mikiek

Had my Sunday all to myself, some fiddling and trimming and now the main rail is in place.
Really pleased with the result.
All the parts fit to a majority, some filling was necessary. This auto-putty is a pleasure to work with.
But takes some extra paint cover to the connection areas.
 

Additional three pieces for the rail was attached this evening. Using Titebond II and heat from my hand, the part set hard and fast. Even though I made scarf joint, they are now hidden under the new putty.

Waist inside has gotten the second coating of white.
The waterways was painted with Valejo sky grey. It gave the deck and white a nice contrast. 
First part of the mainrail was glued into place. Here it's important to make a solid contact all the way. I don't want to see any light showing through with the waist.

It took some effort and meditation before I put the drill into waist for the hawse.
Port side is being worked on, using my home made template (masking tape) I worked slowly.
According to the plans the hole going through should have 2.5mm diameter.
I may open it little more to insert a tube, which is not necessary.
Doing so, I have been able to create an opening that I feel okay with.
It will be interesting to see how bad it is after removing the tape.


 

Getting the hawse pipe opening is a tricky part.
Here the two britttania pieces are mirrored and on top of that, several angles involved.
Attaching blue masking tape to the waist, I measured 30mm on the plans and transferred the measurement to the tape.
This would mark the aft part of the metal part. Next was to measure the top and bottom of the opening for the hawse pipe.
Using the metal piece I traced inside of the part. I did the starboard which is on the plans.

Doing the port side was a little trickier.
But at the end I got the second opening right. Looking at the stem it looks like Bluenose has gotten eyes.

 
Now I have the delicate job of drilling the hole for the "eyes".
 

OC: I have since cut them down to 3 mm strips, I'll give these a good soaking then try again
Lawrence: Sorry about that Lawrence I've been busy lately and and not spent much time on the Stefano, this is about to change real soon

You could:
Make a lap joint, when glued then drill some holes in joint to add tiny dowels that would further strengthen joint
Mount pieces in lathe and drill holes in ends to accept a dowel, then glue together
Leave as is, with pin, glue several small strips (.5 mm thick) around diameter of dowel. Then if you wish wrap rope around it in different locations for added strength and looks 

Thank you Zoran - I would not have thought of a step.
 
I lightened up the blue, or at least I tried, 10 parts white - 1 part blue. It didn't seem to change much. Running with Zoran's idea I tried a stick with very pale green. The color is washed out in the photos but it is interesting in real life. I don't have enough dark green to do a larger test surface so sticks are as good as it will get for now.
 

 

 
 

Looks real good bud , but I agree with mike start tapering those edges. Better a bit now than a Ton later .

Things are winding down on the hull. Other than the oars I believe all the pieces are in. Tomorrow I dust off the lathe and see how many of those nice square walnut sticks I can mess up. On the odd chance that I get on a roll I'll have to remember to taper the mast also.
 
I'm still on the fence regarding painting the upper hull. If there was some way to try before you buy I'd be all over it. But if it turns into something I really don't like, I'm hosed.
 
Here she is:

 

 

 

 

 

 

All good ideas Brian. Hadn't thought of brass but did consider coiling some rope around the joint for maybe an inch. Then soaking the rope in some water glue mixture. I even briefly considered lashing the 2 pieces side to side. Nothing is really striking me as the way to go.

Standing rigging is finished
 

 
I've put together the yard - 2 dowels that had to be pinned together at the ends. I'm concerned over this. When I pick it up it sags at the joint. I'm trying to think of some way to beef it up.
 

I'm also trying to make a plan for the sail. It is supposed to have wire at the edges, the edge is folded over the wire and you are supposed to sew it shut. Probably easy enough if I sewed, but I don't. To make it a little worse, the sail has some hems around the edges already. This was beautifully done by Marisstella. So any rookie attempt at another hem is going to really stick out.
 
I've used fabric adhesives before but as Don reminded me, they have a tendency to spot & stain.
 
Which leads me to another topic. The last project I did with the adhesive I didn't care about spots or stains. I was using brand new material and I WANTED spots & stains for the weathered look. The sail with Trajta is so well done I feel guilty trying to dirty it up. Not sure I want to. So using adhesive and risking spots could be problematic.  Hhmmmm.

All good ideas Brian. Hadn't thought of brass but did consider coiling some rope around the joint for maybe an inch. Then soaking the rope in some water glue mixture. I even briefly considered lashing the 2 pieces side to side. Nothing is really striking me as the way to go.

Looking good Tom. The only suggestion I would make is to start tapering the ends. If you don't get on that soon, you will get a serious lesson on stealers & spiling towards the finish.
 
One version of your saying - Treat every plank as it's own project.

Looking good Tom. The only suggestion I would make is to start tapering the ends. If you don't get on that soon, you will get a serious lesson on stealers & spiling towards the finish.
 
One version of your saying - Treat every plank as it's own project.

That's probably the best idea Simon. I use boxwood extensively - often times replacing the entire materials list with it. As I am sure you are seeing it is a fabulous material for modeling.
 
The one thing I have found is that it takes stains differently than other woods. For instance, my "go to" stains for basswood (Minwax Golden Oak) look terrible on boxwood. My message is, whatever you do, try it on scrap first and give it at least 24 hours to sink in and dry.
 
I am working on the Marisstella Trajta kit. One suggestion there is to use a mixture  of 60/40  linseed oil and thinner. Apply and wipe off soon after. This build is the first time I have tried that and I really like the results. IMO on many woods it looks better than staining. It darkens boxwood just a little. You can still use varnish or some type of finish over it. Just a thought.
 
Oh, I was wondering after the initial programming how log did it take the CNC to produce your stern emblem?

Evening, 
 
Very quiet weekend in New Hampshire. Fresh coat of snow today, nothing too bad tho.
With most chores done, and the house quiet, time to head to the Shipyard.
 
A beautiful sunrise, hot cup of coffee, and spent the rest of the day building.
Only intermittent laundry interrupting my joy! 

 
Planking continues.
I'm in the area where the planks make a heck of a twist to lay flat on the transom.
I'm being very slow and deliberate with this area.

 
They get a good soak.
I've read a zillion different theories about soaking wood. Add bleach, don't add bleach.
 
I've done some planking in the past, limited as it may be.
I've had great results when I just let them soak for at least half an hour in hot water.
Even that seems too much, they come out kinda spongy, but workable.

 
When damp, there laid out on the hull and clamped.
The plank heater makes a few runs and then re-clamp.
It then dries for as long as possible, usually overnight, on the hull.
 
I'll "time" my build sessions so that the last thing I do is form and clamp the next days planks.
Its slow, but it works.

 
I think its working well.
Admittedly, I know I haven't shaped/tapered the ends of the planks well.
That will show up eventually.
With each and every plank I am learning something.
 
Adapt and adjust.

 
I'm still using whole planks.
I would like to get belt A done with nothing but whole planks. Then I'll switch to cut planks.
 
Once Belt A is done, I will lay the Garboard strake, before moving onto Belt B.
 
Mike, you weren't kidding when you said a lot depends on that Garboard plank!

 
While planking continues, side projects move forward.
I have my Fore mast cut to length and is marked for carving.
 
Working on it now as I write this update!

 
I gave my self some "extra" wood above the Cap so I could work my way down.
You can see it marked below.
 
Once shaped, It will get a coat of sanding sealer, then primed.
I have the "Buff" paint from the ME paint set that will be its final coat.
 
Well, It all works out in my head!

Tom E 
 
 

Well there's no going back now. Blue is on both sides of the boat - I'm committed. I'm still not overwhelmed but I can't complain either. Final hull shots:
 

 

 

 
I've started slinging string also. Rigging isn't overly complex although there is a sail to mess with on this build. I'm stumped on one item though. There's a block (the only block in the kit) that hangs down from the masthead, almost like  pendant. Looking at both the plans and photos in the manual - I cannot follow the string from the block down and see where they go. So @donrobinson or @MarisStella.hr when you see this let me know please.
 

 

Hi Mr. Mike ... one end of the rope that runs through the block is attached to the yard and the other one is tied to the bitt at the mast... Then there is a parral made of rope. It is just a simple loop thet tightens the  rope from the yard to the mast. This way the yard is tightened to the mast ... ...
Waiting for more ... this is ok !!  
Zoran

Simon - will you be painting that piece? Or painting it with more than one color?

Well there's no going back now. Blue is on both sides of the boat - I'm committed. I'm still not overwhelmed but I can't complain either. Final hull shots:
 

 

 

 
I've started slinging string also. Rigging isn't overly complex although there is a sail to mess with on this build. I'm stumped on one item though. There's a block (the only block in the kit) that hangs down from the masthead, almost like  pendant. Looking at both the plans and photos in the manual - I cannot follow the string from the block down and see where they go. So @donrobinson or @MarisStella.hr when you see this let me know please.
 

 

OK Master Zoran - this one is for you, my old friend.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I think the color in the photos is a reasonable rendition of the real thing. Maybe a little washed out but not much. Since I mixed this color I have to give it a name. I think it will be Almost Baby Blue. That goes along nicely with my Dijon Yellow, Evil Black and Chili Red.
 
I did give myself a back door on this. If you notice, only the port side is painted. I imagine I'll do the other side when the green paint arrives. You can see one spot where I when past the masking tape and tried to cover up with what is left of the J.A. Green. It doesn't match anymore. More paint should be here tomorrow.
 
So there you have it.

OK Master Zoran - this one is for you, my old friend.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I think the color in the photos is a reasonable rendition of the real thing. Maybe a little washed out but not much. Since I mixed this color I have to give it a name. I think it will be Almost Baby Blue. That goes along nicely with my Dijon Yellow, Evil Black and Chili Red.
 
I did give myself a back door on this. If you notice, only the port side is painted. I imagine I'll do the other side when the green paint arrives. You can see one spot where I when past the masking tape and tried to cover up with what is left of the J.A. Green. It doesn't match anymore. More paint should be here tomorrow.
 
So there you have it.

I've never seen this kit before. It's gorgeous. Beautiful lines. And you're doing a great job with the build.

It is one of the most real looking wood finishes I've seen on a boat build.