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Everything posted by Brucealanevans

  1. Hurricane House now completed and skylight glued in place. Next, the deck house, vegtable bin, and roof. Pretty pleased, although a few measurements and angles, especially the transom and aft bulwarks, are off.
  2. Well, John, after following your build log site, I'm now concerned - in advance - about successfully seizing the entirety of the shroud stays. I do have the machine, but the task seems daunting. However, I don't expect to be worrying about that for at least a month or two. Will be asking for advice. Your work on the rigging is truly impressive. Hope to see the Morgan in person later this month, camera in hand. Bruce
  3. Added the steering wheel gear and fabricated the aft deck houses. I found it easiest to build the houses from 1/32nd thick sheet section by section, and plank them over with a bit of spacing between planks to get the proper look.
  4. Time for another update. When drilling out the anchor chain pipes to the deck, I came across a nice chain in the proper scale and decided to add the whole anchor chain. Which meant building the anchors. Bluejacket has a nice blackening solution that's branded for pewter but works well on Brittania metal - used that for the anchors; replaced the metal kit crossbar with a fabricated wood one. The tie-down chain is very small - I had quite a time getting a thread through one to the links to fasten them down, and to pass a small metal bar through the opposite end end link to hold the chain at a
  5. I was just going to glue down what I had finished, but ended up doing substantial work on the forward deck to make sure everything fit appropriately. This involved fitting the bowsprit so I could locate the bowsprit bitts and make sure there was clearance for the windlass and associated structures. I decided to go ahead and put in the anchor deck frame and ladders for the same reason. Once that was done I couldn't stop myself, so I planked the anchor deck - which meant I had to finish and paint the bowsprit - , added the bowsprit boom chock and the breasthook. After gluing in the forward comp
  6. Windlass finished, placed but not cemented. After I finish the rest of the hatch covers, companionways, etc. and check that I've drilled holes for all of the eyebolts and so on where I need clearance for the drill, I'm going to put a clear matte coat on the deck and glue all this stuff in place.
  7. Chuck I used short pieces, usually spanning 5 bulwarks, and offset by one Bulwark from the previous line. As suggested in the instructions. Much easier to spile smaller pieces.
  8. Here's the finished tryworks sitting but not cemented to the deck. The chicken coop is a bit clunky, but overall I'm fairly pleased.
  9. Update. Here's the tryworks. I haven't put the side braces and wood sheathing on yet. This took time but was not really hard. Took some time mixing paint to get a good brick color that wasn't too red - the admiral didn't like the color on my test wall of bricks. Almost 500 bricks! I'm relatively pleased, although the eye goes immediately to the "errors". One chimney is a bit wider, and the walls sloped in enough that I had to mount the cauldrons below the top rather than having the room to drop them through the top. However, I like the overall effort as my modeling skills improve (3rd woo
  10. So, here is the skylight in place. I'm relatively pleased with the result, although there's too much overhang of the top window panes - the coaming I put in place was thicker than it should have been so the base part was slightly smaller, and I didn't allow for that when I built the top from the plans. Overall tho, pleased with the result. 2 weeks of intermittent work. Next on to the next most fiddly bit - the tryworks. After a break.
  11. Once all the rods were in, gluing the end slats to the pillars fixes everything in place. After adjusting the position of the other slats, I fixed them in place with a drop of thin Zap at each joint. One more side window, and then the two small end windows to go. All the windows for the top are already done. Looking forward to painting, adding the "glass" and assembly this weekend, perhaps. This thing has been a real challenge to make - everything is so darn small! I hope with some sanding and a good paint job it will look the way I wanted it to.
  12. I put a piece of wood into the window to hold the work while I was adjusting. It had rapidly become clear that otherwise slats or rods would squirrel out and I couldn't finish one until I came up with this. Not necessary on the single panes for the top since those could rest on the table during construction. Then I lined up the slats, being careful to retain the orientation from the drilling in the jig. I decided to use very small diameter steel rod/wire rather than copper, because it was smaller, and wouldn't bend during adjustment. The perfectly straight rods give a better look, in my o
  13. I made a simple jig to hold the five strips in alignment (reinforced with a piece of tape) that I could put into the x-y apparatus on my drill press. This allowed me to be certain the holes in each strip were in alignment and allowed me to drill cleaner, more well spaced holes than I was able to do with a twist drill.
  14. Starting on deck structures, and decided to start with the hardest: the skylight. Exactly as advertised - the toughest modeling I have done in my short wooden ship career. After a couple of days of frustration, I made an executive decision that 9 rods in the top panes and 5 in the side panes simply wasn't happening. The tiny basswood strips split every time. Finally developed a routine, which I'll illustrate with the following pictures. This "micro" cutting frame and saw, with an adjustable stop (Micro Mark) was very useful for, in this case, cutting 8 mm pieces from a 1/32 x 1/16 strip.
  15. The Hull has been declared "done" and mounted on a base. Will begin working on deck structures next. Plan to take my time and have the discipline to toss and start over if I'm not happy with anything. I've been working on this for a year and see no need to rush.
  16. Getting pretty close to starting on all the deck furniture, but every time I look at the plans, I find some detail to add that's easier when the deck is clear. I did put in the 4 freeing ports (on the inside). One is visible on the far left side of the bulwark in the second picture. Haven't decided if I will make them visible on the outside with incised outlines and small hinges, but I suspect I will.
  17. Instead of painting the area black that will be under the skylight, I put in a "picture" from a 3d modeling program. Not much if any will be visible, but it was fun. I'm going to be using very thin rod/wire for the skylight so some of this, at least forward, may show. I'll probably mount a compass in the aft end of the skylight (on top of the virtual beams) as shown in photos of the vessel. Certainly won't show, but I'll know it's there. Put the scupper pipes in as well, just for fun.
  18. Thanks to John for technique for lettering, which I was worried about. Done in a black text block in Microsoft Word, then cut out and applied with decoupage glue and coated with 2 thin coats. I "glazed" the stern ports with a product from Micro Mark - a white viscous liquid that can be drawn across small windowed areas and dries clear. I ended up doing the 3 starboard and larboard ports the same way, but without the circular frame.
  19. Fair amount of time to work in the shipyard the last couple of weeks, so I've made further progress on the hull. I did have what can only be described as a disaster trying drill holes to get the angled anchor chain pipes in place. I broke so much of the front end work I actually just cleaned up the shipyard and walked away, not at all sure I would be able to proceed. Had a brainstorm and went back and was able to do an acceptable repair over the next few hours, but I will not be able to actually feed the anchor chain through the chocks. So no anchor chain on deck, and anchors will be in st
  20. Ah, never mind. Apparently I bought a copy of the first edition which is out of print. The revised edition has more stuff including structural drawings. Ordered one from Mystic Seaport eBay site.
  21. Gary Are there several versions of this book? The page nuMbers you note for a picture of the mess table aft don't correspond to my paperback copy (mystic Seaport 1973) and in fact that picture doesn't appear anywhere in the book. No sail plan and no elevations. Should I be looking for a different edition?
  22. I hate to order another copy in the hope that the inserts are in it. If you can send me a copy of the elevation illustration, that would be great. I PM'd you my address, in case you are able to. Have a good holiday. Bruce
  23. Hmm Got a paperback copy and there are no fold out drawings. Was this a feature of the hardcover version only? There are some available used, but don't want to get another copy of the same thing only.
  24. Thanks much John - pictures are a great help! Didn't know about the book Gary- I immediately ordered a used copy through Amazon. I realize it probably won't make much difference especially with the beams blocking much of the view and the fact that only a part of the skylight is exposed at all, but I'm inclined to try just for the fun of it. The advantage of the approach is that the view can be artifically "lit" so that it shows up better. We'll see. Certainly I'll have to make certain I'm using brass rods to the proper scale. I agree that the skylight will be a heck of a fiddly project all b
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