dgbot

It is amazing what a single photo can do.
David B

rpeteru, Tom & Michael, thanks for your taking the time to leave a comment.
Michael, the idea of the locating pins is something I picked up from reading Underhill's books. I envy your machining skills to do that out of a solid metal piece, my abilities in that area are not up to that kind of work as yet.
I decided to experiment on this capstan with soldering the whelps on, being only 1mm x 0.5mm, I had some concerns of them melting before the solder ran. Everything worked out nearly perfectly first time. Nice to know this happens occasionally. First picture after "pickling", then after blackening.
 

 

Looking good mate. I would have to agree things would be easier if you were to use something else besides balsa. I like bass and aspen.
David B

Mark, I use vinegar as well. The time is about 1/2 hour. The vinegar leaves a slight residue from the reaction with the brass. Acetone cleans it up pretty good.

Pretty good. At a club meeting one of the members brought in some pieces done by 3d. The company he works for uses them. And like you said. It all depends on how much you are willing to spend. The general consensus was that for super fine detail it was cheaper to cast the part. The cannon barrel was perfect. But at 4.59 each not worth getting one.
David B

Your welcome Jay , About the Seats it's a optical illusion due to different curves and shadows ( I could see what you were seeing as well )the seat's are actually flat . heres another shot , look on the port side where the seat meets the bulkhead , and then you can see the shadow effect on the starboard side . pretty cool effect though.
 
Thank you Geoff , I appreciate it
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Mark
 
The clamps match the Bellona - all class.
 
Thinking of putting in an order for some made of Madagascan ebony with white oak handles please.
 
Great stuff well done.
 
Alan

Today, I started by laying out the deck . I then cut the deck out and installed it, After that I faired the deck in with the Hull.   Next I cut the frames to match the deck line,( as they would have been to fragile to cut in the begining ) I then started to make templates for the cockpit seats, floor, and rear seat. I am pleased with how she is starting to come together, and starting to look more like the 12 1/2 . Here are the results

You have better eye than I do
David B

Nice planking,
David B

Welcome to the Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 build log,
 
Finishing up the running rigging and final pick up, key points include:
>>> Final drops of thinned white glue to secure rigging lines
>>> Rigging coils installed
>>> Ship's boat secured
>>> Final paint touchup
>>> Model cased and mounted in brass pedestals
 
The model now rests in the home of a dear friends in the State of Maine.  They are Maine natives, which is appropriate for this ship is typical of Maine coastal traders of the mid 1800's.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

After looking at the boat last night, I realized that the fairing was not complete. So I started the day by cutting in the Sheer , then spent about 5 hours completing the fairing of the hull . Now it looks more like Capn' Nate's 12 1/2 . This taught me that I will need to re loft my Profile drawing. here are the results

Well in that moment of glee I noticed another kit error, the topping lift needed to be mounted lower down at bottom mast cap.. Fixed that and raised the boom a little.. Looks better :-)

Bravo,well done.
David B

Okay I think im with you guys on the flag... I will prefer it without.. Enough said..  Part of me wanted to use it because i bought it...
 
 
 
Well o well, i cant believe it! no more blocks, rings eyebolts etc etc..   Not that i havn't enjoyed it..  At first i was like what is all this stuff ruining my build, it all just looked a bit funny. Until ALL the rigging was in place, now i think it really makes the model..
 
I might have to adjust boom up just a bit and do all the rope coils on belaying points and cleats and i am almost done...
 
I had this wild idea that things would kind of get easier towards the end! No sir.. It's difficult right to the end o frigging, oh i mean rigging
I'm sure these last coils will test me, it just gets so scary and tricky having to work amongst tight spaces and im glad i dont have huge wide hands..
 
I also kept feeling i was close to the end of the build and it keeps going! Yes It still is..  For those who have started more than one ship without finishing their first, I think you really should follow one through first to know all the aspects.  The build changes dramatically throughout... There are stages that feel and are totally different to each other. Towards the end it becomes a whole new game with the rigging and the risks of damaging your previous many months or years of work is very. You dont need amny tools towards to the end but lots of patience...   At times i bumped rigging lines and scared myself, the strength of the whole thing has surprised me at times.. 
 
Anyway, I'm on a bit of a high and the pictures are not doing it justice, I really need to get outside and do some natural light shots. perhaps down the creek...  Will take some detailed shots soon...    Ollie
 
 
 
 

Or............
 
..........you could come over to the truly dark side and try the Yamato in card.  Halinski publishes one in 1:200 and offers brass barrels and PE details (five sheets).  Digital Navy publishes one in 1:250.
 
Yeah, I know -- not the advice you were looking for.

Several members of my clubs have been doing the Longboat and have had the same problems.  It was discovered that if you only use white glue you can redo a frame or part.  One member had to redo most of his frames.  By saturating the part in iso alcohol and wrapping it the glue dissolved after a couple of hours.  In your case it might no take as long.  Do one frame at a time. 
David B

Welcome to the Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 build log,
 
Continuing with the masts and final rigging, key points include:
 
Mast installation:
>>> Fife rails were fitted following mast installation
>>> LESSONS LEARNED FOR FUTURE BUILDS - INSTALL FWD FIFE RAIL IN TWO PIECES AFTER RIGGING FORE LOWER YARD LIFT AND FORE TOPSAIL SHEET TACKLES
 
Stays, shrouds, backstays, and ratlines:
>>> Fore stays, main stays, shrouds, and back stays setup
>>> Stays, shrouds, backstays tensioned and head rigging completed
>>> Fore & aft ratlines fitted
 
Sails and running rigging:
>>> Jibs and forestay sail fitted as the fore stays were set up
 
"Eagle" 1847 is almost complete now; remaing posts will cover fitting the remaining spars, sails, running rigging, and final outfit details.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 build log,
 
Continuing with final rigging, key points include:
 
Final Setup:
>>> Topmasts fitted to main & fore masts
>>> Shrouds, topmast shrouds, and stays fitted to mast assemblies
>>> Main gaff topsail fitted to the main mast assembly
>>> Main and fore sail fitted to gaffs & booms
>>> Fore topsail fitted to fore topsail yard
>>> Fore staysail fitted to fore staysail boom
>>> Fore lower yard fitted to fore mast assembly
 
Setting the Masts:
>>> Main and fore mast fitted 
>>> Shroud and stay setup commenced
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

I did make more progress on it on Friday.  after the paint was dry,  I put the frames in it.
 

 

 
I began to make the aft cabin
 

 
once it was squared off,  I did a bit of sanding,  and then put the roof on.
 

 

 
it was time to trim and attach the funnel
 

 

 
then the rim was made from some very flexible wood stock and cemented in place.  it was sanded and shaped......filler was used to fill in the small gaps
 

 

 
I did a bit of sanding,  and then gave it a coat of primer,  to seal the balsa.  this will be sanded a bit more later
 

 
I gave it a coat of paint.   perhaps I can do something to hide the small imperfections
 

 

 
as you can see,  this Billing's paint is very shiny.   I have never used any paints,  that had this much shine.   it dries to a hard finish.....good for the balsa........god know how many marks I had to sand away while doing this

Popeye, I just finished going through your build log and I found your build very enlightening.  I have always had a fondness for working vessels.  The way you are building your Syborn has taught me many new things. 
David B

Try isopropyl alcohol regular strength. If you can get 99% that would be better. Just keep the joint wet or wrap it in plastic wrap. After a while the glue will disolve.
David B

Take good care of her. Good job on your ponce wheel.
David B

thank you for the  'likes'  gentlemen......I apologize for not getting the progress up sooner.   I had this done yesterday,  but my first mate had to go to the vet for his check up.  he did very well
 
anyway.........to set the stage for the fore deck planking,  a 1/16 border was lined along the edges for the stanchions.   a  'tip' was also added the the bow stem......repeated sanding rounded the edges a little,  and this was done to change the look.
 

 

 
I think I should have extended this along the cabin bulkhead,  but with the companionway and stairs,  I figured that I had better not.  a border plank was laid spanning across,  and the deck planking will meet it.
 

 
as this was done......I got the feeling that I may be wrong in my assumption of the plank color.  I need to remember that the main deck was done some time ago.......it has had plenty of time to cure.
 

 
I did a bit of sanding once the starboard side was done........just me being impatient with how it will look.
 

 
all sanded and ready for clear coat.   I used a semi gloss lacquer for the main deck,  and so I will here as well.  caution.........the colors will be way off,  but I think as it cures,  it will dull down.
 

 
the roof of the companionway has been painted.   here it is with two coats applied.
 

Here is new riveting jig with final test results. When rolling, stands still, and allow precise moves and lines 
 
YEAH !!! I can finally continue ( with removing slices I have glued first...)
 

 

 

 
Rivets are convex, just as they have to be, neat, not big to much, and I am happy   
 
Yesterday I smuggled another new hand tool !!!! Drill 0,5 mm with holder !!!
 

 
Works very fine
 
And now, I have nice collection of little drills from 3mm until 0,5 mm
 

 
Of course, there have to be some necessary security steps conditioned by periodically Hothead presence in workshop
 

 
In Belgrade it rains whole day, and I can no work in garden, so, considering I do not like to watch football even it is World Championship, I hardly wait to finish office job and to go downstairs to Her ...