Jump to content

Brucealanevans

Members
  • Content Count

    301
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Brucealanevans

  1. Thanks.. Your experience has been a great boon. Modelshipways ahould consider adding your site contents as a supplement instruction book!
  2. So I've been working on the shrouds for the lower level masts. Serving those lines was a real patience-practice, and after serving they were stiff and a bit of a pain to work with. For the "full size" deadeyes for the fore and main mast shrouds, I made a couple simple jigs from a piece of scrap wood and four fine metal wire pieces to hold the two deadeyes the correct distance apart while I determined the length of the end without a deadeye attached. This worked pretty well. For the mizzen and its smaller deadeyes, I just eyeballed it with acceptable results. I think next, as per John's advic
  3. I've reached a milestone, with the masts completed. I haven't glued the sections together but all the construction is done and the platforms/crosstrees attached. I did remember to put the parrels on the fore and main topmast before fastening the crosstrees - thanks for the heads up on that John - I would have missed it too! Scratched my head for quite a while about how to do the lookout rings and have them robust enough in the attachment to the very small diameter mast section to survive the coming months of construction. I made rings of copper wire by wrapping around a mandrel and cutting
  4. I'm semi-retired (50% for a few months) and got diverted to other (non-model) projects for a while, while I pondered what to do about the masts. I'm putting furled sails on the Morgan, but the mizzen posed a problem because the jackstay runs along the mast, and I didn't think I'd be able to mount the sail once the mast was in place, to say nothing of the shrouds. At any rate, I've added the sail which necessitated making the gaff boom for the hoops, and (temporarily) hoisting it up. The sail is meant to be retracted but not tightly furled. I'll still work on the sail a bit to get more nat
  5. John, congratulations on a great finish to a spectacular model. Your experience and careful documenting thereof has been of great help to me as I plod along working intermittently on the Morgan. Got diverted finishing up a software project, but will be getting back to work shortly and referencing your build log frequently. Looking forward to your next (? RV friendly) build.
  6. At a bit of a standstill waiting for replacement mast dowels (don't ask how I could mistake rounded for squared from the plans). I realized if I wanted to have furled sails on the model, I'd need to figure out the jibs prior to rigging the forestays. So I started researching on this site and experimenting. Made (cut down) jibs from two thicknesses of silkspan painted with white glue/a bit of ochre paint/water after drawing the seams on one of the inside surfaces of the sandwich. The seams don't show well in the pictures, but they're appropriately understated but visible if you look. If I dec
  7. Back at work intermittenly in the shipyard for a few weeks. Put the chainplates/deadeyes in place and constructed and rigged up the bowsprit and boom to the extent that can be done prior to getting the masts in place for the forestays. It's been a bit of a setback for me. After the Bedford Whaleboat and Picket Boat #1 I've gotten acceptably good at scale woodwork, but given that those models - my first wooden builds - had only minimal rigging, I'm back as a beginner again. So with each bit I do, I'm figuring out the best approach. That leads to rigging four lines, and then looking at the firs
  8. Where did you get the larger draw plate John? I'm back at work in the shipyard now. Going half time at the end of December so will have even more time then. I have the deadeyes/chainplates on, and finished the bowsprit boom last night ready for painting. Next will be rigging it before moving on to the masts. Starting to think about furled sails now - it occurs to me that the mizzen fore/aft sail would be easier to attach to the jackstay on the mast prior to mounting the mast! I'll probably take a diversion to play with my silkspan suppy and faux masts/yards to help decide if I'm goi
  9. I used a very thin stiff steel wire for the skylight rods. Got it at a hobby store catering mostly to powered airplane models. Even so, using the drill press with an x-y table I had to reduce the number of rods due to the slats splitting with the holes any closer together. . If I were to do it again I'd get some harder wood for the slats - the basswood just doesn't cut it.
  10. Well, worked hard on real world work most of the weekend. Found myself with a couple of hours of free time, so I sneaked into the shipyard and added some trywork tool details. I put a oil ladle and a scraps strainer on their respective sides of the tryworks, and added a "station" for the mincing knife work creating the "bible leaves" from strips of blubber and skin which would be pitched into the pot, which was done on a plank over a tub, or so my references told me. I guess I need some small, limited projects to work on from time to time without getting sucked into a big thing like deadeye
  11. Finished the Hull today - a real landmark. Further work will have to wait. Closing the shipyard due to numerous responsibilities which have been piling up. Need to wrap up several projects before retiring, and have to prepare for an take a subspecialty exam in Clinical Informatics in October. Probably will open back up after I take the exam in October, beginning with deadeyes, chainplate, etc. Here are summary pictures of where things are now.
  12. It is worth investing in at least one very good tweezer, that is kept carefully away from potential damaging gunk when a cheap workhorse tweezer (on the left) will to for holding or placing pieces. Watchmaker type tweezers work great; I have two - this (on the right, protective case above) - is one of them. I will say that as an old guy, putting one small thing inside another small thing is sometimes a real challenge. For instance, for the small anchor fastening chain, I had to get a small cross bar (steel wire fine gauge) into and through one link in the smallest guage chain in the kit. Cou
  13. This, my third wood model, was the one in which I vowed no brass would be visible if the piece wasn't supposed to be brass. I used and was satisfied with Blacken-It, but that has become unavailable. Casey's Brass Blackener works, but seems to rub off a bit to easily and I ended up touching up with black paint a lot. These products are what I'm using currently. The cleaner to soak pieces to remove grease and finger prints, then into the appropriate solution to blacken. The pewter blackener works well on brittania metal (I used it for my anchors for example). Both from Blue Jacket. The oth
  14. OK, this was an extravagance that I indulged for my 66th birthday; A Proxxon drill press and a x-y micrometer adjustment table. Usefull for precisely drilling spaced and straight lines of holes. (You have to spend some time with right angles to precisely mount the table onto the press' work surface) Can be used to mill (in 2 dimensions) with milling bits, but that is somewhat hard with the soft and easily split along the grain basswood of the Morgan kit. If I were starting again, I would buy something harder and closer grained for some pieces - Definitely the slats for the skylight - even
  15. I bought a set of dental picks, and the main use has been applying glue. It is easy to get glue just where you want it - along an edge, in a hole, etc. Also immediately useful to remove any excess glue squeezed out and potentially visible. I always have a small square of waxed paper taped to my glass work surface, and on that a large drop of CA will stay useable for hours. (note, no kids in my house ) For wood glue, I put some on a 3 x 5 card - useable for 5-10 minutes only.
  16. For coamings, bases of deck houses, edge trim (like on the shelter top) mitered corners look great. This micro miter box (Micro-Mark again) does a great job creating mitered corners for small pieces of wood. We all (or at least I) are gear crazy and buy more tools than are good for us, but this one is definitely a keeper with a model like the Morgan, which once the bulkheads and keel are assembled, is basically a scratch built kit aside from the metal castings and a few laser cut wood pieces.
  17. Secondly, double-sided tape is your friend. I regularly put a couple of pieces down on the cutting mat to keep things from moving when trimming wood sheets, etc. Also useful for holding wood in alignment when gluing side to edge (constructing deck houses) or end to end (as for coamings). In either case, some heavy right angle irons, together with the visible lines on the cutting mat, keep the vertical alignment in place. These angle irons were from Micro-Mark.
  18. As I finish the hull, I thought I'd pass along some helpful things I learned. No claim of originiality; I picked these up here and there, including some from posts on this site. Firstly regarding work area: a large piece of tempered glass on the work surface is very helpful - keeps things flat, paint and glue can be easily cleaned off with a single edge razor blade, CA glued pieces don't stick well. I use a cutting mat on top of it, offset so I can use the most appropriate surface without a lot of shifting around.
  19. After more than 1 1/2 years at this, I'm approaching being done with the hull. Put on the shelter roof last night. Next is the rail/pump area around the mainmast, and then a few random things like the grinding wheel, some barrels, and a careful review of the plan sheet to make certain all of the deck eyebolts, cleats, etc. are in place. Likely will need to take a break before beginning rigging/masts as real life intrudes again. Oh well, by this time next year I'll be retired or, at the worst, part time; more time to play either way!
  20. Finished the shelter/boat bearer except for the roof. I put some tools in the racks although they'll be hard to see once the roof is on - tried to keep them in scale.
  21. Deck House - Left the door open partially, and put the berth inside (with gingham sheet!) Really can't see it unless you peer in very closely, but was fun. Decided not to plank the roof, since it will be covered by the boat bearing platform. Which is the next job.
  22. Just back from a trip to Mystic to visit the Morgan. Took a ton of pictures. Going to add a few details to the Hurricane House before I move on - Sliding wood shutter for the starboard window into the galley Latches for the Galley forward serving hatch.
×
×
  • Create New...