mojofilter

jcasini - I would think that the 'plywood' would be more stable - less tendency to warp from humidity, temp, etc.  What species of solid stock would you use?
My Sergal kit seems to have nicely cut bulkheads - of course I haven't framed anything up yet so I don't know how they'll fair up.  We shall see.

Thank you Nenad - I will try to post often for you.  Your photos are going to be a great help.
 
HOF - your secret is safe with me!  I plan to do tree nails as I did with America, a sharp pointed HB pencil.  I'll have to remind myself if there are two nails or one at the end of each plank.  Also what the run was; 1,2,1,2, or 1,2,3,1,2,3.
Thanks,
 
- Tim

Thank you Mark and HOF.
 
Where can I get grating to correct scale?  I didn't see it on Syren's site.
I was hoping that blocking in between bulkheads would bring the keel into line.  I've seen here that bringing blocking all the way out, and then fairing the blocking to the bulkheads really helps with planking, so I'll try it.  I didn't on America and some places required a lot of filler to fair her hull.
 
I will look at the Billings stanchions.
I will go with 3mm deck planking instead of 4mm.  I know GaryM plans on 2mm but I don't think I could pull that off.
Cutty Sark has (and always had?) teak deck planking - what do you folks recommend that would look close?
I got a set of plans from the CS museum shop in Greenwich some time ago and I will have them scaled - as soon as I can find them 
I also have the C. Nepean Longridge The Ship and the Model (in two volumes).
And the Basil Lubbock Log of the Cutty Sark book just for fun.
 
There are so many examples on the forum and a treasure trove of knowledge and experience to draw on - plus, she still exists.
 
Thanks, and Merry Christmas to all!!
 
- Tim

Guess this time I'll start at the beginning.  I'll spare the group the open box pictures.  I did inventory everything in there.  It's all there.  The wood strips, plywood etc. look like pretty good quality.  The laser cut parts are nice and clean - although I've learned here not to trust them.  I'll be looking at the member logs of the same kit (Art. 789) for trouble spots.
Like a lot of other kits, the blocks are terrible.  The rope set and deadeyes are not too bad, but I'll replace them all with Syren model Co.'s materials.
Right out of the box the keel is warped - actually just bowed.  I'll probably do inter-bulkhead spacer blocks, so I figure I can straighten it at that step.
As expected the cast parts will need a lot of cleanup, and the stanchions are flat etched brass, so I'll have to replace them:
 

 
This thing is big!!  I have no idea what I'll do with it when it's done, but I figure I have years to worry about that.
 


 
Wish me luck!
 
- Tim

Thank everyone for your kind words.  This will be my final post to this log.
Now I gotta figure out how to move this to "Finished Logs" and maybe post some parting shots to the Gallery.
Hope to see you on my Cutty Sark log.
 
- Tim
 
So - parting shots.
 

A little more progress - Got the drain holes (? insert nautical term here) in the bulwarks, and the lower deadeyes mounted.  Note broken off capstan bar.
 


 
The supplied pot metal tiller bar did not survive cleanup of the flashing - snapped in two.  I fashioned another out of walnut.
 

 
A lot of the spars, booms, gaffs, etc. need to be turned down to tapers, including the bowsprit.
I threw down and bought a little mini lathe from Harbor Freight - the larger of the two Central Machinery lathes.  Works pretty good, although it's been a long time since I've turned anything.
Turned down the bowsprit per the drawing:
 

 
Note that the drawing (second from bottom) calls for the the tip to be turned down to 3mm.  This contradicts other places in the drawing.  The coupling between the end of the bowsprit and the jib boom, which is a straight 3mm along its entire length , shows two different sizes:
 


 
The coupler is part (525).  The bowsprit is (504), and the jib boom is (508).  Clearly the bowsprit and jib boom are different diameters.
 
This is OK because the part (525) was missing from the kit.  I made my own.
If I had known this I would have turned down the end of the bowsprit to 4mm.
 
Anyone building America should beware of this - although I understand Mamoli has gone out of business...
 


 
Next will be all the rest of the cleats, blocks, and everything else on the hull or deck, then a light coat of satin lacquer.
 

 
More later.
 
- Tim

Hello all -
This will be my first posting to the forum.  I started the 'America' several years ago and got the first planking on and  the deck layed down, and put her away.  Around Christmas I pulled her out and started in again.  I got the second planking on and coppered the hull.
 
I used 1" wide self-adheasive copper tape (electronic cable sheilding tape).  I marked the individual plates from the front with a dull Xacto knife, and used a pounce wheel from the back for the rivets.
I did not like the look of the shiney raw copper so I used a patina fluid (Pax I think).  It went further than I wanted.  I was looking for more of a brown penney color.
 
Most of the deck furnature is on.  Deadeyes for the mast shrowds are next.
 
I've updated this first post (2016-07-07) to show coppering of hull before patina was applied
 


 

 

 

 

 




 
I'll get some more picks as I progress.
 
- Tim

Thank everyone for your kind words.  This will be my final post to this log.
Now I gotta figure out how to move this to "Finished Logs" and maybe post some parting shots to the Gallery.
Hope to see you on my Cutty Sark log.
 
- Tim
 
So - parting shots.
 

Thank everyone for your kind words.  This will be my final post to this log.
Now I gotta figure out how to move this to "Finished Logs" and maybe post some parting shots to the Gallery.
Hope to see you on my Cutty Sark log.
 
- Tim
 
So - parting shots.
 

Guess this time I'll start at the beginning.  I'll spare the group the open box pictures.  I did inventory everything in there.  It's all there.  The wood strips, plywood etc. look like pretty good quality.  The laser cut parts are nice and clean - although I've learned here not to trust them.  I'll be looking at the member logs of the same kit (Art. 789) for trouble spots.
Like a lot of other kits, the blocks are terrible.  The rope set and deadeyes are not too bad, but I'll replace them all with Syren model Co.'s materials.
Right out of the box the keel is warped - actually just bowed.  I'll probably do inter-bulkhead spacer blocks, so I figure I can straighten it at that step.
As expected the cast parts will need a lot of cleanup, and the stanchions are flat etched brass, so I'll have to replace them:
 

 
This thing is big!!  I have no idea what I'll do with it when it's done, but I figure I have years to worry about that.
 


 
Wish me luck!
 
- Tim

Thank everyone for your kind words.  This will be my final post to this log.
Now I gotta figure out how to move this to "Finished Logs" and maybe post some parting shots to the Gallery.
Hope to see you on my Cutty Sark log.
 
- Tim
 
So - parting shots.
 

I'll second that plea!  Please don't stop!  I think people just get wrapped up in the moment and forget they're on someone else's log.  I've been guilty of that myself (although not here (I hope )).  I am just starting my CS and looking forward to watching your progress.  Cutty Sark will challenge my rigging skills and I need all the help I can get.
 
- Tim

Guess this time I'll start at the beginning.  I'll spare the group the open box pictures.  I did inventory everything in there.  It's all there.  The wood strips, plywood etc. look like pretty good quality.  The laser cut parts are nice and clean - although I've learned here not to trust them.  I'll be looking at the member logs of the same kit (Art. 789) for trouble spots.
Like a lot of other kits, the blocks are terrible.  The rope set and deadeyes are not too bad, but I'll replace them all with Syren model Co.'s materials.
Right out of the box the keel is warped - actually just bowed.  I'll probably do inter-bulkhead spacer blocks, so I figure I can straighten it at that step.
As expected the cast parts will need a lot of cleanup, and the stanchions are flat etched brass, so I'll have to replace them:
 

 
This thing is big!!  I have no idea what I'll do with it when it's done, but I figure I have years to worry about that.
 


 
Wish me luck!
 
- Tim

FINISHED -  Well, mostly.
Still need a flag.  Decided I could go with anything between 1851 and 1863 (civil war - should be a common model flag).  No idea where to get one.
I'm going to have a brass plaque made for the base.  The glass for the case arrived missing one panel.  Supposed to be here tomorrow.
 
I have learned so much on this build.  As I said at the beginning, this is my first wooden model.
I know that my America leaves a lot to be desired in terms of accuracy, but the experience has been priceless to me.  Hopefully my next build will benefit from all the mistakes I've made here.
The forum is GREAT!!  You folks have been a great source of knowledge.
A personal shout out to Hamilton - awesome craftsman!  Thanks for your guidance and inspiration!  Looking forward to seeing progress on Syren and Bluenose.
 
I'll post pictures once the case is finished.  Until then, here is how she turned out:
 














 
Cutty Sark will begin when I catch my breath.  In the meantime, the Admiral gets her dining room table back.
 
- Tim

Hi Eddie -
 
Like others, I made some temporary 'links' to hold the deadeyes.  I read somewhere here that it's best to leave the shroud lines un-tensioned until close to the end of rigging.  I used paper clips that I straightened and put 90* ends on them, maybe 4mm, to hook through one of the deadeye holes, one through the chainplate deadeye, and the other end through the shroud deadeye, spaced the distance I wanted.  I then terminated the shroud top end.  It was nice to be able to un-hook the shroud and move it out of the way for deck work.  When I was ready, I started the lanyards one at a time, from aft forward, alternating port/starboard.  Definitely not tight, just 'pulled up'.  In the end I pulled a fore stay just a little to pull the shrouds just barely taught.

Hi Eddie -
 
Like others, I made some temporary 'links' to hold the deadeyes.  I read somewhere here that it's best to leave the shroud lines un-tensioned until close to the end of rigging.  I used paper clips that I straightened and put 90* ends on them, maybe 4mm, to hook through one of the deadeye holes, one through the chainplate deadeye, and the other end through the shroud deadeye, spaced the distance I wanted.  I then terminated the shroud top end.  It was nice to be able to un-hook the shroud and move it out of the way for deck work.  When I was ready, I started the lanyards one at a time, from aft forward, alternating port/starboard.  Definitely not tight, just 'pulled up'.  In the end I pulled a fore stay just a little to pull the shrouds just barely taught.

Hi Eddie -
 
Like others, I made some temporary 'links' to hold the deadeyes.  I read somewhere here that it's best to leave the shroud lines un-tensioned until close to the end of rigging.  I used paper clips that I straightened and put 90* ends on them, maybe 4mm, to hook through one of the deadeye holes, one through the chainplate deadeye, and the other end through the shroud deadeye, spaced the distance I wanted.  I then terminated the shroud top end.  It was nice to be able to un-hook the shroud and move it out of the way for deck work.  When I was ready, I started the lanyards one at a time, from aft forward, alternating port/starboard.  Definitely not tight, just 'pulled up'.  In the end I pulled a fore stay just a little to pull the shrouds just barely taught.

Guess this time I'll start at the beginning.  I'll spare the group the open box pictures.  I did inventory everything in there.  It's all there.  The wood strips, plywood etc. look like pretty good quality.  The laser cut parts are nice and clean - although I've learned here not to trust them.  I'll be looking at the member logs of the same kit (Art. 789) for trouble spots.
Like a lot of other kits, the blocks are terrible.  The rope set and deadeyes are not too bad, but I'll replace them all with Syren model Co.'s materials.
Right out of the box the keel is warped - actually just bowed.  I'll probably do inter-bulkhead spacer blocks, so I figure I can straighten it at that step.
As expected the cast parts will need a lot of cleanup, and the stanchions are flat etched brass, so I'll have to replace them:
 

 
This thing is big!!  I have no idea what I'll do with it when it's done, but I figure I have years to worry about that.
 


 
Wish me luck!
 
- Tim

FINISHED -  Well, mostly.
Still need a flag.  Decided I could go with anything between 1851 and 1863 (civil war - should be a common model flag).  No idea where to get one.
I'm going to have a brass plaque made for the base.  The glass for the case arrived missing one panel.  Supposed to be here tomorrow.
 
I have learned so much on this build.  As I said at the beginning, this is my first wooden model.
I know that my America leaves a lot to be desired in terms of accuracy, but the experience has been priceless to me.  Hopefully my next build will benefit from all the mistakes I've made here.
The forum is GREAT!!  You folks have been a great source of knowledge.
A personal shout out to Hamilton - awesome craftsman!  Thanks for your guidance and inspiration!  Looking forward to seeing progress on Syren and Bluenose.
 
I'll post pictures once the case is finished.  Until then, here is how she turned out:
 














 
Cutty Sark will begin when I catch my breath.  In the meantime, the Admiral gets her dining room table back.
 
- Tim

Guess this time I'll start at the beginning.  I'll spare the group the open box pictures.  I did inventory everything in there.  It's all there.  The wood strips, plywood etc. look like pretty good quality.  The laser cut parts are nice and clean - although I've learned here not to trust them.  I'll be looking at the member logs of the same kit (Art. 789) for trouble spots.
Like a lot of other kits, the blocks are terrible.  The rope set and deadeyes are not too bad, but I'll replace them all with Syren model Co.'s materials.
Right out of the box the keel is warped - actually just bowed.  I'll probably do inter-bulkhead spacer blocks, so I figure I can straighten it at that step.
As expected the cast parts will need a lot of cleanup, and the stanchions are flat etched brass, so I'll have to replace them:
 

 
This thing is big!!  I have no idea what I'll do with it when it's done, but I figure I have years to worry about that.
 


 
Wish me luck!
 
- Tim

FINISHED -  Well, mostly.
Still need a flag.  Decided I could go with anything between 1851 and 1863 (civil war - should be a common model flag).  No idea where to get one.
I'm going to have a brass plaque made for the base.  The glass for the case arrived missing one panel.  Supposed to be here tomorrow.
 
I have learned so much on this build.  As I said at the beginning, this is my first wooden model.
I know that my America leaves a lot to be desired in terms of accuracy, but the experience has been priceless to me.  Hopefully my next build will benefit from all the mistakes I've made here.
The forum is GREAT!!  You folks have been a great source of knowledge.
A personal shout out to Hamilton - awesome craftsman!  Thanks for your guidance and inspiration!  Looking forward to seeing progress on Syren and Bluenose.
 
I'll post pictures once the case is finished.  Until then, here is how she turned out:
 














 
Cutty Sark will begin when I catch my breath.  In the meantime, the Admiral gets her dining room table back.
 
- Tim

FINISHED -  Well, mostly.
Still need a flag.  Decided I could go with anything between 1851 and 1863 (civil war - should be a common model flag).  No idea where to get one.
I'm going to have a brass plaque made for the base.  The glass for the case arrived missing one panel.  Supposed to be here tomorrow.
 
I have learned so much on this build.  As I said at the beginning, this is my first wooden model.
I know that my America leaves a lot to be desired in terms of accuracy, but the experience has been priceless to me.  Hopefully my next build will benefit from all the mistakes I've made here.
The forum is GREAT!!  You folks have been a great source of knowledge.
A personal shout out to Hamilton - awesome craftsman!  Thanks for your guidance and inspiration!  Looking forward to seeing progress on Syren and Bluenose.
 
I'll post pictures once the case is finished.  Until then, here is how she turned out:
 














 
Cutty Sark will begin when I catch my breath.  In the meantime, the Admiral gets her dining room table back.
 
- Tim

FINISHED -  Well, mostly.
Still need a flag.  Decided I could go with anything between 1851 and 1863 (civil war - should be a common model flag).  No idea where to get one.
I'm going to have a brass plaque made for the base.  The glass for the case arrived missing one panel.  Supposed to be here tomorrow.
 
I have learned so much on this build.  As I said at the beginning, this is my first wooden model.
I know that my America leaves a lot to be desired in terms of accuracy, but the experience has been priceless to me.  Hopefully my next build will benefit from all the mistakes I've made here.
The forum is GREAT!!  You folks have been a great source of knowledge.
A personal shout out to Hamilton - awesome craftsman!  Thanks for your guidance and inspiration!  Looking forward to seeing progress on Syren and Bluenose.
 
I'll post pictures once the case is finished.  Until then, here is how she turned out:
 














 
Cutty Sark will begin when I catch my breath.  In the meantime, the Admiral gets her dining room table back.
 
- Tim

FINISHED -  Well, mostly.
Still need a flag.  Decided I could go with anything between 1851 and 1863 (civil war - should be a common model flag).  No idea where to get one.
I'm going to have a brass plaque made for the base.  The glass for the case arrived missing one panel.  Supposed to be here tomorrow.
 
I have learned so much on this build.  As I said at the beginning, this is my first wooden model.
I know that my America leaves a lot to be desired in terms of accuracy, but the experience has been priceless to me.  Hopefully my next build will benefit from all the mistakes I've made here.
The forum is GREAT!!  You folks have been a great source of knowledge.
A personal shout out to Hamilton - awesome craftsman!  Thanks for your guidance and inspiration!  Looking forward to seeing progress on Syren and Bluenose.
 
I'll post pictures once the case is finished.  Until then, here is how she turned out:
 














 
Cutty Sark will begin when I catch my breath.  In the meantime, the Admiral gets her dining room table back.
 
- Tim

Jon,  Not an expert on brass but I have done this many times with sterling silver.  I chuck one end (say an 8" piece) in a vice and grab the other end firmly with pliers.  I then pull the wire ~ 1/4".  There's a bit of a touch to it - you can feel it give, then stop!  The metal is work-hardened due to dislocation and directional re-alignment of the crystalline lattice structure of the metal.  The wire is slightly reduced in diameter but not much.  This really works quite well.
 
- Tim