Brucealanevans
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Everything posted by Brucealanevans
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Thanks to John for technique for lettering, which I was worried about. Done in a black text block in Microsoft Word, then cut out and applied with decoupage glue and coated with 2 thin coats. I "glazed" the stern ports with a product from Micro Mark - a white viscous liquid that can be drawn across small windowed areas and dries clear. I ended up doing the 3 starboard and larboard ports the same way, but without the circular frame. -
Fair amount of time to work in the shipyard the last couple of weeks, so I've made further progress on the hull. I did have what can only be described as a disaster trying drill holes to get the angled anchor chain pipes in place. I broke so much of the front end work I actually just cleaned up the shipyard and walked away, not at all sure I would be able to proceed. Had a brainstorm and went back and was able to do an acceptable repair over the next few hours, but I will not be able to actually feed the anchor chain through the chocks. So no anchor chain on deck, and anchors will be in st
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Ah, never mind. Apparently I bought a copy of the first edition which is out of print. The revised edition has more stuff including structural drawings. Ordered one from Mystic Seaport eBay site.
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Gary Are there several versions of this book? The page nuMbers you note for a picture of the mess table aft don't correspond to my paperback copy (mystic Seaport 1973) and in fact that picture doesn't appear anywhere in the book. No sail plan and no elevations. Should I be looking for a different edition?
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I hate to order another copy in the hope that the inserts are in it. If you can send me a copy of the elevation illustration, that would be great. I PM'd you my address, in case you are able to. Have a good holiday. Bruce
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Hmm Got a paperback copy and there are no fold out drawings. Was this a feature of the hardcover version only? There are some available used, but don't want to get another copy of the same thing only.
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Thanks much John - pictures are a great help! Didn't know about the book Gary- I immediately ordered a used copy through Amazon. I realize it probably won't make much difference especially with the beams blocking much of the view and the fact that only a part of the skylight is exposed at all, but I'm inclined to try just for the fun of it. The advantage of the approach is that the view can be artifically "lit" so that it shows up better. We'll see. Certainly I'll have to make certain I'm using brass rods to the proper scale. I agree that the skylight will be a heck of a fiddly project all b
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Help needed! I had a thought regarding the skylight. Rather than painting the area under the skylight black, I thought I might substitute an image of what is actually under the skylight. I would create this in a 3D modeling program (I'm pretty good with this program) and position the virtual "camera" to show an image from the point of view of the skylight, and apply this to the base/deck inside of the skylight. It might not show much but would be fun! I need some information on what exactly is under the skylight (the plans say the compass is located there, but what else and how is it laid
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A bit more time to work the last week than I expected, so I finished laying the deck planking. Still a few raised edges to sand but basically done. I'm not into treenailing, so I simulated on each plank before gluing by drilling small holes and filling them with slightly contrasting wood filler. I'll not be staining the deck - probably just a matt clear finish. Now I'm consulting the plans and will be adding features that affect the hull and the inner bulwarks before beginning on the deck structures.
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When I finish the deck I'm going to add everything that installs on /drills through / or protrudes from the hull before I start on the deck structures. So much work to do. I think, when I get that far, that I'm going to go with furled sails using silkspan.
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Begun the deck. Built the deck structure coamings and base for the skylight and decked around them. Removeable so I can stain them and build the deck structures on them and put them in place later.
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I've had a week with little IRL work and wife off on several travels, so I had more time than usual to work on the Morgan. Here is the current progress. Decided to paint at this stage since I prefer to use airbrush and since I plan to leave the deck unfinished (except for matt varnish). I didn't want to struggle with masking the deck off perfectly at a later stage while painting the interior bulwarks. It takes me a while to work up the courage to do the paint job to a good looking unfinished hull ever since I screwed up my first attempt at staining my New Bedford Whaleboat (MS). After th
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Yep, John, I have my eye on your site. Also, lusting after some of the tools, especially the small Proxxon sander. Will undoubtably be adding to the shipyard at some point soon, as well as a resisitance soldering unit. All set up with a dedicated shipyard including a tool bench in the lower level, so it's easy to work some, then leave things in place when real life work intrudes until another interval of leisure appears. If I had to take everything down between work sessions I'd never make any progress. Some time today, so I'll work on some finer finishing of the hull.
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I don't plan on double planking. I think I'd only do that if I were planning on staining rather than painting. This is the most complicated planking job I've done and I'm reasonably pleased with it. Only a few spots need filler and none are major - mostly small cracks where two planks didn't snuggle up just right for a short distance. I've gotten pretty handy with the proportional dividers and at spiling and tapering planks. A sanding drum on a Dremel in a fixed stand (I use a drill press attachment) works great to rough trim the planks to measurement lines, with sandpaper finishing to fit. Ea
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So I've finally finished the planking and a rough sanding. Some work on filler for cracks, etc. yet to go.
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No, I'm going to paint it so I think I'll just go with the single planking. Speaking of which, here it is with provisional planking bands marked out with artist's tape. Still adjusting, then will mark the lines on the bulkheads and remove the pins and tape.
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Now on to hull planking
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Well, it's been awhile. Had an unfortunate accident in the shipyard (misplaced high velocity elbow) and crunched all the stanchions on one side, along with the rails and planksheer. Put the mess aside for a while until replacement parts and patience returned. I have now repaired the damage and planked the works above the first wale to give everything more rigidity. Now ready to start the hull planking bands. It looks OK - some variation in fit. I'm always hoping the next build will be perfect. Not yet.
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Glyn: I've had it upside down for some bulkhead faring. I also needed to know it would work in that position before building the hull superstructure since otherwise the top of the hull would have to rest directly on the working surface for planking and those structures would't last 2 minutes. In this keel clamp the clamps can turn 90 degrees, so as long as there is space between the bulkheads and the midline structure (keelboard in this case) comes up to or near deck level the model can be securely clamped in the upside down position for planking. I have fastened it to the work surface with
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So I've started on a Charles W Morgan build, although somewhat intimidated by the speed and or quality of the currently documented construction projects for this ship. This model is a stretch for me, given the amount of scratch building involved and the somewhat cryptic instructions of this older MS kit. I got interested after building the New Bedford Whaleboat, and added this kit to my "to do" stack. Having finished Picket Boat #1 to my satisfaction, decided to defer the Phildelphia Gunboat and take on a more complicated project. I'm not retired (yet) and have many professional
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Picket Boat #1 (1)
Brucealanevans commented on Brucealanevans's gallery image in Gallery of COMPLETED Kit-Built Ship Models
Model Shipways kit with a few minor upgrades. Scale is 1/2 inch to one foot. Completed model is about 22 inches long. -
Picket Boat #1 (MS)
Brucealanevans added images to a gallery album in Gallery of COMPLETED Kit-Built Ship Models
Moving along in my self-education, just finished this model. Left the hull unpainted since my goal was improvement in my single-layer planking technique. Now on to something more complicated - Charles W. Morgan -
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Picket Boat #1 (4)
Brucealanevans posted a gallery image in Gallery of COMPLETED Kit-Built Ship Models
From the album: Picket Boat #1 (MS)
The steam engine was fun. It actually turns. I added the (black) reversing lever as per the article series mentioned above. -
Picket Boat #1 (3)
Brucealanevans posted a gallery image in Gallery of COMPLETED Kit-Built Ship Models
From the album: Picket Boat #1 (MS)
I love the boiler detail in this model. -
Picket Boat #1 (2)
Brucealanevans posted a gallery image in Gallery of COMPLETED Kit-Built Ship Models
From the album: Picket Boat #1 (MS)
I enjoyed the level of small detail. Got some ideas from the excellent 4 part article in Ships in Scale - made one of the coal bunkers open, and couldn't resist making a small coal shovel.
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