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Brucealanevans

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Everything posted by Brucealanevans

  1. Thanks al. Working on the 2nd yard now. All blocks and hanging chain attached. This yard wil have a sail set. I bent the sail to the jackstay this morning. I poked holes in the upper seam and reinforced them by poking a pointed probe with some CA on it. Since the holes are below the line embedded in the seam it's strong enough and the mounting went well once I figured out how to rig the running line to the sail and jackstay. Now the foot ropes/stirrups, topsail sheet, and buntlines to attach. This yard wii be mounted today! Pictures coming.
  2. Well I began working on the spars, starting with the lower main yard. Oof - I was afraid I'd really hit the wall on this one. Where you look at the plans and what you've already put together and what you've mounted and say to self "how in the world am I going to be able to do that?" Lessons learned in working slowly past that low point: Look at the plans again and again and again. Note everywhere there is a block attached and do it with the spar in hand so that a nice seized end is possible. I ended up with too many ugly tie in place knots. Look at the plans again and again to make certain every eyebolt is in place while the area is accessible. If it's going to be hard to get to tie a loop of line through it for later. When I was building the mast I saw that the eyebolt for the chain from which the yard hangs was going to be poorly accessible due to the cheeks so I put a loop of line through it and was able to tie the end of the chain to it using that line when the yard was mounted. It would have been better to attach a length of chain to it right away before mounting. For blocks that will be hard to get to - and maybe for all blocks - go ahead and measure and put the final line through them before mounting. You will end up with a nest of lines to manage but the alternative of trying to get the line through the blocks when things are mounted is, at least for me, extremely difficult. I have snapped off and repaired 4 (!) davits while rigging this yard because of this. I'm gradually learning to be very aware of how I withdraw my arms/hands and tweezers from a tight place after rigging something. When mounting blocks to eyes either before or after confounding bits of construction, remember to check carefully whether the block needs to have the "origin" line stropped to it. I had to remove a couple of blocks are re-rig them because I missed this. I've rigged a furled sail for this yard and didn't leave "ears" that were quite long enough. This reduced the visual prettiness of the main sheets. Aside from that a couple of challenges of the model itself: The chain block (attaches to the underside of the yard and passes the upper main yard's sheets from a sheave on the ends of the main lower yard down towards the deck for belaying) in the kit is a simple piece of solid metal. I couldn't do anything with that so I had to fabricate one that would not only pass the chains but allow them to be adjusted. Unfortunately my skill level is not such that I was able to do this in scale so the chain blocks for the main and fore lower yards are too big. Oh well, looks OK to me. The lower mainsail sheet passes through a sheave in the hull outside to inside and ties off to a pin that is nearly inaccessible due to the shelter roof. It goes up to the block at the corner of the sail - on the yard in my furled sail - and back down to an eye on the rail near the sheave. There would be no way for me to adjust and tighten this line at the belaying pin. Using a right angle forceps with tiny remove action jaws I was able to snag a loop onto the underside of the pin and twist it over the top and pull it tight with a tweezer. Then I rigged the line "in reverse" and will adjust and tighten it at the eyebolt which is accessible. None of the lines have been tied off yet. There are so many with partially opposed actions that adjusting them is going to be a bit of a challenge. I just finished the last line - the main yard lifts - this morning and I think I'll let things sit for a day or two before I tied them all off. Overall this one yard has been much more work and anxiety than I had ever anticipated. Hopefully with lessons learned the next one will be easier. I'm going to have one or two upper sails set on the main and fore masts - we'll see how that works. There is a barely accessible eye just under the main top for a block that is part of the lower foremast brace. I'm already concerned about being able to rig that without further destruction. I'm using silkspan painted with dilute yellow woodglue and a bit of ochre paint after drawing the panel seams with a sharp white pencil. I fold the seams around a line (about 3 mm overlap) and glue them with fabric glue while drawing out a small loop at each corner and tying it off. This kit is much more of a challenge than I expected when starting it. I'm learning a lot to apply to my next build if I ever finish this one.
  3. Welcome to the multiple thumbs club. I also snapped a davit I had to glue back together. All back together now. Let's see how much damage I can do when I come to rig the main yards. I have a set of micro reamers from micromark that work well to enlarge the holes in blocks and deadeyes twirling by hand. I bought a second set cause I broke one and they're not quite as good as before (especially the finest one). They must have changed the manufacturer.
  4. I've finished the running rigging for the Mizzen. Thought it was nearly perfect until I snapped the boom lines with a wandering elbow while tying off the final jackspar lift line. The repair is OK, but the nice symmetry and nice tight lines I had prior are, well, not so perfect now. Earlier, I had notice that I forgot to install the cleats on the inside rim of the aft rail that needed to go on before the hurricane house was roofed. I had just stuck them on the top of the rail but every time I looked at the aft view it irritated me as the two cleats pretty much obstructed the view into the hurricane house showing the wheel, the lifesaver, and other details. I finally just cut them off to force myself to figure out a way to glue them to the inside edge of the rail through the small opening. I ended up putting a pin head into the base of two wooden cleats, drilling small holes through the rail from the outside, and after covering the pin with medium CA guiding them into the hole from the inside with an angled tweezer, then turning them 90 degrees before the glue set. Not perfect, but better than before especially once the boom lines were tied off to those cleats. I put in all the lines to handle the spanker, including head and foot uphauls/outhauls and downhauls/inhauls, as well as the brails for gathering the sail into its current configuration. Since I am not setting the gaff sail I simplified the rigging there. Next I'll start on the mainmast yards completing them off the ship. Will have to figure out how and to what level of detail to handle the sail rigging since they all will have furled sails. I may take a bit of a break to put together my HobbyZone shipyard building board for a change of pace and to get ready for the next ship. Current plan when running rigging is complete is to add the cutting stage which will complete the model except for the whaleboats. I'll likely start the next ship then (probably Grenado) and work on the whaleboats on and off at that time. I don't want them to detract from the model so I don't think I want to sit down and make all 7 without something else to work on to keep from rushing the repetitive work involved. Here are a few pictures. -
  5. Homer Me too! Just finished running rigging on my Morgan's mizzenmast. Would go faster and look better if I'd stop snapping things when working elsewhere. Klutz. Thinking ahead to next build which I'll likely start while working on the 7 (!) whaleboats when I finish the standing rigging. To do shelf will unfortunately likely outlive me or my dexterity. I think Granado although also plan Echo cross section to try my hand at a smaller scratch frame project. Confederacy still muttering to me from the shelf. I Just gave away a previously purchased Victory since once I started building my own models I tired of telling people "I didn't build that one". Unfortunately I had already bought a display for the Morgan so now I have a large unoccupied case. That's the biggest argument for the fully masted Granado over the Confederacy. Must stop buying models for a while. The admiral just smiles.
  6. Thanks for all the opinions. Have a table saw for all ripping. Won't be dotting anything more than 3/8. Limited space too. I think the Proxxon 115 will work for me.
  7. More expensive tho, and some of the work I want to do has sharper curves Think I'll go with the Proxxon micro. Thanks
  8. I'm in the US. Went to Lowes today and they only had one scroll saw which was too big. The $500 was absolute top for highest quality. Would prefer to spend much less but needs to be a clear upgrade or I'll get by with the micromark saw as long as it lasts if it will cut the .5 cm holly when I start my Granado build.
  9. Hi all I have read all the posts about scroll saws, band saws, etc. I have a rather specific set of requirements and would like some advice and directions from owners. I will be cutting some pieces for my next build from holly for the bow pieces, and my micromark microliux mini scroll saw isn't up to the job. I also don't like that it doesn't have a vacuum port or blade dust blower. Looking for a replacement that is more capable and higher quality. . I have a Byrnes table saw so no need for ripping or straight cuts. Would like it to have vacuum port but not a deal-breaker. Unlikely to be cutting more than 1/4 or perhaps 3/8 inch woods including boxwood, cherry, holly, and ply. No metal or plastics. Will be doing a cross section in the future so capability to cut frame pieces inside and outside curves essential. I don't have the patience or dexterity to do this work with a coping saw. Modeling work only and space is constrained so don't want or need a "full sized " tool. A footprint similar to the micromark saw would be ideal. Willing to pay for a good tool but realistically $500 tops would prefer less. Is the similar sized and priced Proxxon an upgrade? Other suggestions feom users with similar tasks? Bruce
  10. Bob I believe I'm going to do this ship next. I love the look of the holly below the wales. Can you tell me how much holly you needed for that? How many strips? Did you rip them from 1mm sheets, from 5mm sheets, or buy milled strips. Haven't used custom lumber (or in fact anything but basswood) before. Bruce
  11. Thanks much I find the details draw my eyes - it's what got me going on this hobby to begin with. My wife, who is a (typical) surgeon, says she'd never put up with the fiddly bits. Horses for courses I guess. (She has other strengths!)
  12. I'm going to do the whaleboats after I finish the running rigging. The amount of equipment to include I each isn't clear to me. Mast/sail and oars for sure, but I don't think the line tubs, pointy things , and so on were put into the boats until they were getting ready to launch. Anyone know? Maybe I'll have one partially lowered and fully equipped.
  13. Gone on a family trip for a while, and I always have trouble motivating myself to beaver away on a repetitive job - in this case building the whaleboat stations as I finish off the standing rigging and prepare for the running rigging. I finished the 3 portside stations. I now - but not earlier - appreciate the precision with which the positional interplay of the channels, deadeyes/chainplates, shelter platform supports, and the components of the whaleboat stations need to be carefully worked out very early on. Because of even minor variances, I have had more than a little trouble with the davits and lashing posts and their rigging interfering with the shrouds and deadeyes. Consequently, I have some distortions and/or twisting I'm just going to have to put up with on the finished model. This is one of my big takeaways from this - my first really challenging build. I was a bit cavalier in placing the channels and the chainplate holes in the channels at that point. Well, build and learn. Eyeballing the starboard side, I think the 2 stations there will be less of a problem, especially as I am now forewarned about the clearances I will require. Here are a few photos of the port side stations with the blocks and hooks rigged. I used Syren Co. laser cut black hooks - I like the way they look.
  14. OK, so the whaleboat stations are a lot more work than I was anticipating. I've finished the aft port station, and have the approach figured out, so hopefully the rest will go more quickly. The cut-outs, painting, and crane construction are all done for the other 2 port stations. I've used black laser cut rigging hooks from Syren for the boat hooks. Drilling 2 sets of 3 adjacent holes in the 1/8" ends of the davits to simulate 3 sheaves was fun. The hinges for the cranes were done with 2 eyebolts in the crane edge and 2 right angle steel wire "pintles" in the lashing posts, with more steel wire used to make the rigid supports to hold the cranes perpendicular to the hull. Although he's looking away at the moment the captain is keeping an eye on things!
  15. Minor sidestep to add the foot ropes and netting to the bowsprit. The foot ropes (at least the stirrups) should have been added prior to all the other rigging that gets in the way. I had to use steel wire for the stirrups for ease of mounting thru all the existing rigging. Looks ok except for the size of the "eye". Now work on the davits.
  16. Big day - finished the standing rigging on the Morgan. Not perfect, learned as I went along. Put the furled jibs (decided to skip the fore staysails) on as they fasten by rings to the foremast stays. Three tools illustrated. The scissors is expensive but great: cuts any line no matter how fine, and so close to the knot as your trembling hands can manage. I like the reach it gives too. I've tried a number of scissors including the supposed operative spring scissors - all of them frequently push the line at an angle between the blades, especially with a fine line. I tried a very good nail clipper but it was too hard for me to work in close quarters. The illustrated tweezer is my "go to" - perfect tips allow picking up tiny thread, and the curve is great for tying knots or positioning. The wooden handled spring clamp (meant for resistance soldering - holding work) is great for holding line around a deadeye or bullseye to allow it to be tied off. Once tied I stiffen the doubled line near the deadeye with a bit of CA and seize by hand - quick and easy. Next on to the whaleboat stations, but I think a few days working on other projects I've been ignoring to reach this Morgan threshold the last few weeks.
  17. I'm so taken with this I've acquired the Caldecraft Grenado and the AOTS book and added it to my "to do" shelf. Retired now and finishing the standing rigging on my Morgan and thinking about the next build - Grenado? Confederacy? Gunboat Philadelphia ? Hope I'm around long enough to do them all. (And I have my eye on Chuck's royal barge ) Your build has been an inspiration and challenge to my gradually increasing but "miles to go" abilities. So many boats, so little time and display space. Congrats - she looks great!
  18. Yes, I have those and use them - I have found them heavy enough to sag some lines, and I have to get my fingers right next to the place to be clamped and they require significant force to open. They have a place and I use them alot, but I've found these electrical clips better for holding doubled-back rigging lines taut while tying them off, and easier to place. A matter of preference, obviously. I'm glad to have found them.
  19. 1+ on these. "Electrical test clips"I bought a small collection and they work great! Very light so don't cause the line to sag. Hold very strongly. With the pointy tips great for reaching into complex or hard to reach confined spaces since the actuator is remote. Model shops should sell these! Absolutely the perfect tool for this use. Just what I wanted and needed. Great to have this forum to get thoughtful answers to questions like this.
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