster. For the flour sacks, I picked up some resin printed sand bags that I think will work. They are a bit smaller than those the kit has you make and seem more to scale to me. I really don't know for sure what size flour sacks were loaded on ships in those days though.
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I should add that I bend the parts before blackening.
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