Slowhand
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Everything posted by Slowhand
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Quick post - must read all the replies to my question about which machinery to buy and thank / reply to all the Members who took the time to give me advice. All planking below wales done.
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Thanks for the replies, I’ve had a good look at discussions on the various merits of scroll swaps and table saws on this forum but there’s a lot less about mini milling machines which are something I know little about. If you take milling/planking your own timber out of the equation would a Byrnes table saw or a mini mill be of more use for the tasks I listed. One’s thing for sure won’t be buying without seeing one or close equivalent in the flesh.
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Advice needed, looking ahead in my Polacca build which is relatively large scale (1/32) for doing the fine work after finishing the structural stuff, not there yet mind more planking to do. What would be really useful, table saw, scroll saw or mini milling machine. Never used any of these and very little knowledge of milling machines Budget no real problem, but space is, can only get one of the above in my shed and it’s unlikely to do everything obviously. Parts to be made: Gun carriages capstan, stern window frames deck gratings scarf joints for keel, deck planking deck gratings small parts- stern lanterns
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Planking pins/nails
Slowhand replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Davebaxt, I always use the copper pins supplied with Corel, Occre to fix the planks, both first and second layers, once you’ve got the wales in place. No need to push them through the timber, use the edge of the pin head to hold the lower edge of the plank down and fix into the bulkhead. The upper edge rarely needs anything, when dry pull the pin out and reuse. Always thought treenails were for appearance rather than structural in models. Picture attached is a scratch build hence drawing pins but it shows the idea.
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Hiya David, I think part of your confusion is that your Yacht Endeavour is certainly not bluff bowed. Capt Cooke’s Endeavour has a typical blunt bow which is amongst the hardest of hull types to plank well. Many build logs showing planking are on this site,
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More photos of planking, 1st layer, and first bit of main deck.
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Looking for plans or possible models of Magellan's ships.
Slowhand replied to J11's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Just spotted your Fantastic account of your adventures in Patagonia, brings back memories of my visit in 2007 and more recently in 2018. Saw the Nao Victoria from a distance but had to rush to catch a coach to Peurto Natales for a Torres del Paine trip. -
Girona by augustus
Slowhand replied to augustus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Who would have thought a simple bread and butter build would have lead to such a fantastic build. -
Probably my last posting for a month as back to planking the hull. Finish port side below wales all of starboard below wales then stern area both sides above wales. Just first planking layer as well! This will be a long build but pleased that everything seems do-able, will meet the challenge of the stern carvings much later.
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Latest update, decided to add some pear wood ribs to aid planking and to ultimately remove plywood bulkheads so it will look better I hope in the future! Really wanted to check this change of tack will work so put lower hull planking on hold. Using the plywood sides, if I plank them with 1mm thick strips will be flush with 2mm thick planks already in place. All plywood bulkheads on stern half of ship replaced with pear.
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Thanks Louie/ skerryAmp for the likes, scratch building certainly has its challenges bit of an understatement from my point of view. Just plodding on with the first layer of planking allowing me to think ahead. Looking for advice, a ship of this size ~ 50 ft, would the bulwarks be left open showing the top of the futtocks or would they be planked on the inside. If the former, might have to add some frames and consider removing the ply bulkheads just as Backer did in his Pelican. If they were boxed in life would be easier.
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Hiya Backer, I guess you use a scroll saw for the mast tops which one, great work by the way love the wood staining to give the weathered look.
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State of play , planking below the wales, planking one the most satisfying tasks for me. Split the lower hull into 4 zones and tapering bow end of planks. Just about finished 1st zone, quite a sharp bow so not too difficult.
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Thanks Bruce, I used my bandsaw today with a new blade 1/4” and 4 tpi cut quite straight although it was a bit of a beast and not exactly a precision tool. First time the rubber tyre came off just about straight away so I superglued it back on. More sanding work on the in fills so nothing worth photographing today.
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So far so good added 10mm thick lime in-fills with wood left over from a carving project. Will in fill to just below the deck line. Easy fills done, now for the harder in-fills. Not sure if a I’ll use the ply bulkheads clipped on but helps me visualise the overall ship.
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Thanks for your Interest Mark, the area below the two upper most planks In my last photo also to the left of A on the Amati diagram (the stern cabin) was intended to be “open plan“ and I still have the bulwarks on the rear deck to the right of B to consider so in this case I don’t think solid filler blocks of lime would work in this case. Or did you mean blocks of lime say 10mm thick which could well work for the lower part A.
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Forgot to add how do I change my topic title as I need to change the scale from 25 to 32/1.
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After a bit of experimentation with bending planks to get the curvature in the bulwarks. It’s not going to work so a re think. The bulkhead spacing restricts me to using long planks which I won’t bend across theIr width. Has any one got any suggestions. My thoughts are using ply side panels as in many kits and planking over them. This scratch building throws up a few difficulties not least finding the right tools to cut out pieces accurately. I’am using hand tools now but it never feels very satisfying as the accuracy is not there with the first cut. A coping or scroll saw creates so much dust it obscures the line so my preferred weapon is a small hacksaw really for metal work but it works so what the heck.
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Surprisingly difficult to produce two identical pieces for the bottom of stern windows still got there. Some work to do on those top planks curvature not right.
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In the absence of any other evidence it’s 64/1 so my build log is 32/1.
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Afraid it doesn’t show a ships boat, nice idea mind
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Did some quick calculations, cannot be 150/1 scale that would be a large vessel 45 metres, and the cabin / deck heights way too high. A 50/1 scale the cabin deck heights way too low. 100/1 still gives quite a long ship deck heights bit too high. Looks to a scale 75/1 or 64/1 is feasible what does anyone think?
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Hello Sceatha, you know I think you right. When I purchased the plans they were definitely advertised as 50/1 and it says so on the building instructions but not on the main plan, part of which I’ve shown above. Perhaps they missed a 1 out. Looks like they’ve relaunched the packaging. Wonder if they spotted my build log and thought the scale on my build log is all wrong, fame of a kind at last! First thing to do tomorrow is to take some measurements on the plan and calculate actual sizes with different scales. A 150/1 scale would make it quite a long ship. Anyway thanks for your help. 😊
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Well I’ve been starting to put cross members on the bulkheads to lay the decks on and starting to get a little confused. The main deck was obvious and once I realised the bulwarks should go past the 2 upper decks everything looked clearer. The single plank in my previous posting above was removed and replaced by a longer one nearly reaching the next left bulkhead. But the height between the decks looked all wrong for the scale much too low. So I looked at the Amati plan and the heights marked A and B in yellow for between decks are approx 2cm and 3cm so on a 50:1 plan 1 and 1.5 m high. The overall length of the ship not including bowsprit based on the 50:1 plan is ~ 20m which doesn’t sound too unreasonable. Any advice much welcome, is it likely the Amati scale is wrong?
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Stern transom fixed and first two bits of lime attached to start planking and confirming where the decks lie. Planking 2 x 6 mm lime as first layer. With distance between bulkheads gonna need the strength of two layers. Really having to think where decks, stern balcony’s go . So different to building from a kit.
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