mikeaidanh

Thanks Jaager and GLakie for your good advice. I may try your solutions but first I am going to research the bench top planer/thicknesser market here in the UK. If I can imagine that this scenario is likely to come up more frequently then a "proper" tool may be the way forward.
On the other hand I do like the idea of making do with what I have but the trouble is that my band saw is a Proxxon and very lightweight.
 
I would be interested to hear from any UK builder who has experience with this problem .
 
Once again, many thanks for your responses.
 
Mike.

Money and space no object and noise not a consideration? A plane/r thicknesser. 
 
I have just come across a problem. Having managed to obtain 2 billets of boxwood 24" x 2" x 2", which are not square and are "cupped", and having only a small bandsaw and a Byrnes saw I now need to true the billets up before cutting down to size for the Byrnes.
I must now resort to finding a friendly joinery shop owner and begging a favour.
More money and more space in a sound deadened workshop. It aint going to happen!
 
Mike.

Thanks Jaager and GLakie for your good advice. I may try your solutions but first I am going to research the bench top planer/thicknesser market here in the UK. If I can imagine that this scenario is likely to come up more frequently then a "proper" tool may be the way forward.
On the other hand I do like the idea of making do with what I have but the trouble is that my band saw is a Proxxon and very lightweight.
 
I would be interested to hear from any UK builder who has experience with this problem .
 
Once again, many thanks for your responses.
 
Mike.

Thanks Jaager and GLakie for your good advice. I may try your solutions but first I am going to research the bench top planer/thicknesser market here in the UK. If I can imagine that this scenario is likely to come up more frequently then a "proper" tool may be the way forward.
On the other hand I do like the idea of making do with what I have but the trouble is that my band saw is a Proxxon and very lightweight.
 
I would be interested to hear from any UK builder who has experience with this problem .
 
Once again, many thanks for your responses.
 
Mike.

Thanks Jaager and GLakie for your good advice. I may try your solutions but first I am going to research the bench top planer/thicknesser market here in the UK. If I can imagine that this scenario is likely to come up more frequently then a "proper" tool may be the way forward.
On the other hand I do like the idea of making do with what I have but the trouble is that my band saw is a Proxxon and very lightweight.
 
I would be interested to hear from any UK builder who has experience with this problem .
 
Once again, many thanks for your responses.
 
Mike.

Mike those cupped billets you have can be trued by you, and all you need is one flat board, temporarily glued to one side, getting it as close to parallel as you can. Then using your fence, shave off what you need to make the other side flat. Remove the guide board and repeat on the adjacent side. 

Mike,
 
About the Boxwood.  24 inches is nice, but longer than you need if you are 1:48 or smaller scale.
If it were twisted,  there usually is a place along the length where a cross cut gives you two reasonably flat pieces.
 
To square it up - a bandsaw  -  fix the Boxwood to a flat board with a straight edge to ride against the fence. I use drywall screws and right angle framing braces - small round head screws will hold the brace to the carrier board. Aline the Boxwood so that the overhang at the outer edge of the carrier board will get you a straight face losing the least amount of wood. One true face.  Turn the Boxwood so that the face you cut is down.   The wood will be easier to fix to the carrier since it will not want to rock now. Get a right angle true face with the new overhang.  With two straight flat faces at a right angle, you are set to cut it with just the table and fence. 
 
The poser will be figuring out how thick to make the stock slices.  As I said, 2 feet is a bit long and awkward but certainly doable.  The Byrnes saw will take 15/16" thick stock, but Boxwood is fiercely hard. Jim has a big motor on the saw, but Boxwood is tough work that thick.  I would figure out the max thickness lumber I need and use the bandsaw to give me slices near that thickness - with enough extra to sacrifice to the planer to get 220 smooth on both sides.  Getting at least one edge 90 degree true and straight is pretty much vital also.
 
My condolences about how much of this rare wood you will lose to waste and kerf to get usable stock.

Money and space no object and noise not a consideration? A plane/r thicknesser. 
 
I have just come across a problem. Having managed to obtain 2 billets of boxwood 24" x 2" x 2", which are not square and are "cupped", and having only a small bandsaw and a Byrnes saw I now need to true the billets up before cutting down to size for the Byrnes.
I must now resort to finding a friendly joinery shop owner and begging a favour.
More money and more space in a sound deadened workshop. It aint going to happen!
 
Mike.

Greg, if you already have a drill press, check this out.  It's also sold at Stew-Mac, the same place that sells the 6" thin kerf circular saw blade.  It's designed as a thickness sander and works pretty well.  I'm finding a number of luthier tools cross over well into model making.
 

Money and space no object and noise not a consideration? A plane/r thicknesser. 
 
I have just come across a problem. Having managed to obtain 2 billets of boxwood 24" x 2" x 2", which are not square and are "cupped", and having only a small bandsaw and a Byrnes saw I now need to true the billets up before cutting down to size for the Byrnes.
I must now resort to finding a friendly joinery shop owner and begging a favour.
More money and more space in a sound deadened workshop. It aint going to happen!
 
Mike.

Thank You very much  .  Just a small update as I got tired of making rope today.  I started in the chainplates and deadeyes.  They are made pretty much like the others I showed, only longer.  The deadeyes are stroped with 22 gauge black wire. I have six more to go and probably will get that done after Thanksgiving.  I wish all of you a happy and tummy stuffing turkey day.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

Thank you gents!!!   Hopefully get the other side done this weekend and start on the deadeyes and chainplates.

You have no heading for iron/steel ship models - if of interest to the other model makers, I would be pleased to put up a truncated version of the 'Current Project' on my own web site at:
 
http://www.wworkshop.net/Falls_of_Clyde/Menu.html
 
I can leave out the tool making, and take the viewer through a dozen or so photos, enough to show the process and progress of the construction.  I see nothing similar in your splendid web site.
 
With respect,  Gerald

As it happens I have just obtained a Proxxon  vice and, as I already own a Dremel one, I have made a side by side comparison.
Where Dremel use plastic Proxxon use metal. My Dremel is suffering a plastic section failure where it is bending under tension rather than tightening. I will keep the Dremel as the jaws open much wider than the Proxxon but the latter will be my day by day tool.
 
For UK buyers. It is still cheaper to buy direct from Germany, TBS-Aachen in my case, even though Amazon list TBS as an alternative supplier! When will this ripping off end?
 
Mike.

When using "sharps" work away from areas that bleed. Use a bench stop in lieu of a hand. Work towards the stop.
Always engage brain before using "sharps"
Here endeth the lesson.

As it happens I have just obtained a Proxxon  vice and, as I already own a Dremel one, I have made a side by side comparison.
Where Dremel use plastic Proxxon use metal. My Dremel is suffering a plastic section failure where it is bending under tension rather than tightening. I will keep the Dremel as the jaws open much wider than the Proxxon but the latter will be my day by day tool.
 
For UK buyers. It is still cheaper to buy direct from Germany, TBS-Aachen in my case, even though Amazon list TBS as an alternative supplier! When will this ripping off end?
 
Mike.

When using "sharps" work away from areas that bleed. Use a bench stop in lieu of a hand. Work towards the stop.
Always engage brain before using "sharps"
Here endeth the lesson.

As it happens I have just obtained a Proxxon  vice and, as I already own a Dremel one, I have made a side by side comparison.
Where Dremel use plastic Proxxon use metal. My Dremel is suffering a plastic section failure where it is bending under tension rather than tightening. I will keep the Dremel as the jaws open much wider than the Proxxon but the latter will be my day by day tool.
 
For UK buyers. It is still cheaper to buy direct from Germany, TBS-Aachen in my case, even though Amazon list TBS as an alternative supplier! When will this ripping off end?
 
Mike.

When using "sharps" work away from areas that bleed. Use a bench stop in lieu of a hand. Work towards the stop.
Always engage brain before using "sharps"
Here endeth the lesson.

When using "sharps" work away from areas that bleed. Use a bench stop in lieu of a hand. Work towards the stop.
Always engage brain before using "sharps"
Here endeth the lesson.

When using "sharps" work away from areas that bleed. Use a bench stop in lieu of a hand. Work towards the stop.
Always engage brain before using "sharps"
Here endeth the lesson.

You slip and because you have not learned to keep your other hand clear or you are pulling a blade toward you, you bleed Next you heal up and have gained some practical experience. Gloves, leave them in the store and pay your dues.
jud

NO , don't use these - they require an air compressor to deliver between 40-80 PSI.  Use one of the one's recommended by CANUTE or CHBORGM.

Reading someones build log on one of the Russian forums,I found another technique for caulking.Apologies that I cannot name the builder,the translator keeps going into meltdown and my keyboard doesn't have a Cyrillic function.
To cut to the chase,the planking is laid with a 0.2 to 0.3mm gap between each strake.After sanding and cleaning the sanding debris out of the grooves and a couple of coats of oil,wax is applied into the gaps.This is the stick form used for repairing scratches in furniture.This is done cold.The wax is then consolidated with the end of a needle.I realise this is similar to Dimitry Shevelev's technique except he uses a bitumous finish to highlight the caulking and age the surrounding timber.After removing excess wax another coat of oil is applied.Just wondered if anyone has tried this?I am considering doing a mock up and giving it a trial run.For me,this is about the nicest caulking I have seen.The timber is Pear and the wax is dark brown(numerous shades are easily available)Incidentally the build is 1/84.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hello all, after a few busy days, now I get a bit of time to rest and to write something about Cog of Ragusa to you ...
First of all I am grateful for the warm welcome and visiting our website ... Donfarr, jazzchip ... thanks a lot ,
thanks for the likes ...
... 'Cog' is a project that we were building a year or two before its realization ... the basic guiding was votive fresco
of her from the sixteenth century ... lower its black and white photo of the fresco ... the silhouettes of people
on the bow and the mast top were very helpful. We took that they were around 1.75m high and we made the Ragusian Cog
reconstruction ...
... So, after two years of work, this is what we get: the text that we wrote about this type of Cog is following
and is copied from our site:
 
Cog is the war and merchant ship in the North Sea, the Mediterranean and the Adriatic Sea, with a big lead
and two small reserve masts, whose main characteristic is high and tight bow tower forward with a almost horizontal
triangular deck. One feature of this ship are the side openings for boarding horses and cattle and it is designed
primarly for transporting army. It is mentioned for the first time in the 11th century, and across the Mediterranean
in the 13th century. These ships were initially inaccessible thanks to the impregnable castle. Together with Cogs
often sailed caravels and carrack.
 
... This is a model with completely furnished interiors, store and cabins,which makes it very beautiful and
interesting. The keel and the posts are made of solid walnut wood, like all the elements below the deck and
the deck. The sails are embroidered on the cloth. In the box there are 11 plates laser cut.
There are bars and all the necessary material. The model is designed for experienced modeler, but beginners, with a little
effort and following the instructions do not have problems with the construction of her ... You will really enjoy
in the realization of this model.
 
... Now, for the first hand, here are some photos of the prototype of the model-made in parallel with the project ....
I was very cheerful to say something about the way of making the assembly kit ... it's what I intend to do next ...
 
Best regards