Haliburton

So overnight we developed a massive list to port side! It’s stuck solid. So, no change in plan, it will just be a more dramatic rescue scene. I could t figure out why until I looked inside the hull and the seam has leaked letting in resin which as set hard as ballast.
 
annoying but it will work 

Forgive me if I'm entering this is the wrong place, but I am a bit confused. I just found and signed up yesterday while I was searching for how to make chainplates for the Armed Virginia Sloop Model Shipways# 2160. It is my second model following the "Phantom".  At any rate, this looks like a good source of information but I really need some help with regard to how to navigate the entire source. Cheers! 

So the 4 litre pour, looks ok so far, it will take a week to set 

So next is the radioactive bit. I used AK radioactive water but in the black surface it does not show at all.
So a few drops of a vivid green acrylic in the mix works well.
Remember there will be a coat on top on this and it will all be under water 

Sludge on top

And here is the corner piece which is important to the story 

Deck rusted up with pigments, dryfit of the superstructures; lots of equipment to go on deck yet as it will diffuse the starkness of it 
IMG_0484.mov

So that’ll do for the lower hull as it will be under water (clear resin) 

Progress is not blazing, but I finished the jib boom sans rigging. Well, a Cheerful jib boom, per plans from Chuck.
 
Used styrene and brass wire to model the iron band at the end of the boom with eyes for the guys and stays.

And I drilled and carved a sheave into the end. I think I used too big a drill making the sheave wider than it should be, but it's close enough for a first effort.

And the other end is a good fit for the bits and the cutout in the bow.

Still waiting for some brass nails small enough to anchor the chainplates against the hull, and I'm probably going to order a new mill this week. Next up is the mainmast, following the Cheerful instructions.
 

Some in process photos, one of those days when you don't quite finish anything. 
 
I have Lady Nelson up on my GRS engraver's block again. It's an extravagance but one I bought 20 years ago so it's amortized nicely. I honestly don't know how some of these guys do the phenomenal work that they do without an engraver's block to hold and spin and twist the subject with. Anyway, starting to mount the lower deadeyes. The chainplate is pretty generic but I don't want to scratchbuild yet another thing so I'm going with them.


They look pretty nasty right now with most of the black off from the rough handling of bending them. They will have to be touched up with black paint but not until they're tacked down and I can't find the brass nails that came with the kit, so I ordered some- another wait for a week or so before I can wrap this up.
 
On the good side, the four jaw chuck key came today, so I started working on the masting, going first with the jib boom.


Got tired, so stopped here. Tomorrow will finish off the jib boom and start working on the mainmast. BTW, I am using Castillo boxwood for the masts and yards, I really like the almost invisible grain and figure on the wood I got from Jason @Crown Timberyard, too bad he closed down.
 

Disclaimer

This is not something serious, I just found another computer game to tinker with.
 
The models are not mine - it is very difficult to change the models except replacing parts like radars or turrets (while it's technically possible to edit the meshes, it requires enormous amount of effort so I won't do that for now certainly), but at least I can repaint them and change various settings, so it is more akin to plastic modelling with decals and paint.
 
The game in question is called Sea Power, it had been recently released as Early Access and it allows to play with various Cold War scenarios. The number of the models the game is released with is relatively limited, and there are no British ships yet. But I wanted some.
 
It took some time, but I finally figured out how to force the game to load textures from external files, so lo and behold, the Royal Navy of Socialist Britain.
 
The British design school of the 70-80's is, in fact, closer to Soviet than US, and simply repainting the Kara (1134b) gives a quite close impression of actually projected circa 1985 Type 43 destroyer. And that gave me a start. Imagine a Britain that ended up in the Warsaw Pact, apply the Russian reversal (in Soviet Britain the Navy economizes on you), and use Soviet projects as base, because there are no other models in the game. So 1134b becomes Type 84 cruiser (as follow up for Type 82 Bristol), 1155 (Udaloy) - Type 24 frigate, and Kiev replaces Invincible on steroids. Harrier is still there (but uses Soviet weapons), but instead of Sea Kings there are now Ka-27s. I used indexes that do not intersect with real ships in order to incorporate them later, when they, as the authors promise, will be released. In short, it's something between a dream and a nightmare for a British admiral - you get what you want, under certain conditions.
 
Alas, it's all so niche I can't expect anybody to understand the enormous amount of joy I get from this, but I do want to share at least the visual part. Don't judge too harshly.
 

 

Just came onto this site yesterday and wanted to add some pictures of my Mikasa model by Trumpeter.  I started this one (my second model) in February and have been working on it ever since except for the last month.  I've been down with Covid and really haven't felt up to working on her lately though I plan to get back into it this weekend.  I bought both the Pontos and KA Models kits to go along with the basic set and have really enjoyed the work.  I'm including some pictures below.  Most show the state she's in now.  Sorry, there are so many pictures, but there are so many details I wanted to show.  Thanks.

This is a M1224A1 Maxx Pro Mine Resistant Ambush Protected Expedient Armor Program All Terrain Vehicle. The kit is from Galaxy Hobby. (1/72, GH72A04)
 

 
Where are my international parcels! (No thanks to emergency martial law.)

Thanks to everyone, as always, for the kind words and likes!
 
A small update to share with you all!
 
Major painting is now finished. A nice milestone to have achieved in any build! The final element involved the application of the yellow leading edge ID stripes, fighter command stripes, or whatever they're properly called!
 

 
A little bit hard to see in this photograph, I'll admit, but they're there! They show up a bit better in this photo:
 

 
Digging for photos online produced some mixed results in trying to determine if the yellow stripes were in use or not. It seems to have been on a squadron by squadron basis. Most importantly, for 112 Squadron, they were applied. As you can see, I have also pulled off the "masking" canopy so I can touch up any of the small missed areas or any bleed before I add a clear gloss coat in preparation for the lettering.
 
The underside of the plane was also not ignored:
 

 
The tail landing gear doors have been added and the interior sides painted green. I've also added a drop tank. It took me a long time to figure out if I should add one or not. From what I've been able to dig up online, no photo of a 112 squadron P-40 exists with a drop tank attached. However, one many pictures there are brackets. Not sure if those were for a bomb or a fuel tank. Some great colour photos can be found here. Ultimately my decision came down to necessity and a bit of modeller's license. If you take a quick scroll up to my last build update, you can see four holes on the belly of the aircraft, inboard from the landing gear bays. in order to avoid using a bomb or belly tank, I would have had to fill those holes. I hadn't fully made up my mind about things when I started painting, and I didn't want to delay the build any further. Ultimately, seeing prototype pictures of the empty brackets suggested that I was free to do what I wanted, and I think the belly tank does look pretty good on a P-40 anyway. Besides, I haven't yet made an airplane model with an exterior fuel tank, so it was about time!
 
That's about it for now. Hopefully the next update will see the lettering applied! Thanks again for the comments and likes!
 
Andy
 

Hi Joelle; good to see you back where you belong, in a better place I hope, sorry to hear of your recent upsets, and condolences on the passing of your mother, always an extremely difficult time this. Try to divert your attention a little bit with an alteration l noticed could be made that  never did myself. The six inch gun fixing points on main deck, four off, are set to far inboard by 2 to 3mm, easy fix at this stage, puts them in area where there is no plastic, not a massive problem for you. You’ll see what l mean if you try to point the gun parallel to the bridge structures whilst in stowed position, they don’t work, guns not in properly centred in casement, lm sure l mentioned a few points near the end off my build log saying things that l would correct if building it again. Hope this is of help to you 🤛  As l say good to see you back. 👍

Thank you very much for your participation.
 
@  Landlubber Mike
Mike, I'm sorry that I'm only answering now, but my head was full of other things and model building is only slowly getting going again for me.
Thank you for the compliment. Since I know that your model building skills are in no way inferior to mine, I am very excited to see what you will conjure up with the 1:700 kit. I hope you let us be part of it here.
 
@ Jeff59
That's right Jeff, our nice hobby lets you clear your head from the worries of everyday life. Especially if you get helpful ideas from users to make your model even better.
When I was testing the cannons, I asked myself what was wrong.
 

 
And you give me the solution now, Jeff.
The axis must move further forward and into the middle of the casemate.
 

 
 
Just made a spacer out of styrene.
 

 
And then the cannons could take their place.
 

 
That looks better....
 

 
They are now sitting nicely in the middle.
 

 
And the height is also right thanks to the spacers.
 

I've been slowly working on the deck houses. I'm pretty happy with the way its going so far. I'm really looking forward to getting to the masts but it's still a ways away for me. It's been fun figuring out the best way to work out assemblies. 




 
 

The repairs have started. It's going to take a little time to get back into the flow for sure. I need to get back to an organized workbench to. I will work on better tool storage and keeping a clean work surface. Here are a couple of pictures of how it looks right now with some repairs done.

It's sure been a long time since I posted on this build. After my wife had her stroke, it was the last thing on my mind. I'm getting ready to pick it back up. In all this time I've lost some parts and 2 sheets of the plans. The nice folks at Model Expo replacement them with no questions asked. The hull fell off a pretty high shelf and has some damage that needs to be fixed. Since it will need a re-paint I'll take to opportunity to go with the yellow hull. It will be a good model to get my mojo back and get my mind occupied with something positive. I'll start posting regularly as soon as I get it on the bench. 
 
I have an Armed Virginia Sloop kit to build next and then Chucks beautiful Cheerful kit. If all goes well I might get started on the Winchelsea next year. I'll have to see if I feel like my skills are up to it. I'm so glad to be in a position to get back at it and be among friends here on the forum. I see we have lost a couple of good people since I was a regular and that really saddens me. They were good people always with a kind word and willingness to help. 

The Big Reveal!
 
And so, just two days shy of two months from beginning to end, we reach the end of this journey. As is usual with Halinski kits, which have sometimes been described as 'over engineered', this model was quite a challenge to build and thus very rewarding to finish. It is not a kit for the faint of heart or neophyte card modeler, but its degree of detail and realistic artwork are matched by few other publishers in the hobby. On to the pictures!
 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thanks for stopping in, and I'll catch y'all on the next one!

Oh, I don't think I ever showed the harpy box label. My step son, who works in marketing, asked if he could have a go, so most of this is him, a little more minimalistic than normal...

While waiting for some supplies to arrive- glues, thinners, paints, etc. as I had to dump almost all of my liquids for the move, I have been looking at the rigging and at this point I am very confused about what I will do. Chruck's Cheerful and Lennarth Petersson in his book where he covers a British cutter rig, and all the contemporary models I can find in the gallery show a mainmast and a topmast and two yards, a lower yard and a topsail yard. 
 
However, the Lady Nelson plans have a very long (for the cutter's length) mainmast set up to hang two yards and a relatively short topmast that carries yet another yard- they're called lower, middle, and upper yards in the plans which doesn't help much.
 
Basically the good sources which show accurate rigs, the kind of thing I need to be able to recreate the rig in scale, means if I follow them I'm dumping the plan rig entirely and going with a scratch rig. That doesn't bother me except I will need to do something to convert the Cheerful plans to 1/64 to get the mast and yard lengths and widths, as the LN mast and yard diagrams will be wrong.
 
Meanwhile, here are a couple pics that show the Lady Nelson made it through the 3500 mile move in perfect shape. In the first pic you can see the holly decking has lost its bone whiteness for a much nicer cream color, which was the plan.

And with respect to the planking, we can see that after five years we've had just a little bit of movement so now you can see some of the plank edges where it was totally smooth before. This is also to plan, I didn't put any glue on the edges of the planks so that they could move relative to each other.

Welcome back!  I was hoping everything was ok as you hadn't posted in a while.  I don't know if you remember, but you helped me with a bunch of tool purchases years ago.  The one I'm most appreciative of is the Japanese micromotor - that has made modeling for me so much easier and more precise, particularly as I fell into the black hole of plastic model kits.
 
Charlottesville is a magical place, I'm jealous!  I went to UVA for grad school and have been counting the days to retire back down there.
 
By the way, nice looking shop!  

Thanks for the kind words folks, it was a minor five year layoff. The fact is that work became even more time consuming and stressful and I couldn't spin down enough to manage the precision I strive for daily, so I stopped spending time in the shop. 
 
The good news (from my perspective at least) is that I retired from Visa in June, and after much preparation I have finally moved away from the stress of working in Silicon Valley for the relative peace, quiet, and much lower living costs of Charlottesville, VA. I and my partner have spent the last month working every day all day to unpack, and considerable time was spent setting up my new workshop.
 
Um first question is why is inserting an image from an Imgur URL failing? I tried inserting the link wrapped in BBCode too and that didn't work either. I guess I will just attach images to the post until I figure out how to insert them inline again.
 
Anyway, one pic is my new workshop finally fully operational, the other is the agenda- as you see I have a few kits piled up including three ships of the line (Vanguard, Victory, and Montanes), a race-built galleon in HMS Revenge, and Model Shipway's Constitution. That's not even counting the three brig models or all the rest, the point being I have enough to keep me busy for quite a while. I may not have been able to work the last five years, but I kept stocking the kit closet 😀
 
With respect to the workshop, not seen on the other side of the room are the three Byrnes machines- the saw, the disc sander, and the thickness sander. I was saddened to see he had passed away and I feel even luckier to have his machines.
 
Anyway, as I wrap up the final steps of unpacking I will finally have time to start spending my days on the Lady Nelson and getting her rigging done so I can move on to one of the brigs. I have been reviewing Lennarth Petersson's Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft which is excellent, but I have questions about the cutter rig described within. I'm going to post a separate thread with the questions as I think that will get more answers than just asking them in one of many many build logs.
 
 

Nice job on those winches, they look great!
Scott