Haliburton

Hi Haliburton,
 
Sorry but I don't have any pics. So far I've made the gratings,gun carriages,pump bodies and milled mast/yard sheave slots for my Cheerful build. I intend to make all my own blocks and will fit sheaves in all but the smallest. I also made my mast coat using the mill. I've really enjoyed doing this plus it saves one money. My next buy (when I can afford it) will be a lathe. I could kick myself for selling my Unimat SL back in the 80's when I stopped modelling.
 
Regards,
 
Dave 

I own a 12in Dewalt Planer.  I bought it to mill 3/16 rib stock and 5/32in planking for wood canvas canoes from rough cut Northern White Cedar.  The planer has worked beautifully.
 
I have also used it to mill rough cut pear wood into finished billets for ship models. Again, the planer worked fine.
 
 For both of these projects I also used a  10 in  table saw and a small but well built jointer.  To do its job, the planer needs one surface of the board to be flat and that requires a table saw and/or jointer.  Feeding a twisted board into a planer will either cause the planer to jam or if the planer is powerful enough will result in a twisted planed board.
 
For me, an enjoyable part of modeling is producing my own milled lumber and I have the space for the two essential tools, a large table saw and a jointer as well as a nice to have planer.  Usefulness of a planer without the other two tools is limited.
 
Roger

Hi Dave, thanks for advice, do you have any examples of things you've made with it that you can share?   Scott

Prototyping the sweeps for the barge.....
 
One down and nine more to go.   Each sweep is made from four pieces.  Each piece is shaped accordingly.  It is either turned and rounded off or tapered and steamed bent.   I will of course elaborate more in the instructions.  But they seem to go together well enough and are pretty straight forward.
 

Hi Dave, thanks for advice, do you have any examples of things you've made with it that you can share?   Scott

I'll give you my thoughts... I started buying tools while building kits.  
 
The planer is questionable.  I had one and got rid of it as it was too big and powerful for what we do.  And not that accurate.  I use a drum sander from MicroMark but have been giving thought to their planer as it's more in keeping with the size of wood and the accuracy.
 
As for the mill... that's the last thing I'd buy after a small table saw (Jim Saw, MM or Proxxon saw) and a hobby lathe and maybe a scroll saw.  I'm just not using the mill that much but then, I'm not a machinist.  It's useful for a lot of things but I've just not used it that much.  If the price is right, grab it and see what you can do with it.  Be advised that accessories can eat up a lot of cash (same for a lathe).

Hi there Haliburton,you should definitely buy the MF 70 mill. I bought one earlier this year and wouldn't be without it. There are only 2 extra accessories made for this tool AFAIK,a rotary table #24264 and a machinists vice #24260 and they're not very expensive. 
 
Dave  

Thanks Mark, I have the Jim Saw and scroll saw and lathe, so I'm pretty well equipped. Sounds like between them the micro mill has the greatest potential of being used, but even so, it's use might be limited. 

Thanks Mark, I have the Jim Saw and scroll saw and lathe, so I'm pretty well equipped. Sounds like between them the micro mill has the greatest potential of being used, but even so, it's use might be limited. 

I have a friend looking to get rid of his dewalt planer (model 724) and proxxon micro mill (mf70).  When I say 'get rid of' I mean sell!  I'm thinking about buying them with a view that they may come in handy for some serious scratch building down the road, but I'm wondering if I would/will ever get to the point where these tools would be worth it. Any thoughts?
Scott

Thanks Mark, I have the Jim Saw and scroll saw and lathe, so I'm pretty well equipped. Sounds like between them the micro mill has the greatest potential of being used, but even so, it's use might be limited. 

Go to the home page and look under the sponsors column on the right hand side, the third button down is John's Proxxon store link.  Scott

I am glad you found them....
 
The flags and ensigns are now complete.   The dowels were tapered and painted red.   Then I added the trucks.   The flags are made just like on Cheerful.  They are printed on tissue paper and shaped on the staff.  The ensigns are the English flag from 1710 and Queen Anne's royal standard from the same time period. Next up will be the oars.
 

 

 
Chuck

Go to the home page and look under the sponsors column on the right hand side, the third button down is John's Proxxon store link.  Scott

The rudder ...the tiller and the thole pins are now complted.
 
The thole pins are made in two pieces as shown below.
 

This looks simple but these pieces are very small.  They were painted red after being glued into position.
 
The rudder is not a working rudder.  I mean its not done with working gudgeons/pintels etc.   I always find it works its way loose that way and I often pull it off and the parts are damaged.   So for simplicity the kit is designed with a non-working hinge that is simulated and the rudder doesnt work.  It is glued and fixed in position but you would never know.  Before starting on the pintles and gudgeons I cleaned up the rudder and tapered it towards the bottom of the rudder blade.  You can see the profile on the bottom of step 1.
 
This was possible because the rudder and stern post was designed with small tabs initially.  The simulated laserboard straps are simply glued onto the rudder and each side of the stern post.  Then the rudder is glued into position...
 
This drawing may help explain...

 
The tiller was turned from a 1/16" x 1/16" strip in my dremel rotary tool.

And finally the images of the model once the work was complete.  I am quite happy with how well the set up simulates pintels and gudgeons.  It made the process of installing the rudder easier since the flying transom makes it tough to work in such a confined location.  
 




 

It is time to pressure that little dream I have had since my high school years….to build Wooden Ships!
 
After 22 years in the Air Force, marriage and then the transitioning back into civilian life one of my goal was to return to model building.  I started backing into plastic kits since that was what I had built mostly in my early years. I focused on Armor and some Aircraft here and there but always in the back of my mind was that little dream of wooden ships….and then in August (2017) my wife and I took trip to Boston.  As most of you have undoubtedly guessed we paid a visit to the USS Constitution and that little dream is now becoming a reality.  With the support of my wife I decided to move from the world of plastic kits (but not totally away) and begin the long and hopefully enjoyable journey into the world of tall ships and wooden hulls. With the first steps beginning here. 
 
But first things first….lots of reading and lots of questions and then some more reading and research.  My hope is to select my first subject and begin the framing process by the end of year (2017). This will be the only deadline I plan to impose upon myself as the learning of a new skill set will require a significant time investment. So for now it’s over to the “Database of Articles and Downloads” and “For Beginners -- A Cautionary Tale” to start my reading. Lastly I would like to say Thank You in advance to everyone for the sound advice, honest answers and constructive criticisms that I hope receive….so…Thank You.
I’m looking forward to this journey into the world of tall and elegant ships.    
 
Best Regards
Eric Rains
Vancouver, Wa, USA    

Maori War Canoe will be carved from Basswood, have not picked which fantail and bow carvings to use, many to pick from see picks.
Having no carving experience will start on the hull first. Intricate carvings for fantail and bow will be pear or Sculpy. Read Dan Vads tuturioral on Sculpy and may go that route since after baking it appears as sturdy as wood??

Progressing with carved details....
 

 

 

 

'Long time ago', I promised to show the finished model of my Lady Nelson. Well, finally, here she is!

Hi Jim -
There are pluses and minuses to her large size.  Much more work constructing her...but isn't that our hobby?  ( I discovered that I gain more pleasure from BUILDING model ships than I do from OWNING them once they are finished)  And - the finished Confederacy model demands less space than the finished Syren.  They are about the same length, but the Admiralty style Confederacy is not as wide as the spars on Syren, and with no masts or rigging, Confederacy will fit on a shelf.  In my case she will go on a window seat.
 
Thanks to all for the "likes" on my last post.  Always nice to get.  Also nice to get was the package that came in today's mail from Model Expo with the parts that were missing from the kit.  It restores my faith in them and in John Garcia especially.  The missing parts were three "bundles" of strip wood of various dimensions.  The replacements arrived with labels on each bundle with the part number and number of pieces in each. 
 
I am still working on fairing the hull.  I found that a piece of one inch diameter dowel with 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around it is perfect for sanding the curves - bow, stern, and tumble home.  I have also spent time strategising on how to construct the stern framing.  I will share my ideas in a future post.
 
<<Gary>>
 

Hi Chuck -  I found the section you mention on Dubz' build log page 4 near the bottom continuing on the top of page 5.  I had seen it before, but will be sure to pay attention when I get to this stage.  As I understand the problem, I need to check the location of the laser marks on each bulkhead against their locations on Chuck's plans.  Chuck's plans are correct...the  laser marks may not be.  Thanks for looking out for me.  One of the things I appreciate about this web site is the friendly helpful advice and support from other builders.  And one of the things I appreciate about this hobby is that it keeps my mind active - I need to keep thinking things through and not just blindly following directions and gluing parts together.
Thanks again for your help.
 
<<Gary>>

Thank you very much guys...
Moving right along I added the syren figures at the stern.   You can see how I dont have the acanthus leaves carved for the port side yet.   Not enough time in teh day !!!  I am gonna try and get the bust of queen Anne done next which goes on the outside of the tombstone transom.  These two Syren figures were the smallest I have made to date.  I could only merely suggest the details and hopefully your imagination will fill in the blanks.  At least that is what I hear is supposed to happen.  
 
Almost forgot...these are once again resin castings.  I will keep my sculpted originals as masters.
 
Chuck

 

 

Slowly moving aft and getting more carvings completed.   Actually I am concentrating on the sculpted parts now and I will finish the carvings once they are all completed.  Rather than use my master boxwood carvings for the model, I am using resin castings instead.  So all of the carving details you see below are resin. I will keep the original carvings as masters for when the molds wear out.
Chuck

 

 

 

Thanks CDW
 
Scott

Thanks CDW
 
Scott