Telp
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Telp got a reaction from Canute in What lays first?
Thanks Wayne, pretty intricate for sure. In the model sense I did wonder if hatches ect had a grounding first on a deck plate rather than on the actual planks to give stability. Great drawings.
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Telp got a reaction from Canute in Deck planking plan feedback please
Thanks guys and thanks Uilses for the primer. ;-)
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Telp got a reaction from Canute in Deck planking plan feedback please
Hi all
I have spent a couple of days messing with deck planking plans for my brig supply. I decided to look at the primer tutorial in here and went for the 13524 plan at planks 100mm, I have attached my drawing plan and would also like to ask if deck plans are done from the tip of the bow to the back of the stern as this ship has three decks at different heights, or can each deck be planned individually. Will be a while before my deck is laid but I can use any spare time to prepare wood ect. Would a larger plank size be better, I want a staggered deck and will be caulking using grey pencil with a light oak varnish. Thank you.
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Telp got a reaction from donfarr in Deck planking plan feedback please
Hi all
I have spent a couple of days messing with deck planking plans for my brig supply. I decided to look at the primer tutorial in here and went for the 13524 plan at planks 100mm, I have attached my drawing plan and would also like to ask if deck plans are done from the tip of the bow to the back of the stern as this ship has three decks at different heights, or can each deck be planned individually. Will be a while before my deck is laid but I can use any spare time to prepare wood ect. Would a larger plank size be better, I want a staggered deck and will be caulking using grey pencil with a light oak varnish. Thank you.
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Telp got a reaction from Canute in Beginning to Do Some Seizing
There is a great tutorial on youtube which shows how to seize a block which creates loops either side so they can be wrapped to a mast and pulled tight. I got the hang of it but with my lack of knowledge on doing it correctly I was using pre waxed cottons so when I pulled the loops in the wax was pulling as well, even though it did the job close up the rigging was not very nice. The looping system is great but i'd love to see some example in here on how people do their blocks ect because some of them are superb looking. Great questions indeed.
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Telp got a reaction from Elijah in HM Brig Supply by Telp - Caldercraft - 1:64
Thanks frank and Ron
I have been following some of the pictures from your build frank and thank heavens they are there as I'd never have worked out some of the things from the prints, I have only just worked out the prints are a full size copy of the ship itself. I will take on board what you both have said and continue with making sure the bulkheads and other things are as good as possible before moving on.
Many thanks
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Telp got a reaction from Sjors in HM Brig Supply by Telp - Caldercraft - 1:64
Thanks Jason, I think I know what you mean, I've taken a couple of closer side on pics as I don't think the others were clear with the symmetry. I have rounded the bow blocks so they run flush with the wood either side of the main bow fitting which I have not put on yet.
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Telp got a reaction from Sjors in HM Brig Supply by Telp - Caldercraft - 1:64
Thanks frank and Ron
I have been following some of the pictures from your build frank and thank heavens they are there as I'd never have worked out some of the things from the prints, I have only just worked out the prints are a full size copy of the ship itself. I will take on board what you both have said and continue with making sure the bulkheads and other things are as good as possible before moving on.
Many thanks
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Telp got a reaction from riverboat in HM Brig Supply by Telp - Caldercraft - 1:64
After a couple of days gently getting the deck to sit I have now glued down the bow and stern deck sections and will hopefully glue down the mid section before having a weekend in London then spending as long as it takes to do all the fairing required to begin the first planking. Thankfully the beauty of having as much time as I want is teaching me to check and double check everything. Have a good weekend all.
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Telp got a reaction from mtaylor in Beginning to Do Some Seizing
There is a great tutorial on youtube which shows how to seize a block which creates loops either side so they can be wrapped to a mast and pulled tight. I got the hang of it but with my lack of knowledge on doing it correctly I was using pre waxed cottons so when I pulled the loops in the wax was pulling as well, even though it did the job close up the rigging was not very nice. The looping system is great but i'd love to see some example in here on how people do their blocks ect because some of them are superb looking. Great questions indeed.
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Telp got a reaction from Mark Pearse in slow drying time - Humbrol enamel
Although many people use enamel paints due to their consistency you can get as good a finish using acrylics and if you can spray the acrylics then more the better. I have painted aircraft (not models) in acrylics and the finish when built up gently can be superb. When painting anything always put some of the paint you are going to use on a spare piece so that you can monitor the drying ect outside of the main work. Although you say tthe finish was applied to a fully dried surface you have to remember that deep within the paint it may still not be fully cured, many paints can still react with an undercoat and if that undercoat is not fully dry any rubbing down can force it to re react itself.
Even a simple thing like stirring can be a big issue, never stir paint round and round, always stir it round and upwards to bring the pigments all together and always turn your paint tins over at least once a week to prevent them forming too much oil as this never gets stirred in correctly when people give the paint a quick stir. One other thing, if you store paints in rooms with low temperatures you will after a while kill the pigments, I always keep mine in a little box in a room somewhere. Hope it all sorts, if not, try rubbing the finish with a gentle green dish scour pad, that will help it dry some and get some air into it although you may need to overcoat with a thin finish.
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Telp got a reaction from Canute in slow drying time - Humbrol enamel
Although many people use enamel paints due to their consistency you can get as good a finish using acrylics and if you can spray the acrylics then more the better. I have painted aircraft (not models) in acrylics and the finish when built up gently can be superb. When painting anything always put some of the paint you are going to use on a spare piece so that you can monitor the drying ect outside of the main work. Although you say tthe finish was applied to a fully dried surface you have to remember that deep within the paint it may still not be fully cured, many paints can still react with an undercoat and if that undercoat is not fully dry any rubbing down can force it to re react itself.
Even a simple thing like stirring can be a big issue, never stir paint round and round, always stir it round and upwards to bring the pigments all together and always turn your paint tins over at least once a week to prevent them forming too much oil as this never gets stirred in correctly when people give the paint a quick stir. One other thing, if you store paints in rooms with low temperatures you will after a while kill the pigments, I always keep mine in a little box in a room somewhere. Hope it all sorts, if not, try rubbing the finish with a gentle green dish scour pad, that will help it dry some and get some air into it although you may need to overcoat with a thin finish.
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Telp got a reaction from mtaylor in slow drying time - Humbrol enamel
Although many people use enamel paints due to their consistency you can get as good a finish using acrylics and if you can spray the acrylics then more the better. I have painted aircraft (not models) in acrylics and the finish when built up gently can be superb. When painting anything always put some of the paint you are going to use on a spare piece so that you can monitor the drying ect outside of the main work. Although you say tthe finish was applied to a fully dried surface you have to remember that deep within the paint it may still not be fully cured, many paints can still react with an undercoat and if that undercoat is not fully dry any rubbing down can force it to re react itself.
Even a simple thing like stirring can be a big issue, never stir paint round and round, always stir it round and upwards to bring the pigments all together and always turn your paint tins over at least once a week to prevent them forming too much oil as this never gets stirred in correctly when people give the paint a quick stir. One other thing, if you store paints in rooms with low temperatures you will after a while kill the pigments, I always keep mine in a little box in a room somewhere. Hope it all sorts, if not, try rubbing the finish with a gentle green dish scour pad, that will help it dry some and get some air into it although you may need to overcoat with a thin finish.
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Telp got a reaction from WackoWolf in Deck planking plan feedback please
Hi all
I have spent a couple of days messing with deck planking plans for my brig supply. I decided to look at the primer tutorial in here and went for the 13524 plan at planks 100mm, I have attached my drawing plan and would also like to ask if deck plans are done from the tip of the bow to the back of the stern as this ship has three decks at different heights, or can each deck be planned individually. Will be a while before my deck is laid but I can use any spare time to prepare wood ect. Would a larger plank size be better, I want a staggered deck and will be caulking using grey pencil with a light oak varnish. Thank you.
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Telp got a reaction from WackoWolf in Deck planking plan feedback please
Thanks guys and thanks Uilses for the primer. ;-)
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Telp got a reaction from mtaylor in Deck planking plan feedback please
Thanks guys and thanks Uilses for the primer. ;-)
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Telp got a reaction from Ulises Victoria in Deck planking plan feedback please
Hi all
I have spent a couple of days messing with deck planking plans for my brig supply. I decided to look at the primer tutorial in here and went for the 13524 plan at planks 100mm, I have attached my drawing plan and would also like to ask if deck plans are done from the tip of the bow to the back of the stern as this ship has three decks at different heights, or can each deck be planned individually. Will be a while before my deck is laid but I can use any spare time to prepare wood ect. Would a larger plank size be better, I want a staggered deck and will be caulking using grey pencil with a light oak varnish. Thank you.
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Telp got a reaction from markjay in Deck planking plan feedback please
Hi all
I have spent a couple of days messing with deck planking plans for my brig supply. I decided to look at the primer tutorial in here and went for the 13524 plan at planks 100mm, I have attached my drawing plan and would also like to ask if deck plans are done from the tip of the bow to the back of the stern as this ship has three decks at different heights, or can each deck be planned individually. Will be a while before my deck is laid but I can use any spare time to prepare wood ect. Would a larger plank size be better, I want a staggered deck and will be caulking using grey pencil with a light oak varnish. Thank you.
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Telp got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Deck planking plan feedback please
Hi all
I have spent a couple of days messing with deck planking plans for my brig supply. I decided to look at the primer tutorial in here and went for the 13524 plan at planks 100mm, I have attached my drawing plan and would also like to ask if deck plans are done from the tip of the bow to the back of the stern as this ship has three decks at different heights, or can each deck be planned individually. Will be a while before my deck is laid but I can use any spare time to prepare wood ect. Would a larger plank size be better, I want a staggered deck and will be caulking using grey pencil with a light oak varnish. Thank you.
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Telp got a reaction from GLakie in Deck planking plan feedback please
Hi all
I have spent a couple of days messing with deck planking plans for my brig supply. I decided to look at the primer tutorial in here and went for the 13524 plan at planks 100mm, I have attached my drawing plan and would also like to ask if deck plans are done from the tip of the bow to the back of the stern as this ship has three decks at different heights, or can each deck be planned individually. Will be a while before my deck is laid but I can use any spare time to prepare wood ect. Would a larger plank size be better, I want a staggered deck and will be caulking using grey pencil with a light oak varnish. Thank you.
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Telp got a reaction from mtaylor in Deck planking plan feedback please
Hi all
I have spent a couple of days messing with deck planking plans for my brig supply. I decided to look at the primer tutorial in here and went for the 13524 plan at planks 100mm, I have attached my drawing plan and would also like to ask if deck plans are done from the tip of the bow to the back of the stern as this ship has three decks at different heights, or can each deck be planned individually. Will be a while before my deck is laid but I can use any spare time to prepare wood ect. Would a larger plank size be better, I want a staggered deck and will be caulking using grey pencil with a light oak varnish. Thank you.
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Telp got a reaction from dgbot in Interesting website - naval war-gaming site with historical data
Use http://www.threedecks.org the original link is being redirected back to this site, it needed the whole address protocol.
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Telp got a reaction from Canute in Interesting website - naval war-gaming site with historical data
Use http://www.threedecks.org the original link is being redirected back to this site, it needed the whole address protocol.
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Telp got a reaction from slow2cool in Interesting website - naval war-gaming site with historical data
Use http://www.threedecks.org the original link is being redirected back to this site, it needed the whole address protocol.
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Telp reacted to allanyed in What lays first?
Hi Telp
Yes the coamings and head ledges rested on the beams and carlings, but some other deck furniture such as capstans and ship's wheel pedestals the planking ran beneath them.
Allan
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