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mikiek

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Everything posted by mikiek

  1. mikiek
    Probably not. If the pin has a snug fit (in the hole and the carriage) I think it will keep the carriage from moving. Also still not sure about gluing the sled to the carriage. With some solid hooks, all that tackle works. I think it would be cool to be able to show people. Maybe glue most of the sleds but leave a couple free for demos.
  2. mikiek
    Darrell - I'm with you. The historical version is what I am working towards. See page 7 post 129 of my log. Joel (jbshan) has 2 excellent write ups on the historical Niagara. He's done a lot of research and put together some interesting theories - all of which I buy into. There are a number of excellent books regarding the Battle of Lake Erie. Understanding the conditions and reasoning behind the building of Niagara has helped me shape the image of what I want my build to look like. My problem is/was that I had already started the build before I became aware of it all. If you are the book reading type I can dig up a few titles if you like.
  3. mikiek
    Hey Darrell - don't know if your kit had this but mine has 2 sizes of belaying pins. The majority of them I believe are for rigging. There are 20 that are a hair longer and thicker and I was considering using those. However they do stick up a little high. At the very least, I was probably going to cut the handles off some pins and use the pin part. I have the pics ready for the stropping demo. I'll try to write it up tonite. If I recall I think you said you had ordered some of the hooks. I hope they were the brass variety. I found the plastic type to be unsatisfactory for this type of use. They tear easily and if they have been stropped it is almost impossible to reuse the block. So you lose a hook and a block and have to re-reg the entire tackle.
  4. mikiek
    Thank you Elijah. That pitted look was the result of leaving the Britannia in the blackening solution longer than prescribed. I think overall I like the look too. The problem is I didn't do all the barrels then, so for consistency's sake I will have to try to duplicate the process for the rest of them.
  5. mikiek
    Well, I came to a completion of sorts. One carronade rigged up (in the mock gun station) with everything that I would like to show in my build. Some improvements are needed which I will mention below. Although, I have deviated from my schedule almost an entire weekend, I think the mock station was/is a good exercise. It allowed me to see quite a few combinations of ropes, blocks,etc. I have also learned a few do's and dont's regarding the gun instalation. It should make the actual installation more straightforward. I guess I'll go thru some pix with comments: Please excuse all the loose ropes in the tackles. I used photo etched hooks (the plastic type) and have found out the hard way they are too flimsy to take any stress - like pulling tight on a tackle. Too bad because I think they look great. I have some brass hooks on order. 5 tackles and a breech line per gun. 7 eyebolts with split rings. I mentioned in an earlier post I moved the lower port eyebolt outwards some. Plans call for them to be over each other, but I thought the tackle & breech line would interfere with each other. You can see now they have a bit of space between them. As far as part size, I ended up using what I tried originally. I'm pleased with the combination - I was able to get the complete rigging without taking up a lot of real estate. All these parts came from Syren Models: 3mm hooks .008 light brown rope for rigging .035 light brown rope for breech line 3/32" single blocks As I mentioned in my reply to Joel, I like the way the extra tackle line is handled in the pics he posted. Probably not battle ready but very tidy. I think it looks a lot better than coils - those always look a little contrived to me. As far as a real installation I think I will get some measurements between eyebolts for each tackle. Then, assuming the brass hooks are stronger, I can make a jig to hold 2 blocks at the proper distance to rig up. I can make them up at my convenience, a few at a time. With the hooks stropped to the blocks it would be a simple matter to install them - hook one end to a bulwark eyebolt, hook the other end to the gun. Speaking of jigs, I will do another post of how I stropped the 3mm hooks to the 3/32" blocks. I got a little smarter as I went on. Nothing new or revolutionary, just a combination of several techniques I have come across.
  6. mikiek
    So now it is simply Hurry up and wait (for the order)
  7. mikiek
    So maybe I'm on target there. That's good to hear! I really want to put all the rigging in as long as it looks OK In the 2nd pic I like how they stowed the extra rope on the upper tackle. Wrapped between the blocks rather than coiled on the deck. Less clutter. It also looks like a double block was used for the lower tackle. Your pix show more detail (and more rigging) than the mockups at the Niagara museum. Back out to the garage........
  8. mikiek
    Right on with the boxwood! One thing to keep in mind (a lesson I have learned) is the kit is a representation of the Niagara build of today. Choices were made, deviations implemented for modern times, smaller crew, etc. Building an exact replica was not possible as there is nothing but a few paintings and verbal descriptions of the original. The original colors were most likely not the colors seen on the replica. In fact there is one school of thought that given the build circumstances at the time, it may not have been painted at all. Even if it was, the colors available in Erie at that time (can you say out in the stix) would have been extremely limited. Many say the entire exterior hull was black. The question is are you just following the kit - I think not (no problem there). Are you wanting to build a 20th century replica, get closer to the real thing or do your own thing?
  9. mikiek
    Good pix Joel. I wasn't finished with the mock up tackles - the breech line and the tackle to the upper sled were done first because it appeared obvious that they would be intermingled. So I did those 2 first just to confirm. Moving the lower rings out helped "clean" this up. Not to plans, but it looks like a fairly common placement. The Constitution breech line holders are interesting, but given the build conditions for Niagara would probably be a luxury item. I'll go back to eyebolt and use one of the larger split rings included with the kit. I got that idea for the bar from the Model Shipways Carronade Station kit. Should have the mock up completed shortly. I'm still planning on 2 tackles per side, 1 in the rear and the breech line. Will certainly appreciate your judgement on sizing when I post the pix. I think if anything, I feel I am on the small side, but the next size up was giving that crowded look.
  10. mikiek
    That's good to hear Mark. I've ordered some and will try them out. Can they be blackened like any other brass part?
  11. mikiek
    Darrell - what size drill bit does it take to make a hole for one?
  12. mikiek
    May have just answered my own question. The hooks I have are some sort of plastic. Is photo etched brass any stronger?
  13. mikiek
    I've just had my first experience with photo etched parts. I'm trying to use some 3mm rigging hooks at the ends of my tackles for some carronades. They look great, but the slightest load on them will tear them. I have to wonder if they will hold up at all if I used them for general rigging. Is there any way to strengthen these parts? If it was wood I would probably put some thin CA over them.
  14. mikiek
    Maybe a slight deviation in plans. I am considering a change in the eyebolt pattern for carronades. The new idea goes something like this: I swapped out the upper eyebolt/ring with a bar to catch the breech line. This deviates from the plans but I have seen this on several builds. It makes sense. Why would you seize the breech line to a ring? It would make it tougher to unfasten if needed. With the bar, the seized loop at the end of the breech line just drops over the bar - much simpler. Of course now I am redesigning a ship that sailed 200 years ago The bars will need a little dressing up, but I think the concept is good. I've also moved the lower eyebolt out some. When the upper eyebolts were over the lower, I noticed that there is a big mess with the tackle and the breech line. They were both taking the same path to the bulwark and easily get tangled. Now they can both go their own way. Much cleaner. Here's a look: Since I've already drilled the holes in the real bulwark (at least on port) I'll have to go back and fill/paint the lower hole and move them out. That stinks but I like the result. I'm hoping to get a few more tackles in this evening.
  15. mikiek
    They said "it's all gravy" after the first one....
  16. mikiek
    Thanks Brian - I'm kicking and paddling as hard as I can and my head is barely out of the water. At some point I will have to decide how far I want to go with the guns, but I figured I would go all out on a sample and then decide if I want to cut anything out. I think doing everything is possible, but I am really concerned about hitting that fine line called "too much". Having the gun station has proved to be a good move. It has helped me see a few things that may require some adjustments on eyebolt placement. It's a great place to practice and try things. More to come...
  17. mikiek
    Now you have me looking into some sort of a cordless hand drill. What took you probably 2-3 seconds per hole took me about a minute. And I'll bet yours are better.
  18. mikiek
    Darrell - all the parts came from Chuck - the rope, blocks and hooks. You can't go wrong with his products. I think I have come up with a way to strop the hooks to those blocks, a few more repetitions and I'll post something. I'm going to pull out the serving machine today and see if it's possible to seize the brown rope to the blocks. The one I did was glued and if you look close you can see it doesn't extend out from the block center (like it would if it was seized) it comes out from one side which makes the first loop to the other block look crooked. Anyways, I stroped several blocks and will now string them up.
  19. mikiek
    Are you planning on keeping it schooner rigged as the Constructo plans show or brig rigged?
  20. mikiek
    That Dremel sure beats the pin vise!!!!! Catheads look nice and solid. Are you going to paint all the cherry parts or stain?
  21. mikiek
    Hey Darrell - actually it was just one tackle. If I go the 7 eyebolt route there will be 5 tackles per gun. I will try that first. However if you check some of the other Niagara logs (probably other 1:64 scale builds as well) there ends up being a lot of "stuff" at each gun. IMO in some cases it is a distraction. I'm hoping the small scale of parts I am using will keep the clutter down. Got to get a system for those tackles. That one took almost 30 minutes. Those tiny blocks don't thread well, even with the skinniest rope. Tried beeswax and dipping the end in CA - it still took a lot of attempts. Lots of loud vocals last nite. Will check your log for the bolt holes. I only drilled the port side the other nite.
  22. mikiek
    Well, first decision to make. The laser etched hooks are rather weak. I had the tackle hooked up as in the previous pix, gave the loose end of the rope a pull to tighten and the hook gave way and broke. This is my first experience with anything laser etched so I don't know if this would be a common thing. It is a concern, not just for the carronades but for use in general rigging. If I can't pull a rope tight without breaking a hook they don't help no matter how good they look. I know I can strop a block with wire and make a hook with the end but with a 3/32" block the wire would have to be so thin I doubt the hook would hold up any better. I'm wondering if there is anything that can be done to strengthen the laser etched parts? HELP!!!!
  23. mikiek
    Elijah - I would say Yes. As a matter of fact here is my first tackle (ever). I think size and color may work. Rope = .008 light brown Block = 3/32" single Hook = 3mm You guys be honest, tell me what you see. Too big? Too small? Just right? Darn camera will not get close enough.....
  24. mikiek
    In prep for carronade rigging I made a separate "station" with eyebolts and rings in the proper places. I was planning 7 eyebolts per gun but I am seeing several logs that did only 5 or 4. The 7 I was seeing are - 1 in deck behind; 1 in plankshear on each side (2); 2 on each side at port edge (4). When people go with 5 they eliminate 1 on each side of port and those that do 4 drop the eyebolt behind. Some of the builds with 7 look kinda busy so I imagine the thought was to reduce some of that. Some of those with 7 look to have used some awfully big rope & blocks. I think it may take a bit of work to figure out the right combination - rope size, rope color, block size, block type (a few used doubles), hooks. At least now I have a place to play with it all with no worries about beating up the hull: Still have a lot of guns to make too.
  25. mikiek
    The pinholes are off by a little but not that much. I think for the carronade they are probably fine. However they were throwing off my template for the eyebolt holes. Even that might not have been too noticeable except that my trim around the ports (those 1/32" square strips) is painted red. Using the template some of the holes were going into the part of the bulwark painted green and some into the trim painted red so it showed up. Had everything been green I don't think it would have been noticeable. Regarding pins for the carronade, I was going to use belaying pins but I'm not set on that notion. While weeding thru the kit pins I noticed mine have 2 sizes. 20 of them are a tad longer and about twice as thick. 20 pins - 20 holes The materials list doesn't seem to differentiate it just says Belaying - 120. BTW I have wood belay pins replacements on order, but someone suggested painting the brass pins a wood color. I've tried that and they are not too bad. The wood pins would probably look better but several have commented that they break easily. I'm thinking under large coils of rope neither will be visible very much. As far as eyebolts, I had planned to use the ones in the kit, however after rigging a few of the mast yards I'm pretty sure there are not enough left. Each carronade requires 7 eybolts x 18 guns. I assume the 2 long guns will need some as well. Making eyebolts would be an option although not one I would relish. I have that decision to make pretty soon. I don't want half of one type and half of another. I have replaced all my blocks and deadeyes with those from Syren Models. Chuck's products are first rate. I also replaced the kit ropes with Chucks rope. Chuck also offers some laser etched hooks which really should be used with the carronade rigging. All are a worthwhile upgrade to consider.. I am considering doing the carronades pretty soon. I just wanted to get any other small pieces - cleats, eyebolts, etc - installed on the bulwarks. I think access will be quite limited after the carronades are installed. That is one nice thing about using those hooks I mentioned. Those are on the end of all the rigging that goes to the eyebolts. That should make the carronades removable. A goal for this weekend is to make a false deck with bulwark, port cutout, eyebolts and the like - a carronade station. All rigging will be done there.

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