mikeaidanh

I am forgetting my manners.......thank you for the welcome messages from ever pleasant members of this excellent forum.

I have had mine for a couple of years and I get on with it very well. There is not too much to say really as it has no vices nor is it excessively virtuous. A well made piece of kit. Add the narrowest blade available from Proxxon to your order.
Mike.

I have had mine for a couple of years and I get on with it very well. There is not too much to say really as it has no vices nor is it excessively virtuous. A well made piece of kit. Add the narrowest blade available from Proxxon to your order.
Mike.

I mean to try this in conjunction with my HMS Cheerful. There is no Cheerful log yet but there will be soon.
I have been prevented from doing much model making recently as "life" got in the way......as it tends to do.
I look forward to gaining access to the Triton plans.
Mike.

I am forgetting my manners.......thank you for the welcome messages from ever pleasant members of this excellent forum.

I am forgetting my manners.......thank you for the welcome messages from ever pleasant members of this excellent forum.

I am forgetting my manners.......thank you for the welcome messages from ever pleasant members of this excellent forum.

I have just downloaded the plans. For the next few days I shall be closeted in a darkened room whilst getting my head around them.

I have just downloaded the plans. For the next few days I shall be closeted in a darkened room whilst getting my head around them.

I have just downloaded the plans. For the next few days I shall be closeted in a darkened room whilst getting my head around them.

I mean to try this in conjunction with my HMS Cheerful. There is no Cheerful log yet but there will be soon.
I have been prevented from doing much model making recently as "life" got in the way......as it tends to do.
I look forward to gaining access to the Triton plans.
Mike.

I mean to try this in conjunction with my HMS Cheerful. There is no Cheerful log yet but there will be soon.
I have been prevented from doing much model making recently as "life" got in the way......as it tends to do.
I look forward to gaining access to the Triton plans.
Mike.

I mean to try this in conjunction with my HMS Cheerful. There is no Cheerful log yet but there will be soon.
I have been prevented from doing much model making recently as "life" got in the way......as it tends to do.
I look forward to gaining access to the Triton plans.
Mike.

I mean to try this in conjunction with my HMS Cheerful. There is no Cheerful log yet but there will be soon.
I have been prevented from doing much model making recently as "life" got in the way......as it tends to do.
I look forward to gaining access to the Triton plans.
Mike.

Its so hard to explain in writing.  When I was in art school,  there was a whole semester class on how to use a paint brush effectively and what shaped brush to use.  Its counter to what most would think as well.  I have a 1/2 hour tech session on describing the techniques developed because its something you must see to really get.  Even better still,  it is best to hand out brushes to those watching and have them try it as you go.  Surprisingly there is a lot to point out even though you wouldnt expect that to be the case.
 
This class at Parsons was about color theory but also about brush handling.  We had to draw small square swatches, 1" x 1" and paint them to create our own swatch book of color theory.   The color theory aside,  the teacher was vigilant in demanding these swatches be painted by hand with a brush and you stay in the lines.  That each swatch be perfectly flat with not a trace of brush strokes.  If there were any....you would get a really poor grade.  It wasnt until a decade after I took that class that I recognized how important it was for our hobby purposes.  
 
I will try and put together something with photos to describe the techniques.   Just for starters...I dont have any flat brushes in my shop at all.  They are worthless for painting smooth areas you dont want brush strokes to appear on.  I also have no small brushes in workshop at all.  I have only medium and large round brushes.   They are soft and medium soft.  More suited for water colors than for oils or acrylic.   This is because even though I am using acrylic paint, they are used more like water colors.  
 
To understand why,  the lightbulbs always go off when folks see me use a flat brush in the traditional way and I describe how it is wrong for our purposes and show what happens when you use them.  Everyone uses flat brushes....throw them away except for maybe using them as dust brushes.
 
Then I describe how to effectively use a round brush that most would think is way too large for our purposes.  But after showing how to paint in the right direction and pull the brush as I am cutting a straight line,  they are converted pretty quick into believers.  This usually starts with drawing a square box on a piece of soft basswood 1" x 1".  It is very possibly if not easier to paint this square swatch perfectly flat with no brush strokes evident afterwards.... and cut in the lines around the perimeter so you have a sharp clean box freehand with a round brush.  No taping or masking required.
 
But again.....better to see it than describe it.  And then there is the surface prep and crack filling before you even start painting.  AND...very important....PINKY's up.   How to use your pinky finger as a control.  Resting your pinky finger on the surface to steady your hand and gain lots of control. If by chance there is no good place to rest my pinky in a certain part of the model,  the painting clearly doesnt go as well.  Its very important to learn what to do with your hands and how to hold the brush.
 
I have showed quite a few people in my shop how to do this and maybe they are better with their words and can explain it better.  But I will attempt to take some pictures as I paint on some basswood.  A notoriously bad wood to paint and expect to get a good finish on.  If you are using better wood like box or in my case cherry its even more of a pleasure to do.
 
I used Galleria Windsor and Newton Brand acrylic paint from a tube.  BUT...the paint as of late is slipping in quality so I have switched to Grumbacher brand and like it very much.  But for some odd reason I decided to use the Windsor and Newton on this model.  The color is Crimson...straight from the tube.

Yes a stove and a capstan are mini-kits that are on my to-do list.   They are in fact already designed.  I just have to find time to build the prototypes and get them to market.   
 
Probably after the Cheerful and barge is finished.
 
Speaking of the barge.   Just a bit of progress to report,   I am much more comfortable with it now as the footwales and platforms are in.  This really strengthens the hull.   
 
One of the issues on the longboat and pinnace kit were watching folks not know where the the platforms and seats should be.  How deep in the hull.....etc.  Using this device you will be able to measure off the plan and then transfer the tick marks to your model.  You will mark the height on the frames where each element should be.  This takes the guesswork out of it.  You will use this tool to determine the proper placement for the platforms and seats and thwarts and inboard planking.
 
First place the tool against the inboard plan at a frame.  Measure from the top of the caprail down to the top of the element you are working on....like the aft platform..make a tick mark
 

 
Then sit the depth gauge tool on top of the sheer caprail of your model against that same frame. Slide it port to starboard until your tick mark lines up with the inside of the frame.  Transfer that mark.
 

 
Its a simple device but it works really really well.
 

 
I would also like to comment that in my honest opinion if you get this far with the kit you are about 45% finished.  There really arent that many more parts except of course the carving which will take time.  BUT since up to this point every single piece is laser cut for you it goes very quickly.  This includes the floorboards and platforms.  My goal is to laser cut all of the parts to this kit if its humanly possible.  This goes for all of the inboard parts and planking too.
 

 
 
Chuck
 
 

Thanks Don...
 
I nailed the planks today.  The clinker planks had a row of nails along the bottom edge that actually went through the beveled plank beneath it.  You can see that in this image of the queen Mary barge.  Black mono-filament was used and this will be added to every kit so you guys can use it and try it out.  Its a great way to simulate bolts on other projects and in this case nails.  It went quickly.  You can see that they used many more nails than I showed but ike the contemporary models I am just showing a stylized version of it with far few.
 

 
I used 20 pound black line which required drilling with a #74 bit.  Then dip in CA and stick it in the hole.  Use a straight razor to cut the line flush.  Its nice stuff to work with.  I may switch to 15 pound line for the kits though.   Slightly smaller.   But each kit will come with more than enough to complete this model and some extra so you can use it on other things.
 

 
The molding was added and I even got a chance to paint some red on the hull.
 
Its summer so sales are slow and I have more time work on the models.  I almost forgot how much fun it is. 
 

 
Chuck

Chuck,
 
I'd say play to your strengths.  You design beautiful kits with a history. Instructions that are second to none. There's options on purchasing (that's a big plus) such that if the buyer wants better wood, they can get what they need from you and "good wood" from elsewhere.  This saves the buyer some cash on the kit.  Options on the fittings.   
 
You're already basically allowing your customers to "roll their own prices".  You have range of kits in work or available.  I take it that Winchelsea is next?
 
From what I see, you're doing right by your customers.

Chuck,
 
I do not know if this will help or not. I have a copy of Timothy Wilson's " Flags at Sea" in which the attached illustration can be seen. I have no idea how this publication compares with other sources but it may be of some use.......or merely muddy the waters further!
 

 
Top line left to right;
 
English Royal Standard c 1407 to 1603.
British Royal Standard 1603 to 89 and 1702 to 07.
British Royal Standard 1689 to 1702.
 
Middle line left to right;
 
British Royal Standard 1707 to 14.
British Royal Standard 1714 to 1800.
British Royal Standard 1801 to 16.
 
Bottom line left to right;
 
British Royal Standard 1816 to 37.
British Royal Standard modern.
 
Mike.
 
 
 

Chuck,
 
I do not know if this will help or not. I have a copy of Timothy Wilson's " Flags at Sea" in which the attached illustration can be seen. I have no idea how this publication compares with other sources but it may be of some use.......or merely muddy the waters further!
 

 
Top line left to right;
 
English Royal Standard c 1407 to 1603.
British Royal Standard 1603 to 89 and 1702 to 07.
British Royal Standard 1689 to 1702.
 
Middle line left to right;
 
British Royal Standard 1707 to 14.
British Royal Standard 1714 to 1800.
British Royal Standard 1801 to 16.
 
Bottom line left to right;
 
British Royal Standard 1816 to 37.
British Royal Standard modern.
 
Mike.
 
 
 

Chuck,
 
I do not know if this will help or not. I have a copy of Timothy Wilson's " Flags at Sea" in which the attached illustration can be seen. I have no idea how this publication compares with other sources but it may be of some use.......or merely muddy the waters further!
 

 
Top line left to right;
 
English Royal Standard c 1407 to 1603.
British Royal Standard 1603 to 89 and 1702 to 07.
British Royal Standard 1689 to 1702.
 
Middle line left to right;
 
British Royal Standard 1707 to 14.
British Royal Standard 1714 to 1800.
British Royal Standard 1801 to 16.
 
Bottom line left to right;
 
British Royal Standard 1816 to 37.
British Royal Standard modern.
 
Mike.
 
 
 

Chuck,
 
I do not know if this will help or not. I have a copy of Timothy Wilson's " Flags at Sea" in which the attached illustration can be seen. I have no idea how this publication compares with other sources but it may be of some use.......or merely muddy the waters further!
 

 
Top line left to right;
 
English Royal Standard c 1407 to 1603.
British Royal Standard 1603 to 89 and 1702 to 07.
British Royal Standard 1689 to 1702.
 
Middle line left to right;
 
British Royal Standard 1707 to 14.
British Royal Standard 1714 to 1800.
British Royal Standard 1801 to 16.
 
Bottom line left to right;
 
British Royal Standard 1816 to 37.
British Royal Standard modern.
 
Mike.
 
 
 

Chuck,
 
I do not know if this will help or not. I have a copy of Timothy Wilson's " Flags at Sea" in which the attached illustration can be seen. I have no idea how this publication compares with other sources but it may be of some use.......or merely muddy the waters further!
 

 
Top line left to right;
 
English Royal Standard c 1407 to 1603.
British Royal Standard 1603 to 89 and 1702 to 07.
British Royal Standard 1689 to 1702.
 
Middle line left to right;
 
British Royal Standard 1707 to 14.
British Royal Standard 1714 to 1800.
British Royal Standard 1801 to 16.
 
Bottom line left to right;
 
British Royal Standard 1816 to 37.
British Royal Standard modern.
 
Mike.
 
 
 

Chuck,
 
I do not know if this will help or not. I have a copy of Timothy Wilson's " Flags at Sea" in which the attached illustration can be seen. I have no idea how this publication compares with other sources but it may be of some use.......or merely muddy the waters further!
 

 
Top line left to right;
 
English Royal Standard c 1407 to 1603.
British Royal Standard 1603 to 89 and 1702 to 07.
British Royal Standard 1689 to 1702.
 
Middle line left to right;
 
British Royal Standard 1707 to 14.
British Royal Standard 1714 to 1800.
British Royal Standard 1801 to 16.
 
Bottom line left to right;
 
British Royal Standard 1816 to 37.
British Royal Standard modern.
 
Mike.
 
 
 

Chuck you have a way of making people think differently. I know I am going to struggle following your ideas ( I am already exercised by Cheerful! ) but they will be interesting and educational struggles.
 
Good on you!
 
Mike.