Keith Simmons

Finally have the Ketch to the final detail stage.  Stairs sails and deck furniture etc....
 
 
   Thanks for looking in,   Keith

I am a big fan of using Maple as decking , with the large scale of my models I can get away with the grain patterns. I have also used Mahogany, Bubinga and Brazilian cherry. So I agree with Gaetan, ( your taste , your choice )
 
Good luck with whichever decking you decide on,
 
                                                                                Keith

I am a big fan of using Maple as decking , with the large scale of my models I can get away with the grain patterns. I have also used Mahogany, Bubinga and Brazilian cherry. So I agree with Gaetan, ( your taste , your choice )
 
Good luck with whichever decking you decide on,
 
                                                                                Keith

Some of the kits have tanganyika, which looks nice but is a bit splintery.  I used tanganyika on my Caldercraft Badger.
 
I'm using maple on my Pegasus.  It's a really nice wood to work with.  There are some amber waves in the otherwise light color, but I actually like it.

I am a big fan of using Maple as decking , with the large scale of my models I can get away with the grain patterns. I have also used Mahogany, Bubinga and Brazilian cherry. So I agree with Gaetan, ( your taste , your choice )
 
Good luck with whichever decking you decide on,
 
                                                                                Keith

Hi Keith
 
Amazing.  If truth be told, she's more than a model.  She's a piece of beautiful art.
 
Love it!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Finally have the Ketch to the final detail stage.  Stairs sails and deck furniture etc....
 
 
   Thanks for looking in,   Keith

Taffrail- it is a difficult task for me...

I almost fell off my chair when I saw the number of likes that you all have set for my insignificant work! A big thank you to all of you!!!

This morning I could not sleep..

Sometimes the work was brought to a halt, and to do other important things, but the schooner is the number One! Especially now...

Photos in reverse order loaded, alas... Continue photo report:

Many of us have both because both have their purposes and uses.   Both are dangerous.  I do believe though, that practitioners of this hobby are probably a more careful lot since we're under no time constraints and we're trying to produce as perfect an output as possible.  Also, I think most of us wouldn't fire up a power saw if we weren't feeling 100% and focused. 
 
The injuries in the workplace are a different matter entirely due to pressures to produce, to show up for work even if sick, etc.

Part 33 – Sleeping Platforms for Emigrants
 
Dunbrody has a total of 44 sleeping platforms, which provided primitive accommodations for the emigrants.  These platforms were 6 ft square and were designed to each house a family of four, for a total of 176 emigrants in the allotted space.  The platforms were rough-built for each trip, and I imagine they were discarded when the ship reached Canada.
 
The sectional model has enough room for 8 of these platforms, and I decided to use different woods so that they would appear to be different from the permanent parts of the ship.  I used cherry for the frames and beech for the planks that made up the floor of each platform.
 
Building these platforms was a complex task, and I tried several different approaches until I found one that I felt I could be successful with.
 
The side and end pieces are 3 inches thick and 8 inches high.  The vertical beams are 8.25 inches square, and vary in height depending on location.  The side and end pieces of the frame were mortised into the frame’s vertical beams.  The end beams had mortises on two sides, while the rest of the vertical beams had mortises on 3 sides.  I cut these mortises using a 1/16” end mill.
 
                        
 
                        
 
Each sleeping platform needed to be square and aligned with the adjoining platforms.  IThis required the use of jigs that would keep the pieces properly aligned while assembling the platforms.  The jig was simple – two parallel tracks that were the correct size to snugly hold the vertical beams and were the correct distance apart.
 
The following photo shows one of the jigs in use.
 
                        
 
I made 2 of these jigs to allow me to work on one platform when another one was being glued.
 
                        
 
I used these jigs for every mating and gluing process.
 
                        
 
                       
 
                        
 
                        
 
Completing the first platform confirmed the approach using the jigs.
 
                        
 
I installed the horizontal planks in the first platforms I made, but then continued by focusing only on completing the frames.
 
Placing the platforms also required some thought.  Since the interior walls of the hull followed the curve of the hull, a method of aligning the sleeping platforms so that they were in a straight line was needed.  I had developed a CAD drawing of the platforms in order to understand the dimensions required, and I used this drawing as a way to line up the platforms.  Once the drawing was in the correct alignment crepe draftsman’s tape was used to mark the boundaries of the platforms.
 
                        
 
The tape was left in place throughout the construction.
 
                        
 
Each vertical beam needed to be checked against the height of the nearest main deck beam, and the height of the vertical beam adjusted.
 
 
                      
 
The main deck beams were frequently put in place to check the layout of the sleeping platforms as they were built.
 
                        
 
A majority of the sleeping platform vertical beams were either under or adjacent to a main deck beam and were adjusted accordingly.  A few vertical beams are near but not touching a deck beam.  In these cases a chock will be used to attach the vertical beam to a deck beam.
 
                        
 
The first platforms that were completed were the four aftmost platforms.
 
                     
 
I then worked on the forward platforms, and when three were completed the final platform was created by joining the fore and aft sets.
 
                        
 
When this was set, I installed the horizontal planks in all of the platforms, and then applied a finish to the sleeping platforms.  The following photo shows the completed sleeping platforms.
 
                        
 
There is still some minor adjustment needed for the placement of the platforms.  The following photos show the platforms temporarily installed.
 
                        
 
                       
 
                        
 
From my perspective, completing the sleeping platforms is a major milestone.  These platforms are probably the one thing that influenced my decision to build the Dunbrody.  It’s hard to imagine sick and starving people living in these conditions during a transatlantic voyage.
 
Thanks everyone for following this build, and for all of your comments, encouragement, and ‘likes’.

Part 32 – Main Deck Beams and Hanging Knees
 
The Accommodation Deck still has a lot of details to be added: Sleeping Platforms, Bucket Lavatories, Tables and Benches, Companionways (ladders) to the hold, and safety railings around the companionways.  In addition to the Accommodation Deck details, the main deck beams and associated hanging knees and lodging knees have to be added.
 
This mix of work to be done leads to the question of what to install first:  If the Accommodation Deck details are constructed first, there will be very little room to work on the hanging knees.  If the main deck beams and hanging knees are constructed first, then it will be very difficult to install the Accommodation Deck details without risk of damaging knees or beams, or both.
 
In a discussion with Brian (GuntherMT), he suggested that an alternative would be to install the hanging knees without permanently installing the beams, then work on the Accommodation Deck details, and then install the beams when all is completed.  This made sense to me, so it’s the approach I’ll be using for fitting out all of the Accommodation Deck details. (Thanks, Brian!)
 
The Main Deck Beams have a slight camber on top but are flat on the bottom.  To construct the beams, lumber was milled to be slightly thicker than the moulded dimension of the crown of the deck.  I then glued a CAD-produced profile of the deck beam on the front and back of the billet I had produced. The camber for the top of the beams was then shaped by sanding the billet on the disk sander.
 
                          
 
Since the drawn profile of the deck beam also included a vertical line indicating where the crown of the deck is, this line was used to draw a centerline across the billet.  When the beams are parted off, each beam will then have its own centerline already drawn.
 
                        
 
The required number of main beams and second beams were parted off, leaving the width of each beam slightly larger than needed.  The beams were then run through the thickness sander until they were the required thickness.
 
                        
 
Some of the beams will actually be partial beams – for example at the sides of the main hatch.  These beams were cut as full length beams until they are used, and then the correct part of the beam will be used for the partial beam so that the correct camber will be maintained.
 
The beams were then dry-fit in place and marked to indicate which frame position the beam was for, and which side was port vs starboard.
 
                        
 
Making the hanging knees followed the same process previously described for the hanging knees of the Accommodation Deck Beams.  The appropriate Main Deck Beam was temporarily pinned in place to allow fitting of the hanging knees for that beam.
 
                        
 
The 10 pairs of hanging knees are now installed, and the rest of the Accommodation Deck details can now be worked on.  That will be the subject of the next few posts.
 
                      
 
 
 

Part 31 – Accommodation Deck Planking
 
Before starting the planking of the Accommodation Deck, the companionways needed to be framed out.  I decided to use timbers that were the same thickness as the planking would be, to avoid any additional changes in the surface of the deck.  I didn’t take any photos of this work, so the following photo includes some deck planking that was already under way.
 
                        
 
Deck Planking is pretty straightforward.  The maximum length of the planks that I allowed was 15 feet, but most planks did not reach that long since they terminated at the midpoint of a deck beam.  I measured and pre-drilled each plank before installation, so that the holes for the eventual treenails would be properly lined up.
 
           
 
The holes that I drilled allowed me to use a .0260 pin to secure the planks. 
 
                        
 
I used other methods of securing the planks in place, depending on circumstances. 
 
I used small wedges
 
                        
 
I often used spring clamps when they could reach the plank properly.
 
                        
 
I also used weights when needed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
Once all the planks had been installed I then needed to drill the holes for treenails.  The original holes were drilled with a #74 drill.  I used a #70 to enlarge the holes for the treenails.  In reality, the deck planks are not treenailed but instead are bolted or nailed and then a plug is inserted in the plank to blend with the wood of the plank, as in the following photo of Dunbrody’s Accommodation Deck.
 
                        
 
And yes, I think I need to make the mast coat with wedges – even on the Accommodation Deck.  In any event, I experimented  with a few methods of making the appearance of plugs, but wasn't happy with the results so I used treenails.  So I spent some time re-drilling all of the planks once they were in place.
 
                        
 
I dipped the treenail in diluted glue and inserted it in the pre-drilled hole.
 
                        
 
Then clipped the treenail
 
                        
 
And finally, washed off the glue residue.
 
                        
 
I didn’t plank the entire deck, since I want to show some of the framing.  I may decide to add a few more planks as work progresses and the need arises, so I haven’t applied any finish to the deck at this point.
 
                        
 
                        
 
I’ll probably work at several things next:  the temporary living arrangements for the emigrants, the beams for the main deck, and I’ll attempt a mast coat with wedges.  So there’s some fun items ahead.
 
Thanks again everyone.
 
 

Hi folks
 
Thanks for all of your comments and Likes!
 
Today, I had a day-off work, so, I set about making Majellan's port and starboard navigation lights.  I also added a bit more detail to the ship's tender in a bid to make it look a bit more convincing.
 
Lastly, I repainted the jet skis.
 
I hope you all enjoy the photos!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick
 
 

yep!  no doubt about it.........she's a looker!  simply awesome Patrick!

I'm with John.   Just fantastic, Patrick.

HI everyone
 
Ok.  I'm guilty as charged.  I'm just having too much fun taking photos of Majellan.  I may have gone a bit overboard by taking the following 11 photos, but I reckon she's one hell of a photogenic "looker".  So, please bear with me.  Of particular interest are the ship's tender and one of the jet ski's which have been casually located on the aft garage deck, just waiting to be launched.  
 
However .........these close-ups keep highlighting all the mistakes and 'still to be done jobs'.  Don't worry.  I'll get around to them, soon.  One of the first will be to properly install the railings to ensure that they're all straight and level....
 
I hope you enjoy the photos, folks.
 
Have a great week, everyone!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick
 
 
 

Hi everyone
 
Thanks for all of your comments and Likes!
 
Just a quick update - Last night I added the four life rafts (two on each side) that hang off the sides of the Sun Deck.  The close-up photos show that they still require some 'tidying up', but, that can be done later.
 
Have a great weekend, folks!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick
 
 

Hi Carl
 
Thanks for your compliments. I thought the same thing when I saw your ship, as well as Igor's and Piet's teeny tiny marvels and all of the other miniatures on MSW. But, at the end of the day, it's all about trying and pushing our respective limits to see what can be done.
 
Have a great week!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

(Image via Model-Expo, from whom I bought the kit).
 
This kit is meant to represent one of many ships built in the early nineteenth century for the US Revenue Marine (fore-runner of today’s Coast Guard). However, no “Ranger” was ever built for that service during this time period, so the model only approximates a real prototype. The closest real vessels, according to my research, seem to be the two Alabama-class topsail schooners built in 1819 (Alabama and Louisiana). This conclusion is based on several factors:
Recommendation of the Coast Guard Modeling website Comparison to plans available from the USCG website Dimensions given by USCG fact sheet for USRC Louisiana My own calculations. The resources above list the Alabama-class cutters as having a 52’ keel and 18’-6” beam, while Wikipedia also lists a length on deck of 56’-10”. The table below shows the kit’s measurements (taken from the plans), the kit’s size at full scale converted to feet, the actual dimensions from the sources above in feet, and the difference between the two scaled back down to kit size, in cm.  
Deck: kit(cm) 28, kit(feet) 62.6, real (feet) 57.0, diffrence (cm) 2.5
Beam: kit(cm) 9, kit(feet) 20.1, real (feet) 18.5, diffrence (cm) 0.7
Keel: kit(cm) 22.5, kit(feet) 50.2, real (feet) 52.0, diffrence (cm) -0.8
     
The kit does not perfectly match the Alabama-class cutters, most notably in deck length, but it’s closer to those than the other options (the 56’ Surprise class or the 60’ Search class). At this scale, only a true historian of the Revenue Marine will notice that the model is a few centimeters off; as I intend to build it as a fictional ship rather than as Alabama or Louisiana, this will matter even less. The overall hull shape, sail plan, and deck layout seem reasonably similar, and I will probably use the USCG drawing of Louisiana as a guide when the kit plans are uncertain or I prefer the former’s appearance. For example, the USCG drawing shows two swivel-based carronades of different calibers, which I find intriguing, and overall it’s more crisply drawn than the poor-quality photocopy in the kit.

 
 
I could only find a few previous build logs for this kit, which are listed here for future reference (if I’ve missed one, please inform me):
Ranger by matt s.s.: heavy kit-bash of the model into a glorious pirate ship. Ranger by trippwj: unfinished log, not updated since 2014, progress as far as beginning planking; intended to follow plans for the larger Search class vessels. Ranger by Small Stuff: unfinished log, not updated since 2014, many photos missing, progress as far as bulkheads. Ranger by Woodmiester12: unfinished log, not updated since 2015, progress as far as first hull & deck planking. So it looks like I’ll embarking on a fairly new adventure here, the most challenging model I’ve tackled to date, especially with the rather poor instructions in hideous English translation. Some may ask why I’m attempting this somewhat problematic kit when BlueJacket just released what is, by all accounts, a high quality kit of a similar revenue cutter. The answer is quite simple: I purchased this kit before learning of the BlueJacket release. Both I and Mrs Cathead love the look of topsail schooners, and I thought the challenge of working with a foreign kit would be good for developing my skills. Now that I’ve bought it, I’m going to build it.
 
And for those of you wondering why I’m not tackling another steamboat, there is a twofold answer: one, the previous sentence, and two, it’s going to take me significant time to do the research and design necessary for a new scratchbuild. I’d like to do something that doesn’t have plans, like the Missouri River sidewheeler Arabia, and that’s a long-term project. So I’ll work on this revenue cutter in the meantime to keep my hands busy and my skills developing, and work on my steamboat plans in the background.
 
 

Hi Piet,
 
   Where did you get the HUGE clothespin and exacto knife......
 
   Good job
 
   Keith

Thanks, Ken.
 
More work on the railings - now have the entire railing done.
 
After marking and drilling the holes for the nails in both the railing and the ship's sheer. I insert the nails in the holes first, then place a 1/16" x 1/32" tube over each nail, then place a tiny drop of thin CA where the nail protrudes thru the tube. This keeps the tube from slipping off and winding up on the floor as I turn the rail over to align it with the pre-drilled holes.
 

 
Then using a tweezer to align the nails with the hold, and using finger pressure I press them into the holes.  To completely seat them into the deck I use a small hobby hammer (smaller and lighter than a standard tack hammer) to drive the nails all the way into the wood. Then another drop of thin CA to lock them in place.
 
Then finished rails