6ohiocav

SHIPS BOATS
I decided to scrap the sliced bread boat frames provided by the kit. Instead, I downloaded a plan for building a jig that allowed me to scratch build the boats.
I copied the jig frames and glued them to some birch plywood and cut them out on the bandsaw. I then assembled the jig and attached cherry veneer strips on the outer edge of the frames and inserted the ends in the bottom slit in the jig frames which held them in place.
I then cut a series of thin holly (very white) strip wood to use as planks. Using CA, I started to glue the stripwood to the cherry lined frames, being careful not to spill any glue onto the cherry strips that would affix them to the frames, since you have to remove the entire assembly from the jig after it is done. I also decided to overlap the holly stripwood to give it a realistic look. This eliminated the need to taper any of the strips.
Here are some photos of my first proto-type. Not bad for my first time, but I discovered some problems. As stated, I used cherry veneer for the frame wood, because it was easier to bend around the sharp corners of the jig frames. However, it was not stiff enough to hold the shape of the boat when I removed it from the jig. The vertical lines of the frames drifted outward quite a bit since the cherry veneer was not strong enough to hold it in place.
So back to the drawing board.  I need to use a stiffer material, and that means that I need to decide whether I can bent it around the jig frames, some of which are sharper than 90 degrees, or whether I can cut them out of solid wood in the proper shape, and still make them thin enough and strong enough to meet my needs

MAIN SHEET, TACK AND CLUELINES,
Got my order of .18 Rope from Syren so that I could finish rigging the Sheet and Tack lines for the Main Mast. I had to strop three blocks together, following suggestions from Petersson’s Rigging book.
I then attached the lines to eyebolts and rigged them through the blocks and then through the sheaves in the bulwarks.
AND WITH THAT………………….. I am DONE WITH THE RIGGING.
Here are some final photos.
I need to come up with a method of attaching the painted name on the stern. Following Mike’s suggestion, I am searching out a decal that I can print on. I also need to work on flags.
But up next…. Ships Boats.

Mark,
I started with thin (1mm) holly strips, and I soaked them in boiling water and glued them on while they were still wet. I left the boat in the jig until it dried, and when I separated it from the jig, the gunnels flared out.
 
Steve, Very good observation. That was my first thought as well to pull the sides back into shape with the seats. As I squeeze the gunnels together back into shape however, there is enough resistance to cause me worry that I may break the planks.  I may have to steam the entire structure and give that a try.
 
Ron,
I might try your method for printing the name on black matte and see how it works.
 
Mike,
Good suggestion, but I am going to stick with wooden frames for now. The plan is holly for the planking and cherry for the rest. According to Petersson, that three block configuration is only used on the Course Yards and only on the Main Mast. The foremast course yard is rigged with a two block configuration.  Please forgive me if I am not using the proper terminology. 
 
In the end, a firmer framing material is still the proper remedy for the boats, and my next attempts will focus on that.

SHIPS BOATS
I decided to scrap the sliced bread boat frames provided by the kit. Instead, I downloaded a plan for building a jig that allowed me to scratch build the boats.
I copied the jig frames and glued them to some birch plywood and cut them out on the bandsaw. I then assembled the jig and attached cherry veneer strips on the outer edge of the frames and inserted the ends in the bottom slit in the jig frames which held them in place.
I then cut a series of thin holly (very white) strip wood to use as planks. Using CA, I started to glue the stripwood to the cherry lined frames, being careful not to spill any glue onto the cherry strips that would affix them to the frames, since you have to remove the entire assembly from the jig after it is done. I also decided to overlap the holly stripwood to give it a realistic look. This eliminated the need to taper any of the strips.
Here are some photos of my first proto-type. Not bad for my first time, but I discovered some problems. As stated, I used cherry veneer for the frame wood, because it was easier to bend around the sharp corners of the jig frames. However, it was not stiff enough to hold the shape of the boat when I removed it from the jig. The vertical lines of the frames drifted outward quite a bit since the cherry veneer was not strong enough to hold it in place.
So back to the drawing board.  I need to use a stiffer material, and that means that I need to decide whether I can bent it around the jig frames, some of which are sharper than 90 degrees, or whether I can cut them out of solid wood in the proper shape, and still make them thin enough and strong enough to meet my needs

MAIN SHEET, TACK AND CLUELINES,
Got my order of .18 Rope from Syren so that I could finish rigging the Sheet and Tack lines for the Main Mast. I had to strop three blocks together, following suggestions from Petersson’s Rigging book.
I then attached the lines to eyebolts and rigged them through the blocks and then through the sheaves in the bulwarks.
AND WITH THAT………………….. I am DONE WITH THE RIGGING.
Here are some final photos.
I need to come up with a method of attaching the painted name on the stern. Following Mike’s suggestion, I am searching out a decal that I can print on. I also need to work on flags.
But up next…. Ships Boats.

SHIPS BOATS
I decided to scrap the sliced bread boat frames provided by the kit. Instead, I downloaded a plan for building a jig that allowed me to scratch build the boats.
I copied the jig frames and glued them to some birch plywood and cut them out on the bandsaw. I then assembled the jig and attached cherry veneer strips on the outer edge of the frames and inserted the ends in the bottom slit in the jig frames which held them in place.
I then cut a series of thin holly (very white) strip wood to use as planks. Using CA, I started to glue the stripwood to the cherry lined frames, being careful not to spill any glue onto the cherry strips that would affix them to the frames, since you have to remove the entire assembly from the jig after it is done. I also decided to overlap the holly stripwood to give it a realistic look. This eliminated the need to taper any of the strips.
Here are some photos of my first proto-type. Not bad for my first time, but I discovered some problems. As stated, I used cherry veneer for the frame wood, because it was easier to bend around the sharp corners of the jig frames. However, it was not stiff enough to hold the shape of the boat when I removed it from the jig. The vertical lines of the frames drifted outward quite a bit since the cherry veneer was not strong enough to hold it in place.
So back to the drawing board.  I need to use a stiffer material, and that means that I need to decide whether I can bent it around the jig frames, some of which are sharper than 90 degrees, or whether I can cut them out of solid wood in the proper shape, and still make them thin enough and strong enough to meet my needs

MAIN SHEET, TACK AND CLUELINES,
Got my order of .18 Rope from Syren so that I could finish rigging the Sheet and Tack lines for the Main Mast. I had to strop three blocks together, following suggestions from Petersson’s Rigging book.
I then attached the lines to eyebolts and rigged them through the blocks and then through the sheaves in the bulwarks.
AND WITH THAT………………….. I am DONE WITH THE RIGGING.
Here are some final photos.
I need to come up with a method of attaching the painted name on the stern. Following Mike’s suggestion, I am searching out a decal that I can print on. I also need to work on flags.
But up next…. Ships Boats.

SHIPS BOATS
I decided to scrap the sliced bread boat frames provided by the kit. Instead, I downloaded a plan for building a jig that allowed me to scratch build the boats.
I copied the jig frames and glued them to some birch plywood and cut them out on the bandsaw. I then assembled the jig and attached cherry veneer strips on the outer edge of the frames and inserted the ends in the bottom slit in the jig frames which held them in place.
I then cut a series of thin holly (very white) strip wood to use as planks. Using CA, I started to glue the stripwood to the cherry lined frames, being careful not to spill any glue onto the cherry strips that would affix them to the frames, since you have to remove the entire assembly from the jig after it is done. I also decided to overlap the holly stripwood to give it a realistic look. This eliminated the need to taper any of the strips.
Here are some photos of my first proto-type. Not bad for my first time, but I discovered some problems. As stated, I used cherry veneer for the frame wood, because it was easier to bend around the sharp corners of the jig frames. However, it was not stiff enough to hold the shape of the boat when I removed it from the jig. The vertical lines of the frames drifted outward quite a bit since the cherry veneer was not strong enough to hold it in place.
So back to the drawing board.  I need to use a stiffer material, and that means that I need to decide whether I can bent it around the jig frames, some of which are sharper than 90 degrees, or whether I can cut them out of solid wood in the proper shape, and still make them thin enough and strong enough to meet my needs

MAIN SHEET, TACK AND CLUELINES,
Got my order of .18 Rope from Syren so that I could finish rigging the Sheet and Tack lines for the Main Mast. I had to strop three blocks together, following suggestions from Petersson’s Rigging book.
I then attached the lines to eyebolts and rigged them through the blocks and then through the sheaves in the bulwarks.
AND WITH THAT………………….. I am DONE WITH THE RIGGING.
Here are some final photos.
I need to come up with a method of attaching the painted name on the stern. Following Mike’s suggestion, I am searching out a decal that I can print on. I also need to work on flags.
But up next…. Ships Boats.

MAIN SHEET, TACK AND CLUELINES,
Got my order of .18 Rope from Syren so that I could finish rigging the Sheet and Tack lines for the Main Mast. I had to strop three blocks together, following suggestions from Petersson’s Rigging book.
I then attached the lines to eyebolts and rigged them through the blocks and then through the sheaves in the bulwarks.
AND WITH THAT………………….. I am DONE WITH THE RIGGING.
Here are some final photos.
I need to come up with a method of attaching the painted name on the stern. Following Mike’s suggestion, I am searching out a decal that I can print on. I also need to work on flags.
But up next…. Ships Boats.

SHIPS BOATS
I decided to scrap the sliced bread boat frames provided by the kit. Instead, I downloaded a plan for building a jig that allowed me to scratch build the boats.
I copied the jig frames and glued them to some birch plywood and cut them out on the bandsaw. I then assembled the jig and attached cherry veneer strips on the outer edge of the frames and inserted the ends in the bottom slit in the jig frames which held them in place.
I then cut a series of thin holly (very white) strip wood to use as planks. Using CA, I started to glue the stripwood to the cherry lined frames, being careful not to spill any glue onto the cherry strips that would affix them to the frames, since you have to remove the entire assembly from the jig after it is done. I also decided to overlap the holly stripwood to give it a realistic look. This eliminated the need to taper any of the strips.
Here are some photos of my first proto-type. Not bad for my first time, but I discovered some problems. As stated, I used cherry veneer for the frame wood, because it was easier to bend around the sharp corners of the jig frames. However, it was not stiff enough to hold the shape of the boat when I removed it from the jig. The vertical lines of the frames drifted outward quite a bit since the cherry veneer was not strong enough to hold it in place.
So back to the drawing board.  I need to use a stiffer material, and that means that I need to decide whether I can bent it around the jig frames, some of which are sharper than 90 degrees, or whether I can cut them out of solid wood in the proper shape, and still make them thin enough and strong enough to meet my needs

SHIPS BOATS
I decided to scrap the sliced bread boat frames provided by the kit. Instead, I downloaded a plan for building a jig that allowed me to scratch build the boats.
I copied the jig frames and glued them to some birch plywood and cut them out on the bandsaw. I then assembled the jig and attached cherry veneer strips on the outer edge of the frames and inserted the ends in the bottom slit in the jig frames which held them in place.
I then cut a series of thin holly (very white) strip wood to use as planks. Using CA, I started to glue the stripwood to the cherry lined frames, being careful not to spill any glue onto the cherry strips that would affix them to the frames, since you have to remove the entire assembly from the jig after it is done. I also decided to overlap the holly stripwood to give it a realistic look. This eliminated the need to taper any of the strips.
Here are some photos of my first proto-type. Not bad for my first time, but I discovered some problems. As stated, I used cherry veneer for the frame wood, because it was easier to bend around the sharp corners of the jig frames. However, it was not stiff enough to hold the shape of the boat when I removed it from the jig. The vertical lines of the frames drifted outward quite a bit since the cherry veneer was not strong enough to hold it in place.
So back to the drawing board.  I need to use a stiffer material, and that means that I need to decide whether I can bent it around the jig frames, some of which are sharper than 90 degrees, or whether I can cut them out of solid wood in the proper shape, and still make them thin enough and strong enough to meet my needs

Fellow Niagara builder, Mikiek and I were puttzing around the internet looking for rigging plans for our builds and we came across the Niagara Crew Handbook. This 175 page document has some interesting stuff. At the back are some diagrams including a detailed look at the Martingale Rigging, Pinrail Diagram, Deck Arrangement,  and Spar Plan.  Here is the link to the handbook.
 
 https://brigniagara.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/niagara-crew-handbook.pdf
 
I copied and scanned the diagrams if you just want those. 
 
This is of course of the modern ship, and would not be representative of the historic version.
Niagara ship plans.pdf

Hervie,
 
Your modeling skills are second to none, and your Syren looks exquisite, but I have to comment on the technical quality of your build log. Your illustrated pictures and narrative are incredible. Your use of light for the photos, and the back drop are obviously by design.  Heck, I can't get a photo to focus half the time. I know just enough about technology to realize that you have to be spending quite a bit of time in the planning process, and for that, I am thankful. You are giving all of our eyes a real treat. I would enjoy your log even if I did not like building ships. You are obviously bringing some of your professional skills into your retirement - BRAVO!

Tom,
I went through one of those moves and it set me back 8 months. But I did get a great workshop. Good luck.

John
Following up on JCFrankie's suggestion, while you are at the jewelry making supplier, pick up a pair of rounded pliers. I use a dull black steel wire and with the pliers, can twist out a slew of perfectly round eyebolts in quick order. The ends of the pliers are much smaller than the photo suggests.
 
Good luck.

Ken,
For wood working tools, supplies and of course the Exotic Wood Room, I would not know what to do without having Keim's 30 minutes away! And that drive through Ohio Amish Country is first rate. Except for the weather (which has really been bad this spring), we are quite spoiled here in North East Ohio.
 
If you need anything special from Keims, let me know. I am always looking for an excuse to go there.

QUARTER BOAT DAVITS
The punch list is getting small.
I worked on the boat davits over the weekend.  As I have done for most of the build, I discarded the laser cut parts and made the davits out of cherry.  I traced the pattern on to a strip of cherry and cut them out with my band saw. I mounted a small drum sanding bit in the Dremel for initial shaping and used a series of files and sanding sticks to finish them up. It is a long and tedious procedure, but the end product, with sharp edges and perfect finish is well worth the effort.
I applied the yellow and flat black paint with the airbrush and installed the pieces to the ship.  I used card stock blackened with a Sharpie for the metal bands. I am very pleased with the look of the card stock. It is easier to work with than brass, takes the color perfectly, and wraps around the davits very well.

WELCOME ABOARD!  - LADDERS AND SEA STEPS
The crew may now board their ship.
I finished the ladders with a coat of paint and attached them to the deck.  I had to move some rope coils.  It is pretty tight in there. I cut the sea steps out of some boxwood strips I had around. I applied some yellow and flat black paint and glued them to the hull.

QUARTER BOAT DAVITS
The punch list is getting small.
I worked on the boat davits over the weekend.  As I have done for most of the build, I discarded the laser cut parts and made the davits out of cherry.  I traced the pattern on to a strip of cherry and cut them out with my band saw. I mounted a small drum sanding bit in the Dremel for initial shaping and used a series of files and sanding sticks to finish them up. It is a long and tedious procedure, but the end product, with sharp edges and perfect finish is well worth the effort.
I applied the yellow and flat black paint with the airbrush and installed the pieces to the ship.  I used card stock blackened with a Sharpie for the metal bands. I am very pleased with the look of the card stock. It is easier to work with than brass, takes the color perfectly, and wraps around the davits very well.

WELCOME ABOARD!  - LADDERS AND SEA STEPS
The crew may now board their ship.
I finished the ladders with a coat of paint and attached them to the deck.  I had to move some rope coils.  It is pretty tight in there. I cut the sea steps out of some boxwood strips I had around. I applied some yellow and flat black paint and glued them to the hull.

WELCOME ABOARD!  - LADDERS AND SEA STEPS
The crew may now board their ship.
I finished the ladders with a coat of paint and attached them to the deck.  I had to move some rope coils.  It is pretty tight in there. I cut the sea steps out of some boxwood strips I had around. I applied some yellow and flat black paint and glued them to the hull.

That is one of my sheaves installed to accept the tack lines for the main mast which I have yet to rig.  Waiting on my rope from Syren. My August 17th post on page 18 of the log describes the process.

QUARTER BOAT DAVITS
The punch list is getting small.
I worked on the boat davits over the weekend.  As I have done for most of the build, I discarded the laser cut parts and made the davits out of cherry.  I traced the pattern on to a strip of cherry and cut them out with my band saw. I mounted a small drum sanding bit in the Dremel for initial shaping and used a series of files and sanding sticks to finish them up. It is a long and tedious procedure, but the end product, with sharp edges and perfect finish is well worth the effort.
I applied the yellow and flat black paint with the airbrush and installed the pieces to the ship.  I used card stock blackened with a Sharpie for the metal bands. I am very pleased with the look of the card stock. It is easier to work with than brass, takes the color perfectly, and wraps around the davits very well.

WELCOME ABOARD!  - LADDERS AND SEA STEPS
The crew may now board their ship.
I finished the ladders with a coat of paint and attached them to the deck.  I had to move some rope coils.  It is pretty tight in there. I cut the sea steps out of some boxwood strips I had around. I applied some yellow and flat black paint and glued them to the hull.