shipcarpenter

Hello,
today I painted the hull. There are only some small things to repair the next days, where the paint run under the masking tape. But first the paint must entirely dry. 
 

 
 

I i had taken a bit more care with makin the frames it would have made things easier later on ,but i still had it in my head that i would start from scatch again . All i can say at this atage is i have learned quite a bit in a short time and know i will need to learn a lot more before i finish . While waiting for planking to dry i started the bottom deck and as the pic shows it will need some parts replaced to square it . I hope to be able to work with the frames as they are ,with a lot of sanding and a few alterations . The deck frames and keel are the only pear wood i have used and must say it,s a pleasure to work with besides the oak ,plus the tight grain is a lot more realistic looking . The planking and thick stuff are from old stock rather than waste better woods 

Progress!
 
It has been over a month since I last posted, and Im glad to be able to report that Ive been able to make some headway, albeit at a much slower rate now that the post-COVID world is clawing back.  In all Ive been able to get the outer planking and wales completed, gunports framed-in, the interior planking at the lower deck completed and treenailed, the gun deck beams made and simulated caulking done to a point.    At this point Im not terribly convinced that I like the wales so hopefully time (or perhaps someone here) will point out if something is egregiously off.  
 



I opted to rip out and replace my lower deck hanging knees in favor of a more realistic shape and am much happier to have spent the time.   They were really bothering me, and despite the pain-in-the-**** method of shaping them and fixing them after-the-fact I managed to do a reasonable job of it. 

(Left: Old coming out, Center: New template, with old knee removed, Right: Completed replacement)
 
I also chose to give Chadb's method of using the putty for caulking a try as I like the effect he achieved and wanted to try something different.  I did do a pretty extensive mock-up first to figure out the process.  The result does look great, if perhaps somewhat out of scale.

Hi all
 
 Finally that moment has come. 
When I can say the work are completed.
 
 I just recently added last missing piece - main mast.
Thanks  one more time to ChadB for all details for that.
 
And with that, the model is done.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I have already started work on stand and display case. 
So one more small/last build update will coming soon.
 
 
Thanks to anyone for help and good words.
 
 
 
 

Bardzo dziękuję, Bom i gafel. Pozdrawiam Piotrek.

The alert will not have sails, so the running rigging will be managed differently. There was stenga, fixed and movable rigging.
Greetings, Piotrek

Hi all ship mates.
Small update of my build process.
I start accept the idea that there is not much left until the model will be finished
 
 
 

 
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

foremast shrouds:

 

 

 

 

 

 

the stern light. It is not exactly very precise, I did not realize that during the welding the two planes have probably moved, but it is already a lot to be able to do it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Ports-opening and fitting mortisses.
Leaving the finer fairing for later, moved on to the ports.
(Gives a rest to the shoulders and breaks the monotony.)
Using the sheer plan, take measurements for the openings using the build board level as a base line. To minimise confusion and mistakes, mark out the stations on the top of the frames.
Tried various methods including  a proper waterline tool(surface guage)- but found ruler , perspex block spirit level + horizontal eyeballing, the best for me.
The base measure is the lower line of each opening, which is the upper level of lower sill.
The gun port sills are 2.65mm thick, sweep port’s -2.27mm.
The line is parallel to the gundeck level.It also forms the upper level of sweep ports.They are not horizontal.
For example, starting with the central frame “o”-the lower sill top is 11.05mm on my plan.
The line for the bottom of this sill is 2.65 LESS.
With a vertical gap of 14.3mm, the lower level of upper sill is 11..05+14.3, and its upper level is another 2.65mm MORE.
I cut a 1mm deep notch between the makings for seating the sill. (micro saw and file)
I tried the angled sill fitting as per TFFMon some scrap but it was beyond me.
Making these markings and the care required for accuracy emphasised that measuring and making at an earlier stage would have been a mistake. The couple I did, needed filling.
**Amidships, the sill hight extends to the tops of the frames.**
I marked all the gun ports and made them alternating port and starboard.
I made the width of the sill to fit as there is a slight difference in the space between frame, even though it was supposed to be 15.11mm.
The sweep ports have a thinner sill (2.27mm)and as the lower line of the gap is the same, the lower line of the notch, is 11.05-2.27mm- in this “O” example.
(seems complicated on reading, but is simple on doing)
These sweep ports are 4.24mm square- the upper sill is marked as 11.05+4.24 and another line another 2.27mm.
These were similarly notched at 1mm depth.
As discussed some weeks ago, the frame spacing does not allow for a width of 4.24mm. Therefore, the space is formed after the sills are fitted. I.e. Sills made at width of 6.24  and the depth of the notches made to accommodate this.
Then the gap between the frame is widened to the required 4.24mm (Not symetrically- one side or other looks “better”)
More fairing of the new “inserts” and remove the temporary extra spacers.
Looking better I think.

Good morning.

Hello,
 
I have decided to leave the Heads blank. The work on Head go slowly further, images follow.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Regards
 
Alex
 
 

Hi All,
 
Recently someone took my inspiration, so I had some time off from my model 😆😆
Anyway, it came back so here's some update.
 
Standing rigging it's almost completed. Just futtock shrouds are missing.
I guess it's good time to start doing final tension adjustment...
 
All leechline and buntline blocks got their place on the shrouds.
Also, you can see crowfoot on mainstay (interesting piece of rigging, used as a preventer for sails to go under the top)
 
Enjoy the photos!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
At that stage model looks like as below 
 

 

 

 
 
Cheers,
Matt

Thank you Michael! 🍻
 
Hi All,

Another small update.

Ropes, Blocks & Rock'n'Roll   😆

I've started with bowsprit. It's just easier to do it when is not attached due to quite few blocks as you can see... rather than moving whole model and for sure damaging something 

I'm just missing few stoppers for stropped blocks, which were protection for sliding on the bowsprit and can stay at the same time whole time.
 

 
Lower part of main mast also received deadeye which is a part of mizzenmast shroud.
 

 
Double block on the flagstaff, which is part of mizzen sheet.
 

 
All gun tackles and breeching ropes done... so ship is ready for battle 
 

 

 
Cheers,
Matt
 

Thanks, Grant!
 
I glued the six shell racks to the lower support beams.  The placement needs to be precise because two more layers of structure sit on top of the shell racks before the mortar pit floor.  The plans call for the racks to be pinned in place.  I thought this would be too difficult to do precisely so I used a couple of home made jigs to align the shell racks while the epoxy I used dried.  They're not going anywhere!

Thanks!
 
I used temporary spacers to make sure the frames sat properly on the hog or rising wood.  The double frames are constructed so that half the frame sits a little deeper than the rest of the frame.  The frame locks in place.  It can’t move once seated.  I then used epoxy the glue ar the frames in place and faired the inside of the hull.  The spacers above the waterline are glued in place.  The hull is strong enough to remove the transverse support of the jig top for and aft.  Makes it easier to work inside!  

Hi all,
 
the work at the head go on, here the new upper knee, held in place with three glue spots, and upper head rail. The scupper from manger was wrong placed. Is removed und will be new placed abaft the lower knee.
 

 

 
lower knee in process and all parts temporary placed:
 

 

 

 

 
Regards
 
Alex

Thank you all for the likes.
 
A small update. I was working on the yards but ran out of black paint, actually what I had left had quite a few solid pieces in it, so I decided not to use it and order new paint.  Whilst waiting fort the paint I thought I might as well continue work on the masts.  I fitted all the blocks and eyelets on the masts that I could, for the reason the it is much easier when the masts are still in hand. I left out the blocks that a line has to be attached to.  I think it is better to rig them later on, complete with the line and eyelet attached and glue the eyelet in place when times come for its rigging.  I just prepared the holes on the masts for the eyelets.
 
I had forgotten to make the boom saddle on the mizzen mast.
     
 
Blocks rigged to the cap on the main mast.

 
Blocks rigged to the main topmast top.

 
I decided it's time to start fitting the masts in place.  I was dreading to fixing the main mast because of the lantern wire connections, so I started with it so that I would not have the other two in the way since I had to solder and so on.  Since the mast goes through two other decks, apart from the upper deck and the slot in the keel, it was very sturdy when slid in place and did not really need any gluing. 
 
I cut the wires as short as possible, leaving enough length to enable me to solder them and widened the hole in the deck.  Slid the sleeve as far up as I could, slid the mast in, leaving it a few millimetres up and soldered the wires from the mast to the ones  coming out from under the deck.

 
Pushed the mast all the way down and tucked the wire connections in the space between the mast and the deck. 

 
Checked that all is well with the connections and lantern lights up. The sleeve will be pushed down in place and glued and it will cover all the gap and wire connections.  I am not gluing it in place until I have the other two masts in place and all three perfectly lined.

 

 
So basically I have all the wiring ready except for the three lanterns at the stern, but those will come at a much later time because if I fit them now I am sure I will nock them down quite a few times while rigging.
 
I will soon post some more photos when I have the other two masts in place and lined.
 
Robert

I had forgotten some details:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
I also started building small boat:

And here are already finished sails (made of cloth), including  other rigging:
 

@Dowmer
Hello,
thank you very much for your positive comment.
Also for the many LIKES I would like to thank you all very much.
 
Four years have passed again !

I reached a bit of a milestone today.  I finished the planking on the starboard side.  That last row of planks was a bit tricky, but I managed to avoid any gaps.  I gave this side of the hull a once over with 120 grit emery boards.  This is what I've done all my sanding with so far, and what I shape the planks with:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CX9R0E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1  They're flexible, so easily contour to the shape of the hull as I sand.  I cut them into smaller shapes for detail work.  Cheap and effective.  This is a bit of a rough look since I'm waiting to get the hull fully planked, and the stern post attached, before I do any sanding near the stem and keel.  I'm happy with the results so far.  Lets hope the port "display" side of the hull turns out as well or better.  I included a closeup shot of the planking to show the variety of pattern and color of the boxwood I'm using.  I like the variation.
 
Erik
 
 

Mattress.

Inner bulkheads - continuation part one.

I managed to build the grand scale: