bartley

Post 24: First Belt of deck Planking
 
The first six planks either side of the central five are now laid. Reasonably straight forward once the once the deck is lined out properly. Now comes the more difficult part of cutting the hooked scarphs while at the same time maintaining the correct taper. It will be a challenge.  But that is the fun part of the hobby,
 
John

Post 24: First Belt of deck Planking
 
The first six planks either side of the central five are now laid. Reasonably straight forward once the once the deck is lined out properly. Now comes the more difficult part of cutting the hooked scarphs while at the same time maintaining the correct taper. It will be a challenge.  But that is the fun part of the hobby,
 
John

Post 24: First Belt of deck Planking
 
The first six planks either side of the central five are now laid. Reasonably straight forward once the once the deck is lined out properly. Now comes the more difficult part of cutting the hooked scarphs while at the same time maintaining the correct taper. It will be a challenge.  But that is the fun part of the hobby,
 
John

Post 24: First Belt of deck Planking
 
The first six planks either side of the central five are now laid. Reasonably straight forward once the once the deck is lined out properly. Now comes the more difficult part of cutting the hooked scarphs while at the same time maintaining the correct taper. It will be a challenge.  But that is the fun part of the hobby,
 
John

Post 24: First Belt of deck Planking
 
The first six planks either side of the central five are now laid. Reasonably straight forward once the once the deck is lined out properly. Now comes the more difficult part of cutting the hooked scarphs while at the same time maintaining the correct taper. It will be a challenge.  But that is the fun part of the hobby,
 
John

OK Glenn,
 
 First of al I have to say that mine are not as good as some others on this site. Probably everybody is going to find their own way to do this.  First, I suggest you practice on some scrap.  I didn't do this but I should have as I started to run out of timber!  Chuck outlines the pattern in his log so I first drew up what looked like a symmetrical scarph on card and then scribed that on the timber. Then I cut outside the lines with an Exacto blade and then filed up to the line with a needle file. It is important that each of the long sides is really flat. If it is even slightly curved you will never match that curve when you cut. the matching scarph.  So for the matching one I put the first plank (with its scarph cut) on top of the next plank and scribed its pattern on that plank.  Then cut the next scarph in the same way. As I say this is only one way.  You have to really find a way which works for you.  I think the main thing is to use the same method for each scaph otherwise they are unlikely to match.
 
I hope this helps.
 
Incidentally, years ago a watched a guy who built wooden fishing  trawlers do this.  He left a gap in the center.  Then he drove wedges into that gap to tighten the scarph.  No glue!!
 
 
 
John

Post 23 : Central Planking
 
I have now completed the installation of the Deck furniture and the central planking.
 
I made sure that the various units matched the deck camber by attaching a piece of sandpaper to the deck and moving the item back and forth:

I made sure that he items were correctly placed by using a jig made from thick card:

The planking around these items took some time but seems to be OK now:
 


 

Chuck,
 
Thank you for your kind words.  I am preparing for deck planking now.  Does this curve look about right. 
 

 
I have not done curved planking before and am looking forward to it.
 
John

Post 22:  Margin Planks
 
I have been away from the workshop for a bit but the caprails and margin planks are now complete.  The margin planks were difficult until I established a technique for fabricating these.  several attempts ended up in the bin.  They are not in Chuck's league but are as good as I could get them.
 

John

Post 21
 
False Deck and Caprails
 
It took me a couple of goes to get a reasonable fit for the false deck
 

 
Then the bulwarks were planked and painted
 

 
And finally the caprails added in three pieces
 


 
I am not sure why the stern here looks so dirty.  This must be something to do with the lighting I used because it is quite clean in fact.
 
John

Post 24: First Belt of deck Planking
 
The first six planks either side of the central five are now laid. Reasonably straight forward once the once the deck is lined out properly. Now comes the more difficult part of cutting the hooked scarphs while at the same time maintaining the correct taper. It will be a challenge.  But that is the fun part of the hobby,
 
John

OK Glenn,
 
 First of al I have to say that mine are not as good as some others on this site. Probably everybody is going to find their own way to do this.  First, I suggest you practice on some scrap.  I didn't do this but I should have as I started to run out of timber!  Chuck outlines the pattern in his log so I first drew up what looked like a symmetrical scarph on card and then scribed that on the timber. Then I cut outside the lines with an Exacto blade and then filed up to the line with a needle file. It is important that each of the long sides is really flat. If it is even slightly curved you will never match that curve when you cut. the matching scarph.  So for the matching one I put the first plank (with its scarph cut) on top of the next plank and scribed its pattern on that plank.  Then cut the next scarph in the same way. As I say this is only one way.  You have to really find a way which works for you.  I think the main thing is to use the same method for each scaph otherwise they are unlikely to match.
 
I hope this helps.
 
Incidentally, years ago a watched a guy who built wooden fishing  trawlers do this.  He left a gap in the center.  Then he drove wedges into that gap to tighten the scarph.  No glue!!
 
 
 
John

Post 23 : Central Planking
 
I have now completed the installation of the Deck furniture and the central planking.
 
I made sure that the various units matched the deck camber by attaching a piece of sandpaper to the deck and moving the item back and forth:

I made sure that he items were correctly placed by using a jig made from thick card:

The planking around these items took some time but seems to be OK now:
 


 

Chuck,
 
Thank you for your kind words.  I am preparing for deck planking now.  Does this curve look about right. 
 

 
I have not done curved planking before and am looking forward to it.
 
John

Post 22:  Margin Planks
 
I have been away from the workshop for a bit but the caprails and margin planks are now complete.  The margin planks were difficult until I established a technique for fabricating these.  several attempts ended up in the bin.  They are not in Chuck's league but are as good as I could get them.
 

John

Post 20
 
Fancy Molding
 
I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
 


 


 

I found the production of these moldings quite challenging. Because I have only a limited supply of boxwood I made some initial tests with yellow cedar. However, this  gave very indistinct results and it was only when I used boxwood that I could obtain a satisfactory profile.  I also stuck the strip to my bench with double sided tape to stop it moving. I found that several light strokes were best until the profile was established and then I could be more aggressive.
 

Post 19 - Treenails
 
I used Chuck's method of drilling and filling. I used 1.3 mm tape to ensure that the holes were in line and corresponded to bulkheads and predicted positions of frames
 
 
 
 
I then used a sharp HB pencil to line the holes ans simulate tar.  I found that care was needed here.  If I was too aggressive there was excess graphite around the hole which made the filler darker resulting in a variation in the colour of the treenails
 

 
The result is quite subtle - as I believe it should be.  The treenails can only really be seen from up close
 


 
 
 
When I was a boy two Dutch children arrived at my school - no English, but it didn't take long
 
 
After a year or so their father built a house for the family.
 
 
This house was unique for two reasons:
 
 
1. It was varnished - in those days all houses in our town were painted.
 
 
2. It was claimed that he used no nails.
 
 
It turned out that all of the external weather-boards were attached to the studs with wooden pegs - treenails! (although I didn't Know the term then)
 
 
When I visited the house after getting to know the Dutch children I found that from the road there was no evidence of any pegs..  It was only when one approached within a meter or so that the begs became obvious,
 
 
I don't know if he had worked in the ship building industry but the point was that the effect of the wooden pegs was quite subtle.
 
 
John
 
 
 

OK Glenn,
 
 First of al I have to say that mine are not as good as some others on this site. Probably everybody is going to find their own way to do this.  First, I suggest you practice on some scrap.  I didn't do this but I should have as I started to run out of timber!  Chuck outlines the pattern in his log so I first drew up what looked like a symmetrical scarph on card and then scribed that on the timber. Then I cut outside the lines with an Exacto blade and then filed up to the line with a needle file. It is important that each of the long sides is really flat. If it is even slightly curved you will never match that curve when you cut. the matching scarph.  So for the matching one I put the first plank (with its scarph cut) on top of the next plank and scribed its pattern on that plank.  Then cut the next scarph in the same way. As I say this is only one way.  You have to really find a way which works for you.  I think the main thing is to use the same method for each scaph otherwise they are unlikely to match.
 
I hope this helps.
 
Incidentally, years ago a watched a guy who built wooden fishing  trawlers do this.  He left a gap in the center.  Then he drove wedges into that gap to tighten the scarph.  No glue!!
 
 
 
John

OK Glenn,
 
 First of al I have to say that mine are not as good as some others on this site. Probably everybody is going to find their own way to do this.  First, I suggest you practice on some scrap.  I didn't do this but I should have as I started to run out of timber!  Chuck outlines the pattern in his log so I first drew up what looked like a symmetrical scarph on card and then scribed that on the timber. Then I cut outside the lines with an Exacto blade and then filed up to the line with a needle file. It is important that each of the long sides is really flat. If it is even slightly curved you will never match that curve when you cut. the matching scarph.  So for the matching one I put the first plank (with its scarph cut) on top of the next plank and scribed its pattern on that plank.  Then cut the next scarph in the same way. As I say this is only one way.  You have to really find a way which works for you.  I think the main thing is to use the same method for each scaph otherwise they are unlikely to match.
 
I hope this helps.
 
Incidentally, years ago a watched a guy who built wooden fishing  trawlers do this.  He left a gap in the center.  Then he drove wedges into that gap to tighten the scarph.  No glue!!
 
 
 
John

Post 18
 
I have now completed the planking. Not in Chuck's league by any means - there are a few places where the planks could be tighter but on the whole it looks OK. Its all a learning exercise for me.

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
Time to move on to the treenails now
 

Post 18
 
I have now completed the planking. Not in Chuck's league by any means - there are a few places where the planks could be tighter but on the whole it looks OK. Its all a learning exercise for me.

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
Time to move on to the treenails now
 

Post 23 : Central Planking
 
I have now completed the installation of the Deck furniture and the central planking.
 
I made sure that the various units matched the deck camber by attaching a piece of sandpaper to the deck and moving the item back and forth:

I made sure that he items were correctly placed by using a jig made from thick card:

The planking around these items took some time but seems to be OK now:
 


 

Post 22:  Margin Planks
 
I have been away from the workshop for a bit but the caprails and margin planks are now complete.  The margin planks were difficult until I established a technique for fabricating these.  several attempts ended up in the bin.  They are not in Chuck's league but are as good as I could get them.
 

John

Post 21
 
False Deck and Caprails
 
It took me a couple of goes to get a reasonable fit for the false deck
 

 
Then the bulwarks were planked and painted
 

 
And finally the caprails added in three pieces
 


 
I am not sure why the stern here looks so dirty.  This must be something to do with the lighting I used because it is quite clean in fact.
 
John

Post 20
 
Fancy Molding
 
I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
 


 


 

I found the production of these moldings quite challenging. Because I have only a limited supply of boxwood I made some initial tests with yellow cedar. However, this  gave very indistinct results and it was only when I used boxwood that I could obtain a satisfactory profile.  I also stuck the strip to my bench with double sided tape to stop it moving. I found that several light strokes were best until the profile was established and then I could be more aggressive.