Julie Mo

I spent the last couple of days working on some minor details.  Some of the planks at the rail weren't firmly bonded so I fixed those.  I also planed down the rough edges at the rail and checked the fit of the plywood deck.  But before I could do that work I had to make a working cradle.

As the work moved away from midship it became obvious I'll need to add braces closer to the bow and stern.  I also decided to make up a laminated piece for the keel.  The solid mahogany just doesn't look right, too monolithic and too dark.  Lead shot and epoxy are on their way so the deck attachment will have to wait.  In the meantime I decided to tackle the deck cabin.
 
These are the parts:

Before removing them from the plywood sheet, I lightly sanded the entire sheet with 320 grit Granat sandpaper, being conscious of minimizing loss of thickness.

The tolerances weren't what they were with the frame.  Kind of disappointed with that.

You can see how sloppy the tolerances are in the above picture.  There's no way the light sanding took THAT much off.

In order to get everything plumb and square, the pieces will be glued together in sections using the base of an engineer's square. 
 
The hide glue should be ready now.  Time to begin assembly.
 
 

Here's the damage:

There's a little crack that was washed out when I took the picture.  It's just above the bitter end of the transom planks that are broken off.  So they all had to be removed.
 

When I started removing the top planking, it took some of the sub planking with it.
 

On the transom there was an extra sub planking laid in so I pared it smooth with a chisel and cleaned up the edges.  I could have used some mini chisels for this operation.
 

I couldn't get the last two planks to stay so I had to remove them for later installation.  They are in place now so I'm waiting for the glue to set.

I got all the mahogany strips for the keel glued in place and smoothed.  It turned out okay. 
 
Then came the lacquer, mostly to protect the bare wood from contaminants.
 
I took the hull outside to spray the lacquer.  With the house closed up, the lacquer smell permeates every room, even with the shop door closed.  So the hull got a little sun today.  

After I get the deck glued down, I'll trim the planks flush.
 
On a sad note, when I was gluing the keel strips in place, I used rubber bands around the hull.  At one point I placed the stern on the floor to put some rubber bands on at the bow.  The bow was leaning on my knee with the keep in the air.  The weight of the keel spun it around and I heard a sickening CRUNCH!  I looked at the stern and about half of the planks on the transom broke off below the rail line.  Two steps forward, one step back...

Here's today's work

Right now, I'm not liking it.  The crystal ball is predicting some changes.

Here's today's work

Right now, I'm not liking it.  The crystal ball is predicting some changes.

I spent the last couple of days working on some minor details.  Some of the planks at the rail weren't firmly bonded so I fixed those.  I also planed down the rough edges at the rail and checked the fit of the plywood deck.  But before I could do that work I had to make a working cradle.

As the work moved away from midship it became obvious I'll need to add braces closer to the bow and stern.  I also decided to make up a laminated piece for the keel.  The solid mahogany just doesn't look right, too monolithic and too dark.  Lead shot and epoxy are on their way so the deck attachment will have to wait.  In the meantime I decided to tackle the deck cabin.
 
These are the parts:

Before removing them from the plywood sheet, I lightly sanded the entire sheet with 320 grit Granat sandpaper, being conscious of minimizing loss of thickness.

The tolerances weren't what they were with the frame.  Kind of disappointed with that.

You can see how sloppy the tolerances are in the above picture.  There's no way the light sanding took THAT much off.

In order to get everything plumb and square, the pieces will be glued together in sections using the base of an engineer's square. 
 
The hide glue should be ready now.  Time to begin assembly.
 
 

Thank you so much, gentlemen!  Such compliments.  I don't know what to say but thank you, again!
 
 

Here's today's work

Right now, I'm not liking it.  The crystal ball is predicting some changes.

Hi Mike - I've been looking at that drawing you have.  Maybe this will help.

If I'm reading this right, the "fillers" are to show good grained wood in areas that will be exposed later on, like a veneer on plywood.  The 3mm beam looks like it wraps an opening.  That means the 4mm beam would show 1mm of end grain.  Solution is to put in the filler (veneer).
 
To give a full 3D cut away, I put dashed lines in what I'm describing as the 4mm beam.  The bottom shows what it would like if they took the 3D drawing to the end.
 
I agree with your assessment of 3 boards. It's built like a doorway opening with the left handed board working like a cripple.  The thin board on the right might be some sort of veneer? 
 
Does that 3mm board taper to 6mm?  The one on top doesn't show it but then as you move right it seems to cover a 6mm beam (board).  I'm thinking if it remains 3mm, why not extend the veneer all the way around?

MAST CONSTRUCTION
 
 
Ahoy Gents
                         Here is another update video of the build thus far the entire hull has been completed the installation of the rudder has been completed the fitting set to the kit gives you a set of brass gudgeons or rudder hinges.  I will save the opening of the shutter bats will be done last next thing to do is the construction of the 4 mast, again taking care when cutting out the disc for the mast platforms they had a recess ring that fits on top of the mast platform that will except the green crows nest wind shields.  In turn these assemblies were a treat to behold, no difficulty on these parts you have to form the acetate shield by rolling a cylinder object adding pressure while you roll the the object over the green shields this process makes the installation more easier then cementing a little at a time until completed and save time.  I have two mast completed two more to go they will be a fast assembly not much there as that of the fore main mast assemblies.  Some fellas out there mentiomn the ship is to glossy I made it glossy on purpose the wood in this kit was so dried out from time and elements  this was done once the mast are all completed I will airbrush on a couple coats of matt to tone it down a tad don't want it looking flat just enough to take out the sheen of the polyurethane.  A lot of you guys think I built this quick the answer is no I spend anywhere from 9 to 16 hours a day on this project like a dog with a bone I am not letting go until this is completed.  I assumed I will have about there more hours to completed the remainder two mast the mizzen and the spencer mast they don't have that many parts posed to the fore man mainmast.  If the good Lord is willing and the rivers don't rise I should start the standing rigging tomorrow evening the real fun will begin. Here are the update comnstruction of the Isabella.
 

Thanks Steve I got to check out your Bounty  Thumbs up buddy

Ahoy
            Here is another update build report the entire hull is now complete with the exception of the opening of the shutter bays and installation of the rudder.  The hard part of the build is behind me and the fun parts will begin the deck furniture will follow and the cannons too. Not to much on the deck fittings I will start with the gratings and make a set of ladder ways a lot to do to make this relic come back to life.  A very difficult kit to build mostly the dried and splitting of the wood made this kit a issue to build. A word of caution I would love to share here on the forum anyone who has these ancient Billing kits they must be built on the fly other words if you let it idol longer then the kit will allow you will face the problem I had on Isabella. If the remainder of the construction of this kit it will build quicker now since the hull has been completed.  right before I shot these pictures I gave the ship one more good coat of polyurethane and let dry only thing to do now is prepare and make the deck furniture. 
Frankie Day

Ahoy Shipwrights
                                  Okay long time no see but still here okay fellas here is the final reveal of the Isabella she is finally completed now for Norske Love I will post update pictures of the build I started on her about a month ago so I will start another build thread on her The Love is a older kit 1970s issue like that of Isabella everything has to be cut out by hand I would not have it any other way old school kit verses old school dude.
Frankie Day

Hi Mike,
 
We all need extra holes in the head.  It's what helps our brains cool down when we overheat it with all the things we want to do.
 
Looks like you're off to a good start.  I'll be watching.  

Never seen anything like that.  Such an interesting sailing vessel.  Should be fun to watch her come to life!

I spent the last couple of days working on some minor details.  Some of the planks at the rail weren't firmly bonded so I fixed those.  I also planed down the rough edges at the rail and checked the fit of the plywood deck.  But before I could do that work I had to make a working cradle.

As the work moved away from midship it became obvious I'll need to add braces closer to the bow and stern.  I also decided to make up a laminated piece for the keel.  The solid mahogany just doesn't look right, too monolithic and too dark.  Lead shot and epoxy are on their way so the deck attachment will have to wait.  In the meantime I decided to tackle the deck cabin.
 
These are the parts:

Before removing them from the plywood sheet, I lightly sanded the entire sheet with 320 grit Granat sandpaper, being conscious of minimizing loss of thickness.

The tolerances weren't what they were with the frame.  Kind of disappointed with that.

You can see how sloppy the tolerances are in the above picture.  There's no way the light sanding took THAT much off.

In order to get everything plumb and square, the pieces will be glued together in sections using the base of an engineer's square. 
 
The hide glue should be ready now.  Time to begin assembly.
 
 

Here's the damage:

There's a little crack that was washed out when I took the picture.  It's just above the bitter end of the transom planks that are broken off.  So they all had to be removed.
 

When I started removing the top planking, it took some of the sub planking with it.
 

On the transom there was an extra sub planking laid in so I pared it smooth with a chisel and cleaned up the edges.  I could have used some mini chisels for this operation.
 

I couldn't get the last two planks to stay so I had to remove them for later installation.  They are in place now so I'm waiting for the glue to set.

Never seen anything like that.  Such an interesting sailing vessel.  Should be fun to watch her come to life!

I spent the last couple of days working on some minor details.  Some of the planks at the rail weren't firmly bonded so I fixed those.  I also planed down the rough edges at the rail and checked the fit of the plywood deck.  But before I could do that work I had to make a working cradle.

As the work moved away from midship it became obvious I'll need to add braces closer to the bow and stern.  I also decided to make up a laminated piece for the keel.  The solid mahogany just doesn't look right, too monolithic and too dark.  Lead shot and epoxy are on their way so the deck attachment will have to wait.  In the meantime I decided to tackle the deck cabin.
 
These are the parts:

Before removing them from the plywood sheet, I lightly sanded the entire sheet with 320 grit Granat sandpaper, being conscious of minimizing loss of thickness.

The tolerances weren't what they were with the frame.  Kind of disappointed with that.

You can see how sloppy the tolerances are in the above picture.  There's no way the light sanding took THAT much off.

In order to get everything plumb and square, the pieces will be glued together in sections using the base of an engineer's square. 
 
The hide glue should be ready now.  Time to begin assembly.
 
 

Sometimes I feel like I need a new build like I need a hole in the head. Other times it's nice to walk away from one build and get some distraction with another. Trajta is my first Marisstella kit and I have their Cog on the shelf. I'm not one to take lots of pix of the box and contents, actually the Marisstella boxes are blue on the outside and do not show a pic of the boat. Here's one (a pic of a pic) and you can go to the Maristella site to see more about this boat. Lot's of good pix and a very good write up on the history.
 

 
As I alluded to, this is my 2nd build in progress at the moment. I am making a concerted effort to complete Niagara - kind of a personal commitment - so Trajta will be playing second fiddle for a while. If you would like to follow along, please consider that and have patience.
 
The keel has been assembled and the next step will be the bulkheads. As there is a pretty big open hold on this boat, a few of the bulkhead pieces need some dressing up as they will be visible. I've also made a feeble attempt at a build board - recommended in the instructions. I'm not crazy about that, but I'll play along for now. I think the Amati stand would probably be sufficient.
 

 

 
Speaking of instructions, the English version has just been revised. Don Robinson has played a big part there so he deserves a lot of credit as does Zoran from Marisstella for continuing to improve on his product.
 
Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay along for the ride.
 
 
 

Once again the guidance provided by the fairing marks etched on the bulkheads made the fairing process pretty straightforward.  I used an x-acto blade to pare down the bow bulkhead close to the fairing guides then sanded to create the smooth transition between bulkheads. 

 
Top I forgot to install the kit supplied bow filler.  Not too late though.

A batten bent with a curve at the end was used to check the fairing.

 
 
Although I was being careful (you see I do learn from one build to the next) I did manage to break one bulkhead extension when my sleeve caught it.  It gave me trouble several times after that as I tried to fix it more permanently.  Each fix was a little less satisfactory as more of the joint was damaged.  Solution of course was to pin it as well as glueing.

I cut the filler blocks out of some scrap 1”x2” pine.  Then I drift all the bulkheads and filler block (the masking tape helped hold the filler blocks in place.


 
Once I was satisfied I started gluing the bulkheads and filler blocks onto the BF



 
 
Once all the fillers were in the hull was quite a bit heavier but very sturdy

"In for a penny, in for a pound"
 
I might as well continue with the plywood as long as I could - it was a good dry run, right?
 
I found the bulkheads needed very little adjustment to slide into place and seat at the correct depth.  No need for shims.  
 



 
There were some minor plywood issues with the bulkheads but no showstoppers

Doug,
I am aiming to get to it as soon as I can finish the <ahem - not a ship> model of a Sopwith Camel. I am well into the wings... but then the empennage and fuselage must follow. I would day some time in September I will be into the Syren.  As you note in your post, there are a lot of really good logs for the Syren here on MSW: some finished and others in progress. The Syren will be my first POB build, so I am taking as many notes as possible from the masters out here. ;-)   I see you also had issues with the provided plywood. Interesting. I'll have to check my parts and see if I have been given the same dreaded material.  Looking forward to your progress. Have fun with your build! 
~john
 

The stem gets some minor tapering for the figurehead.

 
If I was going to continue with the plywood version 1st I would need to duplicate the stem.  Simple enough to trace the outline on a basswood sheet and cut it out 
 



 
It won't be as easy to duplicate the figurehead!