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mikiek

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  1. mikiek
    That never happens, does it? You gotta love this hobby.....
  2. mikiek
    Yes, these help. However, I had to do quite a bit of filing on the inner elbow to bring the top part of the CH down. It was literally sticking out at almost 45 degrees. Now it's about 10-15 degrees, which looks more like yours. I notice you have a second knee brace on the side as well as the one underneath. Quick addition - I like the wood cleats. And your nibbing strake looks fantastic!
  3. mikiek
    Another cathead question. The plans show 3 sheaves at the top end of the CH. If I understand things, in real life that would have been a groove cut thru the cathead (well actually 3 grooves), a wheel inserted into the grove, held in place by a rod (axle) running from one side of the CH thru the wheels and out the other side of the CH??? Assuming this is correct, what is the proper rendition for a model? Do I cut the groove all the way thru? That doesn't sound right as I have no wheel to put in. What I was thinking was drilling 2 holes then cutting a slight groove in between them. This pic also shows how much of the CH I had to file in order for it to sit flush on the bulwark and on the rail.
  4. mikiek
    I had started what I thought might be a quick question on Darrell's Niagara thread. It is looking like the discussion may go on for a bit, so rather than hijack Darrell's log I am moving the comments to my log. Hope this works..... >> From: Mike Darrell - going back to your post #18, are your cathead shapes identical to the laser plywood parts? I'm asking because I just cut out the laser parts and they don't even begin to fit in place correctly. I did file out a notch for the rail. If the upper part of the CH sits flush on the rail then the lower part extends out and away from the inner bulwark. If I make the lower part sit flush on the bulwark then the upper part angles up a little and doesn't sit well on the rail. I'm trying to decide if I need to file out a big chunk at the inner elbow of the CH. Or maybe make one that's shaped to fit. << >>From: Joel Detail on sheet 3, lower right. The tail wants to be against the inner bulwark planking. The outer part should angle up and out. Make your notch to allow the full width of the cathead to sit on the rail. The small knee should help you determine the angles. << >>From: Mike Joel - what I am missing from the plans is a view from the bow looking aft. When I hold the tail to the inner bulwark, the other end sticks up at maybe a 30-40 degree angle. I got more confused then as several pix from build logs seem to show the outer part almost horizontal. If I let the upper piece lay horizontal then of course the tail does not touch the inner bulwark. It almost seems like the elbow of the cathead needs to be closer to a 90 degree angle - or those other pix are wrong. As far as the knee goes, it appears it should get some filing to get around the outer rail and to sit flush against the underside of the cathead. The instructions/plans don't say anything about doing that. <<
  5. mikiek
    Since it looks like I may have a number of questions reagarding the catheads I am moving this discussion over to my build log. Sorry Darrell, didn't mean to get your log off track.
  6. mikiek
    Skip - these applicators have been a great help in applying CA. The thin stuff is a little hard to work with but medium works well. The CA stays usable for a week or so in the apllicator. Also, my apologies Don for the reply about saw blades. I did not intend to get things off track. However I will say I learned something from them.
  7. mikiek
    I'll second that!
  8. mikiek
    Joel - what I am missing from the plans is a view from the bow looking aft. When I hold the tail to the inner bulwark, the other end sticks up at maybe a 30-40 degree angle. I got more confused then as several pix from build logs seem to show the outer part almost horizontal. If I let the upper piece lay horizontal then of course the tail does not touch the inner bulwark. It almost seems like the elbow of the cathead needs to be closer to a 90 degree angle - or those other pix are wrong. As far as the knee goes, it appears it should get some filing to get around the outer rail and to sit flush against the underside of the cathead. The instructions/plans don't say anything about doing that.
  9. mikiek
    Darrell - going back to your post #18, are your cathead shapes identical to the laser plywood parts? I'm asking because I just cut out the laser parts and they don't even begin to fit in place correctly. I did file out a notch for the rail. If the upper part of the CH sits flush on the rail then the lower part extends out and away from the inner bulwark. If I make the lower part sit flush on the bulwark then the upper part angles up a little and doesn't sit well on the rail. I'm trying to decide if I need to file out a big chunk at the inner elbow of the CH. Or maybe make one that's shaped to fit.
  10. mikiek
    Better late than never. I just picked up this kit, but it might be a while before I dive in. Lead on Bob.
  11. mikiek
    Don - question from an ignorant beginner, how many teeth in that saw blade? Looks like a fairly low count. I was under the impression that cutting thin strips required a high tooth count. From that, I have been using a 230 count blade. It cuts OK but the teeth really get gunked up.
  12. mikiek
    Hey, transom looks good. Don't know if your plans call for it but you could consider some sort of fashion piece. You would have to hand carve it but it is made to sit on that corner of the hull and transom to cover the joint. This pic might give you an idea what I'm talking about. I got to thinking about the half & half paint/copper idea. I believe several of us have suggested it, my reason was that I hate to see that beautiful wood covered up. What might look pretty nice instead would be to go ahead and copper both sides - doesn't it end right about at the waterline? Then stain (instead of paint) the remaining wood on both sides. A dark stain would give the impression of a black paint job but would add a rich look you just won't get with paint. Regarding the possible curve of the garboard. Don't forget that even if the gap does start to close up quicker than you anticipated, there are planking techniques to deal with that. A drop plank, where 2 planks turn into 1 right at the bow, can help that situation. I get the feeling you will probably have to do at least a few stealers as well. The deadwood area at the stern looks like it will end up wider than the rest of the hull. No fault of yours, just the design of the boat. I found the basic planking document in the MSW library very helpful in that regard. It gives a good description of what they called correction planks..
  13. mikiek
    Well said E.J.
  14. mikiek
    First off, that is some gorgeous wood! It's hard to say because pix don't show the 3D view very well. Not your fault, it's just the way it is. If anything, I would say the garboard may be extending into the bow a little too much. But you can judge that. The key is you don't want the garboard turning up at all at the bow. In your next to last pic it kinda looks like it might be turning up some - maybe just the camera angle. I can say from experience, if it goes too far into the bow (even if the GB looks level) the next strakes will start to turn up. One view you didn't show was your transom. How is that working out?
  15. mikiek
    Would look kinda cool but then reality sets in. That rail around the cockpit area would be annoying enough to have to step over to get to the wheel. If you had to step over and down? At nite?
  16. mikiek
    You're right Joel and that is a terrible habit of mine. I tend to build 1 assembly from start to finish. VERY inefficient! With these carronades, I'm doing my best to get all of 1 step done, i.e. cutting the hooks, before moving on to stropping them. Only problem is some of this stuff is so small I can only do a limited number before I start seeing double. On the good side, there is always lots of other unrelated tasks I can do when I need a break. You saying your Niagara has no guns?
  17. mikiek
    That's what we are all here for. After I get all the hooks cut and blocks reamed I will have to go back to all the inner bulwark fixtures. I have a terrible fear of missing something on the plans and not being able to fix it down the road. I'm not sure why, but the carronade thing really wore me out. I may put Niagara on the shelf for a few days and work on Enterprise a little bit - still in the very early stages on that one. The smell of different wood....
  18. mikiek
    Posted a pic in my log. One coat white primer, 2 coats Deck Tan.
  19. mikiek
    Well, here's what I have been doing the last few nites. I'm maybe about 1/3 finished. Picked up some true sprue cutters today. I'll see how they do at cutting out those PE hooks. A few weeks back I was questioning the kit belay pins. I had used a few for other purposes and so was a few short. Was debating more brass kit pins or move to wood pins instead. Brass pins need to be colored. Wood pins are not quite the same size. I ended up ordering more brass pins. Here's what they look like painted with Tamiya Deck Tan. Just one of hundreds of small decisions we make during the course of a build. In the background you can see a wood strip I drilled out to hold the pins (and cleats) while painting them
  20. mikiek
    Forgot to ask - Darrell how did you cut the camfers in the posts for the rails? I have really struggled to get 4 consistent cuts.
  21. mikiek
    I went back & forth - wood or brass as it didn't appear that I had enough kit supplied brass. Was going to go wood but a comment in a post I made said the wood can break. I ended up ordering more brass from Model Expo. They don't need any sizing just coloring. Tamiya has a Deck Tan that is about the color of a light wood. So I've ended up with the kit brass pin, painted. You gotta consider that once there is a big coil of rope hanging off, the actual pin will barely be visible.
  22. mikiek
    Nice idea with the curved blade Ken. Even better with the tape on the PE card. That is what's taking so long now - cut the part, lift up the card with knife, move the card, grap the tweezers, pick up part, put it in bowl, get card, get knife,....... With that tape I can just cut then move to the next part and cut again. I have literally several hundred hooks to cut out.
  23. mikiek
    Man - it seems as though another of my posts has been lost. To summarize that: 1. Decided on the part sizes for carronades. 3/32" single blocks 3mm brass photo etched hooks .008 black rope for stropping the hooks .012 light brown rope for tackle rigging .035 light brown rope for breech line .008 dark brown rope for seizing the breech line 2. I will be making 5 tackles per gun 2 for lateral adjustment 2 for running out 1 for hauling back 3. Eybolt pattern will be 1 on each side in the waterway; for lateral tackles 1 on each side about 3/16" out from port edge and 1/8" up from waterway; for breech line 1 on each side about 1/16" out from port edge and 3/16" up from waterway; for running out tackles 1 about 1" behind the lower carriage; for haul back tackle NOTE: this does not match the plans exactly but is close enough for me and a little easier to work with 4. I will be positioning the barrels almost fully hauled back. The breech line will be almost tight. 5. Had hoped to have all the tackes actually work - for demo purposes - but I'm not sure this is possible. Ropes don't slide thru blocks all that well which can put undo stress on the tackle rigs. So now it's a matter of getting the parts prepped for assembly. I will be reaming out the blocks, cutting and filing the hooks. I have to go visit my father in the hospital this weekend so I am taking the necessary equipment to do some of that there when there is time to kill. Speaking of photo-etched - this is my first experience with that. I have been cutting out the hooks with an Exacto but it is leaving small nubs on the parts which are rather difficult to file off. Does anyone have some suggestions on the best way to cut photo-etched (brass) parts?
  24. mikiek
    They look good Darrell. When you drop your deck in for a look have you pressed down around the deck edges? When you do that, the deck should end up with a crown that runs down the centerline. Highest at the centerline, lowest at the waterway. I mention this because you will need to sand the fore and aft base of your structures to fit over the crown. I feel your pain re the nickle and dime sized parts. Unfortunately, there seems to be no getting around it at this stage. You have the right idea by 'walking away' for a day or two.
  25. mikiek
    See if this works. Interesting history and some good artwork. Of course this is only one mans rendering after a lot of research. I do keep the pdf in my library.

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