Ray1981

INDEX OF PLANS
 

 
Sheet 1: Overview of ship
 

 
Sheet 2: Masts and Yards
 

 
Sheet 3: Decorations
 
   
 
Sheets 4, 5, 6, 7: General construction details
 

 
Sheet 8: Longitudinal and Cross section (for scratch builders) 
 
 
 
Sheets 9, 10: Deck furniture
 
 
 
Sheets 11, 12: Standing rigging
 
  
 
Sheets 13, 14, 15: Running rigging
 

 
Sheet 16: Mast and yard details
 

 
Sheet 17: Ships plan

OVERVIEW AND GENERAL KIT IMPRESSIONS
 

 
The box is really large and heavy, and arrives absolutely packed. Every bit of spare space is taken up by ... peanut foam. I filled up a plastic bag full of these annoying things and was able to get at the kit. 
 
First, the bad: 
 

 
The instructions are not very good (to say the least). For a kit of this complexity, the rather thin instruction booklet only contains THREE pages of instructions, of which the first page is taken up by the history of the ship, and some congratulatory notes. This shot is of the second page, and contains nothing that no experienced modeller wouldn't know. OTOH the plans (see next post) are excellent, however many diagrams in the plans could have been printed on smaller pieces of paper and bound in a booklet instead. As it is, all 17 sheets of plans are too large, unwieldy, and hard to find - which is why I took the trouble of making an index for myself (and for others who may follow). 
 

 
The ships boat is a cast resin item. Whilst it is well cast, other kit manufacturers are offering plank-on-frame boats. Oh yes, only one boat? For a first rate ship? 
 

 
Some of the castings are not very good. Look at how chunky this window is. This will have to go into the bin - I can only hope my skills are up to making a replacement from scratch. 
 

 
Likewise, the ship's lantern is a clumsy looking affair. 
 

 
These are meant to be gunport hinges. 
 

 
And these are meant to be gun carriages! 
 

 
The flags are printed on cloth. I am a little indifferent to the quality of the printing. 
 

 
However, the wood is of decent quality. On some older RW kits, the masts are pre-tapered. On this brand new RW kit, fresh from Italy, the masts are not. No matter, I have a lathe!
 

 
The bulkheads are unbelievably thick and sturdy - 10mm thick! 
 

 
Some other castings, like the figurehead, are excellent. 
 

 
And so are the castings for the stern decorations. 
 

 
... and the side decorations. 
 

 
The blocks are probably the best I have ever seen included in a model kit. Unfortunately, they are all mixed up in a bag. I will have to carefully sort them and put them away. 

Thanks for visiting my build log. The first few posts will be updated as I go along
 
From Wikipedia:
 

 

 
HMS Prince was rebuilt by Robert Lee at Chatham Dockyard in 1692, and renamed at the same time as HMS Royal William. During the War of the Grand Alliance the ship saw action at the Battle of Barfleur of 19 May 1692. The Prince belonged to the red squadron and carried the flag of Rear Admiral of the Red Sir Cloudesley Shovell. She was the first ship to break the French line during the battle.
 
Later she was rebuilt for a second time by John Naish at Portsmouth Dockyard from 1714, relaunching on 3 September 1719. She was laid up after her re-launch and saw no service at all until she was reduced to an 84-gun Second rate ship in 1756. One year later, she was part of an unsuccessful expedition against Rochefort led by Admiral Sir Edward Hawke. Her squadron, under Vice-Admiral Charles Knowles, attacked the Île-d'Aix and forced her garrison to surrender. In 1758 she participated in Boscawen's and Wolfe's attack on the French Fortress of Louisbourg (Nova Scotia) and an indecisive skirmish with a French squadron. The following year the Royal William returned to Canada under the command of Captain Hugh Pigot to join the attack on Quebec. After the Battle of the Plains of Abraham and the capture of Quebec she sailed back to England with the body of General Wolfe. In 1760 the Royal William was Boscawen's flagship when he took command of the fleet in Quiberon Bay. However, after a severe gale he was forced to return and shift his flag to the Namur. During the expedition against Belle Île of 1761 she was detached with several other ships to cruise off Brest and prevent a French counter-attack from there.
 
The Seven Years' War seems to be the last time that the Royal William played an active role. She was broken up in 1813.
 
 
LINKS TO RESOURCES
 
Euromodel website
- Royal William Product Page
- Interpretive Information by PiratePete
- Royal William Resource Information
 
Build logs on MSW
- Royal William by VinceP (Euromodel)
- Royal William by Brian C (Euromodel)
- Royal William by Denis Pink (Euromodel) 
- Royal William by Ersin Derebek (scratch) 
- Royal William by Kay (scratch) 
- Royal William by Marktiedens
- Royal William by ken3335
 
Other resources
- USNA model of Royal William
- Royal William by Victor Yankovitch, also alternative source.

Indeed Ulises this thread I've read and it really explains very clear what dry brushing is. Just by reading it you should be able to make a decent attempt, at least I could. But good to mention I'm a rookie in scale modeling

Its all a bit experimenting. I bought some styrene plate, cut a piece and scribed some plating. Than I started to test to see what works best for me. This is an easy and cheap way to find out what works without distroying your work
 
See an example below.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12912-weathering-a-copper-hull/
 
Grtz
 
Ray

Hi Folks
 
I've been trying some things regarding this weathering of a copper hull. I've done 3 tests.
 
1) Using the Humbrol Chrome Oxide with a gloss verniz. The result is vissible on th etop right of the test plate I used. As you can see this is a dissaster.
 
2) I used the Humbrol Chrome Oxide with Decal soft from Revell so you get a wash effect. The procedure works better but it is not the right color (Chrome has a different color while oxidized as Copper so makes sense). Result is vissible on the right bottom side.
 
3) I took a turquoise enamel paint and applied the dry brush technique. This result is visible on the left side.
 
I think I will go for option 3 even though I really would like to use these powders as I have seen nice results but for this purpose I think it doesnt work. The turquoise has a much more realistic color for copper oxide.
 

 
But if anybody has other opinions or ideas feel free to give them.
 
Grtz Ray

Mark - feel your pain but commend the redo, although the original really does look good.  Licorne is really looking rather grand.

Hang in there, brother. The average Joe won't know you re-did the rudder, but deep in your soul, you'll know, even five years from now.

Well done Mark, the hard part is over - making the decision to re-do!

I agree that sometimes we're gluttons for punishment.  And actually I do like knowing when I've messed up as it points out where my skills/attention/etc need improving.   
 
Anyway, destruction went well.  Just holes in the planking to fill.  It seems that nothing really sticks to Wipe-on-Poly and it cleaned up nicely.  I've sanded those areas down to bare wood, made a new cutting template and will be proceeding (and remembering to take photos) on the morrow.  And I'll get the rudder coat on this time. 

Mark,
 
You don't have to do the same as me.
Starting all over again every time !
But I'm happy that I'am not alone in this       
 
Sjors

Hi Mark.
 
I really don't know what to say....apart from....Noooooooooo! A lesson learned, is a lesson learned, however; so, I guess as harsh as it sounds, you have to be happy with it.
 
We're all here to support, watch and admire.
 
Cheers and all the best!
 
Patrick

Thanks for the likes and comments.
 
 
That's what I had on the plans for cutting the rudder...  HIndsight...it's wrong.  Also, I used the wrong size pintle and cudgeon material. I'm adding this to my "lessons learned".    I take another look and see if I can fix it although without destroying the stern planking, I'm not sure.

Thanks for the likes, the comments, and the ideas.
 
Carl, I think you might be onto something. I never thought about coming in from the top.  I'll take another look this week and see.  
 
Pat, I seem to recall that build also... too many years ago,.. <sigh>  Oh yes, I'm logging the lessons.
 
 
Here's the rudder in it's not quite or maybe it is, final form.  (Rudder coat notwithstanding).  I've added the strop and the chains.   Now that's back in it's jig, I'm going to attend to several things...  the rudder coat install from the top, the carvings <takes a deep breath>, the quarter galleries, and a bit if finishing up the sanding on the inside of the hull.
 
And the pictures.  I'm pretty happy with it even with some issues that the macro brings up..  
 

 

 

Hmmm... I think we all were that at one time or another.
 
Saludos from Mexico

Indeed Ulises this thread I've read and it really explains very clear what dry brushing is. Just by reading it you should be able to make a decent attempt, at least I could. But good to mention I'm a rookie in scale modeling

Again a update guys I hope its not to boring for the people who follow this log. It was agian a bussy day.
 
I was able to finsih the 28 32-pounders for the lower gun deck.
 

 
I started with painting the hull as well, to get the color I liked I had to mix a little bit I took Revell nr15 and 16 and mixed them on a ratio of 7:4 to get the yellow sand color.
 

 
I tried to make the gun rigging as well with some blocks and thread. This was quite difficult and time consuming. I think I will use these block only on some of the 18-pounders on the 2nd deck and on the 16 8-pounders on the main deck
 

 

Post No. 12 in this thread explains what dry brushing is.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3962-how-to-make-plastic-look-like-wood

Again a update guys I hope its not to boring for the people who follow this log. It was agian a bussy day.
 
I was able to finsih the 28 32-pounders for the lower gun deck.
 

 
I started with painting the hull as well, to get the color I liked I had to mix a little bit I took Revell nr15 and 16 and mixed them on a ratio of 7:4 to get the yellow sand color.
 

 
I tried to make the gun rigging as well with some blocks and thread. This was quite difficult and time consuming. I think I will use these block only on some of the 18-pounders on the 2nd deck and on the 16 8-pounders on the main deck
 

 

Again a update guys I hope its not to boring for the people who follow this log. It was agian a bussy day.
 
I was able to finsih the 28 32-pounders for the lower gun deck.
 

 
I started with painting the hull as well, to get the color I liked I had to mix a little bit I took Revell nr15 and 16 and mixed them on a ratio of 7:4 to get the yellow sand color.
 

 
I tried to make the gun rigging as well with some blocks and thread. This was quite difficult and time consuming. I think I will use these block only on some of the 18-pounders on the 2nd deck and on the 16 8-pounders on the main deck
 

 

Thanks Mark, I hope you were talking about the first picture because the second picture is how the kit came. Only the lower gun deck doesnt have any planking so I tried to made them for myself. But I was affraid I would destroy the whole deck so I stopped after a couple of planks.

I used on my bounty a wash from simple paint on water base.
 
I painted the deck with a light sanndy brown color and covered that witha gloss finish so it is smooth to let the wash flow. when it is dry you could use a dark brown paint (water paint like they use for children on school). I used random strokes and had all over the place uneven paint. Whe it was dry I took a cloth and made it a bit wet and startedto brush the paint with the wet cloth totake of some paint. When I got what I like i let it dry and appkied a flat finish.
 
This method is safe because you covered you base color the sand brown with a finish if you dont like your wash you can clean it with a wet clothand do it over again. I dont have pictures here but I thought I posted a video of this somewhere.
 
Dry brushing would be also a good topic to search on btw.
 
I hope this helps you a bit
 
Gryz Ray

Its all a bit experimenting. I bought some styrene plate, cut a piece and scribed some plating. Than I started to test to see what works best for me. This is an easy and cheap way to find out what works without distroying your work
 
See an example below.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12912-weathering-a-copper-hull/
 
Grtz
 
Ray

Again a update guys I hope its not to boring for the people who follow this log. It was agian a bussy day.
 
I was able to finsih the 28 32-pounders for the lower gun deck.
 

 
I started with painting the hull as well, to get the color I liked I had to mix a little bit I took Revell nr15 and 16 and mixed them on a ratio of 7:4 to get the yellow sand color.
 

 
I tried to make the gun rigging as well with some blocks and thread. This was quite difficult and time consuming. I think I will use these block only on some of the 18-pounders on the 2nd deck and on the 16 8-pounders on the main deck
 

 

Thanks! I will try that method and we'll see how it turns out.
 
I've come across other techniques, all of which look interesting too. I'll post my results and let you know.
 
Cheers!,
Pete