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Cornhusker1956

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About Cornhusker1956

  • Birthday 08/24/1956

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    Green-pharmd@msn.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fernandina Beach, Florida
  • Interests
    Model boat building, bicycling, and reading.

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  1. This was my first one also - almost 30+ years ago. Be embarrassed to show a picture of it. Quite “rustic”.
  2. I have had more problems with rigging slipping through the split on the rings - I just spot soldered them together. David
  3. Andre Thank you for the detailed pictures and explanation. Very helpful for my next time. David
  4. Andre Can you explain with a little detail about planking the bow. It seems per the pictures that you planked on side with several rows with the ends overhanging the actual line of the bow and then the other side. Did you determine the line/shear of the bow with the one side and matched that with the other? I have seen other methods used but still don’t have an understanding of the details (like the cross-crossing). And I have found that it is all about the details. I have completed the Endeavour 1:80 version and had a very difficult time with the bow. I have the 1:35 version sittin
  5. May want to try www.CMLsupply.com. I have a micro drill bit set from them and it worked really well with a Drexel tool in their drill press. David
  6. Not to steal the thread but I have an extra Amati keel clamper that I would be willing to sell cheap. David
  7. Rich I have seen many builds on the forum that have used the balsa filler technique but haven’t had a chance to try it out. There was one on an Endeavour 1:35 project that used balsa fillers between every BH, over entire 4 ft length. I agree that this will make the fairing and planking much easier in these areas. David
  8. Rich Very interested to hear what the others following have to say. I would be very hesitant about the shim/sand solution because it would also change the line up of the reference lines. I think that if you could adjust just the curvature of the bottom edge (sanding or carving) so that it flows smoothly into the already cut rabbet it should be fine. David
  9. Rich While not an expert I think that when you fair the bulkheads some the overlap will resolve but if it remains a problem then the bulkheads will need to be shortened and faired so that the rabbit line is exposed. As for the ships boat I have attached some pictures of the version in the kit I built. It is the MS version with a 1994 date on the plans. Looks pretty close to the other picture. David
  10. Rich Good luck on this build. This was a ship that I built many years ago, back when my skills were very rudimentary. I look forward to seeing how it really should be done. This may tempt me to try again. David
  11. So I guess that no one can assist me with this question? I am very hesitant to start my Endeavour 1:35 kit without knowing a little bit more about how to plank the bow. Any assistance would be appreciated. David
  12. Looking for some information on how to plank the bow of the Endeavour. I have attached some pictures from other members that shows an overlapping/alternating planking technique that I have not been able to duplicate. Is there a video or set of instructions for this method somewhere? My attempt was not satisfactory (see photo) - very uneven . Picture 2 is from John Gummersall’s build and Picture 1 is from Henry James’s build. David
  13. John Just saw this post and am happy that you have completed the build. I believe that your final result is much better than mine, especially with the hull and bow. I will post pictures of my finished build in another post. Like you it is time to move on to another. I would still like to get some more experience with the hull and bow of these types of boats before I attempt the 1:35 version of the Endeavour. David
  14. John Now that I am placing the cleats and the blocks I wanted to comment on the plans and some of the very close tolerances on the placement of some parts for those who try this next. The plans indicate that a 2mm wide plank should be used for the outermost deck planking and a double 2mm plank for the center line plank. Once the deck is completed then a 1mm wide toe rail is placed just inside the outermost plank. Per the plans there are many blocks to be placed on this outermost plank. The holes are 1.5mm and the brass collars are 2mm wide. This means that the holes need t
  15. John Hopefully you have had a chance to do some work this past week. I am looking forward to seeing your progress. I copied your idea for the turnbuckles and they turned out beautifully. I am a little ambivalent about putting all of the blocks and cleats on the deck. I have seen others that have done them all (even if they are not needed for the rigging) and included the coiled ropes for the rigging. While realistic I think that it detracts from the view of the deck and the fine work that has been done. If I remember correctly you had previously posted that you were not going to
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