Haliburton

Just  done  a  side  on view  in Paint  to  show  the  gradient  of the  scenery  or  how  it should  be,  just  shows a  rough  guide  to  the  slope  of the  grounds  from the  wall  road  towards  the   NW,  its  shows  how  I  could  display  like  a  cut through  view  of the  ground  on the  edge  of my  base.
 
OC.

OC, I have one of these cutting tools for foam that works well. I used it for the first time on my Sea King base. It might be useful and not expensive.
 
3-IN-1 Hot Wire Foam Cutter, 8Pcs Electric Styrofoam Cutting Tools Kit, 18W Polystyrene Cutter Styrofoam Cutting Pen with Adaptor, for Foam Carving& Cutting

 
 https://amzn.eu/d/1xRGOFp
 
 

Evening all,    not a lot  to report  - just  a  thin sheet  of flashing added  to  the  extension and  its glued in place now,  its still  waiting on some  blending  dry brushing  to  link  it together.
 
OC.

Weathering  done,  but to  be honest  I am  self  critic-ing  it   -  not sure  if  I  have gone  over the  top?
 
OC.

Evening all,    I have  just brought  my  scenery  board  for  my  raised area,   its coming from China  and  expected  arrival with me  upto Three  weeks,, I have other  stuff  I can do.
 
OC.
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266556642528?var=566325039917

All the cockpit bulkheads have been prepped.
 

When this kit first arrived, I noticed that it is designed to use butt joints. I really dislike butt joints. Because it uses butt joints, no joiner strips are provided -- not even the sort that are typically used to close rings. Hmph.
 
Work proceeded on the first fuselage section. Regardless of what the kit designer intended, I simply made myself a joiner strip to close up the ring, which, as you can see in this first photo, is not entirely ring-shaped. It's a ring where it joins the cowl, but then flares to a flat bottom along the rest of the fuselage. The forward-most bulkhead is a simple circle, but the aft bulkhead has a cutout where cockpit elements will be located. I stiffened the entire flimsy-looking bulkhead with thin CA. I also painted the interior a sort-of canvas-colored tan, because I don't know how much of it will be visible once the fuselage and cockpit are assembled. (BTW, that's just an old, dried glue blob in the lower left corner.)

 
Both bulkheads required some sanding to get them to slip easily into the ring. Here's the completed fuselage section, now mated to the cowl assembly. The cowl has numerous blisters, which I will add later to avoid smooshing them while working on the fuselage.
 

 
That first butt joint turned out well. I'll be very happy if the rest turn out as nice. Moving to the next fuselage section, construction of the forward cockpit begins, so there will be a lot more elements.
 
Cheers!

First two cowl rings and radiator shutters completed.

 
Now I'm busy trying to make sense of the assembly instructions and diagrams, which leave a substantial portion of the build process to the imagination.

First Cuts
 
Construction begins with the forward fuselage. One unusual feature of the Salmson was its powerplant -- a liquid-cooled, 9-cylinder Salmson 9Z radial producing 231 hp. The radiator layout featured shutters that looked rather like fan blades. You can easily see them in this photo:

from Wikimedia Commons
 
And here are the shutters as seen in the construction diagram:

 
The shutters are provided as a flat, printed part depicting the shutters closed, but the instructions say that experienced models may attempt to display them in the open position.
 
Challenge accepted:

 
That job took awhile, so that's all I got done this evening.
 

I've since learned that Capt. Coyle was born in Vermont, making him one of the 'Northern Coyles', who were mostly Catholic. His forebears arrived in Quebec in the early 19th Century before eventually making their way south into Vermont. Our family were Ulster Scots who arrived in the Carolinas sometime in the 18th Century.

Shipman,
 
Bonhams - That is indeed a gorgeous looking piece of machinery.  Est £6k-£7k seems a bit of a steal, but I don't have a motorcycle background so perhaps there are quite a few still around.
 
Just found what appears to be, to my untrained eye, an Army version of the same machine..... 
1944 Triumph 3HW 350cc Ex National Motorcycle Museum Sold for £12,650, Dec 2020 - https://www.handh.co.uk/auction/lot/149-1944-triumph-3hw--350cc/?lot=51466&sd=1

 
Richard

Here's my trusty '56 BSA
EDIT:
A lifelong motorcycle engine designer by the name of Valentine Page worked for JAP, Triumph, Ariel and BSA. He constantly updated his basic single cylinder theme as he moved from one manufacturer to another.
Notice the strong resemblance between the 3HW and the B31 engine below.
Mr Page contributed much to the British Industry, yet he's largely forgotten today.
 

Inspired by the blackness and metallica of the wheels I seem to be heading towards a sort of black and white rendition, bereft of any actual historical fidelity. The tank, fenders and other body parts are in a dark iron lacquer, just because I happened to have it on the table and liked the finish. Looking forward to adding all the bits and pieces of this motorbike. Might seem a little boring colour wise, but I thought all the saddlebags, seat and other paraphernalia that is in this kit might provide a good opportunity for colour contrast with the overall black theme. 

Just a bit tricky installing the lines from the oil tank due to access, and there not being any positive connection point at either end. Thought about using some brass wire instead of the plastic parts but went with the kit part and paint at the end of the day, think it’s believable.
Rear wheel and chain install is next.

Really interested to follow this one Dave. I've been interested in Kotare and I'm hoping they bring some other kits out soon having only recently built a spitfire. I'm definitely in.

I’m in! 🥤🍿👍😊

Interesting company, coming out of WKW. I'll be following your build.

The introductory pictures of this kit are very promising (indeed, the instruction booklet reminds a lot the style of the WnW's). In addition, a Spitfire cannot be missed.
Cheers,
Dan

Thanks guys, I'm at my daughter's in Buffalo seeing a specialist, will update you when I get back home.  

Nope ! Those the out of box Tamiya tracks, which unlike other kit model tracks don't disintegrate after 5-10 years. 

In anticipation of possibly doing a diorama I did pick up two cliff rock face rubber molds by Woodland Scenics. Incredible detail in these molds. 
 

That will be sweet!  Definitely go for the diorama if you can.  

For now I'm calling Walker tank #1 complete.  I decided to hold off on weathering and/or camouflage until I decide on how I want to display it and the Walker tank #2 kit build is completed. But both will have to wait a while until after I deal with a medical issue that just cropped up unexpectedly. 
 
Note to Moderators: This build log is NOT FINISHED YET, only part 1 of 2 is finished.  And there is a possibility of a diorama to be added to this build thread.  
 
The Walker tank model #1:
 

My son found this in a shed at a work site and was told he could have it.  I spent some time sanding with emery cloth to get all the rust out.  I used a small wire brush in my Dremel to get into the deeper pitting. Then it was onto some Gun Bluing and oil.  The handle was done with sand paper and WOP.  I think it turned out ok.

Here is a pristine body fresh out of the factory sealed plastic bag. There are two areas of interest I would like to point out. First notice there are three “gills” located directly behind the rear wheel well openings. The plastic body directly behind these gills should be thinned down by sanding and filing, then the gills be opened up so you can see through with some fine mesh wire attached to the back side. Next in the second photo, notice that mid-way in the rocker panel underneath the door is a small indention. This should also be opened up with fine screen mesh on the back side as these are air scoops to help cool brakes and turbochargers. 
I was not aware of this until after I painted my car body, so I may take this opportunity to correct this oversight now, then paint and use this fresh new body on my model.