Haliburton

Queen Mary 2 finished. And displayed along with Titanic. both very nice looking ships. 
This has been a very good build from a good kit from Revell. However it has not been without the odd problem. Most notably the amount of broken and warped handrails. It has gone together very well for the most part. And the ships boats are 95% in a straight line. It has made a real change to complete a kit in such a short space of time. I could have made it look a lot more detailed with the added PE. But I did not want to add even more time to the build. Time for that with my next build. 

Davits fitted ready for the ships lifeboats. All lifeboats painted ready to be constructed and added. Then a few handrails  to add and it is finished. May finish Tomorrow  or by Thursday  at latest. Took two and a half years to build Titanic from wood. The difference between a wood and plastic build, this has taken just over 4 months. 
And I have these four models for my next project. 
 

Lancia D50 Grand Prix 1954 Test Car, driven by A. Ascari
This will be my first attempt at building a Model Factory Hiro kit, in the tiny 1:43 scale. As is common with any MFH kit, the first order of business will be to check all parts content against the instructions for completeness and deformed/damaged parts (hopefully none). It's common for the fragile little white metal parts to be bent out of shape, but now and then a part may be "short shot". 
For a small model, there are a lot of parts and detail.
As I sort and check the parts, I'll be organizing them into a plastic organizer box after the white metal parts have been run through the magnetic tumbler.
More photos to follow after the parts have been accounted for, cleaned up, and sorted into logical assembly groups. 

So the plans aren’t the best as they are photographs which are very grainy, and they also just miss out on bits! I have parts that I can’t figure out but they double up on the fragile stuff which is good for mistakes. A good razor saw and files are a must 

Quick build, I got this half price recently, Resicast beauty! I also got a 6 inch gun for a later planned diorama, but this one will go with the Roden tractor 

Hello everyone. I'm a new kid on the block. My mum gave me my first model when I was 6. That was 63 years ago. Over the years I have taken great interest in wooden ships. I am now building the Corel HMS Endeavour and I look forward to advice from your members. Thnx D.

Thanks for the tip Jeff. 👍
Let's see how I implement this.
But first of all I built the 12 pounder. There are eight of these to build for this deck.  With 14 individual parts per gun.
 

 
First I solder the gun barrel. Just holds up better.
 

 
The rest is then attached with superglue. What a fumble. But as always with Pontos, fantastically detailed
 

 
Painted and aged, they look so good.
 

 
I have to make eight more of these for the upper deck, sweat.
 

So, here's the basic fuselage parts. The bulkheads and salvaged cockpit bits have already been added to the interior skins.
 

 
The fuselage is kinda flimsy at this point.
 

 
The main exterior skin is now added.
 

 
That's it for now.

Assembling the cockpit required one evening's work.
 

 

Hello!
 
While I was away on Christmas vacation for a week, my Next Project (which I ordered on my birthday back in August) still did not arrive at my house, though the Polish Post swears it is on its way. So in lieu of the Next Project I have decided to go ahead with an interim next project. I have chosen to build the Fokker D.VI from MPModel for a couple of reasons:
The D.VI is mercifully short of rigging. The model is designed by Marek Pacynski.  
That second point needs some additional explanation. Mr. Pacynski's designs have been a mixed bag for me (see here for a prior example). I have completed two of them, but two others wound up in the trash can. The two finished models were both WW2 monoplanes; this one is a WW1 biplane. I have many of the other MPModel biplane kits designed by Mr. Pacynski in my stash, so this one is a guinea pig of sorts -- a build to see how the Pacynski WW1 kits stack up against the WW2 kits. Call me a masochist, but I'm always willing to give a designer another chance at redemption.
 
The D.VI, of which only 59 examples were built, is a relatively small and simple aircraft, so this kit shouldn't take too long to build if everything goes together with a minimum of fuss. That's what we're here to find out if it will do.
 
Stay tuned!
 
P.S. Mr. Pacynski is nothing if not extremely prolific -- you'll note that this kit is #9 in the MPModels series. That line now includes a whopping 124 titles.
 

 

A small update to end the old year. Major construction has now finished on this build. After some careful consideration, I applied only a few of the kit supplied stencil decals. Most of them are illegible anyways, and many were so small that they more resembled specks of dirt.
 
Assembling the landing gear didn't pose too many challenges. There's a small stabilizing strut that was a bit fiddly, but not impossible. The landing gear bay doors were next. I would strongly recommend to anyone building this kit, to avoid attaching the wheels until the last. This gives the most amount of useable working area to get the smaller parts in place. I replaced the kit supplied wheels with CMK resin alternatives. They look quite a bit better, in my opinion.
 
After assembling the landing gear, it was time to give the plane a layer of Dullcote to seal everything in, and remove the masking from the windshield. The canopy and window inserts were painted separately and then added.
 

 

 

 
Over then next few days, I will add a bit of light weathering. I am contemplating adding a small diorama base as well. Anyway, I have had fun with this kit and would recommend it to anyone who likes P-40s. Out of the box, the detail level is great, and can easily be upgraded with well made aftermarket parts. I expect one more update early in the new year with some final photos for everyone. Until then, thanks to you all for your continued kind comments and likes, and have a Happy New Year!
 
Andy

So I think the time has come to call this build finished. Hooray!
 
I've added a little light weathering with my usual PanPastel treatment. I've also dry brushed a little silver paint in the odd place to add a little more wear and tear. I'm no expert when it comes to weathering, but a little here and there helps, I think.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Thanks to everyone who has been following along and to those who have offered their kind comments and likes, your support is greatly appreciated!
 
Andy
 
 

08 The end of 2024 and my lower shrouds are all in! 
 
As this year draws to an end, our Xmas visitors have gone home, and I got the shop back just today.  A little progress was made, but more important was to take some photos to document progress as of the end of the year.
 
01-02.  First up we have two overall shots of the overall scene. One can see a little progress on starting to make up the multiple added spars.   I celebrated getting the 13th and final shrouds on the lower main mast just before cleaning up time.  Most shrouds still have their little wire hooks.
03-06. here are 4 shots from the four quarters. One might note that the lashing of the dead eyes on the starboard side is progressing. I not different approaches to handling the extra line. In USA schooners the tail drops down and ties off to the last riser. I see some other modelers have taken them up.  I have not decided but think I will do what I believe is common at least here in US to drop the lines down and use thin thread to tie them off.

07-09. here we have three photos of the on-deck status. I made up the little brass racks to hold spar spars and things and am now getting to a check list of all those little eye bolts and hidden hocked blocks I need for yard halyard and the like.  I am not sure how many I can fit with my awkward thumbs.   I much prefer 1:48 where I can see better and handle parts better.  I also not that after adding my homemade elm pumps, there really is not a lot of space left to stack boats. That will be a while from now but even so, it seems tight. The kit says raise the boats up high, other builders have the boats low even on a sled, a more practical solution.  We’ll see. 
10-13 here we are in the rigging, the part I like the best as it is a constant learning curve.  I know schooners well. Barks and ships are a big learning challenge for me.  Fortunately, I have the Betts book, and I am using that as best I can.  I notice subtle differences from earlier builds. One example I learned was the use of chain.  Now my chain is 42 links to the inch, which is tiny to say the least. but at 1:75 the links are almost 2 inches. the next size up they would be over 3 inches which I guessed was too big.   I foolishly painted the chain after installing because painting first makes it unmanageable, and I have never successfully blackened chain.    It’s a bit of a mess and hopefully some more dental work will help.  

So the year closes with this a big challenge that I look forward to pursuing.  My big Schooner is still waiting as I have about four more repairs to make to a local restaurant collection.  Mostly busted booms and bow sprits then re rigging.
Happy new year 

07 time to blend early rigging with other on deck work
 
Thank Keith for following along and others for their likes. It is encouraging.
 
I find that each build teaches us lessons on how to better set sequence.  I am not sure however that I can remember previous lessons. Regardless I am moving ahead with masting and standing rigging trying to be sensitive about blocking things out.  A good example is to decide what gets done off the boat and brought in all complete.  I suspect the top mast work might be better done off boat,  but have decided to move forward with lower masts.   On a similar note, as tight as things are, I suspect tying down boats stored amid ship may be difficult if left too late.
Also, I am beginning to fool around with how to present the model.  A funny example to consider is, if the vessel was “pinched “, locked in ice, the rudder and propeller that we all carefully installed should be removed.   One might say I should show her just before getting pinched.  A little water to be present.  We’ll see.  
 
Progress
The first 2 views show two masts starting to be rigged.  I will not lash the dead eyes now but leave them with bent wire connections in case I need to take them out.  The mizzen top is being rebuilt as I learned from other builds there was no “top” on that mast.  as came in the kit.  One can also see I have Styrofoam on the table to get my thinking going on what I want to show.  I think the story will be they are pinched and stuck.  
The second three shots show a little more detail. Up forward I found I need to buy some hearts for the shrouds bob stays etc.   There is still a lot of stuff to go inside here, and I am focusing on getting that in before lashing the shrouds.  Amidship, I received some pump wheels. I am holding up the center until I figure out which two boats to store there and do I make a sled etc.  Further on the mid-section and aft I need to make the racks for spars and do all the other deck stuff before blocking with shrouds.
Finally, I have begun the build within the build that is key to Terror project.  They reportedly sailed with 12 small boats.  There are several lists, and, in the photos, I have accumulated a variety to build.  I have currently a total of 12 including the 3 metal hulls that came in the kit.  I have always struggled working small and have challenged myself to start with these kits and then see what I learn.   In the views I show the group of small boats and then the Amati chain plates that I bought to simplify and I believe improve on  the kit.
  onward we march...
 
 

06  time for a check up on deck progress.
 
thank you one and all for your likes.  
 
I, like many others, get to this stage of a build and go… oh my!  there really is a lot to do!  I have been working away and making some progress.  Thanks again to those that went ahead of me, as I am spending time looking at their posts and Bett’s book for help.  Those before me said; Beware the kit has some issues.  Well, I am trying to fix some things.  It is fun to do.  I will not try to list every change as I go, but I am off and running.
The following images capture a few attempts to follow the plans from Bett’s book. A few examples are nice, and few ended in my “oops:
I scaled his plan and used it for layout.  First up were all those port lights…no problem found.   One who fully studies his plans first, might see that the literal scale of parts as shown on his plan are noticeably smaller than the model kit drawings or parts.  This issue comes up a few different times.  I marched ahead just using his plan and got bit.    On my first attempt I used the layout to cut holes for the bitts.  A week or so later I got the little Massey pump kit parts outs and there is no way to fit them between the bitts as shown on the drawing.    I had to plug two holes and recut the forward bitts, so the pumps would fit between. I also picked up that there are a pair of bitts on the aft side of the main mast to carry both the load of the fife rail and the pump handle.  I chose to keep using the kit sized bitts and that is what I got.  This 1:75 and MM vs inches throws me off.   Perhaps all the bitts should be smaller. Who knows. The last picture shows what I have going forward. 
1-2 shows the plan and holes and the big pumps.  I moved the holes, added the double/pair of aft bits and just ordered some flywheels.   
Forward bitts and things I suggest the same.  I was only able to fit 4 pins in the forward curved rails.   It seems that all this timber is oversized.   So be it.  Same thing for the stern davits. I did bring them down to be closer to the plan. I think 5x5 means ( 5x75=375/25 = 13 inches. Much too big in my mind for davit.  
3-4 Second were things that I tried but decided not to use.  First up was the windless, where I used the plywood parts as a template for a boxwood piece.  But then looking at the cast metal I decided to make my own.
5 I was able to go to a meeting of our local Model club, Downeast Shipmodelers Guild associated with Maine Maritime Museum.  A skilled member shared with me that painting the hull black was a much better presentation than the walnut-stained wood he saw earlier at our recent club showing.   I thanked him!
6- 8. I learned from previous blogs that the main davits were critical and different from the kit.  I tried to use their smarts and have progressed as they need to go in early. I also made my attempt to make the water closet/ bowsain’s locker.  I still am a little dubious on this subject.  Some 50 men on board and only one head other than the captain’s personal seat of ease.   Normally officers share something the aft galleries, but these were removed for arctic service.  Therefore, as I find Betts drawing nonspecific as to port and starboard but only one drawing conflicts with his addition of the forward door on the port side on his model.  Thus, I made them as if both were heads but added the questionable door on the port side.    The things we can get hung up on !
9-11 . I got an order of lettering for three different builds.  I think the Terror came out OK. I had two more-dimension issues. Based on many comments of earlier builds, I went online and ordered a 3 D printed 10 spoke wheel. It was for a close scale, but it is easy to see way too big.  I retired it and went with the kit wheel.  However, I note that even it is too big to satisfy Bett’s drawing.  We do the best we can and move on.  A third issue is the reported elm pumps just aft of the forward gangway.  I ordered the best I could find but it is double the size.  I used it for a model and made my own. I set the Amati 20MM pump behind to show how big it is.  
Well, there is so much to do we shall just keep on as winter and the holidays are headed our way
Cheers 
 

04 My transit of the NW Passage 
 
I won’t try to tell the whole story but will at least include a few images of my tracing the route of the Franklin Expedition through the  NW Passage this August/September.
 
1.     here is copy of the total route we took. The trip is managed extremely well by Adventure Canada...  
Greenland
We started from the airport 100 miles up the fiord at Kangerlussuak.  Ports of call included the towns of Sisimiut and Ilulissat.  We also had a stop on Disko Island.  We know that the two vessels HMS Erebus and HMS Terror took on supplies from a supply vessel at Disko Island, a common port of call for whalers and other explorers before heading either north to Melville Sound or straight across Davis Strait. 
 
2      On shore at Disko Island, we were with our geologist, as he explained another episode in the evolution of the arctic. He turned out to be a critical part of this story.  
Baffin and Devon Islands
3     We crossed the Davis straight and landed at Pond Inlet.  This town is there for a former airbase, now an airport, at the north end of Baffin Island, as well as the large Iron mine in the region. This view is the Pond Inlet overview looking north toward Bylot Island.  
4      here is the NE corner of Baffin Island.  This location is often mentioned as a rendezvous site for the Franklin follow up exploration fleets, whaling fleets etc.  
5     We rounded Bylot island to enter Lancaster sound and reached Dundas Harbour.  Dundas Harbour is where in the 1920’s RCMP officers were stationed, so that Devon Island would be considered occupied. They did not do well as two were dead when the replacement vessel returned three years later.    
6     Running to the west, we stopped at Beechey Island.   Beechey Island is the known last winter encampment of the Franklin expedition.  Here are the graves of three of their members and one for a rescue party sailor who died years later.  
7     As one of our team leaders suggested, only a British admiral would have considered that this nice, protected harbor would be a great place to winter.    One would be frozen in for 9-10 months where there was no vegetation nor food of any kind.  There were polar bears that were hunting seals out on the ice, and that was it.    
8     Several years later, a wrecked schooner at the north end of Beechey Island was demolished and used to build a Cache by Hudson Bay Company and called Northumberland house. It was intended both for any Franklin rescue/ searchers or others in need.    
Franklin’s route 
 
9    we ran into sea ice traveling west from Beechey Island. We enjoyed a wonderful sunset zodiac outing with great photo ops.    
10    here is the map showing the mystery of the southern route taken by Franklin from Beechey Island .   The Peel sound was often full of Ice as was the Bellot strait. The mystery is how to get to the point NW of King Williams Island, the point of Franklin’s final capture by old sea ice. There are many theories of what route was taken after leaving Beechey Island.   
One thing I learned is a study now underway by Parks Canada and the geological institute in Ottawa.  The annual diving now taking place on HMS Erebus is focused on the damaged side of the hull that is slowly being crushed and is slowly collapsing.   It is the naval officer's cabins being searched now, because the scientific officer's  cabins are in good shape, and will be explored in later years.  There are only about two weeks of diving each summer, so time is of the essence. 
 
What was found in these naval officer cabins is a surprise; it is a collection of 16 rock samples.  These samples are being analyzed. Let’s wait for the actual scientists to publish their findings, but the short version is this tale.    The geologist on our cruise is the geologist doing this study.  He can take a rock sample and identify which coastline of which island is the source.  Thus if the sailors collected souvenirs along the way that is a way to trace the route….hold that thought.
 
The ice this year was different than the last few years.  The tour normally travels south down Prince Regent Inlet and through the Bellot Strait.   This year we went up around the sea ice we encountered and sailed down the Peel Sound into the Franklin Strait.  
11.    On the way, we landed at Prescott Island just off the east coast of Prince of Wales Island. It as a first time ever landing by Adventure Canada, our Expedition team.    
12.    Not only were there hundreds of Beluga whales there, but we also found a distinct red rock.  Our geologist cut out samples for the study. [ obviously he is allowed to do so…smile] He also predicted that this new sample will match one of the 16 samples that he knows well…….wow.  we were there when he found it! I can’t wait for the next Parks Canada publication on their progress.  
The tour then made two transits of the Bellot strait. 
 
13.                    Here is the monument showing the northernmost point of continental North America, halfway through Bellot Strait.  Yes it is further north than Alaska!  
The finding of Franklin’s route
14      Later that afternoon we were cruising along headed for Cambridge Bay on the south shore of Victoria Island and we crossed the straight where HMS Erebus and HMS Terror were [pinched] stuck.  We saw no ice whatsoever! What was great was in mid afternoon, we saw a fogbow….how appropriate.  
The tour ended in Coppermine, now Kugluktuk.  A place of much history, but for another day.  I look forward to getting back into this build.  More house guests just left, so maybe next week.
 
Cheers 
Jon
 

I set up a jig to cut the diagonal deck planks. Took an hour (maybe two) to make the jig, but the actual cutting was then really quick (maybe 30 mins to cut all ~120 planks, all really consistent in length and angle.

 

 

 
I laid out the planks on modeling tape against a straight edge. Fiddly work required some patience ... Brushing glue over them also stuck them to each other which was fine - but on my second run (the other side of the ship) I finished by trimming all of them at once with a straight-edge (taking care not to take off too much!) on the side that was to butt against the centre deck planks. About 1/2 mm.
 
After the glue had dried, I marked the glued side with a yellow sharpie in case any of them fell out or I had to figure out which side was glued.

 
 
Here is the end result:

 
I used the disc knife to trim wherever I could - better a "rolling" cut than a "sliding" one.

Photos attached are two views with all the frames built out, glued, shaped and installed. Just for into, I'm using LePage's "No More Clamp" glue - so far I really like it. Has enough time for readjustment (5 minutes), but don't need to hold things in place for too long (10 seconds according to the instructions).
 

 
 

 
The deck is not yet glued, and I am questioning the order in which to do the deck planking and assembly. I see two serious options:
The OcCre instructions would have me plank the deck, assemble it to the framework, then plank the hull. This means the planking would be done on a flat deck, and the deck then (slightly) curved to fit the framework. Turning the assembly over to plank the hull then exposes the deck planking to damage during the hull planking. My instinct is to assemble the deck to the frame, plank the hull, then plank the deck. Assembling the deck to the frame and gluing it in place will provide rigidity to the assembly to help maintain symmetry while the hull planking proceeds, and leaving the deck planking till later avoids rubbing and damage to the deck planking while the hull is planked and sanded to shape.

Initial pieces to build out frames 5, 9 and 10 shown before assembly. I interpreted the dimensions as best I could from Matthew Betts' book. Managed to find enough scraps of wood in the sprue in the kit. Rough to work with but I think it will do the job, once they are glued.
 
 
 
 
They will need final sanding and shaping so the bottom of the hull is all at the same level. Shown here with frames 4, 6 and 7 which will remain unmodified:

 
I did see suggestions that one way to eliminate the "bulge" was to sand down frames 6 and 7, but it seems to me the resulting hull shape would not be accurate.

Hello Everyone.
I have opened the box ... 
After reading many posts and a couple of build logs on this site I have decided to try to deal with the "Hull Bulge" by "building out" three of the frames/bulkheads, based on Matthew Betts' detailed description, using wood from the OcCre sprue that held the frames supplied in the kit.
Results of these efforts will be posted. Modifying the frames should be easy enough; planking is what scares me 😬
 

The second plane has been a little easier.  I did realize that the cowling shapes differed between the B-1 which was my kit versus the B-2 which i am modeling.  It helped a lot having the Hobby 2000 B-2 boxing for the other model so that I had a model to convert the B-1 cowlings.  It wasn't too difficult, and I didn't try to make them absolutely perfect given that the engines are going to be tarped anyway (all I needed was the general shape):
 

 
With the cannon pod removed from the plane in this diorama, I realized that all that would be remaining would be the cannon rack as well as the open space in the bottom of the fuselage for the ammo, etc.  So, I cut open the bottom of the fuselage similar to how I did the other.  Much easier this time around as I didn't have the various aftermarket detail pieces in the fuselage so the fuselage was essentially hollow.  After cutting, all I really had to do was line it which was fairly easy.  I'll scratch the cannon rack and add it separately at the end of the build.   
 

 
This model is also primed, so I can start throwing on some color tomorrow:
 

 

 
Thanks for looking in!
 
 
 

Quick update on these models:
 
For the first diorama, I've gotten the plane and most of its parts primed.  The flaps gave me a little issue as I was planning to use the CMK flaps so cut them off the kit wings.  Well, as you can see in the picture below, the CMK flaps (upper right) are too short relative to the kit parts I cut off (bottom two on the right).  Thankfully I remembered I had the Verlinden set which had flaps that were the proper size (top left, relative to the kit parts I cut off immediately below it).
 

 
I finally got the pushrods added to the Vector engines.  A real pain, but I eventually figured out a way to get them installed - only 28 per engine!  But, the engines look pretty good now.  I had toyed with the idea of adding a small connector at the ends of each rod using minuscule pieces of brass tube, but I dropped that idea quickly as it was just going to be too difficult and take way too much time.
 

 
Here are pictures of the plane almost completely assembled, and later primed:
 

 

 

 
I also remembered that I had a Verlinden "Luftwaffe Airfield Carts" that is a multimedia set that allows you to build an oil cart (first two pictures below) and a power supply cart (second two pictures below).  Took much longer than one would think, but the two came out really nice I thought:
 

 

 

 

 
I'll probably use one of these in the diorama, as I found this picture:

 
Thanks for looking in!

While trying to figure out the landing gear bays, I also decided to take a look at the ventral cannon pod.  The Hs 129 had a number of weapons configurations as you can see below:
 

 
 
The plane I'm modeling had a Mk 101 30mm cannon - if you're looking at the picture above, it's the second from the top of the four weapons on the left side.  Here's a cutaway diagram of it installed:
 

 
 
 
The rack holding the cannon was on hinges, where the rack/gun swung down for service (and I think to reload).  Here is a picture:
 

 
 
Here is a picture of mechanic working on a Mk 103 cannon (different cannon from mine, but same principle):
 

 
 
When I saw these pictures, I thought to myself - how cool would it be to model that?  Seemed a little complicated to scratch build so I focused on finding an aftermarket Mk 101 cannon to improve on the kit part.  Essentially, was just looking for a brass barrel given the gun itself was mostly hidden in the pod.  Well nobody seems to make a brass Mk 101 barrel.  I did randomly stumble upon a printed cannon by Omask specially designed for this kit.  Figured it looked pretty cool and would be more detailed than the old kit cannon.  
 

 
When I opened the Omask set, I was really surprised to see that Omask gave your parts to actually build build an opened up Mk 101 cannon like in the pictures above!  
 

 

 
 
As an aside, the print quality on this set is fantastic.  I am very impressed with what you get.  As you can see in the instruction sheet above in the top right corner, you can show the cannon pod closed, or in one of two open configurations (one with the pod shell off and one with it on).  I'll probably model mine with the pod shell off to show the full gun detail.
I was initially super excited after cutting the parts out, but then realized to make it all work, I needed to cut out an opening for the gun bay tub.  This, not only after I had already closed up the fuselage, but had already inserted the CMK interior tub and the Aires MG 151 fuselage gun set.  I was really worried with how deep the tub was, as it would definitely bump into both the CMK tub and the Aires gun set.  
 
Warning - graphic photos follow:
 
After sleeping on it, I decided to go for it.  I used a cut off wheel and a hobby knife to cut through the bottom fuselage plastic.  The gun bay tub sat directly under the fuel tank that is part of the interior tub from the CMK set.  With a grinding bit in my micromotor, I had to grind out the bottom half of the fuel tank, as well as a small portion of the corner of the Aires gun set.  Everything just barely fit, with probably not even 1mm to spare - whew!  
 

 

 

 
 
Just need a little filler around the edges and it's good to go.  To make sure the tub sat properly, I put in some blobs of Tamiya two-part epoxy putty, and pushed the tub into it.  That seemed the easiest and most effective way to secure it in place in the right position.
 
That's enough excitement for today.  If I smoked, I'd probably need a cigarette right now.  Just glad it all worked out!

Quick update on where I am with the two Hs 129 builds.  I've been slowly working through the various details pieces like the engines, guns, landing gear, props, etc.  Everything on this Hasegawa/Hobby 2000 kit is going together really nicely.  If I wasn't adding in all the various aftermarket, I'd probably be long done now.
 
For my first diorama of the Hs 129 being serviced, I wanted to show at least one engine exposed.  The Verlinden set has only one engine in it, which made me think it would look a bit odd to have the two engines look different from one another.  I ended up finding two engines from Vector which are really nice.  Here they are next to the kit engine - I just need to add the rods, but you can see how much detail Vector includes which should make for a nice exposed engine.
 

 
Next post will be on the bottom cannon.