Julie Mo

Hi Lawrence, I haven’t done much but I’ll show you where I am now.
 
On boat number one I added the window plastic and mounted the clearstory windows.  I added the prop and rudder, and the steering chain.  All that’s left on number one is the steering station and a few chocks and cleats.
 
On number two I painted the hull white and added the flooring.  On the bench in the foreground you can see the side windows for number two and the yellow card stock is the template for the front of the cabin.
 
That’s it for now.
 
Bob
 

 

The holidays are over, and finally it's time to get back to modeling.  As if that was all there is to do.  Before the holidays I did some work on boat number two, but never got around taking and posting pictures, so now it's catch up time.  Here is what I did.  Now to do more.
 
Bob
 

 

Found an old DVD (2012) with TurboCad Deluxe 2D/3D,
installed it on the laptop using the key license, opened up the program.
Got a question about upgrade clicked yes, now running the Version 19. At no extra cost.

Not really related, but I wanted to be a draftsman out of high school and went to college for 3 years to learn mechanical drafting. After graduation I got a job with a manufacturing company. They just got Autocad, probably version 1. It also came with a Flight Simulator program. At that time, I had never used a computer based drafting program but was very familiar with computers (home computers were just starting to become popular). So I taught the chief draftsman how to use Autocad then stayed late every night so I could try out the flight simulator (I also did a lot of flying with my best friend who is now an airline captain).  Turns out I spent more time on the flight simulator than I did on Autocad.  I haven't drafted in years as my profession changed early in my career.
 
FYI, Flight Simulator was invented by Bruce Artwick who eventually licensed it to Microsoft.  I've owned every version since its inception.

John
 
Thank you. I think I am going to have to intersperse block making with other tasks, I can't face up to the prospect of banging them all out one after the other. Much too tedious. I haven't counted up how many I need lest it drives me to despair. I will save the count for when I am in a good mood.

Today I spent much of the time cutting 3" x 2" x 8 foot lengths of timber to repair the lounge floor. As a reward I finished a 2 pulley block. In terms of size it was a case of the ridiculous to the sublime!!!!!
 
The pin is a standard 20mm dressmakers pin.
 


 
 
 

Cleats and Pulley Blocks:-
 
On the inside of the bulwarks are cleats for attaching the fenders. 5 per side. They are fairly simple with a single central mount.
 

 
I decided to have a go at making the pulley blocks. I have not made wooden pulley blocks before and decided it was worth having a try. The fall back position is buying them. Altair has single double and triple pulleys and I decided that 2 or possibly 3 sizes would cover the range needed. I started by sketching out the designs. 
 

 
I decided to start with the middle sized pulley block 0.2 x 0.3 inch. I need a number so decided to build them as a single unit which would allow 1,2 and 3 pulley versions to be parted off as required.
 
I started by slotting mahogany and then cutting strips to the width of the finished pulley. I made a mistake on one of the slots - adding up becomes more difficult with age!!!!! I also cut the square block from which the walls of the pulleys would be formed.
 


 
I drilled the square block to take the pulley spindle. This was a step too far as the drill was much too flexible and wandered off. Next time I will drill the spindle hole once the pulley has been formed and separated off.
 


 
The wall section were slit off from the drilled block, and assembly commenced using PVA glue.
 



 
Once the assembly was complete shaping commenced. I made a concave sanding block to assist control of the shaping operation.
 


 
The assembly is now sanded to shape and awaiting further operations.
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you all for your kind comments and likes
 
Following John's (Jim Lad) suggestion I mounted a sheave at the head of the bowsprit.
I then finish off the other detail using bits of brass wire, tube and turned bar.
 


 
I also made and fitted the reinforcing plates at the top of the hawsepipes.
 


 
The mahogany for the bowsprit is light in colour and my best effort in correcting this involved 2 coats of Georgian Mahogany stain followed by 2 coats of Walnut. Not quite dark enough yet though!!!!
 
 
 
 
 

My time has been much diverted so progress has been slow.
 
I decided to make the bowsprit but only had square section timber available. I have a 4 jaw independent chuck but changing over from the 3 jaw chuck is very tedious and I wanted to find a quick solution to holding square section stock for masts and spars. The primary requirement was to hold and drive the square section stock while turning the diameter at the opposite end.
 
I made a wooden hub with concentric bore diameters. The concentric diameters being made in a single operation using a step drill. The square section of the timber goes into the nearest across corners diameter hole. A piece of sting provides the drive and the tape takes up any slack in the fit.
 






 
I installed the hawsepipes. The upper ends were filed to the correct length and angle using wooden guides temporally held in place by double sided tape.
 



 
 
I mounted the bowsprit foot on the deck. The bolts holding the foot down are reading glasses repair screws - from ebay. 
 

Mike, before reading vossiewulf's reply, the first plane that came to mind for me is the smoothing plane.  I agree with is comments 100%.  I have used mine for jointing the sides of planks I ripped on the table saw.  And for finish work, it is the best choice.
 
The #62 low angle jack plane however, can be a great all around plane if you equip it with extra plane irons.  I especially love the adjustable throat on mine.  It really helps control the cut. 
 
FWW did an article some time ago about the #62 calling it the only hand plane you need.  In the article, the author recommended having one iron sharpened at 280 and one at 350.  Add the 120 already in the plane bed and you can tackle more jobs.  He also recommended a toothed iron to take the place of a scrub plane and a scraper blade to round out the collection.  You can see how versatile the #62 can be if you do this.  It was the first "real" plane I bought and with it bought the additional irons.  
 
Over time, I added to my plane collection and while I don't use the #62 for everything any more, it is the plane I still use most often for general woodworking.  But it's not one I would think of going to for model making.  The first one I pulled out when I wanted to joint the edges of planks was the smoothing plane, FWIW. 

Pete, I should have added that for what I was doing at the time, the Micro Fence base was far better than the Stew Mac base, for me.  But I know many luthiers are completely happy with the Stew Mac base.  It was simply a personal choice rather than a hands down overall better choice.  I wanted the plunge feature to the point I convinced myself I needed the plunge feature.  That kind of convincing oneself can be costly.    
 
FWIW, before I got the Micro Fence base, I removed the Stew Mac base plate and made a larger plate out of lexan so I could see what I was doing better and to span the side rails I made for the inlay routing.  That helped a lot but I had already sold myself on the plunge base as a "necessity".

I have the Stew Mac Dremel base.  I bought it for routing out inlays in guitar necks.  I used it for a while but in the end it found its way to the dust shelf.  I didn't like the depth adjustment feature.  And the dust blower didn't work too well either.  I ended up buying the Micro Fence plunge base.  Expensive but a world of difference from the Stew Mac base.
 
 
With the LED lights and dust extraction, I was able to clearly see where I was routing to some very fine points.

 
A few months ago I got a flyer from Lee Valley.  They now have a plunge base that looks very similar to Micro Fence and a lot cheaper.
 

 
The base alone is $85.  Had their base and attachments been available a couple of years ago, I would have gladly gone that route.     

Mike, before reading vossiewulf's reply, the first plane that came to mind for me is the smoothing plane.  I agree with is comments 100%.  I have used mine for jointing the sides of planks I ripped on the table saw.  And for finish work, it is the best choice.
 
The #62 low angle jack plane however, can be a great all around plane if you equip it with extra plane irons.  I especially love the adjustable throat on mine.  It really helps control the cut. 
 
FWW did an article some time ago about the #62 calling it the only hand plane you need.  In the article, the author recommended having one iron sharpened at 280 and one at 350.  Add the 120 already in the plane bed and you can tackle more jobs.  He also recommended a toothed iron to take the place of a scrub plane and a scraper blade to round out the collection.  You can see how versatile the #62 can be if you do this.  It was the first "real" plane I bought and with it bought the additional irons.  
 
Over time, I added to my plane collection and while I don't use the #62 for everything any more, it is the plane I still use most often for general woodworking.  But it's not one I would think of going to for model making.  The first one I pulled out when I wanted to joint the edges of planks was the smoothing plane, FWIW. 

Michael, tell that young man I am very impressed.  Now did he get mad at the gnarly wood, throw it through a window then the light bulb turned on and behold!  The glass scraper!   

Pete, I should have added that for what I was doing at the time, the Micro Fence base was far better than the Stew Mac base, for me.  But I know many luthiers are completely happy with the Stew Mac base.  It was simply a personal choice rather than a hands down overall better choice.  I wanted the plunge feature to the point I convinced myself I needed the plunge feature.  That kind of convincing oneself can be costly.    
 
FWIW, before I got the Micro Fence base, I removed the Stew Mac base plate and made a larger plate out of lexan so I could see what I was doing better and to span the side rails I made for the inlay routing.  That helped a lot but I had already sold myself on the plunge base as a "necessity".

Mike, before reading vossiewulf's reply, the first plane that came to mind for me is the smoothing plane.  I agree with is comments 100%.  I have used mine for jointing the sides of planks I ripped on the table saw.  And for finish work, it is the best choice.
 
The #62 low angle jack plane however, can be a great all around plane if you equip it with extra plane irons.  I especially love the adjustable throat on mine.  It really helps control the cut. 
 
FWW did an article some time ago about the #62 calling it the only hand plane you need.  In the article, the author recommended having one iron sharpened at 280 and one at 350.  Add the 120 already in the plane bed and you can tackle more jobs.  He also recommended a toothed iron to take the place of a scrub plane and a scraper blade to round out the collection.  You can see how versatile the #62 can be if you do this.  It was the first "real" plane I bought and with it bought the additional irons.  
 
Over time, I added to my plane collection and while I don't use the #62 for everything any more, it is the plane I still use most often for general woodworking.  But it's not one I would think of going to for model making.  The first one I pulled out when I wanted to joint the edges of planks was the smoothing plane, FWIW. 

i used these pushpins lot cheaper, and essentially the same functionality.
 
Jan

Pete, I should have added that for what I was doing at the time, the Micro Fence base was far better than the Stew Mac base, for me.  But I know many luthiers are completely happy with the Stew Mac base.  It was simply a personal choice rather than a hands down overall better choice.  I wanted the plunge feature to the point I convinced myself I needed the plunge feature.  That kind of convincing oneself can be costly.    
 
FWIW, before I got the Micro Fence base, I removed the Stew Mac base plate and made a larger plate out of lexan so I could see what I was doing better and to span the side rails I made for the inlay routing.  That helped a lot but I had already sold myself on the plunge base as a "necessity".

Mike, before reading vossiewulf's reply, the first plane that came to mind for me is the smoothing plane.  I agree with is comments 100%.  I have used mine for jointing the sides of planks I ripped on the table saw.  And for finish work, it is the best choice.
 
The #62 low angle jack plane however, can be a great all around plane if you equip it with extra plane irons.  I especially love the adjustable throat on mine.  It really helps control the cut. 
 
FWW did an article some time ago about the #62 calling it the only hand plane you need.  In the article, the author recommended having one iron sharpened at 280 and one at 350.  Add the 120 already in the plane bed and you can tackle more jobs.  He also recommended a toothed iron to take the place of a scrub plane and a scraper blade to round out the collection.  You can see how versatile the #62 can be if you do this.  It was the first "real" plane I bought and with it bought the additional irons.  
 
Over time, I added to my plane collection and while I don't use the #62 for everything any more, it is the plane I still use most often for general woodworking.  But it's not one I would think of going to for model making.  The first one I pulled out when I wanted to joint the edges of planks was the smoothing plane, FWIW. 

Mike, before reading vossiewulf's reply, the first plane that came to mind for me is the smoothing plane.  I agree with is comments 100%.  I have used mine for jointing the sides of planks I ripped on the table saw.  And for finish work, it is the best choice.
 
The #62 low angle jack plane however, can be a great all around plane if you equip it with extra plane irons.  I especially love the adjustable throat on mine.  It really helps control the cut. 
 
FWW did an article some time ago about the #62 calling it the only hand plane you need.  In the article, the author recommended having one iron sharpened at 280 and one at 350.  Add the 120 already in the plane bed and you can tackle more jobs.  He also recommended a toothed iron to take the place of a scrub plane and a scraper blade to round out the collection.  You can see how versatile the #62 can be if you do this.  It was the first "real" plane I bought and with it bought the additional irons.  
 
Over time, I added to my plane collection and while I don't use the #62 for everything any more, it is the plane I still use most often for general woodworking.  But it's not one I would think of going to for model making.  The first one I pulled out when I wanted to joint the edges of planks was the smoothing plane, FWIW. 

Michael, tell that young man I am very impressed.  Now did he get mad at the gnarly wood, throw it through a window then the light bulb turned on and behold!  The glass scraper!   

Pete, I should have added that for what I was doing at the time, the Micro Fence base was far better than the Stew Mac base, for me.  But I know many luthiers are completely happy with the Stew Mac base.  It was simply a personal choice rather than a hands down overall better choice.  I wanted the plunge feature to the point I convinced myself I needed the plunge feature.  That kind of convincing oneself can be costly.    
 
FWIW, before I got the Micro Fence base, I removed the Stew Mac base plate and made a larger plate out of lexan so I could see what I was doing better and to span the side rails I made for the inlay routing.  That helped a lot but I had already sold myself on the plunge base as a "necessity".

I have the Stew Mac Dremel base.  I bought it for routing out inlays in guitar necks.  I used it for a while but in the end it found its way to the dust shelf.  I didn't like the depth adjustment feature.  And the dust blower didn't work too well either.  I ended up buying the Micro Fence plunge base.  Expensive but a world of difference from the Stew Mac base.
 
 
With the LED lights and dust extraction, I was able to clearly see where I was routing to some very fine points.

 
A few months ago I got a flyer from Lee Valley.  They now have a plunge base that looks very similar to Micro Fence and a lot cheaper.
 

 
The base alone is $85.  Had their base and attachments been available a couple of years ago, I would have gladly gone that route.     

I have the Stew Mac Dremel base.  I bought it for routing out inlays in guitar necks.  I used it for a while but in the end it found its way to the dust shelf.  I didn't like the depth adjustment feature.  And the dust blower didn't work too well either.  I ended up buying the Micro Fence plunge base.  Expensive but a world of difference from the Stew Mac base.
 
 
With the LED lights and dust extraction, I was able to clearly see where I was routing to some very fine points.

 
A few months ago I got a flyer from Lee Valley.  They now have a plunge base that looks very similar to Micro Fence and a lot cheaper.
 

 
The base alone is $85.  Had their base and attachments been available a couple of years ago, I would have gladly gone that route.     

Here's just a quick note about using Dremel bits.  For depth of cut, don't exceed 1/2 of the bit diameter in a single pass, because chip clearance problems and breakage are much more likely to occur.
 
Other than that, I've always thought that Dremels were pretty weak.  But for fashioning very small parts they may be acceptable.  I've always wanted to try a Foredom shaft-driven tool or a pencil/micro air grinder.  However, a quality 1/8" pencil air grinder is not inexpensive ($100s), and the cheap $27 grinder at Harbor Freight gets poor reviews from experienced persons.