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Cornhusker1956

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About Cornhusker1956

  • Birthday 08/24/1956

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    Green-pharmd@msn.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fernandina Beach, Florida
  • Interests
    Model boat building, bicycling, and reading.

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  1. Not to steal the thread but I have an extra Amati keel clamper that I would be willing to sell cheap. David
  2. Rich I have seen many builds on the forum that have used the balsa filler technique but haven’t had a chance to try it out. There was one on an Endeavour 1:35 project that used balsa fillers between every BH, over entire 4 ft length. I agree that this will make the fairing and planking much easier in these areas. David
  3. Rich Very interested to hear what the others following have to say. I would be very hesitant about the shim/sand solution because it would also change the line up of the reference lines. I think that if you could adjust just the curvature of the bottom edge (sanding or carving) so that it flows smoothly into the already cut rabbet it should be fine. David
  4. Rich While not an expert I think that when you fair the bulkheads some the overlap will resolve but if it remains a problem then the bulkheads will need to be shortened and faired so that the rabbit line is exposed. As for the ships boat I have attached some pictures of the version in the kit I built. It is the MS version with a 1994 date on the plans. Looks pretty close to the other picture. David
  5. Rich Good luck on this build. This was a ship that I built many years ago, back when my skills were very rudimentary. I look forward to seeing how it really should be done. This may tempt me to try again. David
  6. So I guess that no one can assist me with this question? I am very hesitant to start my Endeavour 1:35 kit without knowing a little bit more about how to plank the bow. Any assistance would be appreciated. David
  7. Looking for some information on how to plank the bow of the Endeavour. I have attached some pictures from other members that shows an overlapping/alternating planking technique that I have not been able to duplicate. Is there a video or set of instructions for this method somewhere? My attempt was not satisfactory (see photo) - very uneven . Picture 2 is from John Gummersall’s build and Picture 1 is from Henry James’s build. David
  8. John Just saw this post and am happy that you have completed the build. I believe that your final result is much better than mine, especially with the hull and bow. I will post pictures of my finished build in another post. Like you it is time to move on to another. I would still like to get some more experience with the hull and bow of these types of boats before I attempt the 1:35 version of the Endeavour. David
  9. John Now that I am placing the cleats and the blocks I wanted to comment on the plans and some of the very close tolerances on the placement of some parts for those who try this next. The plans indicate that a 2mm wide plank should be used for the outermost deck planking and a double 2mm plank for the center line plank. Once the deck is completed then a 1mm wide toe rail is placed just inside the outermost plank. Per the plans there are many blocks to be placed on this outermost plank. The holes are 1.5mm and the brass collars are 2mm wide. This means that the holes need t
  10. John Hopefully you have had a chance to do some work this past week. I am looking forward to seeing your progress. I copied your idea for the turnbuckles and they turned out beautifully. I am a little ambivalent about putting all of the blocks and cleats on the deck. I have seen others that have done them all (even if they are not needed for the rigging) and included the coiled ropes for the rigging. While realistic I think that it detracts from the view of the deck and the fine work that has been done. If I remember correctly you had previously posted that you were not going to
  11. John The drill looks real handy. Will have to add to my “toys”. It was a pain had drilling all of the holes. I am leaning toward not doing the water line also. David
  12. John I see that you have bored the holes in the deck for the fittings. I don’t know if this is true for you but I have run into some problems. First the 2 mm holes for the skylights (part 99) are not big enough to accommodate the skylights. I haven’t determine the correct diameter as of yet but will be working on that next. Second the 2 mm holes for the capstans are not needed - that is my capstans (part 102) do not have the protrusion at the bottom that are supposed to fit into these holes (figure 67 in the plans). David
  13. John I too have big fingers and it was difficult to assemble the deck furniture. I agree that adding the acetate windows before assembly is easier but it caused me some problems. The windows added depth to the frames and caused a gap between the window frame and the side walls. Not much but it looks a little off. Watch out for those metal grates flying off to parts unknown when snipped from the big piece. Deck looks really nice with the stain. David
  14. John I should have describe it as the bow. As you see below mine is not smooth. Comparing mine to the picture from your May 28th post you can see the difference. The 7th photo in your May 21st post shows the second planking of the bow with planks on the alternating sides protruding beyond the other side. Is this how you got such a smooth line? Is so is there a instructional video or something as a reference for this method? I have not ever seen this done. David
  15. John The center and edge pieces are mahogany stained with red mahogany. I got the longer (1 meter in length) mahogany strips from Ages of Sail also. I had to stain the hull with the red mahogany because of problems with some wood filler that I used to repair some gaps. Since I did the hull I did the deck pieces also. I do have a few questions, especially about how you did the second planking of the bow. Your ridge line is very clean and mine is very “bumpy”. I saw the picture with the overlapping planks and wondered about the method. Where did you get this from and is
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