Trussben

Currently under consideration....fully rigged.   Planked above the wales with frames exposed below.
 

Yes absolutely 1/4” Scale.

Beautiful

I Like the sound of a “Passaro” designed full POF kit, that really would be awesome!

I Like the sound of a “Passaro” designed full POF kit, that really would be awesome!

Nice progress, I found that when I lined off my hull planking that I needed to do more fairing in certain areas, that’s the big “tell” of if it’s faired correctly.
 
Ben

I Like the sound of a “Passaro” designed full POF kit, that really would be awesome!

Well er about that.....The prospect another huge undertaking is a worry of mine.  BUT, I may be taking the plunge into a Fully-Framed design for my next subject, whatever it will be.  I think there needs to be some more choices for model builders rather than just those POF kits from the east that are emerging.  If anybody wants to build a POF kit they are forced to only buy the stuff that comes out of China.  So I may be the first to develop a full kit done in a style that is different from those being made in China at the moment. I think I can do better.  We shall see how it goes over the next few months. 
 
I can tell you that tests are already underway.  But its still 50-50 which way I will end up going.  Not just a cross section either...but a full hull.  You have seen my other tests into this type of POF development by now.  There are more on the drawing table at the moment.  I think I should do this only because I am not getting any younger, LOL.  So I may as well get this out of my system before I get too old to consider it.
 

 

 
 

After some consideration David and I have decided that the topic of next year's workshop will be on clinker style planking. To me there is nothing lovelier than a clinker planked hull but they are a bit more difficult to successfully execute than the traditional carvel planking. For this workshop the participants will be provided with a laser cut hull section (to be assembled prior to the workshop).  The principles of clinker planking will be taught and the participants will be doing their own planking over the course of the 1 1/2 day workshop. The workshop will take place in Baltimore, MD, probably towards the end of May'2022. We will also be taking a trip to Prebble Hall the day before (or after) in order to view the magnificent Rogers collection. Now that Grant Walker is back a guided tour is always awesome.
 
As with everything else in the past two years all depends on the Covid rates at that time but life goes on and we are making plans. If you are interested in attending this workshop please send a PM or e-mail to me at dvm27@comcast.net so that I can add you to our e-mail group list. Also, please indicate whether a mid-week workshop might work for you. Hotels, workshop space and restaurants are generally easier mid-week than weekends and a trip to the Naval Academy could be incorporated on the second afternoon.
 

 
Alert, clinker hull by Roger Cole
 

Thank You for posting.
 
Today chapter ten was started.  You saw that I had already planked the qdeck along the bulwarks after adding the margin planks.  So before I could plank down the center I had to get the coamings all made.
 
The coamings are build exactly like the others we built.   They are laser cut for you.  Just build them using the 3/64" thick right angle template as before.   Round off the corners......yada....yada....and add the cambered gratings.  Two packages were enough to do these three.
 
But dont glue all three down yet.  Only glue the forward most grating and coaming in first.  This is very important.
 

As you can see above, the first coaming was positioned and then it could be used to help position the capstan partners.   These are also laser cut for you.  But because so much depends on where you placed you beams.....where you placed your lower capstan, etc....
 
I laser cut the three parts for the capstan partners a bit longer on both ends (forward and aft).  This will allow you to adjust to suit you model and get the round opening directly centered over the lower capstan.   Then trim the aft side so it falls on the deck beam nicely.  The aft end of the partners should cover half the beam it sits on.
 
Then the other coamings can be glued in position.  Make sure to center them down the qdeck of course.
 

In that same photo above you can also see the mizzen bitts.   These must be glued to the forward side of the beam before you start planking.  So these were made up next.  They are laser cut but you must finish the top timberhead shape as is usually the case.  There is a hole laser cut through these as well.  They will accept a 1/16 dia. rod.   Use either brass, or even styrene or wood.  It doesnt matter.   You will have to clean out the holes with a 1/16" drill bit first as the laser doesnt cut a perfect right angle.  So I made this hole slightly smaller as a pilot hole.   Drill them again with a 1/16" bitt and insert the rod.  Use the plans to get their length.
 

Above you can see the bitts pretty good.  But you can also see a modeler's convention for adding the slots for the ships wheel rigging.   This is laser cut in two layers 3/64" thick.   The lower layer is glued between the deck beams first.  It has a laser etched reference for the second final layer.  Just glue it on top like in the photo.  We will plank around this.
 
Finally the planking can commence down the center of the qdeck.   Use your template as a guide like when you planked the fcastle.
 
This will complete the planking or most of it.  We still have the gangways to do but that will be done much later.  You can see I also test fit the upper capstan.  I still have to paint it red and add the metal band.   But its all coming together.   That will be done next along with the pawls....and also the mizzen mast coat.  
 


 

 
With each update she is getting less naked.  Its is starting to fill out nicely with details.  Any questions. On the workbench…

Beautiful

Beautiful

When using a well sharpened chisel, to prevent breakout on the far side of the cut, you should a) cut thin slices off and b) use a hardwood block underneath to support the part. Your photos show that you are getting the hang of things!

Hallo photos. 

Thanks for your comments, I am preparing the double rising coasts and I place them in a provisional way to adapt and divert them to the openings of the gunner, it will be a very long and difficult job, we hope for a good result. A greeting

I hope I live long enough to see your model finished, Albert!

Hello after pausing the construction of the HMS ANSON 64-gun vessel, I open the shipyard for the construction of the first-class vessel HMS VICTORY 1765 following the drawings of the Greenwich NMM in 1/48 scale. A greeting

Some progress on the planking. I almost finished one quadrant of the ship: 
 

 

 

 

 
Most of the planks were placed in this crude jig: A little dipping in pure alcohol and then placed between the nails - 
 

 
Four planks can fit nicely, while drying in shape. When released, they rebound a little bit, but are more willing to comply to the difficult shape of that hull.
 
Now, I just have to do the other side, with more than 24 planks....
 

 
A first pass of "scraper" and some rough sanding took place. I am still debating if I will paint the hull (anti-worms white) or copper plate it. I would love to do the copper plating but need to learn about that process. Non-covered section of the hull may require a second planking made with 0.4 mm thick maple planks, provided in the kit. 
 
I still have plenty of time to think about it....
 
Yves

SESSION #5
 
This is the richest session and heaviest box: 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I am planning to follow the sessions independently. Every time I start a new session, I will describe the contents of the box, in greater details.
 
Yves

Breaking away from the CAF instructions (which are recommending planking the lower hull first) I went ahead and worked on the Wales. After carefully measuring and getting the right positioning of these from pictures and the blueprint, I went ahead and started gluing the thick and stiff strips of cherry wood, provided in the kit. These are 8.5 mm wide by 3 mm thick and quite a challenge to bend. Some warm water allowed me to follow the natural curve of the hull: 
 

 
The wales are glued with slow curing two components resin epoxy. I have to wait about 6 to 8 hours for each strip and there are nine strips total. Maybe I need to be less generous on the amount of glue....
 

 
Wales are glued staggered, in order to define a nice and regular curve, along the hull.
 

 
Three strips are about 25 mm wide, which is one mm short of what the blueprint is indicating. However, following the Anatomy of the Ship book, I will be approaching the wales on a more gradual basis, instead of the way it is done in the kit.
 
In the kit, we have 3 mm thick (wales) and we then plank the upper hull with 0.4 mm maple strips. That creates a brutal transition which is contradictory to what the reference book is showing. Instead, I will use 3 mm for the wales, 1.5 mm transition strip (not provided in the kit) and the 0.4 mm upper hull planking.
 

 
Still plenty of sanding to be done....
 
Another aspect of the upper hull that needs to be addressed, is the upper deck gun ports: 
 

 
These present a large opening which is not right and will create a void, when the external planking is installed. Using 1.5 x 1.5 mm strip (not provided in the kit), I am filling up the gap created between the outer shells and the futtocks. The lower gun deck, does not need that treatment since the gun port lids are supposed to be inserted there. When dry, everything is sanded smoothly and the upper hull planking could be technically started at that point. We will not do that quite yet....
 

 
An overall view of the starboard side with the wale installed. To accommodate the sharp curve at the bow, I took my 8.5 x 3 mm cherry strips and split them in two, on the length of the bow curve. After a soaking in alcohol, the smaller strips created by the cut are easier to bend and less likely to break. At the bow, you can actually see 6 small strips.
 
 
About four coats of Model Shipways acrylic black paint to get a sense of the wale: 
 

 
Still plenty of sanding to be done and another four coats to make it look nice.
 
Another point to not forget, is the painting of the gun ports and some wood putty in places where they may be small imperfections in the smoothness of the hull. I am trying to finish one side before moving to the port side of the hull. I hate repetitive tasks.... when building a 74 guns ship, what can you expect?
 

 
Yves

So working on the Transom details now, it was painted cerulean blue, the ports red and  the timber heads flat black.
The laser etched transom moldings were cleaned of char and installed and then I installed the Counter moldings and the Frieze between them and started getting the lower counter ready  for its frieze.

Nice to see you back at the Winnie Rusty.

Send me a PM if interested.

Thanks Chuck, Its all been fun but now it's onto more fun!
 
I shaped and added the frieze to the checks.
 

 

 
I then started shaping the hair brackets. There are three layers and I started with the center one. I removed the char and rounded the edges. Next I have to shape it to fit snug against the hull and stem. It's hard to see in this picture but I've got a good bit of adjusting to do.
 

 
Once the inner piece is shaped to fit the two outer pieces will be glued on. There is an etched line in the top piece that will hopefully give me the correct angle for when attaching the hair brackets. Lots of different angles and planes. Gulp. Here I go!